Now we're building a mill...

[Wisconsintimber]

Sorry, I don't have a close up of my toe adjustment, but both the drive and idler are adjustable.  The bolt holes in the pillow blocks are slotted so there is plenty of adjustment there as long you have them mounted straight to begin with.  I built a bracket on the tension side of each pillow block and threaded in an adjustment bolt to push against the end of the pillow block to adjust and help hold...

I don't know if that make any sense or not? :-\

[Wisconsintimber]

The only downside that I see to the design that I used is that it will be time consuming to change the tire/belt on the sheave because the pillow blocks will have to be unbolted to get the belt on and then realigned.  I have yet to change a belt so they seem to last pretty good!

[Ox]

It's too bad a link belt couldn't be used in this application.

[Kbeitz]

It's too bad a link belt couldn't be used in this application.

yea I wish that to.
I have over 3000 feet of that stuff. anywhere from 3/8" to double sided 1" stuff.
But link-belt is not good for moveing power. Even the good stuff that I dont think is sold any
more is not good for high power stuff...



 

[beenthere]

Maybe Ox was not thinking of that link belt that is riveted, but this Fenner design. I use it to remove vibration from regular belts.

http://www.fennerdrives.com/powertwist-plus/

[windyacres207]

Thanks Keibtz.
As far as flex and the saw head goes, as heavy as it may end up (just an excuse to make a power feed....) I'm thinking 3x3x.25" box... is the consensus that that would be thick enough? i think that this and maybe the rails may be the only steel i have to buy

[windyacres207]

Maybe Ox was not thinking of that link belt that is riveted, but this Fenner design. I use it to remove vibration from regular belts.

http://www.fennerdrives.com/powertwist-plus/

yeah... could drop some serious cash on that site....i really like a few of their hub setups...

[Kbeitz]

Maybe Ox was not thinking of that link belt that is riveted, but this Fenner design. I use it to remove vibration from regular belts.

http://www.fennerdrives.com/powertwist-plus/

i have used link-belt for years in the textile world.
PowerTwist belts dont even come close to the quality of the stuff in my picture.
If you slip the belt with PowerTwist  it melts.
But I dont think what I have is being made anymore.

[Ox]

I was only thinking that it was too bad there wasn't a sectional belt with the profile of a v belt for those applications where you have to unbolt a shaft to slip the belt over a pulley.  Power King garden tractors are this way, if you have a model with the hydraulics.  You have to unbolt the engine and pulley/clutch shaft and slide the whole mess forward to change the hydraulic pump belt.  I put a new one on and wired a second new one in place so it doesn't touch anything, just so's I ain't gotta do that again for awhile!

[Hilltop366]

For adjusting my band saw the driven band wheel is adjustable in and out and on the idler band wheel there is the blade tensioner as well as the toe in adjustment against the band blade tension.

With a solid enough beam technically it would be all the adjustment needed and rather easily done.

[Kbeitz]

I was only thinking that it was too bad there wasn't a sectional belt with the profile of a v belt for those applications where you have to unbolt a shaft to slip the belt over a pulley.  Power King garden tractors are this way, if you have a model with the hydraulics.  You have to unbolt the engine and pulley/clutch shaft and slide the whole mess forward to change the hydraulic pump belt.  I put a new one on and wired a second new one in place so it doesn't touch anything, just so's I ain't gotta do that again for awhile!

Yea I got 5 PowerKing tractors and the link belt does work fine for the pump.



 

[windyacres207]

For adjusting my band saw the driven band wheel is adjustable in and out and on the idler band wheel there is the blade tensioner as well as the toe in adjustment against the band blade tension.

With a solid enough beam technically it would be all the adjustment needed and rather easily done.

Do you have a pic of both sides?

[Ox]

Thanks, Kbeitz.  That's good to know.  I gotta stop this thread drift thing, it's a bad habit I seem to have.

[Kbeitz]

Thanks, Kbeitz.  That's good to know.  I gotta stop this thread drift thing, it's a bad habit I seem to have.

Yea I think we all do it... Some like me has the habit more than others.
But it's all about learning. One thing leads to another.
I'll try to keep under control.

[Hilltop366]

For adjusting my band saw the driven band wheel is adjustable in and out and on the idler band wheel there is the blade tensioner as well as the toe in adjustment against the band blade tension.

With a solid enough beam technically it would be all the adjustment needed and rather easily done.

Do you have a pic of both sides?

To be clear I was talking about a wood shop band saw not a sawmill.

Sorry no pictures, you could watch a youtube video called "How-To: Bandsaw Tracking & Coplaner Adjustment" by Grizzly tools that explains it quite well. Also if you haven't looked at Cook's saw online store for parts and ideas it would be worth a look, the also have technical videos that are worth watching.

[PC-Urban-Sawyer]

... I gotta stop this thread drift thing, it's a bad habit I seem to have.

Here at the Forestry Forum, a thread has not really drifted until it turns to FOOD! And even that's not bad...


Herb

[windyacres207]

instead of sourcing from a manufacturer for guides... has anyone here used flange bearings instead of, say the cooks guides?

seems like i could use a bigger diameter for a longer life... an idea

[windyacres207]

also had anyone used linear bearings on their saw head for vertical travel?

[Kbeitz]

also had anyone used linear bearings on their saw head for vertical travel?

I put linear bearing on another saw I made.  They give problems when used outside.

[windyacres207]

What problems arose? Did you use linear rails with slides and an acme to lift? Electric actuator?

[windyacres207]

can i post a youtube link here to show what im thinking? its not my video

[gww]

windy
I have posted you tube vidio links to show what I ment and have never been yelled at because of it.  I would like to see what you are meaning.
gww

[windyacres207]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l7IHI3l_d3g

except with steel, i just wonder about the wear of the bearings into the steel....

one would be able to control the plumbness and squareness of their mill to a pretty high degree

[windyacres207]

I think the big key in being able to do that would be that the head itself took all the force from the wheels and bands, then the carriage is only responsible to lifting the head and moving it down the log, if the stance is wide enough - I'm planning 36" right now, then the torque stress should be distributed to a minimal degree on each bearing....

[Ljohnsaw]

I wouldn't get too hung up on the need for precision bearings.  Your cutting wood (rough cut) that, if you want "perfect", you would run through a thickness planner.  Also, if your tolerances are too tight, a little bit of wood chip/sawdust is going to wreak havoc.  With my simple setup, I was able to cut an 1/8" slices that didn't vary more than 1/32" or so - way better than I was hoping.  Once your blade gets a little dull, hits a knot and start to wander, it won't make a difference.  ;)  That's my 2 cents!