Newbie Looking for some answers

[hbeane]

I am very intrested in purchasing a sawmil and after hours of research and thinking I am leaning towards the Wood Mizer LT15.  I want to build a house and I still want to have a good working sawmil for buildings, shop, Barn some Day.  I hope I am not choosing A Mill that I will wear out quickly and I will take any advice anyone is willing to give me.  I would like to buid a small log home and use square cut logs I cut myself.   I do not find alot of information online about this and I am wondering if this is beause it is not a good idea.  Also I am not sure of the type of wood.  I live in West Virginia and have about 100 acres and mostly nice straight tall poplar trees.  If building with squared logs I cut on my new Mill would Poplar be an OK choice? Like I said I am new and reaching out for any help I can find.  Thank you in advance for any information you can give.  This site has already give me so much information just setting and reading.

[sandsawmill14]

welcome to the forum

[hbeane]

Thanks so much.  I am excited to have a source of so much knowledge. I have sawmill fever. After hours of reading and watching videos I know I am going to purchase one. Wood mizer is going to be at a show in Charlestown, wv end of this month. I think I am going to be proud owner of a new mill then.  I am just ignorant on what the right process will be for sawing.  Getting the most of my logs.  And again the squared logs on 4 sides I love. Love the look.  My house is going to set in the woods in middle of nothing.  I have my site almost all ready for me.  Cleared the ground and hope to start with foundation in spring.  I just don't want to make a mistakes early in design.  Built a lot of buildings and homes just framing.  Brand new to log home building.  But not afraid to tackle the job.

[Kbeitz]

Pleases check to see if your state law allows the use of ruff cut lumber to be used for building homes.
Here in my state of Pa. structural lumber needs a inspection stamp for living structures.
We can use ruff cut for floors and siding but not framing.

[schakey]

Good morning hbeane and welcome to the FF . I don't think that you will ever wear out the LT15. Where about is your land in Wv? We own 66 acres in Wayne county and plan to live there when I retire,also where and what dates is the show in Charleston? If I am not on the road I would like to attend. Right now I am planning on getting a used LT40H to mill our trees and build. Have a great day

[Magicman]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, hbeane.   8)

[Ohio_Bill]

Welcome to the forum hbeane. I have owned a LT15 and was very happy with it. The ability to add extra track sections at a relatively low cost is a great feature. If you won't be sawing logs bigger than 28 dia IMHO I think it would do a great job for you. If you haven't already, read through Wallee's Milling Thread and you can see some real life LT 15 results.

[Ox]

Welcome to the forum!

We need to remember that the old timers used whatever wood that was readily available.  All the species will work for the major stuff, it's just that certain species will be stronger or last longer.  I researched log homes in the past and it's my understanding that any type of tree can be used how you want to build with.  The secret is to keep your building dry (duh, right?  :D) by making the roof overhang larger than normal and to account for any shrinkage by building your window and door slots over sized.  When I was planning mine, I was going to rip a groove down the middle of each flat surfaced log, top and bottom, and put a wood spline there locking the two logs together from moving, like a giant tongue and groove.  A chalk line and dado blade on a circular saw and going slow will work.  Just an idea for you, maybe.

[grweldon]

Welcome hbeane!

[drobertson]

Howdy and welcome, I'm pretty sure the LT-15 will do the job and then some for years,  doing a youtube search on log cabins will show a ton of ideas,

[Magicman]

You may find this thread interesting:  Log Cabin

[drobertson]

Thanks MM, Not sure how I missed this thread, a good one for sure,,

[WV Sawmiller]

hbeane,

   A big welcome and do update your profile with more info on your location. I'm down in Hinton in Summers County. Love to have you stop by if you're in the area. As mentioned above interested in the Charlestown show (Is it in Charlestown or Charleston) as I had not heard about it.

   I have neighbor who has built several peeled pole cabins he rents (May have sold one or two already) using poplar poles. Look him up at Almost Heaven Estates Near Hinton WV. He went up into Amish country and bought some working wood stoves and such to furnish them. He (Mr. Richmond) is very open to showing them off and if nothing else you may pick up some ideas for your build even though you are planning a squared log building. He built them very cheaply - $5K-6K for 3-4 BR homes with an upstairs using poles off his place and brought in a mill and sawed rough lumber for the interior which was in line with the décor planned. Don't know if he encountered any building code issues or not. he could tell you.

   Good luck and keep in touch.

