Just bought a Stihl 044...

[MrTwig]

... and boy, it's a wreck  Total rebuild requiered.
Does anyone here have the service manual for the 044? I can't find it anywhere.
Also, I will need a new cylinder for it, so I was wondering if anyone have experience with the cheap chinese aftermarket cylinder. Are they good enough? I found one big bore for the 10 mm wrist pin, and I thought I might go for that one. It's about 90 bucks. Worth it?

[mad murdock]

Welcome MrTwig.  If you check out forum sponsor Chainsawr on the LH side of the page, Kevin can fix you up. He has good parts at reasonable prices, for a lot of the older stuff.  I haven't used the cheap Chinese stuff, and from what I have seen of other cheap Chinese stuff, you get what you pay for.  It would not be worth the time I invested in taking apart, fixing and reassembling a saw, if I used a P/C that would only last a little while.  I would not do it, but that is just me.

[ohiowoodchuck]

X2 shop around for a used oem cylinder and buy a new oem piston for around 50.00. That's what I've done on my last five. Usually find them cheap with a little aluminum transfer. Clean it up and good to go.

[gspren]

  Speaking as someone that has owned and used an 044 for 20+ years, they are just so darn nice that if you are going to keep it do it right.

[ZeroJunk]

What is wrong with the original cylinder ? Pretty unusual to not be able to reuse them unless something came loose and gouged it out somewhere.
You can get aluminum transfer off with a little patience.

There is not much to be gained by big bores from cookie cutting comparisons although I have built a few.

Consider cleaning up the original jug and stick a Meteor or OEM piston in there if the original jug is not ruined.

[Gearbox]

I just did a 272 with a jug and piston from kevin good quality and free shipping . A 044 is a great saw X 2 what the rest said you won't be disapointed .

[pwheel]

Why do you think that the cylinder has to be replaced? Photos would be helpful.

[Al_Smith]

I've had good luck with Meteor pistons .Keep in mind the cylinder doesn't have to be perfect to run and run well .As long as the plating hasn't worn through to the aluminum it should be good to go .

Just make certain it hasn't blown tramp aluminum into the crankcase and into the bearings .Other than that drown the parts in oil before you reassemble .If it doesn't blow smoke for 5 minutes on the first start up you didn't get enough oil on it .

Set the carb to run rich for a few tank fulls then lean er out and  flog  it like a rented mule  . 8)

[MrTwig]

Thank you all for your replies. I may have been too quick to write off the cylinder. I will at least try to acid-clean it, just in case it is aluminum buildup, and not scratches like I thought. The piston has fused to the rings, and is badly scorn, so that myst be replaced. Also, the skirt is much thinner on the exhaust side, than the intake side.

[Magicman]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, MrTwig. 

[MrTwig]

Thanks 

Have any of you split the crankcase on these saws? I'm debating with myself wether or not to do it. It requires some real expencive tools, but the result will be better since I can put in new bearings and seals. I can even repaint it. This is one of the earlyest of the 044 line, so Ifigure it to be at least 20 years old.

[HolmenTree]

Thanks 

Have any of you split the crankcase on these saws? I'm debating with myself wether or not to do it. It requires some real expencive tools, but the result will be better since I can put in new bearings and seals. I can even repaint it. This is one of the earlyest of the 044 line, so Ifigure it to be at least 20 years old.

Welcome Mr Twig
Lots of information on splitting cases on this site. When putting the halves back together with a new gasket be very careful the gasket stays in place. I've  seen a few 044's with leaks dripping out of the oil tank usually right in front at the gasket seam.

[pwheel]

What Al_Smith said about shredded aluminum ending up in the bottom end. I thought I could rinse it out w/ fuel mix instead of splitting the case and replacing bearings on my ms460 project. Mistake. Aluminum bits flew back up into the combustion chamber and scratched the new piston/cylinder. Saw also started making bearing noise soon after I put it back in use. Disassembled the whole saw this time and installed bearings & seals. Touched up the piston with fine w/d sandpaper and acid cleaned the cylinder. Runs fine now but I think I got lucky.

[ohiowoodchuck]

I made mine out of two pieces of 3/8 plate and a 1/2 bolt. I milled slots in it for the bar studs. Then I tap the other side out with a soft face hammer. Pull the bearings off with a clam shell puller. I then put the bearings in the freezer over night and warm the case halves up. Usually the bearings fall right in. I pull the crank in on the flywheel side with a nut and stack of washers. I then put the pto side on and a few light taps while send it almost shut. I then use the bolts to finish it off. I then tap each side of the crank to set it like stihl says to do, then I oil the bearings real good and install the seals. I learned all this from joe Indi on here. It has worked flawlessly the last five I have done.

