Jammed the Cable Using a Self-Release Snatch Block

[g_man]

A couple weeks ago I was using the self-release snatch block on a long pull and thought it might make a good video. Mistake #1  :D. Anyway, I was pulling a fir log thru a young hardwood stand that I did not want to damage. I set the snatch block on a smallish red oak. Wanting to minimize the stress on the oak I set it very close to the ground not thinking of anything else. Here is my video. You can see my set-up at the 34 sec mark.

http://youtu.be/ofgkSwgpPBg

Because the block was lower than the log and the winch pulls up, the cable actually lifted when it released instead of dropping down and away. It lifted and got jammed under the sheave even though it can't fit under there.   :D I had to take the sheave off to get it out.



 

A good lesson learned and in hind sight obvious. I guess I always set it higher w/o thinking about it. I use it a lot.

It won't happen again. I made a guard out of a short piece of rod.



 



 

Just thought I would post this in case I am not the only one who never thought about this and has one of these nice snatch blocks.

gg

[John Mc]

The same thing happened to me. My cable was badly kinked as a result.  I had to use the winch to pull the cable back out. It took a bit of doing to get it set up to pull out, instead of pulling it deeper in.

That's a good idea of welding on the guard. I'll have to do that to mine when I get a chance.

Is that one of the APM snatch blocks? I have one of those, as well as another block I got from Labonville. Not sure who makes the Labonville block, but if I recall, on that one the release lever is mounted up on a block which is welded to the base. That block is spaced just right to prevent the cable from falling down behind the wheel.

[Hilltop366]

Video camera! That will learn ya. ;D 

Nice fix.

[John Mc]

Unrelated to the jam, and it's hard to tell for sure in the video, but you also may have more luck (or an easier pull) if you pull the log more out into the clearing just beyond where you now have the snatch block before making the turn. If the log is out more in the open when the snatch block releases, it has room to swing when it makes the corner.

[Peter Drouin]

That's a long pull. Why not cut the small crooked trees out of the way. With that small tractor you can get around easily.
Good job on the block.

[g_man]

Unrelated to the jam, and it's hard to tell for sure in the video, but you also may have more luck (or an easier pull) if you pull the log more out into the clearing just beyond where you now have the snatch block before making the turn. If the log is out more in the open when the snatch block releases, it has room to swing when it makes the corner.

Thanks but it had plenty of room to turn at that point and I had less slash to pull thru on that route. I made the rest of the pull by taking the strap off the tree and pulled the log to the tractor with the block still jammed on the cable.

Yes it is an APM block. Why use the winch to get the cable out. Just take off the snap ring and the sheave comes right off.

The spacing under the sheave is smaller than the cable but it was still able to get jammed under there. Maybe it could happen to the Labonville block to but I never saw one.

gg

[John Mc]

Yes it is an APM block. Why use the winch to get the cable out. Just take off the snap ring and the sheave comes right off.

Because I was out in the woods and still had some winching to do. I tried to get the snap ring off by putting a small piece of wood against it and tapping, but the cable was wedging it in there too tightly.

The spacing under the sheave is smaller than the cable but it was still able to get jammed under there. Maybe it could happen to the Labonville block to but I never saw one. 

Here's a picture of a the block sold by Labonville. Not sure who makes it.


Hard to see in the picture, but the block of metal that the release tab sits on serves the same function as that bit of rod you welded in on yours.

[47sawdust]

g man,
Where's the mud? Here in central Vt. I don't dare go in the woods or I would make a fine mess.
Thanks for the post.

[g_man]

That was 2 weeks ago - It is plenty muddy now after last weeks rain and warm weather. That is why I was playing on the computer yesterday  :D

gg

[by677]

Great idea g_man, I haven't had that issue myself yet but will know how to solve it.  In fact, I haven't use my snatch block that much because I didn't like the way it was self releasing the first time I used it.  I figured I needed something on the line ahead of the choker to prevent binding at the pulley.  I still haven't solved it.  I am curious to know how you get a smooth release of the looking tab (lever) without anything gaming up and ruining the pulley in the process ? Do you have something riding on your line ahead of the chain choker?

Thanks

Guy

[John Mc]

I just use the slider that my choker hooks in to to release the block. Rarely have problems with it. When I do, I just release the tension, than come at it again and it releases. No damage to the pulley other than cosmetic scratches here and there.

[g_man]

Great idea g_man, I haven't had that issue myself yet but will know how to solve it.  In fact, I haven't use my snatch block that much because I didn't like the way it was self releasing the first time I used it.  I figured I needed something on the line ahead of the choker to prevent binding at the pulley.  I still haven't solved it.  I am curious to know how you get a smooth release of the looking tab (lever) without anything gaming up and ruining the pulley in the process ? Do you have something riding on your line ahead of the chain choker?

Thanks

Guy

This how mine works. I have 4 chokers and a hook on the cable and it works like it should. I am wondering if you might be putting the snatch block upside down to cause your troubles. You probably know this but in case you don't make sure you have the open side of the pulley down. When the hook or slider goes around the pulley it lifts the cable out of the groove and the cable falls down. If you sheave is getting chewed up maybe it is to soft ???

http://youtu.be/a0WLEYzlf0g

gg

[John Mc]

What G_man posted is just how mine works. I usually leave a bit more free length on the choker, so it trips before the log gets all the way to the pulley.

