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Band mill or chainsaw mill?

Started by AVF, December 24, 2015, 09:54:53 PM

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AVF

Looking to get or build my first sawmill.  Read a lot on both band and chainsaw mills.  Simply cannot decide. Any suggestions please? Thank you and a blessed merry Christmas to you all!
avf

Chuck White

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, AVF.

Best advice I can give you would be to go out and watch a few of each operate!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

Tom the Sawyer

AVF,

It really depends on the logs you will be milling, and what you want to get out of them.  Both systems have their strong points and their limitations. 

If you will be milling big logs and want to yield wide, live-edged slabs, then a chainsaw mill is the way to go.  If most of your logs will be under 36" diameter, and you want to create lumber such as 4/4 or 8/4, then a bandmill would be much faster and more efficient.  There is also the option of a swing-blade mill, which can handle the large logs but is limited in width of the boards you can create. 
07 TK B-20, Custom log arch, 20' trailer w/log loading arch, F350 flatbed dually dump.  Piggy-back forklift.  LS tractor w/FEL, Bobcat S250 w/grapple, Stihl 025C 16", Husky 372XP 24/30" bars, Grizzly 20" planer, Nyle L200M DH kiln.
If you call and my wife says, "He's sawin logs", I ain't snoring.

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

Adding to Tom's good comments...The more you spend for a log, the more important it becomes to achieve the higher yield of a band mill when sawing lumber, if profit is important.  As a guideline when sawing lumber, each 1/32" increase in kerf means about 2-1/2% loss in yield.  So, a 1/16" kerf compared to 1/4" kerf means the thinner kerf will have 75% less sawdust and 15% more lumber.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

Kbeitz

If your good at building things and you have a source for metal and can weld you can make
a good bandsaw mill for between $1000-$2000 .

This one cost my $1280.00 for everything. E-bay becomes your pal.

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,82853.0.html
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Ox

Just a little to add on to what's already been said.  I've run both chain mill and band mill and prefer the band mill.  For lumber, bandmill wins hands down.  It's possible to build a house from chainsaw mill lumber but you better have lots of time and patience.  For most uses, I prefer a bandmill.  99.9% of the time.  The only real purpose I see for a chainsaw mill is for super wide slabs for unusual projects.  Lots of power and huge bars are required for this purpose.  I can mill a squared off cant up to around 34" on the mill I built which is more than enough for slabs for counter tops and such.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

mad murdock

If you don't have the budget for a lot of support equipment, and you want to get started making something, i would go with a Chainsaw mill (CSM).  If you are going to be cutting a lot of dimensional lumber, like Tom the Sawyer suggested,  a swing blade mill would be a good choice.  If you have a tractor with FEL or something like a bobcat or other loader, a Band Sam Mill (BSM) is tough to beat. I have a CSM as i like the small footprint, and the extreme versatility.  I have come up with several strategies that makes the CSM typical time and labor demands greatly reduced, so i can get quite a bit accomplished for my efforts, and all i need for support equipment is a peavey and a good axe, along with a few chainsaws. I only bought 1 new one, the rest of the ones I use are either freebies or used ones I picked up for less than 10 bucks each. Besides the saw the cost is in the chain and bar/drive sprocket setup. I run stihl's 63PMX milling chain that makes a 1/4" kerf, so i get faster milling eith less waste, as so nicely explained by Gene. Learnint how to sharpen a chain is a must, but not hard to accomplish with a good filing guide like a Granberg.  Whichever way you go, you will be delighted with the results! Not many things as satisfying as milling your own wood!!
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

terrifictimbersllc

I have a bandsaw mill because I was doing chainsaw milling. 
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

4x4American

Boy, back in my day..

drobertson

This will come off as contrary, but do some chain saw milling, a few logs, youtube has some easy to follow setups for beginners.  Drag some logs up, get a feel for it, check the end results, then try and visit a band mill operation and compare the two.  Not much cost in that.  Either way it sounds like you are in one way or the other and I wish you the best, and a  :new_year:
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

JohnW

Will log handling equipment be a factor for you?  If you're milling logs like where they fell when you cut them, you can carry you're chainsaw mill and other equipment right to the tree.  Hauling a bandsaw mill to the stump would be a whole different deal.