[deerslayer]

Congrats on the 044. They are truly a class leading saw. I wouldn't be too concerned about that cylinder and it should clean up fine.
Aftermarket parts may or may not be good. Sorta have to know what you're getting. I use a lot of aftermarket but from limited vendors that I know sell acceptable stuff.
I doubt the crankcase needs to be split unless the bearings evidence wear or you have a gasket leak.
I'd get an aftermarket dual port muffler for it as they're pretty cheap. The big double dogs are nice if you have an application for them and an HD filter if yours didn't already come equipped with one.
Some of these saws don't have much squish so when you install a new piston, may want to check that. Various thickness of gaskets can get it where you want it. (about .020 to .025 would be good.

[deerslayer]

On the thin piston skirt, sure it's the exhaust side? Most wear I've seen is on the intake side. Just wondered.
Also, if you didn't pressure and vacuum test the saw before you disassembled it, (you should have). Make sure you do it after assembly so you don't wind up with another scored piston...

[Al_Smith]

It's not that hard to split a case .Some might say so and egotistical  so called "gold level technowienies " might allude to it .

All it takes is a heat gun with well placed heat on the bearing pockets and a little tap from a plastic hammer .Not like driving a railroad spike now,little tap .

To put it back together you just freeze the crankshaft with bearings and heat the case halves .Simple as falling off a log .

For the life of me I don't see why people try to make it so complicated ,geeze .

[MrTwig]

So, I measured the gasket, and it looks like a 0,5 mm gasket. The only thicknesses I have found is 0,5 and 1 mm, so I suppose 0,5 will be the one to go for.

I measured the skirts, and it definitely is the exhaust side which is worn. I managed to prize the rings loose, but they still stick. Gonna try for an aftermarket piston, possibly Comet. The 10mm wrist pin limits my choices a bit, so I'll just see what I find when the time comes to reassemble it.

I did not do a compression test on the crankcase since I don't have the tools. I bought a regular compression tester for the top end, but that was after I disassembled it. I used it to measure my other saws, and they were all between 145 and 160 psi, so they all seem good. (017, 024AV Super, and a Partner)

I tried to split the crankcase using a heatgun, and a few lovetaps from a rubber mallet, but it wouldn't budge. I even spilled some butane on the bearing and let it evaporate, so as to chill the bearing. No difference. Guess I'll have to buy or make a puller, or just leave it.

[MrTwig]

Here is how I ended up splitting the crankcase on my Stihl 044 :
I already had this pulling tool


Then I turned it sideways, drilled two 8mm holes in it, used some nuts to get the spacing right, and a couple of 8mm bolts, one to fix it to the saw, and one for pulling.


I could have threaded the pulling hole, but it was easier to just put a nut behind it.

Now to sandblast and repaint it. I can't wait! But I will have to. it's -10 C here now :-\

[ZeroJunk]

That is much nicer than mine, which I think came off of a horse drawn plow. I drilled a couple of holes for the studs and welded a nut on it. Works.

[ohiowoodchuck]

Here is mine simple cheap and easy. Plus it works great.

[MrTwig]

Nice. That's how I'd do it if I had a welder, and knew how to weld  :'(
Did you spraypaint it too?

[deerslayer]

so @ohiowoodchuck, does that go on the bar studs and then push on the end of the crankshaft? And if so, why is the screw tapered? Does it fit into the dimple on the crank? Thinking I need to fabricate something like this just in case.

[Logger RK]

Nice digital caliper. I have 3 just like it. I kept  blaming my Son's 4 taking them so i would buy another. Last winter during a, to cold to work day,I was trying out my new inspection camera & looked behind my refrigerator & what do u know but there are the other two. I think during the same cold spell I changed my crank bearings & seal on my 044. I had the paint peeling inside. Scraped off the loose stuff & put it together and still runs good.👍😎

[ohiowoodchuck]

so @ohiowoodchuck, does that go on the bar studs and then push on the end of the crankshaft? And if so, why is the screw tapered? Does it fit into the dimple on the crank? Thinking I need to fabricate something like this just in case.

You are correct. I used a 1/2-13 bolt. It goes right down on the end of the crank. If you need measurements let me know.

[nuke1]

 i'll just mention a couple things here that I ran into make sure you clean it up extremely well there can be hidden screw that you didn't think was in there

[Al_Smith]

Couple things .If you didn't miss a case screw you probably didn't get the bearing pockets warm enough.

You can use something like 3M "scotch brite" pads and kerosene to polish out the aluminum transfer .For that matter "easy off" oven cleaner will  soften it up if it doesn't want to come off .Be sure to rinse all of it off with water after you are through . The stuff gives off nasty fumes so be sure you have plenty of ventelation < can't spell this morning) if you go that route .

[MrTwig]

So I found a new top end from farmertec, paid $20, and this is how the intake port looks like. I don't dare use it, since the molding is so flawed on the right side, it reaches the ring pin. Lets see if I get a refund from machinesdoctor.

[MrTwig]

I wonder what would happen if I simply put the piston in the wrong way round. I checked, and the ring pins wouldn't hit any ports then.