[simonmeridew]

I had the same thing happen; the cable and pulley were so tightly bound the circlip wouldn't come off without a lot of serious work. The whole time the tractor was bound to the tree with the strap, so long walk back to the house for tools etc. I welded small piece of rod like other posters and it hasn't happened since. On the whole this is a very clever device, not sure if manufacturer knows about this issue.
I have found that it works better with the open side of the pulley is down.
simonmeridew

[John Mc]

I have communicated with APM who is the manufacturer. He thanked me for describing the problem (I also mentioned that another person had experienced the same problem, and described g_man's solution). He said he had heard of the problem one other time. He said "If we make another run of these, that's certainly something we would consider."

[peterpaul]

Here is the self releasing snatch block I have.  http://www.labonville.com/Self-Releasing-4-Snatch-Block_p_93.html  The small welded rectangular block welded to the frame also serves as the detent pocket for the release ball/spring assembly in the trip lever.  I have a 8' continous loop sling (like this one http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Lifting-Slings/PRS4-Tan/Endless-Polyester-Round-Lifting-Sling-10-Tan) that I threaded through the large hole in the pully frame and then looped over the tang.  I just put the sling around the tree and pass the pulley through the sling to choke the tree.  No clevis or chain and the sling is very easy on trees.  The slider trips the lever.  Never had a problem.   I do make sure the pulley is facing the ground when using.

[by677]

I was out last weekend gathering woods for the coming winter and I decided to use my self releasing snatch block.  The pull was not particularly heavy and I made sure the snatch block was facing down.  When the chooker climbed the sheaves it did release the cable but not really in a clean manner, it manged to bit a chunk out of the sheaves and I don't like it.  If were using it more often, the sheave would end being all shouwed up and likely destroyed.  I need to have something ahead of the choker that would nicely ride and trigger a clean release of the line.  Just not sure what I could use yet.  I am using AMP self release snatch block.  Could the sheave be too soft as mentioned by a poster and might need to be hardened or should I consider replacing my chokers which they all look alike anyway. Or else, should I leave one choker ride free just ahead of the pulling choker ?  I might also consider smoothing out the elges of the chokers with a grinder to see if this may help.
I just hate to see a brand new expensive snatch block being damaged that quickly.

[g_man]

It sounds strange to have a chunk come off the sheave. It is pretty tough - at least mine is. Was it the large diameter or small diameter rim that broke out ?? If it was the large one maybe your cable got under it. This is how I have my line rigged - just sliders on the line. Often the first one has a log on it too.



 

gg

[47sawdust]

Well this week I jammed the cable on my Farmi self releasing snatch block.Thanks to g man it was an easy fix.A small piece of flat stock welded in place did the trick.
My snatch block works best with the trip facing down.I've read where others need the trip facing up.
In my continuing quest to work easier I have again upgraded my winch to a fully loaded Krpan 4.5EH that includes wireless remote AND a hydraulic outfeed pulley.I will prepare a review the next time I'm in the woods and try to make a short video.
It is really nice for a soon to be 73 year shoulder to pull cable uphill in snow with no resistance.
Hence the reason for my other winch being for sale below.
Best to all.

[g_man]

If you got your welder out to work on your snatch block here is something else you can do. I copied it from the way Igland blocks are set up. Put a shackle with a Pinocchio nose on it. It allows me to set the strap on the tree w/o dealing with the 12 lb weight of the snatch block. Once I have the strap set where I want it I get the snatch block, slip the strap thru the shackle and over the nose - done, that quick and easy. I drilled the shackle holes out to 5/8" so I could use the bolt or a pin.



 



 

Sounds like a real nice winch 47. Your review should be interesting I will be looking for it !!

gg

[dustintheblood]

If you got your welder out to work on your snatch block here is something else you can do. I copied it from the way Igland blocks are set up. Put a shackle with a Pinocchio nose on it. It allows me to set the strap on the tree w/o dealing with the 12 lb weight of the snatch block. Once I have the strap set where I want it I get the snatch block, slip the strap thru the shackle and over the nose - done, that quick and easy. I drilled the shackle holes out to 5/8" so I could use the bolt or a pin.



 



 

Sounds like a real nice winch 47. Your review should be interesting I will be looking for it !!

gg

I'm running for the welder right now!  Great idea!
Also running for the welder since my main drive roller chain on the Igland blew apart for the second time this winter.  It took some chunk-o-summin' out apparently cause I found some flat iron shrapnel on the ground.  
8" snow is started here, but I was out and about by 6am this morning, so got more than a few hitches in before it happened.  

I gotta get food, a rest and ready to plow tonight

[47sawdust]

g man,
Thanks for the idea of modifying the snatch block.I found some things hanging on the barn and put this together.I will put it to work tomorrow.



 
 

Weldment to keep cable from jamming.

 
 
I really appreciate this forum and the collective knowledge that is shared here.

Best regards,
Mick