Rock Not Centered

Started by YellowHammer, January 06, 2016, 01:03:11 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

YellowHammer

I have noticed that the center of the grinding rock on my Catsclaw does not align with the center of my band.  The wheel is a little to the inboard side as shown in the picture.  I was sharpening some factory bands today and noticed that since the rock isn't centered, it grinds heavier on the inside teeth and lighter on the outside teeth, putting a slight slant on the edge.  Also, the set corner of the inside tooth gets sharper faster, generally one or two passes quicker, than the set corner of my outside tooth.  So I'm having to take extra passes to grind more material off the band to get the outside set tooth sharp.  If I take a very light pass on a factory band, it's clearly takes material off the inside edge of the gullet, while not touching the outside edge of the gullet.  It's got a little sticker saying its "Factory Adjusted, Do Not Adjust Motor" so is this normal, or should I try to adjust the center of the rock to the band?
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

LeeB

Looking forward to more on this as I have a catclaw also.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

YellowHammer

I should have put his in the sawmill forum, for a little more visibility.
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

WDH

Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

elk42

YellowHammer
   My catsclaw is on the other side. As the rock breaks down it gets close to center over the blade.

 
Machinist Retired, Lt15 WM 25 HP, Stihl 044, Stihl 311, Kubota M2900w/FEL, KUBOTA L4800 w/FEL,
Lincoln Ranger 10,000, stihl 034,

Banjo picker

Could you please explain what you mean by other side?  Do you mean yours is grinding the outside first?  I think Yellowhammer s picture needs a slight rotation as well.  Banjo
Never explain, your friends don't need it, and your enemies won't believe you any way.

elk42

   Yes the center line of the rock to the saw blade is outside or operator side.
Machinist Retired, Lt15 WM 25 HP, Stihl 044, Stihl 311, Kubota M2900w/FEL, KUBOTA L4800 w/FEL,
Lincoln Ranger 10,000, stihl 034,

YellowHammer

 
Thanks for the replies, it just makes sense that mine is set up wrong, and its best to mount the rock on the centerline or a little outboard so as the rock wears it moves more toward center, and not further off the midline which puts even more slant on the edge.
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

LeeB

Can't say I ever paid any notice on mine. I have't sharpened a blade in months. Haven't run the mill in months either. I'll try to remember to check next time I do.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

LeeB

Just out of curiosity what width blades are you running? I would think the rock should basically stay in alignment no matter how much the rock wears. However if the drop is set for an 1 1/4" blade and you are running 1 1/2" then it would fall to the back side. Same thing as blades wear from sharpening but would then move toward the other direction.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

YellowHammer

I'm running 1 1/4 bands.  I'm not sure how much the arbor centerline will shift inward as the rock wears and the bands get thinner.  While I'm messing around with it, I'll try to get an idea.
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

4x4American


Heck I'd adjust it...now I gotta go check on mine.  I was gonna say I bet it's closer when you have a new rock on. 
Boy, back in my day..

kelLOGg

Well, I'm late to this party but I want to add the observations on my CatClaw I purchased in 2002.

The 1st pic shows a full size grind wheel and the alignment of the wheel center is very slightly inboard (to the right). I painted the gullet w/ Whiteout t mage it show up.


 

For the remaining pics I decided to remove the rock, put a piece of wide flat stock in place of the band and use a mechanics square to check the alignment.
The next pic simulates the alignment with a very worn rock, i.e., very close to the band position. The alignment is right on (within the thickness of the flat stock (1/16")).


 

The last pic shows the rock position (if the rock were installed) at a very high position, probably higher than is ever needed. The alignment is very much inboard.


 
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

LeeB

That only makes sense when the head moves in an arc. A CBN wheel is about the only way I can see to avoid it and even then you would a slight change as the blade wears.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

YellowHammer

Since I've moved the stone, it has been sharpening considerably better and more balanced on either side of the band.  Much better than before.
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

LeeB

Richard had some really good pointers on the cooks sharpener and alignment at the shindig this year at Customsawyers place. I'm pretty sure most of what I learned was directly related to issues from your machine.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Chuck White

If the center of the rock is in front of, or behind the band, make the correction by adjusting the pillow-block bearings that support the shaft for the rock!

I learned that a while back when I had to change the drive belt!

I also think that it mentions "squaring the rock to the band" in the manual!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!