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Safety tips please

Started by outpost22, November 20, 2015, 02:57:08 PM

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outpost22

New guy here. I am just setting up my mill and would like input firstly on your safety tips. I have used Alaskan Mills, but now I have a band saw mill.  It is locally made here in Oregon and I was able to buy it used from my neighbor. Construction is all heavy gauge steel with a 30' total track length. I still have some more set up to do.
I was hoping those with experience can either link some good info or tell me what you consider good procedural safety items you focus on.  I have a lot of construction experience and chainsaw experience as well. This, however, is a new ballgame with some similarities to other heavy work.  Thanks in advance



Creating one more project one at a time.
Burg Bandsaw Mill
Stihl 010
Stihl 210
Stihl 251
Stihl 461
Husky 350
Kubota L3800

Ianab

Small band mills like that are pretty safe to operate, just keep away from the sharp bits when they are moving. Don't get in the way of the sawdust chute either. If a band breaks chunks of sharp metal can get thrown out there at speed.

More hazardous is probably log moving and handling, and tripping up on debris round the mill.

A lot of it is common sense, like not getting in front of a rolling log, or behind one you are rolling up a ramp. Not jamming fingers under a cant as you flip it on the mill, and keeping the work area tidy so you don't trip on rubbish and turn an ankle etc. Most of those things aren't life threatening, but will put a damper on your day.  :'(
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

terrifictimbersllc

Hard toe boots, and safety glasses when the band is running.

Another consideration is making sure observers and helpers don't get injured.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

Delawhere Jack

Welcome to the FF  Outpost22.

Band mills are probably 10x safer than running a chainsaw. Always were gloves and eye protection when changing bands. Long sleeves and pants highly recommended. Even a dull band is sharp enough bite you. Hearing and eye protection while running the mill. You really should were a dust mask, though I admit I usually don't.

The single largest danger I see is log handling. Two things I always tell clients at the start of a job are:

1) If the log starts rolling downhill, get out of the way!
2) Never use your leg/foot to brace a log. A big log will snap bones and not feel the least bit guilty about it.




bkaimwood

Good advice deleware jack...the only thing I disagree with is that a chainsaw is probably 50x's as dangerous as a band mill, not 10 :). Like stated, most accidents happen when doing everything but sawing...clean work areas, safe log and material handling, and so on is priority...
bk

Nomad

     The guys above nailed it.  If you're using common sense the mill won't hurt you.  If it looks scary, stay away from it. 
     Logs, on the other hand, are a different story.  They're heavy, and they only obey one law.  That's gravity.  They  don't have a conscience either.  They really don't give a DanG whether they hurt you or not.
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
WoodMizer LT50HDD51-WR
Lucas DSM23-19

outpost22

Thanks fellows.  I agree log handling is always a concern. I'm lucky that I'm able to move the logs to and onto the machine with equipment.  I have both pallet forks on my tractor and also a grapple bucket. After that, I'm in manual mode after the logs are on the mill.   
I do wear gloves, eye and hearing protection when running all equipment.  Ditto on long denim pants and boots.   I'm glad to hear there is not too many sinister quirks to this thing  ;)
Creating one more project one at a time.
Burg Bandsaw Mill
Stihl 010
Stihl 210
Stihl 251
Stihl 461
Husky 350
Kubota L3800

bkaimwood

Just don't let the ease and confidence of heavy equipment minimize safety concerns of moving big stuff...all that means is that when poop happens, and things go wrong, the outcome can be much more devastating... Big equipment can cause false confidence... We are all foolish at one point or another...
bk

Delawhere Jack

Quote from: bkaimwood on November 20, 2015, 07:02:05 PM
Good advice deleware jack...the only thing I disagree with is that a chainsaw is probably 50x's as dangerous as a band mill, not 10 :). Like stated, most accidents happen when doing everything but sawing...clean work areas, safe log and material handling, and so on is priority...

I was going to say 1,000x's safer, but people might think I was exaggerating it a bit.  ;)

I like your alternate spelling of Delaware too.  ;D

Larry

Other members have already given good tips on the big hazards.  I give you a few more things to watch out for.

When you see a log end with a ragged end or over cut trim it up or at the least break off the over cut.  When a band cuts through the little piece it can throw it with a lot of force causing either equipment breakage or personal injury.

Wear breathing protection.  Most of us old farts can tell you why.

Just plain quit when you get tired.

When somebody approaches my mill I shut down.  Gives me time to visit, but most important I can tell them I never want to see them on the discharge side of the mill.  Broke bands try to exit the chute on that side.

Gravity is your enemy.  Use roller tables to take out the heavy lifting.

I'll think of a few more about time I hit the post button.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

WV Sawmiller

   Well covered but watch the log handling. Cant hooks will kick back and hurt.

   I keep a fire extinguisher at the head of my mill and make sure anyone working around me know where it is. I wear gloves all the time (Helps with splinters and doesn't hurt as bad when I do something dumb and mash a finger). Hearing protection when the mill is running (I've lost enough hearing already). I never leave a band on the mill overnight or when I am not present. I see your mill is stationary but chocking wheels on mobile mills (and vehicles) is a good idea. Stay away from pinch points. Mentioned before but practice lifting safety to include sliding or rolling vs lifting where you can.

