iDRY Vacuum Kilns

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first cabinets

Started by hackberry jake, January 11, 2016, 09:31:23 PM

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WDH

I have a cabinet door making bit set from MLCS like that.  Has worked great for me.  No issues for me with just gluing them up. 
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Andy White

HJ.
That is just exactly what you need. Gives enough face grain surface to make a strong joint for sure.      AndyCan't wait to see the progress when the dust starts flying!!
Learning by day, aching by night, but loving every minute of it!! Running HM126 Woodland Mill, Stihl MS290, Homemade Log Arch, JD 5103/FEL and complete woodshop of American Delta tools.

Larry

My door profile is similar to the one on the lower left.  I've made several hundred doors with no failures to date.  When I built the cabinet doors for the house I had the parts for about 10 doors laid out.  Got them all glued up and noticed one stile that didn't meet the rail properly.  Since it had only been maybe 10-15 minutes I figured I could lever off the stile and re-glue.  I couldn't believe it, the glue joint held and it split the stile.

Quote from: hackberry jake on January 18, 2016, 01:54:32 PM
He asked if he could do door lip cabinets so he wouldn't have to buy pulls and also for a cleaner look. Does that mean that every double door cabinet needs a face frame member in the middle between the doors? To get your finger in to open it? Or does the door lip go on the bottom side of the door too? I was under the impression it just went on the side opposite the hinges.

When I built the shop cabinets Kathy wasn't sure if she wanted a center face frame member between each door or not.  To help her decide all the uppers have a vertical between the doors.  All of the lower double doors meet with no vertical member.  She decided she liked the look of a vertical between each door the best...I do to.  It really looks nice when there are three doors in a section.

Built the house cabinets with a vertical member between each door upper and lowers.  As the head plumber I hated that vertical member when I did the sink plumbing.

I've put the finger pulls on either the bottom or sides on the uppers.  Top or sides on the lowers.  While attractive, they hold dirt and are harder to clean than handles.  I've been told some folks with arthritis don't like them.

Kitchen cabinets really take a lot of time, at least for me to design.  Throw in pullouts, corner cabinets, and a pantry just to add to the work.

Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

Don_Papenburg

Mortise and tenon frames are about as strong as it gets  then bridal joints .  I have done cope and stick framing with dowels but that takes more time I have tried putting in the dowels from the outside of the door edge with the dowels canted a bit to keep stiles from pulling out . Another way to make joint tuffer is to countersink a screw in from the outside and plug it.  The screw has a lot of strength.

Over lapping door edges make door fitting easier .  You could glue a vertical to one door if you have two doors meeting with overlap.
I like the look of inset /flush door frames. They are more of a pita to fit .  But when all is done I like it .



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hackberry jake

Could you guys elaborate on building the bottom toe kick section separately? Could I use just regular pine lumber, to make it more resilient to standing water?
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69bronco

I've done the toe kick portion separately at times. If you are dealing with uneven/ not level floors you may find it easier to frame it in and level it up. Then just build your base boxes and set them on.

Just Me

Quote from: Larry link=topic=87958.msg1351166#msg1351166 ..s the head plumber I hated that vertical member when I did the sink plumbing.

/quote]

Sometimes I make the center style on the sink cabinet removable for this reason. Plumbers can be a little rough, so I will fit it and make it come out with two screws from the back.

I use insert cutters of the same style, and have had no issues with just gluing them up. If it is a large door such as a pantry I will increase the width of the bottom rail if design allows, and will used screws, plugged, through from the edge of the door to help hold the additional stress that large doors experience.

Just Me

Quote from: 69bronco on January 19, 2016, 07:40:37 AM
I've done the toe kick portion separately at times. If you are dealing with uneven/ not level floors you may find it easier to frame it in and level it up. Then just build your base boxes and set them on.

When I am in a crooked old house I use adjustable legs and clip on toe kicks. They are adjustable with a long screwdriver through a hole in the cabinet base, plastic plugs cover the holes after installation. Makes installs easy, and I have had no problems with them.

