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Fresh Cut Logs

Started by Kaos, February 03, 2016, 10:02:24 PM

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Kaos

I'm clearing some land and about to dig a pond, so I removed a few oaks and a pine tree. All the logs are a little under 12' in length. The biggest oak log is about 18" diameter.
I would like to use the oak (3" thick boards)  to make a large dining table top and some other interior furniture.
I'm going to contact a local guy with a mill who will come to my site. Should I have the logs cut and immediately take them to a kiln or can I air dry them for a year first?
All the logs in the picture are oak (not really certain what kind of oak) and two pine logs.
This is in south Louisiana.
Thanks


 

4x4American

Air dry them for at least 2 months, you don't want to dry them too fast.
Boy, back in my day..

Magicman

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Kaos.  I'll yield to the drying experts for your answer. 
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

4x4American

It is also helpful to anchorseal the ends of the logs as soon as you can (before they are sawn), or use some sort of exterior latex paint if it's what you got.  This is to help stop the log from drying out too fast through the exposed ends, which is what causes checking.
Boy, back in my day..

WV Sawmiller

Kaos,

   Just a heads up - if my calculations and estimates are right, assuming you are talking about a red oak and even only cutting your boards as approximately 3"X10"X12' they are each going to weigh around 150 lbs right off the mill.

   Hope you have some stout helpers and/or good MHE to be moving them around. Good luck on your project and welcome to the FF.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

Kaos

Quote from: 4x4American on February 03, 2016, 10:11:53 PM
Air dry them for at least 2 months, you don't want to dry them too fast.
Thanks for the reply.

Quote from: Magicman on February 03, 2016, 10:12:23 PM
Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Kaos.  I'll yield to the drying experts for your answer. 

Thanks for the reply. I passed thru Brookhaven today, ate at the Dinner Bell down the road in McComb.
Quote from: 4x4American on February 03, 2016, 10:18:48 PM
It is also helpful to anchorseal the ends of the logs as soon as you can (before they are sawn), or use some sort of exterior latex paint if it's what you got.  This is to help stop the log from drying out too fast through the exposed ends, which is what causes checking.

Thanks for the reply. I cut the trees Monday and they got a good washing last night from that front that passed through, so I will do that with in a day or so.

Quote from: WV Sawmiller on February 03, 2016, 10:31:13 PM
Kaos,

   Just a heads up - if my calculations and estimates are right, assuming you are talking about a red oak and even only cutting your boards as approximately 3"X10"X12' they are each going to weigh around 150 lbs right off the mill.

   Hope you have some stout helpers and/or good MHE to be moving them around. Good luck on your project and welcome to the FF.

Thanks for the reply. I was thinking about that, but didn't realize they would be that heavy. Glad you told me.


downsouth

Welcome to the forum Kaos.

sandsawmill14

welcome to the forum koas :)  i would saw them green and dry the lumber but i dont know for sure which is best  maybe wdh or yellowhammer weigh in on this :)
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

beenthere

Welcome to the Forestry Forum.
Pics need to go in your album that you set up in your gallery. Once there, you can paste them in your post.
"Home" page near the bottom you will find a good tutorial, and can also shout out if something hangs up on you. Will gladly help, and look forward to seeing your pics.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

fishfighter

What part of Louisiana you live in? Welcome aboard.

Chuck White

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Kaos!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

Kaos

Quote from: downsouth on February 03, 2016, 11:16:30 PM
Welcome to the forum Kaos.
Thank you!

Quote from: sandsawmill14 on February 03, 2016, 11:27:07 PM
welcome to the forum koas :)  i would saw them green and dry the lumber but i dont know for sure which is best  maybe wdh or yellowhammer weigh in on this :)
Thank you!

Quote from: beenthere on February 04, 2016, 12:12:05 AM
Welcome to the Forestry Forum.
Pics need to go in your album that you set up in your gallery. Once there, you can paste them in your post.
"Home" page near the bottom you will find a good tutorial, and can also shout out if something hangs up on you. Will gladly help, and look forward to seeing your pics.
Thanks for the reply. I tried doing the album thing, for some reason it wouldn't "create" an album. I will try again.

Quote from: fishfighter on February 04, 2016, 04:44:39 AM
What part of Louisiana you live in? Welcome aboard.
Thank you! The property I am working on and clearing for a home is south of Clinton, but I actually live about 30 min closer to Baton Rouge. I changed my profile to indicate where I am (relative to the sawmill forum).