    Watch the stacking height of your logs. I'd say 3 or less (2 is better, single level is best). I am working on a client stack 5-6 high and have to be real careful when I roll one off. Keep the area clean, sticks and bark just grow around the mill creating trip hazards. Sawdust gets in everything so a leafblower works great to blow it out often.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

beenthere

OP
QuoteI'm glad to hear there is not too many sinister quirks to this thing

Oh contrare... you WILL find sinister quirks abound... I'm thinkin.   ;D  But don't let that scare you any.
If none are found, then all the better.   8)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

YellowHammer

Don't let anyone stand directly off to the side of the sawdust discharge chute, sometime the band will break and get thrown out.  Some mills have band catchers, not sure if your does or not. 

Do not talk and saw at the same time.  Sawmills are not places to have a conversation.  If someone want to talk move away from the mill.

I never let my off bearers, or anyone else for that matter, stand on the tooth side of the mill when I'm sawing.  All it takes is a little slip, and they are in the teeth. 

Be careful unfolding bands, don't let them bite you.

Wear safety glasses.  Anytime I don't, by the end of the day I'll have sawdust in my eyes and swear I'll never do that again.
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

Woodey

Welcome to the Forestry Forum outpost22!

Good safety advise has been given!
Did you get a manual? If not, contact the manufacture and get one.
It might have some additional safety information that pertain to your mill.

Happy Sawing
WOODMIZER LT40HDD34CAT w/accuset
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thecfarm

outpost22,welcome to the forum.
I like a log deck to put logs onto. It's just 2 logs,I sawed one side to make it flat.Make it a little higher than the mill,then roll the logs onto the mill with a cantdog or peavey from Logrite,sponsor on the left. This keeps the heavy equipment away from the mill.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Chuck White

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, outpost22!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

bkaimwood

Thanks jack, I'm a good spellur!!!!
bk

outpost22

Well thanks guys!  Some GREAT tips here.  I did not get a manual with this as the previous owner couldn't find it.  I think that's a great idea as I have shop manuals for about everything here that's mechanical. 

What types of tools do you keep on hand near your mill, particularly hand tools. I'm building a tool chest to keep at the mill as it is almost 1/4 mile from my shop and I don't wish to rob shop tools.  Too many tools is better than not enough. I have already gone through the saw head and greased bearings, put on a new V belt, checked bolts, lubricated winch, checked bearing play,  etc. 
I have the basic Cant hook, Peavey as we cut a lot of firewood here. I'm just tired of cutting up really good logs just to burn them. Thus the mill.  This mill is for personal use as we have several needs for lumber on this ranch.

I will be milling Cedar, Ponderosa pine, and Douglas fir.  Even though we have 10,000 oak trees, I don't see milling those...yet. 
Creating one more project one at a time.
Burg Bandsaw Mill
Stihl 010
Stihl 210
Stihl 251
Stihl 461
Husky 350
Kubota L3800

East ky logging

Tape measure chainsaw basic set of wrenches and socket set gas blades screwdriver and a big hammer when nothing else works
They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety- Benjamin Franklin

WV Sawmiller

OP22,

   A wedge with the "big hammer" mentioned above in case/when you have a band get stuck in a log is handy. I mentioned a leafblower earlier. Tools to remove nails and other metal from logs (There are threads about what to keep for this purpose). A handsaw could conceivably be useful for a stuck band too (More precise in most people's hands than a chainsaw). My tool kit includes a blade alignment tool from WM to check the level of the blade. I also have a tension gauge to check the drive belt also from WM (Your mill may have a permanent gauge). Straight edges and a metal ruler. I use a carpenter square frequently too.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

samandothers

Welcome to the forum!   Not sure if these were mentioned; mask for saw dust, calculator, tap measure, level.

Magicman

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, outpost22.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

boscojmb

Hi Outpost,

Two things that have been mentioned earlier; logs rolling off the mill, and broken blades getting caught up or reaching out to HURT SOMEONE.

1.) Logs rolling off the mill. - Keep manual mills as close to the ground as possible. It looks like you have done that. A manual mill perminantly mounted to a trailer is, in my opinion, too tall and inherently dangerous.

2.) Use plywood blade guards. Change your blade guards to plywood, plywood like I did.
Plywood looks hillbilly, but keeps us safe.


John B.

Log-Master LM4

Nomad

     Lots of people use a broken band with a bit of duct tape around it to clean sawdust from behind a stuck band to back it out.  I found that a cheap hand pruning saw from the Big Box Store works better, is easier to use and doesn't cost much.
     A drywall knife is great for cleaning sawdust from boards and cants.  Must faster and cleaner than a broom.
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
WoodMizer LT50HDD51-WR
Lucas DSM23-19

Andries

Quote from: nomad on November 21, 2015, 10:54:37 PM
     Lots of people use a broken band with a bit of duct tape around it to clean sawdust from behind a stuck band to back it out. A drywall knife is great for cleaning sawdust from boards and cants.  Must faster and cleaner than a broom.
My duct tape and broken band went through my gloved hand one day. (as if a broken band mid-log isn't enough to make a guy grumpy) So, I got all arts and crafty and made this up:

Make the blade long 'nuff to reach through your biggest cut possible.
. . . and if nobody is watching, you'll feel like a Ninja Sawyer when you swish it throughout the air.
not that I've ever done that . . .
LT40G25
Ford 545D loader
Stihl chainsaws

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