[dustyhat]

Welcome, cant point you to the right mill, but your choice of poplar would be mine also, most all pioneer log homes were poplar, like said before just keep it dry. my grandparents log home was build in the 1700s according to historians around here, it was build by survivors when they were mapping out the countys in this part of the state and is still standing strong.  but of coarse thats just what they said.   

[beenthere]

Old log homes had continual maintenance and it involved replacing rotted wood. Not many logs survived the long terms as some cabins are claimed, without some log replacements now and then.

Today's log homes that are splined, nailed, re-barred, and screwed together to resist movement are the ones that are very difficult to repair or to replace rotted logs or timbers. Add to that the clever routing of electric wires and cables that have to be worked around to get at any rotted wood.

Replacement is a good thing to keep in mind when building.

Not intended to discourage anyone from building with logs or timbers. They are great homes to live in, and fun to build.

[hbeane]

Thanks so much for all the replys.  You have given me alot to think about.  I will update my profile but for those who asked I live in Pleasants County WV.  Out side of a little 2 stop light town called St. Marys.  About 30 minutes north of Parkersburg.  Glad to hear that you all have had good luck with the LT 15.  I am open to sugggestions though.  I have about $9,000.00 budget.  I really liked the LT15 when I went to the Paul Bunyan show in ohio.  And the show is in Charleston, WV at the civic center I am pretty sure.  Feb 25 - 27  and is called the West Virginia Small Farm Conference.  If you google it you can find some info.  Looks pretty neat.  alot of stuff there looks interesting.  Thanks so much Ox for the thoughts on the spline idea. I had been thinking I would do something similar and glad to hear you agreed. Also the advice on the long overhangs. I have read that this is a must.  Like I said I am open to anyt advice on Mills and also pros and cons of Square log building. Sometimes I wonder if I should just cut out lumber and frame a house and batten board it. Which still will be beautiful. Also keeping in mind I do not have alot of equipment to move big lumber.  I am not afraid of hard work just want to make sure it can be done.  I move all my logs with a 1951 John Deere little M and I love it.  Little tractor but A hoss in the woods pulling me logs.  But as far as forks on something to lift up lumber I dont have.. I could get a freind or uncle to do this for me but I hate relying on anyone to get a job done. Thanks again for all the replys.  First forum I have ever joined and posted thread.  Really enjoying this so far.

[hbeane]

Thanks so much MagicMan for the link to that thread.  It is great, just read the whole thing.  I have searched for something like that on here but had not found that one.  Really appreciate the help..If someone could help me, if I try to look at members profiles I get an error that pretty much says I am not allowed in there.  NOt word for word but close.  Am I doing something wrong?

[thecfarm]

Takes so many post to get there. Jeff likes to protect us members. Some come on here just for their own personal gain. After a while things will open up. You have to prove yourself.  ;D

[plowboyswr]

With a budget of 9000 I would also take a good hard look at the Ez boardwalk 40 also. What I've seen of them they're a good solid mill. Paul Case used one for quite a number of years. Only drawback on them is they are only a manual mill no power feed option.

[dgdrls]

Welcome aboard hbeane.

Take a good look at all your mill options and test drive as many as you can
before you buy, 

Dan

[WV Sawmiller]

hbeane,

    Thx for the add'l info. If I remember correctly sounds like you are over near hwy 2 side of the Ohio River. I worked a project out of Weirton for 2 years and mostly ran the Ohio side (hwy 7) but sometimes ran the WV side if I stopped by WVU to drop off something to our daughter who was in school there at the time.

   I will check more on the farm show and try to make it if situation permits.

   I think you will be happy with the LT 15 although you'd be happier with the hydraulic models but I understand the budget constraints. I have nothing but praise for the folks at WM but in all honesty I hear the same about the other sponsors. Don't know of another industry where so many people have so much praise for their equipment manufacturers.

[hbeane]

Wv sawmiller,

        Yep rt 2 runs through the middle of my little town.  Weirton not far up river at all.  I would love to have a hydroclic mill but just not possible for me . I want a mill  but i also want to build a house.  Just a little one but i know the expense i have comming.  I am conisidering the wide lt15 but just not sure.  As i said earlier i cant move giant logs and most of my trees are not that  big.  Also have looked at the oscar and the ez board walk.  You are so right you find more good than bad on most all companies.  I know when i went to the paul bunyan (i am sure i spelled that wrong) i liked the wood mizer and the people from wood mizer were great too.  Some companies were not willing to start the mill and let me see it run and wood mizer let me run the mill myself.  They were freindly and willing to help me.  And that says alot to me. 

