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do you really have to dry pine?

Started by PokeBoater, January 24, 2016, 02:35:47 PM

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PokeBoater

Sorry if this has been asked before, but it looks like most people on here are trying to get a high quality timber product.  I have a fair number of 3 to 4' diameter pines that are dying. Not enough to get a logging crew in and don't want the mess. I plan on building a hunting cabin in the near future. What problems would I have if I just cut the trees down, saw them into boards and build the cabin with "green" lumber? I'm in Middle Georgia. I would get a lot of pleasure using my own wood, but don't want to wait a year or so for it to dry.Thanks

Den Socling

I imagine a lot of sticky, bug infested wood if it doesn't go through a kiln.

Jeff

That's a kiln guy talking. If you are sawing framing lumber, build it!
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

sandsawmill14

and if you saw it in the summer sticker it with fans on it and the first you saw will probably be dry before finish the rest of the sawing  that far south 3 or 4 weeks with fans would almost get you dry as lumber shed stuff  ;)    this only works for PINE though :)
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

thecfarm

I do all my building in the same day. Cut the tree down,saw lumber,start building. But this is building in Maine and not GA. All out buildings too,no vapor barrier,sheetrock.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

scsmith42

In the summer time 4/4 SYP will air dry down to 16% MC in about 60 days in your area.  8/4 will take around 120 days, give or take.  Mill it in March and you should be good to go towards the end of the summer.
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

Ianab

I think there are 2 ways you can do this.

Saw it and start building. As long as your leave the structure "open" the wood will while dry nailed in place. You can come back a few months later and finish the inside cladding / insulation etc. Don't enclose green wood behind moisture barriers or impermeable cladding, if it can't dry out, it will rot.

OR, you can saw it, stack it to dry for 2 or 3 months, then start building with "air dried" wood. You need warm weather and good airflow to dry pine quickly, but once you get it down around 15% it's plenty dry enough for construction, and wont rot even if it's enclosed at that moisture level. 

Both a valid methods.
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

Millions of homes have been built using "green" lumber.  Actually, much of that lumber was allowed to sit outside for a while and that air-dried it to 20% MC.  What is the risk of green lumber rather than kiln dried?

1.  Kiln drying or air drying reduces the amount of shrinkage and warp that will occur in place.  However, if you use good nailing and are not real picky about straightness, you will be fine.  Unfortunately, in middle GA (Hi neighbor!) we have southern yellow pine which seems to warp no matter what, and no matter who wins the election.

2.  Any insects or fungi in the wood are killed when the wood is heated over 130 F or so.  There can be a new infestation, but the old ones are gone.  Most SYP insects and fungi like fairly wet wood, so eventually the wood you use will dry and be without active insects or fungi.  The damage they do until they are gone can be an issue.  Some people do not like fungi (mold and mildew are fungi) on their wood as it can cause allergic effects, especially on people who have breathing issues.

3.  By heating the wood to 180° F, or thereabouts, the sap or resin that would be liquid at room temperature is evaporated, so in the final product you will not have resin dripping or exuding.

4.  With green wood, even though it weighs twice (almost ) of what dry wood weighs, nails can be pounded into the wood so easily, especially with SYP.

Even a few days of air drying, or even air drying in lace can be helpful in reducing the moisture to a good level--under 25% MC.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

PokeBoater

I think I'll go to plan "b". Insects, fungus, mold, etc. don't sound too good. And some of the trees are dying from insect damage. Thanks for the reality check.

customsawyer

Where are you located in central Ga.?
I do most of my building with green lumber. Just make sure it don't touch the ground.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

WDH

You will not have an insect issue with SYP in GA.  Once the tree starts dying, the ambrosia beetles hit it and lay eggs.  However, they cannot live in dry wood, so as the wood dries, either nailed up green in place or air drying in a sticker stack, they leave quickly.  The bark beetles that probably killed the trees are long gone too. 

Like Scott says, you will be surprised by how quick pine will dry when using fans.  It loses lots of moisture fast. 

Where in Middle GA are you?

Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Chuck White

I agree with Jeff, saw it out and start building!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

Banjo picker

No bug problem, but it will shrink a bit...especially if used as siding or decking.  Go for it.   Banjo
Never explain, your friends don't need it, and your enemies won't believe you any way.

Sixacresand

I plan to frame out my front porch with green pine.  It being open, will dry with no problem.   I also plan to frame out a room addition.  I do plan to let it set for a few weeks after drying-it-in in before covering walls and ceiling with vapor bariers and sheet rock. 
"Sometimes you can make more hay with less equipment if you just use your head."  Tom, Forestry Forum.  Tenth year with a LT40 Woodmizer,

jaciausa

Does this apply to red pine, white pine, and scotch pine logs or sawn framing lumber. i thought the bugs would be having these for lunch. Any bugs present, in dieing but standing timber will leave when cut and allowed to air dry? I have an offer to saw a very large quanity of scotch, red, white pine and this sounds very good to me. I live in the Iowa. Saw, sticker and good to go?

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

Basically, there is one insect, other than termites, that likes dry pine and this insect does not like wet pine.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

OlJarhead

I air dry all my pine about 8 weeks.  Seems to do very well that way and I use it for framing and interior paneling.

This is in North Central WA and I dry almost all year -- just not in August as it's too dry!
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

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