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Blade sharpening tips

Started by dhp3228, January 28, 2016, 08:03:42 PM

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terrifictimbersllc

Attached is a page of blade use specifications from the Woodmizer manual on thin kerf blades.   This may be dated I have it from approx 2009.

It recommends sets ranging from 0.030" to 0.016"  depending on the thickness of the blade, and range of hardness of the wood (soft to medium to hard/frozen has decreasing set recommendation)
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

Kbeitz

Quote from: terrifictimbersllc on February 06, 2016, 10:10:28 AM
Attached is a page of blade use specifications from the Woodmizer manual on thin kerf blades.   This may be dated I have it from approx 2009.

It recommends sets ranging from 0.030" to 0.016"  depending on the thickness of the blade, and range of hardness of the wood (soft to medium to hard/frozen has decreasing set recommendation)

I think every saw mill is different. I found that my mill works best set at .012
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

bearman

well this all makes more sense to me as I think of the old hand saws and my circular blade mill.  thanks for all the responses as everyone's opinions do help guide me and others through things.
the sharpener I received with the mill didn't have the dremel tool so I figured it's better too send them out and wait till I get going on the mill before I start to monkey with my own blades in the future. but all this info will help me.

gmmills

  dhp3228,
        Your sharpener is a very early model. Now that you are aware of the depth knob on the top of the head is not applicable any longer, the next issue to look at is the old cam.  There is a very high probability that the cam you have will not properly match the 10/30 tooth profile. That cam may only produce a somewhat flat gullet no matter how you dress the grinding wheel. If this is the case, call WM and purchase a new cam for the 10/30 profile. Very few of you are aware of the fact that some of the first WM blades had a flat style gullet. Your original cam may be designed for these blades.

         
          The amount of set that is optimal for a blade is directly related to the density and grain texture of wood being sawn. The brand of mill, homemade or factory built, has no relevance to the amount of set that a blade needs. 


           Small hp mills will pull a 4 deg blade without any issues. If I owned a mill with under 20 HP I would use nothing but 4 deg blades.
Custom sawing full-time since 2000. 
WM LT70D62 Remote with Accuset
Sawing since 1995

pineywoods

Yeah, them real old models were set up for 13 deg rake angle and a flat bottom gullet. Worked just fine until bigger power plants started shipping. More power means more sawdust, hence the need for deeper gullets. My sharpener came with the old 13 degree cam. I worked on it a bit with a hand held grinder and came up with a close enough 10 degree profile. I'm working on another cam to use with the rixsaw cbn 10 deg wheel. Different cam plus some other tweaks..
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

pa_of_6

I have found that setting prior to sharpening gives you a better cutting blade.
It allows for the cutting surface of the set tooth to be square with the band instead of leaning out.
(also it is important that the blade is flat...cannot guide a rocking chair...)

Stephen1

Quote from: 4x4American on February 03, 2016, 10:21:38 PM
Their sharpner might not have stops at 4° or 7° just know that before you ask.  Another thing, you need more HP to pull a 4° blade, how much hp do you have?


EDIT: I stand corrected, you don't need more HP to pull a 4° blade.  That is an old wives tale.
I was told by WM Canada this summer when cutting ash that I did not have the horsepower to run 4 degree. I have 24 horse Onan. Maybe Marty Parson can weigh in here. I might have old wives up here in Canada.  ;D I have been  using 10 degree for a few years and was given 9 for the ash I was having problems with. It worked quite nicely, I was quite suprised that with 1 degree difference, that it really worked. :) I now have 9 and 10.
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

4x4American

Best thing I've found is to experiment yourself and see what works for your particular situation
Boy, back in my day..

Ox

Stephen1 - that's pish posh.  I have only 13hp and I've run 4° blades and like them.  Maybe they're talking production speeds or something, but for my and my manual mill with no production numbers to deal with they work nicely.  In fact, I'm seriously considering running 4° exclusively.  I'll experiment more this coming season.  Your Onan will pull a 4° blade with no problems, in my opinion.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

landscraper

My LT35 has 25hp and I run 4deg for all hardwoods, no issues whatsoever.  White/red oak, hickory, locust, maybe a little slower than 10deg in softwood but not 50% or anything dramatic like that. 
Firewood is energy independence on a personal scale.

Ox

Yeah, somebody was telling Stephen1 some fairy tales.  Hopefully he sees this post again and can realize they may not know what they're talking about.  But he did say it was WoodMizer Canada, so what gives?  They're such a good company.  Maybe somebody just had a brain fart that day...
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

4x4American

I originally heard it from a couple different WM reps, it won't do to mention who. I've never ran any mill with an engine smaller than 35hp so I was just going by what I was told from a trusted source.  Search around you can read it in different spots here on the forum too.
Boy, back in my day..

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