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Started by henry co., December 22, 2015, 01:32:01 AM

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henry co.

I just bought a skidder going to log my own woods i was wondering what kind of choker i need chain or cable wire never log before .Trees are 14 to 48 inchs

beenthere

To answer that question, IIRC, it is somewhat regional specific.

Click your forum name, and it will take you to where you can update your profile with at least a location. Am sure, if you do much reading of posts here, that having location info is helpful to better understand what is posted. ;)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

longtime lurker

There are advantages and disadvantages with either.
Cable is easier to get under a log. If your logs tend to be reasonably uniform in size it's faster. Long cable chokes tend to be a PITA on the machine when not in use.

Chain has an advantage in that you can endlessly adjust the length of the choke so that the end of the log is clear of the ground... Makes for lower impact operations because you don't have the nose plowing a furrow.

We pull a lot of "tree" length... Or 40', whichever comes first. I use chain: I carry 2x 8' and 1x 12' chain chokes on the machine, and I an always hook two chains together if necessary. Logs that size if you can't get the nose up you often can't tow them but I tell ya... I loose an hour most days to scratching holes under logs to get a chain under them.

I think the best choke system might be grapple :D
The quickest way to make a million dollars with a sawmill is to start with two million.

Plankton

I like chains never used cables though, I run 7 10 ft chokers I have eight bells on my cable so I plan on grabbing another chain soon.

If you get chain chokers be sure to buy a grab rod or chain hook or whatever it's called in your area you can slide the rod under the log, hook the open end of the chain on and unless the log is right on a stump or rock you can always get the chain around them.

Mine cost 8 dollars at the local logging shop and payed itself back on the first day in time saved.

LittleJohn

I have run both.

Cables when I was working for a local logger (they were behind a big skidder/forwarder, with a winch)
Chains are on my old mans "little" woods rig, 50hp John Deere, with grapple trailer

I like chains better, less slivers :-X; plus they are easier to repair/replace

Ohio_Bill

I am certainly not high production so not sure how my setup would work in that environment. I use chain but I also use New England chokers when pulling smaller logs or having trouble getting  the chain under the log . They are like regular chokers but with 3 links of chain on the end  .

 
Bill
USAF Veteran  C141 Loadmaster
LT 40 HDD42-RA   , Allis Chalmers I 500 Forklift , Allis Chalmers 840 Loader , International 4300 , Zetor 6245 Tractor – Loader ,Bob Cat 763 , Riehl Steel Edger

OH logger

Quote from: Ohio_Bill on December 22, 2015, 08:45:13 PM
I am certainly not high production so not sure how my setup would work in that environment. I use chain but I also use New England chokers when pulling smaller logs or having trouble getting  the chain under the log . They are like regular chokers but with 3 links of chain on the end  .

 
never saw one like that. what is the advantage of that kind over just a regular choker?? when I had the cable skidder I just used regular cable chokers. I got along with them as good as can be expected. they all get pretty darn frustratin on the right days >:(.  I ran 10 footers for most stuff until I got into bigger tree and needed longer ones. just talkin about it makes me thankful for the grapple ;)
john

Ohio_Bill

No advantage at all . Just lets you use a choker when your mainline is configured for chain.
Bill
USAF Veteran  C141 Loadmaster
LT 40 HDD42-RA   , Allis Chalmers I 500 Forklift , Allis Chalmers 840 Loader , International 4300 , Zetor 6245 Tractor – Loader ,Bob Cat 763 , Riehl Steel Edger

OH logger

gotcha that makes sense ;)
john

BargeMonkey

 6-8 good chain chokers will last you a long time. I cut alot of stuff from small to big and the only time I hate chain is springtime when the bark is slipping. Square chain seems like a hype, yeah it bites a bit better but not for the cost. Do yourself a favor and paint your chokers, pink / orange, something bright. The paint will wear off but it's well worth it when you lose a choker. If you hook something big, just hook your bottom slide with your top slide  and you have an "adjustable" chain. Wire chokers get kinked after a while, and if your working in rocky or sandy soil they will wear quicker. I've got 10 on my 460, miserable sometimes but your dragging quite the heap of wood out.

C5C Tree Farmer

Quote from: henry co. on December 22, 2015, 01:32:01 AM
I just bought a skidder going to log my own woods i was wondering what kind of choker i need chain or cable wire never log before .Trees are 14 to 48 inchs
What make and model of skidder did you end up with?

henry co.


C5C Tree Farmer

What's the nature of the trees that you plan on harvesting?
Hardwoods, Softwoods, Pulpwood, etc? Average height?
Is your initial plan to buck the logs onsite or skid tree length to a landing area?

henry co.

Hardwoods pretty tall 70 feet or so going buck them where they fall.

henry co.

Hardwoods pretty tall 70 feet or so going buck them where they fall.

OH logger

what state u in henry co.?
john

timberjackrob

cable chokers is all that is used in these parts I like the double end 10ft
208 timberjack, woodmizer lt28,case 455 trackloader with gearmatic winch,massey 4710, ford f250s ford f700

henry co.


C5C Tree Farmer

The Farmi winch I started with came with chain chokers. I considered them a real pain especially in snow. On the C5 I ran 7 bells and 6-6' cable chokers. I left the second to the last bell open for use on oversize wood. I would run the end 6' choker plus mainline around the trunk and then hooked the choker back into the open bell to cinch it.