[Ox]

That little Johnny M will have no problem moving some big timber around if you do it like the old timers.  When building your log walls and moving up in height, have two logs that will rest on the top log of the wall, notched to fit and not come off, that act like ramps.  Then you parbuckle the next log up those ramps.  Time consuming, sure, but doable on a small budget with small equipment.  A long cable should work to get you away from the building and not have the weight pulling up on the back of your tractor taking away all your traction.  If you don't have a snatch block pulley to temporarily bolt down to the opposite side wall to get the cable up and over to the log you're trying to parbuckle, a sacrificial chunk of hardwood for a rub block would work ok.  Maybe a little dribble of oil or lard on the part of the cable that will be rubbing would help friction some.  Sounds like a fun project.  Sometimes it's fun to plan out ways to do things with little or non existent equipment.  Then sometimes you just wish you had a big horse to pick up and place logs for you!  Keep us posted, bud.

[Smmudford]

Welcome to the forum. I am also new to the forum and had questions about mills. Although, I do not feel up to the task on commenting on that particular saw, I wish you luck. You came to the right place. A lot of really great people and great information.

[outpost22]

Welcome to the forum. I am also new to the forum and had questions about mills. Although, I do not feel up to the task on commenting on that particular saw, I wish you luck. You came to the right place. A lot of really great people and great information.

Ditto here. I will say that my neighbors Woodmizer is a thing of envy. 

[LaneC]

  Welcome. I am sure you will come to love this site, as there are a lot of good folks who have great knowledge that give freely, and are glad to see you succeed in your sawing journey.

[Magicman]

And a FF Welcome to you too Smmudford.   8)

[Seavee]

Welcome to the forum.

[hbeane]

Ox,
     Thanks for all the information.  I have thought alot about a setup very similar to what you just mentioned.  YOu have some great ideas and yes the little M is alot stronger than she looks.  The process will be time consuming but the entire project will be time consuming.  I dont get in a hurry.  Usually working with just me and my Girlfriend.  And she is alot of help and loves the woods and working on projects with me but we always are looking for ways to make out projects easier on us. That and the fact I have to over think everything I do so that always slows us down but over thinking makes for a good job sometimes I think. Please dont misunderstand I spend alot of time day dreaming of the day I can have a big tractor setting out there to go jump on and "play" a little.  Some day.  You have give me alot to think about.  THanks again for you and everyone else willing to share there knowledge with me and everyone else.

[Chuck White]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Smmudford.

[hbeane]

Glad I am getting replies from other new people on this forum.  Maybe we can learn together and please if you have questions post them cause I am willing to read and learn as much as I can.  I want to let everyone know I am so appreciative for this site and all the information I have already learned from here and new Ideas I have found.  And I have so many questions I am not really sure even where to start.  As I stated before I have alot of tall straight poplars.  THis is what I want to use for my squared logs for my home.  Is there somewhere that will teach me the best parts of the log to cut for this.  Do I want to take it out of the middle of the log? Or does it not matter at all and this is just a silly question? Can my logs go up green or should they dry completely or just a little? Looks like I could put them up green and let dry then Chink. There is alot of information out there that suggests both ways.  Green is OK and Green is not OK???  Going to be Dovetail  by the way. I love the look of the little cabin in the thread that Magicman posted.  Its a great little cabin.  Looking to do a little bigger though.  I am thinking 24 x32 with sleeping loft, maybe a lean too style addition for a "utility/mud room.  That is open for change but not after spring.  Starting foundation in spring.  And that reminds me a foundation question.  I want to build this house on posts.  I am thinking 6x6 or maybe 8x8 posts.  Spacing roughly every 5 - 6 feet.  Maybe over kill maybe not??? I want it strong.  Is the post idea a bad idea? was thinking of getting a 12 x 12 concrete pad( purchase or pour my self??) to put in the bottom of all my holes for a big strong footing for the posts...I am going to quit for now, I could keep going on and on with questions and details of what I want to do.  All I think about is either buying my new mill and pumping out some lumber or using that lumber to build my home.  I CAN'T WAIT FOR SPRING! Thanks again for everyones help and advice.  I hope someday I know what I am doing in sawing or log buildig and I can help someone new like I am. 

