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Hydraulic filters

Started by XMartin, August 19, 2017, 04:55:33 PM

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XMartin

I am working on a Franklin 132 forwarder. I removed the engine for renewal. As I started to re-install it I noticed the hoses to and from the pumps needed replacing. I bought them and realized I would have to drain the tank before I installed the ones going to the pumps.  About a half a gallon of water came out in the first five gallons, and an awful looking sludge came out with the last.  Then I realized I needed to remove the tank and clean that out too.  Inside the tank were two filters on the lines going to the pump, one going to each of the pumps.  (These are the suction lines). One is a paper filter about ten inches long, the other a steel mesh about half as long, they both have 1 1/2 taped female pipe threads on them. The tank is almost impossible to access without removing the radiator and the iron surrounding it. Which filter type would last the longest before failing, (not that you could tell when it or they would).
As always, I would appreciate and advice anyone would care to share with me.

Corley5

I did away with the filters in the tank on my 132 and plumbed spin on filters into the return lines along with ball valves.
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

XMartin

Thanks, that makes sense Corely, I guess I will install the engine and see where I can mount them once it is in.

On another matter, do you know where I could find the rubber pancake-like engine mounts?

Ford_man

Granger has rubber foot pads for setting machinery (like air comp)on they might work for you.

Stephen Alford

 Not sure if it would work for you but I have used hockey pucks . drill easy and tough.
logon

mike_belben

Freightliner radiator isolators or bushings work perfect, are commonly available and pretty cheap.  There are bushings and isolators.. One is round one is a block with studs.  Use google images tab.

https://www.4statetrucks.com/engine-parts/semi-truck-radiator-mount-bushings-freightliner_33895.asp?gclid=CjwKCAjw5uTMBRAYEiwA5HxQNm-NR5c2a12QtnLJk_-ypENLsSUvRObrVJgs1yN2sCu9GpfDwE1xWxoCDcwQAvD_BwE





If your hydraulic tank vent is such that it can be routed to a filter such as a crankcase breather or something, i highly recommend a pressure washing and deleting of the suction screens.  Clogged screens are the number one cause of pump death by cavitation.  Youd need to install a high quality return filtration on all return lines, vent filtration, and make a practice of pumping your new oil in through a filter as well.   Most anyone who does this uses a gas or electric filter cart to periodically suction out, filter and reinstall the same oil with makeup oil added via the cart tank.  Its easiest if you install a bottom bung, valve and coupling to the bottom and top of your hydraulic tank.   

Ive seen it most in CNC equipment, but its running 3 shifts for 15 years.  And the oils are incredibly expensive.   


Praise The Lord

Corley5

  I got spin on filter bases and filters from Surplus Center.  The filter #s cross to Wix so they're available from Car Quest/NAPA etc.  Does your reservoir still have the puke tank with the vent?  I took mine off and screwed a vent with a mushroom cap in the top of the top tank.  I did that when I had the radiator recored. 
  A filter cart in the woods?  Never seen one outside a mill or factory.  Used logging equipment hydraulic oil gets burned in a shop furnace or used as harvester bar oil around here.  Not filtered and recycled :)
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

mike_belben

We had one on a service truck at a JY i worked with.
Praise The Lord

coxy

 for rubber mounts I use rubber belting from a conveyer from a gravel  pit or the rubber belting they sell for the side pto on the older tractors they sell at TSC

XMartin

This machine has two pumps.  One pump is for the loader, the other is for the blade and steering.  Basically, you don't utilize both pumps at the same time, but they are both still pumping.  I don't have the specs for either pump.  Would anyone hazard a guess as to how many GPMs I would need for a return filter capacity for the combined flow?

Corley5

  I plumbed one filter into the bottom of the tank where one pump returns with a ball valve on both sides of the filter to isolate it.  The other pump returns into the top of the tank on the opposite side.  I plumbed a filter into it with a pipe nipple and a 90.  No valves because it goes into the top of the tank.
  I think this is what I put on my 132 :-\  It's been over a year.  I'll try to get a couple pictures today.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Filters/Filters/3-4-NPT-25-GPM-ZINGA-RETURN-LINE-FILTER-25-PSI-BYPASS-9-059.axd
  This is the whole selection
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Filters/?page_no=1
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

mike_belben

Martin, what size are the hoses?  Do they tee back together before entering the tank or have separate ports?
Praise The Lord

XMartin

Mike, 1" hoses, they do tee at the tank

Corley5

The blade and steering return line go into a block before returning to the bottom of the tank on mine.  They're 3/4" lines.  I put the filter and valve between the tank and the block.  The loader returns to the top of the tank on the opposite side with 3/4 line too.  Both holes in the tank are bushed down to 3/4" from 1".  I took pics and will upload later.
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

Corley5

Mine still has the transmission driven pump for the loader and the accessory drive driven pump for the blade and loader.  When yours was changed did they plumb the returns together?
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

mike_belben

Praise The Lord

XMartin


XMartin

You guys on this forum are really helpful, I appreciate all your input. 
As much as I want to get this thing together, I guess doing things right the first time is always the best.  That being said, I am going to eliminate the suction filters, and plumb in a return filter, and valves in the return stream. The suction filters were jammed tight with what appeared to be some kind of fabric, and gobs of blue RTV. the cover of the tank had been sealed with blue RTV, instead of a gasket.  It frightens me to think how much damage was done to the pumps. I was surprised to see how economical the filters are.
Thanks again to all contributing to this forum.

Oliver05262

   You might want to consider putting a screen cartridge in your pump suction line(s) somehow, just to prevent the type of stuff you found in the tank from passing through the pump, lines, valves, etc. before finally being caught in your return line filters. Gritty stuff does the close clearances in the pump no good at all, and a bit of silicone sealer can clog a small orifice and never will dissolve.
   There ought to be a way to put a screen in the circuit that you could remove and clean on a regular basis, hopefully without having to drain all the oil from the system.
Oliver Durand
"You can't do wrong by doing good"
It's OK to cry.
I never did say goodby to my invisible friend.
"I woke up still not dead again today" Willy
Don't use force-get a bigger hammer.

mike_belben

Deleting suction screens isnt for everyone.  Youve really got to be starting with a clean system and keeping it that way.  Tank breathers, dirty pail lids, worn cylinder seals will all let dirt in. 

Only you know if youre meticulous and dilligent enough to go without them. 
Praise The Lord

XMartin

The existing screens are metal mesh. I cleaned them as well as I could, no reason I couldn't re-install them.  I have the tank on sawhorses in my shop, no reason I cannot clean that as well.  Once cleaned with return filters in place they should not be exposed to enough dirt to require them to need frequent cleaning.

mike_belben

Alright well just be sure to get good filtration on that breather.. Overnight while cooling, It sucks in like a vacuum cleaner after a hard day of summer use. 

A washable crankcase filter with an oiled white sock over it works pretty good.  The sock changing color is a good indicator of needing a wash.
Praise The Lord

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