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timber harvester 36htd25 transport...how?

Started by climber2, November 28, 2015, 05:18:42 PM

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climber2

So I'm in another state to look at a used TH mill and I'm interested but can't figure out how to transport...the loader only comes up halfway then hits the rails.
Any pointers on this andgeneral transport precautions is needed, please help!
There is no owner manual...
Timber Harvester 36htd25, 06 Ram 2500 5.9, 95 Chev 3500hd, 445ct Bobcat w/ Wallenstein winch, Bandit 200+, Morbark M12r, Countless chainsaws...

york

Well,the head has two plates that flip up,then 4 3/8th bolts go thru base of head-loader arms flip up,if not,there is something wrong-you may have to remove them and strap down to the track way.....
Albert

warren46

When I moved my Timber Harvester mill there were two 5+/- foot long by 1/2 inch rods that held the log loader up.  I do not remember the exact details and am not near the mill to check it out.  I will try and get some pictures on Monday if that will help.

Once you get the mill home you will have a well designed and stout mill.  Congratulations.

Where in Northern Wisconsin are you?  I grew up halfway between Siren and Grantsburg Wisconsin.  I have moved to warmer climes and not live in North Carolina.  I do have fond memories of the long winters of the north.

PM me if you have and questions about the mill that I can answer.
Warren E. Johnson
Timber Harvester 36HTE25, John Deere 300b backhoe/loader.

Dewey

If you have to lift them by hand and chain them up for transport....
you will have to leave the Loader arms in the down position.
They don't flip all the way over...

climber2

Quote from: Dewey on November 28, 2015, 06:50:27 PM
If you have to lift them by hand and chain them up for transport....
you will have to leave the Loader arms in the down position.
They don't flip all the way over...
OK...I stared at them for about a half hour and thought either they get unbolted or what you said, chained up somehow.
How do you transport yours Dewey? It is essential to my needs - I plan on milling site to site for hire
Timber Harvester 36htd25, 06 Ram 2500 5.9, 95 Chev 3500hd, 445ct Bobcat w/ Wallenstein winch, Bandit 200+, Morbark M12r, Countless chainsaws...

Brad_S.

On my 36HTD25, you first park the head over the axle and bolt it down with the plates that flip up and align with drilled holes on the saw head. Note that the head needs to be all the way down. You then raise the loader as high as you can with the loader feet still on the ground then chain the raised arms to the head using the chain holder (key hole shaped) welded on the saw head about eye level. You then hit the hydraulic loader lever as though you were lowering the loader but since it is chained, the feet will raise up. Once they are maxed, as mentioned, there were two long rods that slid through holes in the feet and had a bend at the end Tha slid through holes at the end of a couple of the log bunks.
On the smaller mills, as mentioned, you manually lifted the arm and feet together but on the bigger mill like you have it is brutally heavy.
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." J. Lennon

Brad_S.

It's been a while since I moved my mill so more thoughts popped into my head that I should relay.
The chain TH provided was short and light weight. One end had nothing attached, the other had a "z" shaped hook that went THROUGH the links, not around them like a normal clevis. The chain holder may not be keyhole shaped, it may be merely a slot. The end without the hook gets put in that, the chain wraps around the bar that connects the two lift arms. Usually a push on the bar is needed to be able to double the chain back on itself as far as possible and the hook the hook through a link as close to the head as possible.

The securing rods have fixed nuts on one end and wing its on the bent end. Slid the bent end trough the hole in the feet by holding the parallel to the bed then follow the bend around and push the rod through securing it in the hole in the bunk with the wing nut. No tools are needed to do any of this. Once you have the rods in place, take the weight off the chain and let the rods carry it.

One of the rods is straight, the other has a kink in it, that's because one bunk will line up with the hole in the foot but the other has the kink to move the rod over a bit to catch a bunk not quite aligned to the other foot. IIRC, straight is toward the hitch end, kinked is toward to back end.

You will need magnetic lights one the rear and a wiring extension to be able to get the far enough. I ran the wires through the frame channel and out the rearmost hole when I was doing portable milling rather than having to run wires every time I moved.

Hope this was clear enough to be helpful. It really is quick and easy to do once you know how.

BTW, I am posting this from my phone and auto correct is killing me so please forgive any strange words or sentence structure!
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." J. Lennon

climber2

Thanks folks... Headed home with my first mill. Your pointers are, and likely will continue to be, very helpful. Its always nice when people still find time to help...
Timber Harvester 36htd25, 06 Ram 2500 5.9, 95 Chev 3500hd, 445ct Bobcat w/ Wallenstein winch, Bandit 200+, Morbark M12r, Countless chainsaws...

ladylake

 

Congrads , sounds like a real good mill and off the shelf parts are nice. On my TK about the only thing that isn't off the shelf is the setworks, sure saves a lot of money on parts.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

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