If you are going to buck in the woods the logs will want to sit pretty tight on the ground. I think you will be happier with cable chokers.

On an unrelated note do you have any experience bucking logs for grade? In hardwoods clear faces mean everything and inexperience can sometimes throw a lot of income potential away. I learned the hard way on the first sale of red oak I cut.

thecfarm

I know it takes time,but I put limbs or small trees under the tree. I always cut a "road" for the tree to fall into,I lay down some small trees and fall the tree onto that.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

HiTech

I used 5/16" 100 grade chain chokers from 5 to 7 foot long. They are light to carry and really strong. I have found if the choker isn't long enough I use two sliders. Hook one end of the chain to one slider and the other end to the other slider. 5/16" chain chokers in 100 grade are like hens teeth, hard to find. I ordered some chain and made my own. The C-hooks you can get at most logging supply dealers. Tried a couple 70 grade 5/16" chokers and found they broke easily. For skidders a 100hp and down they are all you really need. A little common sense and they will last a life time. I have seen big skidders snap 3/8 chokers like they were baler twine. These guys seem to hook up and winch till either the load comes or something breaks. You have to be careful when you have that kind of power or a big wallet. lol

Koot Kraftsman

I realize this is an old thread but since I didn't see anyone mention it... 

Plus I have a question for everyone.

I have logged with an old JD450 crawler loader that had a winch using cable and cable chokers as well as many plain Jane tractors using chain, even some light logging with a 4 wheeler using chain.  

I now find myself in a situation where I have 40 acres to log that is on the side of a mountain.  Some terrain is steep, some pretty flat, but most is somewhere in between.  There is a good road that runs right through the middle of it all with a few split-offs.

I currently own a fully restored JD450B crawler loader (4-in-1 bucket) with backhoe and an IH TD-8E with 6-way blade.  The thing is... neither have a winch so I'll be logging using that main road requiring me to have a minimum of one re-direct with a snatch block for each turn.  

I plan on using cable simply because it's easier to log the property using a snatch block to re-direct and of course, that dictates cable.  The only thing is that I've never logged using cable without having a winch lol. I guess I could just buy one really long choker with a spliced eye on one side to hook to the crawler's tow hitch and a nubbin on the other with a few bells but I can't find that setup anywhere (readily available anyways).  I did find a 100' choker without the extra bells which would allow for one log at a time or possibly a bundle/turn but I don't think 100' will be long enough to reach the property line, especially once you count the re-direct and width of the road.

Any better ideas out there for getting the timber to the road with my equipment or know of someone who sells a setup like I described above with multiple bells? I suppose I could also simply shackle a few short chokers above the main.  What do you all think?


Oddman

I've done a fair amount of cable and snatch block logging, no winch, and find myself making every excuse in the book nowadays to Not do it....very very time consuming and tiring. Even with a helper. 

That said, i never did have a setup like you are wanting where I could get more than 2-3 trees in a single pull. Perhaps the ideal cable like you describe would make it substantially faster but I have my doubts. If you don't have a helper I would probably not even consider it, you will be doing an awful lot of mount-dismount the machine and walking. And moving the snatchblock from place to place. Consider a self-releasing snatch block.
Consider mounting some kind of winch to your machine. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

BargeMonkey

Just buy a long enough piece of cable, whatever you think you need + some, typically comes with 1 crimped button. Throw 2-3 cable slides on, put a replaceable ferrule on the bald end of the cable, and either a large hook 🤷‍♂️ or another slide to hook onto, could clamp it over, just a slider, slider + chain to the dozer, basically just a long string. Like someone else said the idea sounds great 😆 but alot of work. 

Plankton

Can you make punch roads off the main road to get closter to the wood? 

AndrewM

Hang a block as high as you can in a  tree, or from the back-hoe, form a dogleg with the other tractor running down the road slope. 

Bit overkill, but a thorough description of rigging components. 

https://www.bcforestsafe.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/lng_1013_Describe_Rigging_Components_and_Basic_Rigging_Practices.pdf

47sawdust

Mick
1997 WM Lt30 1999 WM twin blade edger Kubota L3750 Tajfun winchGood Health Work is my hobby.

Koot Kraftsman

I actually tried replying a few times but it wouldn't post for some reason, head scratcher.  I truly believe you, that it will be a lot of work and a lot of on-off the crawler. I'm that crazy man that enjoys lots of work and while I don't like to waste time, it doesn't bother me as much when I'm doing something I enjoy that is ultimately productive.    

The good news is that a vast majority of the timber I'll be harvesting will be smaller (think 15"- 20" in diameter).  I do have a good sized warn winch that is setup to mount in a trailer receiver, I could give that a go using various means to get the timber to the road, then it's all a straight pull after that with a large load of logs.  

I'll probably give many different methods a go, just to try new ways of getting the job done.

The one thing I don't like about a long diverted pull without a winch is that I won't be able to see what's happening most of the time such as getting hung up on other trees, stumps, rocks, etc. 

I do fully grasp the idea of mounting a snatch high to get the timber at least off the ground, which would alleviate most of the hang-ups.

Much to think about, thanks for the ideas and input!

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