Quote from: Chuck White on February 04, 2016, 06:52:57 AM
Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Kaos!
Thank you!

drobertson

Howdy the Kaos,  I would also agree with those that mentioned saw it fresh,, strip stack them and weight down if possible.. end coating is also a great idea if possible.  I loaded some walnut I sawed up the back in the fall, these were blow downs from a few years ago, so there was some waste due to rot.  But they dried in the shed and will dry some more in his barn,  they felt quite a bit lighter than when I first sawed them, not sure how dry they are but know they are not close ready for use yet,
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

Kaos

Quote from: beenthere on February 04, 2016, 12:12:05 AM
Welcome to the Forestry Forum.
Pics need to go in your album that you set up in your gallery. Once there, you can paste them in your post.
"Home" page near the bottom you will find a good tutorial, and can also shout out if something hangs up on you. Will gladly help, and look forward to seeing your pics.
Thanks for the directions, got it!

Quote from: drobertson on February 04, 2016, 08:49:51 AM
Howdy the Kaos,  I would also agree with those that mentioned saw it fresh,, strip stack them and weight down if possible.. end coating is also a great idea if possible.  I loaded some walnut I sawed up the back in the fall, these were blow downs from a few years ago, so there was some waste due to rot.  But they dried in the shed and will dry some more in his barn,  they felt quite a bit lighter than when I first sawed them, not sure how dry they are but know they are not close ready for use yet,
Thanks for the reply!

beenthere

Good on getting two pics (albeit the same) in your album.
Click your forum name and you will see the button "My Gallery" to open it in another window.
Click the pic you want and it will enlarge. Right below the pic is the instruction to "copy and Paste" in a post.

No need to "quote" everything you are responding to in your replies. ;)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

GAB

You might want to consider quarter sawing some of the nicer logs if you plan on using the lumber to build furniture, as that probably would yield nicer grain patterns and be more stable when drying.
Just a thought/suggestion.
Gerald
W-M LT40HDD34, SLR, JD 420, JD 950w/loader and Woods backhoe, V3507 Fransguard winch, Cordwood Saw, 18' flat bed trailer, and other toys.

Kaos

Quote from: beenthere on February 04, 2016, 12:11:22 PM
Good on getting two pics (albeit the same) in your album.
Click your forum name and you will see the button "My Gallery" to open it in another window.
Click the pic you want and it will enlarge. Right below the pic is the instruction to "copy and Paste" in a post.

No need to "quote" everything you are responding to in your replies. ;)
Thanks for alerting me to the two pics.

Quote from: GAB on February 04, 2016, 01:39:30 PM
You might want to consider quarter sawing some of the nicer logs if you plan on using the lumber to build furniture, as that probably would yield nicer grain patterns and be more stable when drying.
Just a thought/suggestion.
Gerald
I was meaning to ask that question. Thank you for mentioning that.

4x4American

and some furniture makers like rift sawn for legs as it give a straight grain on all four sides
Boy, back in my day..

Kaos

Had to look up "rift sawn", never heard of that. I'm sure that would be more expensive. Looks like it would be hard to get the cut right.

beenthere

Quote from: 4x4American on February 04, 2016, 05:58:15 PM
and some furniture makers like rift sawn for legs as it give a straight grain on all four sides
Well not "straight grain" per se, but the grain has the same simialr appearance on all four faces.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Ianab

Quote from: Kaos on February 04, 2016, 06:14:22 PM
Had to look up "rift sawn", never heard of that. I'm sure that would be more expensive. Looks like it would be hard to get the cut right.

Not really.

If you quarter saw a log, you generally end up with some narrower rift sawn boards anyway, just the way the cutting pattern works out.  As you saw down each 1/4 of the log, the grain drifts away from Q-sawn, becomes rift sawn, and the boards get narrower. You don't have to throw that last board away, just edge it into a narrow 2x whatever it will make, and put it on the "rift sawn table legs" stack.

Now you have the wood for the legs of the Q-sawn oak table you want to build. Wood matches the top because it's from the same tree, and because the rift sawn pattern, the legs have 4 similar faces.

With my mill, sawing a large log you always get some rift sawn boards anyway, no matter what pattern you try and cut. I can maximise the Q-sawn or flat sawn, but you can't get 100% of either.
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

fishfighter

Well, you are just across the river from me. Live just outside of New Roads.

Kaos

Quote from: Ianab on February 04, 2016, 06:50:16 PM
Quote from: Kaos on February 04, 2016, 06:14:22 PM
Had to look up "rift sawn", never heard of that. I'm sure that would be more expensive. Looks like it would be hard to get the cut right.

Not really...

Thanks for the explanation, lernin a lot today :)

Quote from: fishfighter on February 04, 2016, 06:56:19 PM
Well, you are just across the river from me. Live just outside of New Roads.
yeah, with that "new" bridge New Roads area is a lot closer now.

Kaos

Well, had a great time milling the "fresh cut" logs today. It was a perfect day, sunny and mild. Morning started off foggy.
Next step is the kiln. It was fun watching the Wood-Mizer do it's thing. The operator (not me) is an ole pro.
Made a little time lapse video since I already had a camera ready.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dS-sJXOaQA8



 

Peter Drouin

Now, that's how it's done, Good job with the mill and video. ;)
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

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