Ianab

Another thing to consider is do you have a heavy duty ~90cc professional grade chainsaw already?

If you do, then an "Alaskan" style mill wont take much to set up, and you can be milling next week. It's hard work, but you can mill logs.

If you don't have a suitable saw, then you are going to spend 1/2 way to buying a real band sawmill to get set up. And running a little Woodland or similar mill is a LOT less work than a chainsaw mill.

So it depends what you have to work with. With a band saw, you have to be able to move the logs. With a chainsaw mill you can carry the "mill" to the log. Size of logs? Access to the site? What you intend to saw from them?  All make a difference.

Generally I'd suggest a small band mill, either home built or a commercial model, new or used. (See sponsor list over there <---)
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

gfadvm

The best day I've had in a long time was the day I got my LT15 and sold my Alaskan Chainsaw Mill!

AVF

First let me thank you all so much! Love the collective advice.
I have lots of red pine that is about ready for the third thinning along with hard maple, aspen, birch, tamarack and some bigger white pine.  Typically northern WI forest. I am renovating a house so I need dimensional lumber, paneling, beams  and some siding. I do have a tractor with loader.  I was planning on a stationary mill a couple of feet off ground to make it easier on the back. I'm 55 now so I think about these things! ☺️
I'm thinking band mill.  My hearing is bad and I would like to keep what I have left! Any suggestions with up to a. &5,000 budget?
Thanks again everyone!!
avf

justallan1

I've never run a CSM, so can't comment there. I have had a couple bandsaw mills and will say that if you have access to the logs and a way to handle them a mill is a great investment. Without a whole bunch of effort both of my mills have paid for themselves in a short time, plus all of the lumber that I need for myself.
I have an EZ Boardwalk JR. and am really impressed. I think the biggest thing I've sawn on it was about 24-26" and it handled it fine. I just don't have a bad thing to say about it. The thing is bullet proof, it has a Honda motor that starts every time and I believe it is the best priced mill in that size range.
Good luck in your adventure.

Ox

You asked for suggestions for a bandsaw mill.  My suggestion is to check out the sponsors to the left and top of this awesome forum.  I have a strong feeling they would not be allowed here by Jeff if they all weren't excellent companies!  I think you'll find that Woodmizer is the most popular mill in the country if that means anything to you.  As for me, I built a Linn Lumber style mill from scratch last winter and I'd never do another one unless I was paid around $10,000.  Plus materials.  Plus an apprentice that can see things straight and not upside down or backwards.  Plus a new shop.  Plus a new collection of tools.  Plus my mortgage paid off. 

Well, you get the point.  ;D

Judging from what you want from your timber, a bandmill is your wisest choice by far.  You mentioned beams - just be sure the mill you pick can cut wide enough and long enough for your largest expected beam.  Simple, right?  :D  Picking a new mill will probably be like picking a new truck you'll be running for the rest of your life!  Keep us posted.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Brad_bb

If you want to mill wood, buy a band mill.  If you enjoy fabricating, build a mill, but it will be awhile before you are milling and you may not have all the worked out nice adjustments and features of mills like Woodmizer who have been refining it for many years. 

If you want to mill wood, get a bandsaw mill first. I will allow you to cut boards, thick slabs, and beams.  Then if you think you want to cut logs bigger than the mill will handle, or cut full table slabs, then get a chainsaw mill.

Definitely a lot more physical effort, vibration, and time to chainsaw mill.  I say only do it when you dont' have an easier way. 
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

beenthere

AVF posted
QuoteI have lots of red pine that is about ready for the third thinning along with hard maple, aspen, birch, tamarack and some bigger white pine.  Typically northern WI forest.