[Ox]

Your post and concrete in the bottom of the hole sounds good to me.  Nothing wrong with over-building anything, in my opinion.  Except maybe for aircraft (weight issues!).  If you want square posts, which is basically what your wall logs will be, you need to center the pith (center of the log) when you square up the log.  Centering the pith will keep the post or square log from moving much, if at all, as it cures.  If it were me, I'd mill all your logs first thing, set them off the ground and not touching each other to cure awhile as you do your foundation.  Keep them dry.  This will give you the "quick set cure" good enough to build with when it's time.  I would say to peel the bark to aid in drying, but you're using square logs so this is a moot point.  Just don't forget to cut good sized relief pockets (top and bottom) for your doors and windows for the inevitable settling and shrinking of the logs.  Eventually the building will find its happy medium and all your trimming (if needed) will mostly cease.  Don't forget to cut slots in the ends of the logs for the windowsto move up and down in as the logs settle.  Pretty simple and rugged construction, I was just never able to build my own for several reasons out of my control. 

This is indeed the best place on the internet for people like us'ns.  I've learned a lot here as well!  Best group of minds and people anywhere.

[gshd1]

Im new to the forum myself.  I bought a used lt15 woodmizer about three months ago. Its a 2012 model with a fuel sipping yanmar diesel motor. Im sure theres other good makes and models out there. Just to add my two cents and say that I'm super happy with my mill. The person that i bought it from sold it to me because he ordered a new lt40 . Im glad i found this forum. I have gained a lot of knowledge and enjoy reading the posts.

[thecfarm]

gshd1,glad you are posting now. Should be a WM show coming in April in Chesterville,ME. Hope to see you there.
What are you using the lumber for?

[Magicman]

Congrats on the sawmill and Welcome to the Forestry Forum, gshd1.   8)

[hbeane]

Ox,
      Thanks for the information. Yea it does make the most since to get my lumber cut then work on my foundation.  I am not really sure what you mean when you tell me to cut slots in the ends of the logs for the windows.  Should I cut slots on the very end of the log? and if so what is the reason for this just so I understand.  Also would it be ok to cut my posts let them dry awhile before I cut the dovetails or should I do it immediately.  What size of A post is recomended for the walls?  8"? smaller? Bigger?  I want a comparison to the R factor that would be used in a framed up wall I would insulate.  Thanks again for all the help.  I really do love this site.  I spend hours reading and reading...

[hbeane]

Im new to the forum myself.  I bought a used lt15 woodmizer about three months ago. Its a 2012 model with a fuel sipping yanmar diesel motor. Im sure theres other good makes and models out there. Just to add my two cents and say that I'm super happy with my mill. The person that i bought it from sold it to me because he ordered a new lt40 . Im glad i found this forum. I have gained a lot of knowledge and enjoy reading the posts.

Gshd1 I envy your purchase.  I been holding off buying my lt15 hoping I would come across a great deal on a used one. There is a lt40 not far from me for sale. Guy wants $20,000 for a 92 model. Just can't swing that and seems a little steep but maybe I'm wrong. I am not shopping for one so I have not priced those very much.. Congrats on your mill.  Happy sawing.

[gshd1]

thefarm, right now im milling up some lumber for my son. We will be building a tractor shed in the spring. Yea ill try to make it up there thanks.

[Ox]

Yes, the slots are cut in the ends of the logs for the window to sit in.  They would be vertical slots.  This allows the logs to settle and move around without breaking all your windows.  You need slots in the sides and in the top log over the window.  You need to invest a little money into a good log home construction book - it would answer all your questions and gives you pictures and some good ideas.  The two I have are "The Owner-Built Log House", by B. Allan Mackie and "Complete Guide to Building Log Homes" by Monte Burch.  Between these two you'll be all set.  Maybe your local library has a book share program with other libraries and you don't have to buy these books.

I would wait to cut the dovetails until you're ready to put up the walls.  If you cut them green, you'll likely have to go back and hit all of them again due to different drying and shrinking in each log.

If I remember right, I think a 12" red pine log wall had an R factor of around 20.  Better than I was imagining at the time.  I imagine a quick internet search would get you some verification. 

P.S.  I highly recommend those two books.  They will answer all your questions and give you many options to build your log home.  There's things in there I would have never come up with on my own and the best thing is it's all simple!

