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Adapting 066 or 660 bar to an 084

Started by james04, December 14, 2015, 05:00:18 PM

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james04

Hi all,

I would like to take advantage of the low cost ($200) of the Forester 52" bar for my 084. However they do not make one for the 084 mount(large?) (X-large?). Anyway, if I turn down the studs on my 084. How will I determine how many drive links to order? Forrester lists 156 drive links for the 066 with 3/8" .063" chain. That would be there D025 mount.

This setup will be used for an Alaskan mill doing hardwoods in the 30" to 40" range. What sprocket should I use? I know it is a lot of questions. But Id rather ask and look foolish than make the wrong decisions out of the gate.

James

ehp

first you need the cut the nose of the bar so you can get bar oil to it , its been a while but I'm thinking the oil slot in the crankcase will be above what the 066 bar oil hole , you can make anything work if you want to do enough work

james04

I do plan on drilling so if I need to relocate the oil hole then that should not be a problem. I just saw that a different vendor is quoting 168 drive links for the 52" bar. Not the 156 like the original vendor stated. Now I don't know which one is correct and if that would remain the same when applying it to the 084.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/STIHL-52-Model-066-064-056-048-Professional-Chainsaw-long-Bar-FREE-CHAIN-/281730547568

ehp

I donot think your getting what I mean, if you go ahead and turn down your bar studs and mount the bar , the oil groove in the 084 crankcase is going to be higher than the bar and not just abit , the 066 bar end that fits to the saw is to narrow compared to a bar end meant to fit the 084

HolmenTree

The 084 bar slot is 14.0mm (.553") wide. The 066 bar slot is 12.1mm (.475").
If you turned the 084 bar studs down to fit the narrower 066 slot the offset side chain tensioner screw of the 084 will not clear.
You have to cut the 066 bar slot out to match the 084 slot.
Now there is enough clearance from the edge of the 066 bar for the 084 oil slot hole. But you would have to get a machinest to drill it as that area of the rails is super hard. A 1/4" lower the bar is soft.


  

 
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

james04

Thank you very much for that visual. Do you think I can use a HSS end mill for the slot. I have a mini mill that I could mount the bar in. What about a carbide mill for the hole near the edge?

I just saw that a cannon 50" could be had for $350. I may just have to wait and get that. Unless I go down to a 44" double ended bar for $220. But I would like to be able to mill at least 40" so I don't think that would work.

James


HolmenTree

James04,
Im not a machinest but I have done these conversions with these exact 2 bar pads with simple shop tools.
Just a drill press, 4.5"angle grinder and a bench mounted grinder can do this job just fine as I've have done before.
Cut the tail of the 066 bar off (complete slot), at 90°,you'll loose 3". Use the 084 bar for a template and scribe out the tail contour and slot onto the 066 bar.

Now with a 4.5" angle grinder I cut out the slot, drilled a 1/2 " hole at the end to make the end of the slot. The slot doesn't need to be enclosed at the end.
I ground the 2 contour sides with my bench grinder and cut the rail slot to depth special with a thin cut quick disc on the hand grinder.
Now the holes can be drilled on the bar as the metal is soft away from the hardened edge
A little honing on the rails and you're good to go.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

james04

If I understand you correctly. The reason for cutting off the end is to get rid of the narrow area? That is a great idea. It feels a bit adventurous not knowing too much about saws and bars. But I am that type of guy that does not shy away from a technical challenge. I suppose that is why I own a mini mill and a lathe. I need to keep this project off of the wife's radar as she was against the idea of even buying the 084 for $400. That is insane in her eyes. Wait till I tell her I need money for chains.

By the way. Do you see any reason why I need to go with .404" pitch. Will a 3/8" .063 hold up to milling hardwoods on a 50" bar? Any recommendation on what size drive sprocket I should use?

HolmenTree

Yes to get rid of the narrow part.

Yes Happy wife Happy life........there's a fine balance there :)

A saw chain's worst enemy is heat and chain stretch and in milling that's life.
.404 for a 50" bar most definitely,  the chassis of the .404 is far more stable then the 3/8" under these conditions. Plus the beefier drive links help keep the cutters in a more rigid position for optimum cutting.
Milling softwood I keep the depth gauges of the .404 chisel chain at .040", mind you I'm running a Stihl 090 at 137cc displacement.  7 tooth .404 spur or rim sprocket is the standard what I use.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

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