21incher

In my last house we were so pressed for storage space that I built cabinets with a 5 inch kick space and put pullout drawers with full extension ball bearing slides in them. It was amazing how much space we gained for less used items. Just tilted the slides up about 2 deg. so they would clear any imperfections in the floor. :)
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69bronco

Quote from: Just Me on January 19, 2016, 08:16:06 AM
Quote from: 69bronco on January 19, 2016, 07:40:37 AM
I've done the toe kick portion separately at times. If you are dealing with uneven/ not level floors you may find it easier to frame it in and level it up. Then just build your base boxes and set them on.

When I am in a crooked old house I use adjustable legs and clip on toe kicks. They are adjustable with a long screwdriver through a hole in the cabinet base, plastic plugs cover the holes after installation. Makes installs easy, and I have had no problems with them.
I think the OP was about building cabinets, not getting them from the store huh-smiley

69bronco

Quote from: 21incher on January 19, 2016, 09:08:55 AM
In my last house we were so pressed for storage space that I built cabinets with a 5 inch kick space and put pullout drawers with full extension ball bearing slides in them. It was amazing how much space we gained for less used items. Just tilted the slides up about 2 deg. so they would clear any imperfections in the floor. :)
That's a great idea!

petefrom bearswamp

My first effort was for my daughter , an entire kitchen.
Put too much glue on the tenon/slot frames and glued the panels in.
About 1/3 of the doors panels split and i had to do them over.
Still have the old doors kicking around the shop.
Lesson learned.
No that I am a snow bird, no more cabinet making for me as I saw in the summer and did shop projects in the winter.
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Larry

That's another reason why I pre-finish all my panels.  Keeps the glue from sticking if I do get a drop of squeeze out.  I try very hard to not get any squeeze out.

I've made mistakes also, but that's one way of learning. :-[

Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

hackberry jake

I had a problem with the rails sliding as I was machining the ends. I think I have that problem fixed now though.


 
https://www.facebook.com/TripleTreeWoodworks

EZ Boardwalk Jr. With 20hp Honda, 25' of track, and homemade setworks. 32x18 sawshed. 24x40 insulated shop. 30hp kubota with fel. 1978 Massey ferguson 230.

Just Me

Nice jig Jake.

If you just have a few parts to make with a quicky jig and don't want to do the clamps applying stickit sandpaper to the sled gives you enough traction to stop the slide into the cutter that is normal. I have to make a sled for mine soon for interior doors, will be something like what you have there but I have air clamps I'll probably use.

I picked up three of those cutters I PMed you and am going to set them up to do Shaker style interior doors for my house. I can get a  a 1 5/8 " tenon out of it, so with Wests System I think that will be just fine.

Also bought the cheap variable angle and tried it, works fine.

Just Me

Quote from: Larry on January 20, 2016, 02:33:15 PM
That's another reason why I pre-finish all my panels.  Keeps the glue from sticking if I do get a drop of squeeze out.  I try very hard to not get any squeeze out.

I've made mistakes also, but that's one way of learning. :-[

Me too, on both the pre-finish and the mistakes. Being self taught I screwed up a lot of stuff.

Sometimes I will tape the doors together and prefinish the profiled edge before it goes together, like on black lacquer cabinets that are a pain when together to get a perfect first coat. Spray, pull apart and sand, then assemble. Just for the really high end stuff though as its a bit of a pain.

Just Me

Quote from: 69bronco on January 19, 2016, 08:17:55 PM
Quote from: Just Me on January 19, 2016, 08:16:06 AM
Quote from: 69bronco on January 19, 2016, 07:40:37 AM
I've done the toe kick portion separately at times. If you are dealing with uneven/ not level floors you may find it easier to frame it in and level it up. Then just build your base boxes and set them on.

When I am in a crooked old house I use adjustable legs and clip on toe kicks. They are adjustable with a long screwdriver through a hole in the cabinet base, plastic plugs cover the holes after installation. Makes installs easy, and I have had no problems with them.
I think the OP was about building cabinets, not getting them from the store huh-smiley

I think you are confused, these do not come on box store cabinets.

http://www.specialtysupplies.com/-c-126.html

The end goal is to make money, and these are the ticket some times.

lowpolyjoe

Quote from: 21incher on January 19, 2016, 09:08:55 AM
In my last house we were so pressed for storage space that I built cabinets with a 5 inch kick space and put pullout drawers with full extension ball bearing slides in them. It was amazing how much space we gained for less used items. Just tilted the slides up about 2 deg. so they would clear any imperfections in the floor. :)

I love that idea 8)

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