[gshd1]

hbeane . . . I have found that buying a used mill is like shopping for a john Deere, They bring close to retail. I buy at auction a lot. But it can run hot and cold. I made a couple attempts to purchase a lt15 before finding this one. Awhile ago i attended an estate auction in PA, There was a lt15 at the sale. The guy had bought it new and just stuck it under the trees and it sat there with on a pallet with the steel banding still on it. It had been there untouched for 15 year,s. When the auctioneer came to that lot most all hands where in the air. Opening bid was $2000. Finale bid was $7000. even money. Not a phony bid. I had talked to the buyer after the sale because i had some of the hardware to his mill that was mistakingly included in one of the lots that i bought. It was a huge sale everything front end loaders to metal and woodworking stuff etc. etc. Everything else in that sale brought pretty much 10 cents on a dollar. Im getting a little long winded here . . . ha. . Another story i bought a 2002 Chevy half ton 4x4 online 5 years ago for $1800. Flew from Boston to Richmond and drove the truck to Canan VA. Bought a Kuhn 5 disc mower at auction. Mower was in like new condition and saved myself $2000. Threw it in the back and headed for home. Last week i bought ticket to Miami/Dade. There was two auctions one in Miami and one in Jacksonville. So i figured i couldn't miss. There was a ton of trucks offered. But anyway i wasted $64 on a ticket. For example at the Jac. auction  2003 stripy white 1500 reg. cab lb 134k miles 4.8 with 4x2 with its share of dents etc. whent for $4750.

[Keith Shirley]

hbean,    I haven't been a member long myself. I live just down the river from you, Near Mt. Alto, between Ripley and Point Pleasant. I have a good friend, Bill Worstell, that lives in St Mary's, you may know of him.  I recently bought a Norwood HD36, and am in the process of building a building over it. You can check my gallery for photos. I need to update them, as I now have the main building framed. I would be happy to show you my mill and let you operate it. It is within you budget, although mine is strictly manual it can be easily updated with hydraulics when affordable. If you would like, just send me a email and I'll give you more info. My email is in my profile.

[hbeane]

Yes, the slots are cut in the ends of the logs for the window to sit in.  They would be vertical slots.  This allows the logs to settle and move around without breaking all your windows.  You need slots in the sides and in the top log over the window.  You need to invest a little money into a good log home construction book - it would answer all your questions and gives you pictures and some good ideas.  The two I have are "The Owner-Built Log House", by B. Allan Mackie and "Complete Guide to Building Log Homes" by Monte Burch.  Between these two you'll be all set.  Maybe your local library has a book share program with other libraries and you don't have to buy these books.

I would wait to cut the dovetails until you're ready to put up the walls.  If you cut them green, you'll likely have to go back and hit all of them again due to different drying and shrinking in each log.

If I remember right, I think a 12" red pine log wall had an R factor of around 20.  Better than I was imagining at the time.  I imagine a quick internet search would get you some verification. 

P.S.  I highly recommend those two books.  They will answer all your questions and give you many options to build your log home.  There's things in there I would have never come up with on my own and the best thing is it's all simple!

.  I will defiantly get your books you recommend. I have 2 and they are ok but not exactly what I was looking for. One is the classic hewn log house by Charles mcraven and it is a nice book and lots of info but it spends a lot of time on the history of the houses and doing all by hand no equipment at all.  It is a great book but just not what I was looking for. The second is "build your own low cost log home by roger hard.  It is a good book to it seems only got it about 3 days ago. So far I like it. And don't misunderstand I think the other book is great. Lots of info and great source of pictures.  Has a really nice gallery section.  Going outside to throw some more brush in for lunch. Seems like a lot left to do as far is getting my site ready for spring.   About 45 degrees here and sunny and loving it..

[hbeane]

hbean,    I haven't been a member long myself. I live just down the river from you, Near Mt. Alto, between Ripley and Point Pleasant. I have a good friend, Bill Worstell, that lives in St Mary's, you may know of him.  I recently bought a Norwood HD36, and am in the process of building a building over it. You can check my gallery for photos. I need to update them, as I now have the main building framed. I would be happy to show you my mill and let you operate it. It is within you budget, although mine is strictly manual it can be easily updated with hydraulics when affordable. If you would like, just send me a email and I'll give you more info. My email is in my profile.

Yes your not far from me at all  i would love to come see your setup  I know bill well  i am not sure if u know where his hunt camp is on mt  carmel ridge but if u do my place is just righton down further from his hunting camp  the old red school house he converted to a hunt camp.  Went to school with his son  small world.  I have looked at that mil and would love to see your setup and learn about another mill.  I have been up your way at point pleasant fishing.  Those old tnt fields  all those little pounds back in there.  There must be dozens and it is a ball nice small mouth back in there.  Also as i am sure you know it is known as the mothmans home    i will email and maybe we can get together