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Tree Maturity?

Started by Jeff, March 22, 2002, 04:50:56 AM

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Bud Man

LW Might try growing bog plants and an assortment of water plants, tons of money in them. Unsure of adaptation to Maine's Winter though. Give www.lilypons.com a look see.  I'm going to do some tissue culture on Lilies and Hosta's sounds like they might be plausable and rewarding for your enviorn's ?  
The groves were God's first temples.. " A Forest Hymn"  by.. William Cullen Bryant

L. Wakefield

   It's an idea..I do have an area that would probably work for that with a little development. The soil is sweeter and there is more light- there is a series of seeps that if they were a little better in quality might be dignified with the name of 'springs'. What I'd like to do in that area is turn them into a series of catchment basins.

   The 'problem area' I was visualizing back about 8 posts in this thread- the area I'd like to improve but think it's a tough go- has several vernal pools, and one has an old 'canal' dug from it to the brook. I don't know about the history here; if it wasn't really a vernal pool but really an ice pond or something and they had the canal so it could be blocked as desired. There is some sphagnum, lots of the more common green moss surrounding the area, lots of dead leaves from red (swamp) maple, and the water is always very black, I think from tannin. One would think your water plant idea could go directly to that vernal pool, but looking at the quality of the light, air, and water, I am not sure what plants would like it.

   That does remind me, tho, of what the local vet-cum-nurseryman was telling me about how he and his brother manage their nursery (he had spotted THE HAT when I took the dogs in to be checked, and we got to talkin..) He takes trees that he is planning to sell (seedlings) in pots and kinda sets them at the verge of a swampy area like that and they grow like crazy- self-watering more or less. I can't remember if it was cedar or what.

   When I did soil tests I hadn't gone this far into the lower lying tree farm areas. I'll get round tuit on that, as several have suggested. I did try cranberry in there, and basket willow, and they just haven't liked it. I was totally miffed at the willows' rejection of my plan ('hey, you're WILLOWS, it's wet here, what more do you WANT, anyway?' They weren't listening..)   lw
L. Wakefield, owner and operator of the beastly truck Heretik, that refuses to stay between the lines when parking

YeeterSkeeter09

Thank you for talking about the maturity of trees.  It really helped me.  I have my own company that surveys land, and it is called Natural Space.  Don't try to look it up because it is still in development.  We are also trying to get a website up, but we are having some technical difficulties.  Anyway, because we are surveying land, we need to have some background knowledge and this really helped.  Well off to deliver my report to the professor. 

Cedar Eater

Wow, you just woke up a fifteen year old thread.  :D I was almost a complete noob back then.
Cedar Eater

Texas Ranger

Welcome, Yeeter, fill out you information so we know a little about you, then pull up a stump and join in the conversation.
The Ranger, home of Texas Forestry

Banjo picker

I enjoyed that myself.  Glad it got pulled up from the depths.  And welcome.  Banjo
Never explain, your friends don't need it, and your enemies won't believe you any way.

killamplanes

Lots of good info. Here most consider 16 inch mature across the species. Of course rule of thumb.
jd440 skidder, western star w/grapple,tk B-20 hyd, electric, stihl660,and 2X661. and other support Equipment, pallet manufacturing line

larry1

Well here is my take on this . I am no forester but have observed many different cutting methods and philosophies over the years. So , I have a 40 acre, 99% maple stand of tress that are all about  14 -16 inches . My lot was clear cut in the 1940's to make charcoal for the steel mill. Some of the hard maple is veneer  but there is lots of soft and it's pulp/firewood . I had a very creditable forester cruise it and he tells me there is 800 bush cords . So, I'm 61 do I let it grow and pass it onto my kids .

I bought a 230 and planned on thinning it myself but the trees are so close together that I'm afraid to ruin the good ones, so I never cut a stick . I 'd sell everything if someone made me a good offer . The lot is accessible spring to fall unless you want to plow 1.5 miles of road.

The forester suggested that I clear cut it again and go back in 100 years for another cut . I really need to decide or do nothing and let it grow. My kids want to make a sugar bush and tap the bad hard maples and that's okay to but then you burn down the bush for heating the evaporator.

Up in this part of the country , maple should be harvested up to 20" because they get big hearts especially if they are growing on the north side of the hills. Oak are all usually pretty good up to any size . Yellow birch after 20" get hollow and white are don't usually get that big without dying from the top down . As for softwood , not any big stands where I am , but the white spruce mixed in where the hardwoods grows is always tall and sound.


coxy

larry1    I'm not trying to be a smart      but how do you know you have veneer  with out cutting them down first   and what is the benefit of clear cutting it if you have a good selection of wood    this fall I cut a 35a piece of land for the 4th time my dad cut it 2 times before that  and if things go right I should get 2-3 more cuttings before I'm gone  every time it gets cut I cut it to 14in  this last time it was mostly soft maple the next cuttings will be 90%cherry

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