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cable mod on b 20

Started by sandsawmill14, November 05, 2015, 07:51:47 PM

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sandsawmill14

here is how i did away with the cord real on my timberking b 20

  this 1 shows it coiled up


 


 
these 2 show it extended

  and this one shows the post holding the 1/4 steel cable that it slides on
it doesnt look all that great but does work well and i havent lost connection with the head since we done it ;D when cable wears out i will most likely put a pantagraph on it instead :)
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

Ga Mtn Man

Looks good and, most importantly, reliable.  I think FF member ladylake found a quality cord reel that has worked well for him, if you're ever interested in going that route again.
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

sandsawmill14

i had problems with the wire itself getting pinched :( also so i just decided to put it up out of the way ;D
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

drobertson

Looks good, nothing like reliability when it comes to connections,  looks like you been busy ;D
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

sandsawmill14

thanks that is the way i fixed the hudson too but i put hyd up and down on it so it was 2 hoses sliding back and forth instead of a wire. worked fine but i needed the hyd motor for the log turner so i done away with hyd and put a 12 volt winch on it ;D works just as good.  the gearing on the harbor freight 4 wheeler winch is perfect speed comes up fast enough but still slow enough it is no problem to make your set :)

been real busy but finished up this week today was the day we finished the edging that was stacked in the pic a little over 6000 bdft  :o that is just the edging from 2 weeks of cutting ties its amazing how quick it piles up. looks like they would keep it caught up but they never do :-\   got to move this weekend and try to be ready to saw monday. its another big job i will get some pics next week
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

redprospector

Thanks, this answers a lot of questions for me.
I'm going to have a hydraulic motor, a hydraulic cylinder, and an electric clutch on the saw head. I think this system will work good for two 1/2" hoses, two 3/8" hoses, and a couple of wires. Thanks for posting this, and hopefully you can get that video up.  ;D
1996 Timber King B-20 with 14' extension, Morgan Mini Scragg Mill, Fastline Band Scragg Mill (project), 1973 JD 440-b skidder, 2008 Bobcat T-320 with buckets, grapple, auger, Tushogg mulching head, etc., 2006 Fecon FTX-90L with Bull Hog 74SS head, 1994 Vermeer 1250 BC Chipper. A bunch of chainsaws.

sandsawmill14

red what are you going to use for up  and down ? hyd motor or cylinder?   ??? most likely you can use 1/4 inch hose for the guide with a 2" cylinder and 3/8 will run a bigger than you need hyd motor or any hyd cylinder.  you want  to use as small of hoses as you can for 2 reasons 1 is price but the most important one weight you can expect that cable to sag quite a bit  with that many hoses. you can use a fairlead or something mounted off the back sawhead for the cable to run through to help with the sagging and will also push the hoses back so they stay where you want them instead of the head passing them and causing them to tangle and get in the way. also when you get them up on the cable you will want to strap them all together so they move as 1  :)
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

redprospector

Yeah, I may have to downsize the hoses. I have a tendency to use sizes that won't restrict the flow, but this is probably going to have to be a compromise.
I'm currently using a Char-Linn motor on the up and down coupled to a worm drive. I don't remember the # on the motor, but it's got 1/2" pipe fittings.
The guide will be a 1 1/2" cylinder (I think), so a 1/4" will definitely work on that.
The current drive is a Char-Linn motor on the carriage with a cable. I intend to change that to a dual chain drive from the end of the mill.
Putting the cable through a pulley on the back of the carriage is something I had considered, but hadn't convinced myself I needed. Thanks for the advice and pictures, I can see that it is needed. You saved me a "do over".  ;D
1996 Timber King B-20 with 14' extension, Morgan Mini Scragg Mill, Fastline Band Scragg Mill (project), 1973 JD 440-b skidder, 2008 Bobcat T-320 with buckets, grapple, auger, Tushogg mulching head, etc., 2006 Fecon FTX-90L with Bull Hog 74SS head, 1994 Vermeer 1250 BC Chipper. A bunch of chainsaws.

coppolajc10

Sandsawmill,nice idea and thanks for posting!  One to remember for sure.  I followed ladylake's advice and bought a better real off eBay, no problems since then.  This will definitely be considered an option in the future.

sandsawmill14

the reason i went this way is because of the size logs i normally saw. i will saw through the log and the slab might be 6-8" thick with the head already as high as it will go so you have to push the slab of with the head at far end of track and the cable reel extended. we push the slabs off on the log loader to resaw when we finish with the logs and a couple of times the slab would get away from us and cut the wire so when i started having trouble with the cord reel i decided to just do away with it and solve all the problem at once ;D. these slabs are big enough that i will saw 2 7x9 rr tie out of some of them so they are hard to control when they start off the log and you certainly dont want to take them off the back to bring them back to try and resaw. i dont think the cord reel is a bad design it just didnt work for me

 
that is a 441 mag with 28" bar


  

 
these are a few of the logs. on this job i have sawn nothing under 24" and several are over 40"
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

coppolajc10

I get mad when I hit the cord with a 1x flitch, but it's never been enough to damage it. Make sense to why you went that route, thanks for explaining.  I had bad luck with factory reel, that's why it was replaced.  Kinda off topic, but what do you use for wheel scrapers?  I would like to find something I can make scrapers out of.  Thanks.

sandsawmill14

if your talking the band wheels i dont use any.if your talking about the ones that roll on the track that carry the head they are factory. i bought some paint brushes to put on to help keep dust off but havent had a chance to put them on yet :-\
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

Tom the Sawyer

sandsawmil14,

I have hit the cord with a slab a few times on my mill and haven't damaged the cord but I have damaged it when gigging back too quickly on a cold day and pinching the cord.  Some members have eliminated the cord completely, adding a "garage door opener" circuit board and battery-powered remote.  I used a 4 channel board, 2 for up/down and the other two would have been used for throttle up/down - didn't get that far.

I tried it on mine and, when it was working, it was sweet.  Gig back as fast as it will go and no cord to damage.  No cord reel contacts to clean, etc.  Unfortunately, I couldn't depend on it and, when working for clients, it has to work every time without fail. 

I freely admit that my electronics skills are lacking and I am sure that if I tinkered with it long enough I could get it to work (or if I could get someone to come by who knew what they were doing) but the great majority of my work is for clients (downtime is $ lost).  Search "wireless B-20" for details.
07 TK B-20, Custom log arch, 20' trailer w/log loading arch, F350 flatbed dually dump.  Piggy-back forklift.  LS tractor w/FEL, Bobcat S250 w/grapple, Stihl 025C 16", Husky 372XP 24/30" bars, Grizzly 20" planer, Nyle L200M DH kiln.
If you call and my wife says, "He's sawin logs", I ain't snoring.

sandsawmill14

ok thanks tom i will check it out :)  im not big on wireless stuff in general because i have never had any that were reliable but that doesnt mean im not open to trying it but i would still hard wire it so if it quit i could still saw. the winch i put on the hudson mill for the head up and down is remote operated but i still hard wired buttons on the head itself so if it failed i could still run so far it has only failed 2 times but i have only sawn about 5000 bdft since installed it. the hudson is the mill i keep at home and is only used when my bigger mills are on a job so it sees very little use :)
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

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