A bandmill more that adequate to handle what is in the northern WI forest. IMO
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

YellowHammer

I had a chainsaw mill, an Alaskan, and I milled a lot of wood with it, long ago.  I would set it up in the morning, saw most of the day, then do it again the next.  I had a name for it, I called it the "Puker" because that's how I knew when to quit for the day, because that's what I felt like.  Between the vibration, the noise, eating the sawdust, bent over and pushing the rig similar to an all day sit up or crunch, sharpening chains, refilling constantly with gas and oil, it would just wear me out.   
Then I got a band mill, nothing fancy, and it was magic. 
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

ChadH

I started with an Alaskan Mill on my Stihl chainsaw, I spent about 4 months last year milling cedar for a raised Jetty or platform I built on the Lake at our cabin. I made 6x5 beams, 2x10 boards for the decking, and 6.5''x10'' main beams 26' long, and a bunch of other dimensions. I had fun doing it, I had lots of sore backs, and even some carbon monoxide poisoning when I first started Milling with the log on the ground. The fumes would flow right back to me from between the log and the sawdust pile. I soon built a raised log deck to get up to a standing height and to allow the air to dissipate the exhaust fumes. The over all deck was 10' x 26' and turned out really well. I have come up some with good methods to help speed up CSM's but they are just not that fast at milling. alot of set up time to make your first cut, and alot of wasted wood between your rails of setting up and the 1/4 kerf. It was also very easy to produce less then great lumber.

I have since being on the hunt for something better, and after lots of countless hours researching band mills, and talking to owners, and trying some others, I have Ordered my own WM LT35HD. I should have it soon and cant wait! There is no doubt that both can produce wood, but a CSM especially the alaskan mill, is a ton of back breaking work. what took me months to do with the alaskan, will take a day on the woodmizer. Im only 27 and Im not new to hard work, I love hard work and cant stand to sit still, (the wife hates that about me, Ive always got to have something or many things on the go) but I dont see choosing the alaskan mill anymore unless there is the odd log here and there to tackle with the alaskan first.   

End result, do your research on bandmills, you cant go wrong, and sometimes spending a little extra money on it is a better choice in the long run. dont forget about resale value down the road. But I doubt you let go of a band mill once you have it!

Good luck on what ever you decide!

Cheers
Chad H
Westcoast Custom Timber

Wood-Mizer LT35 Hydraulic sawmill
Stihl 090 X2 in running order
Stihl 460 36" bar
Husqvarna 345 18" bar
Granberg Alaskan sawmill

Magicman

Hello ChadH and Welcome to the Forestry Forum and Congrats on the sawmill.  Please add your location to your profile so that we will know a bit more about you and what you will be sawing.  Don't forget to show pictures.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

starmac

I'm pretty new to the game, but it has been my experience that just watching someone using a csm is exhausting.
My mill has the hydraulics, and I wouldn't have it any other way. Maybe if I was 20 years younger, I might consider a manual mill, but still would have regretted it and would have wanted to upgrade the very first time I watched a hydraulic mill run.
Old LT40HD, old log truck, old MM forklift, and several huskies.

thecfarm

I myself have a manual mill. BUT I only saw for me. I might of made $500 in the 10 years that I have owned it. I don't really have time to saw for others,plus it's ALOT of work with a manual mill. But maybe less than a CSM. I do have a tractor to help turn the big ones.Now someone will ask me to saw something, I quote a high price. Most times I just get the ones that are looking for a deal on sawing.  ::)  I bought the mill to make a few outbuildings with.

Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Upper

I bought a Stihl and an Alaskan about 4 months ago,I fear now it's use will only now be to whittle a 48 incher to fit on my 36 band saw mill..........Boy the mod's I could have gotten with that extra $2k........................Upper
Stihl 661
Alaskan 36 CSM
36" guillotine splitter powered by a GMC V6
I like to build stuff
LT35HD Wood-Mizer

Clevelander

I really appreciate all of the feedback here as I too am wondering about the actual sawing experience I can expect from a 76" DSM (Dedicated Slabbing Mill). I have access to 76" wide hardwood that I'd like to mill for slab tables etc. and am curious about what I should expect in real world applications.
Live your truth and your truth will find you

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