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Has anyone modified their CatClaw?

Started by kelLOGg, October 29, 2015, 07:32:51 AM

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bandmiller2

I find the inside teeth seem to loose set more than the outside, probably why most often bands want to dive. How large is your grinding wheel/rock I think they tend to favor one side when worn down small. That's about all I know on that problem. Try running the band around once more and see if it removes the dull corners, if so insufficient grinding. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Chuck White

Make sure that the "grind rock" is squared up with the blade.  :P

Other than that, send the blade around the second time!  ;)
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

4x4American

I usually do a minimum of 2 rotations...I've set the thing up and went outside and did stuff and come back in to see what effect the grinder has had on the blade..don't do that much anymore.  I will do other things in the shop and listen to the sounds it's making.  I do also notice that every so often it will just destroy a tooth or three and then go bak to being perfect.  I thought it might have something to do with a band being stretched (I run 3k lbs tension on it) and another thing I've thought it might could be is the clamp too loose, but I keep that thing so tight nowadays that I have to loosen the clamp before I can take the clamp down.
Boy, back in my day..

Banjo picker

4 x 4    I have a question.  Are you adjusting the sharpener in mid cycle or do you set it and then let it make a complete loop?  Banjo
Never explain, your friends don't need it, and your enemies won't believe you any way.

4x4American

Boy, back in my day..

Chuck White

Quote from: 4x4American on November 03, 2015, 09:10:41 PM
I tweak it as it's going.

I believe that's the thing that Banjo was eluding to!

It's hard sometimes not to do that, but if you want the blade to be "even" all the way around, you have to start it, then leave it alone for the whole cycle.

I used to do that, and wondered why the grind would become uneven, then it would be OK again, then I STOPPED adjusting as it was grinding!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

customsawyer

If you are tweaking in the middle of the pass it will only get worse each time you sharpen that blade.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

4x4American

Doesn't the grind wear rock as it goes around though?  I feel like the finger adjustment moves also...but aye aye capn I'll try it and see how it goes.  sail_smiley
Boy, back in my day..

Chuck White

Quote from: 4x4American on November 04, 2015, 06:46:49 AM
Doesn't the grind wear rock as it goes around though?  I feel like the finger adjustment moves also...but aye aye capn I'll try it and see how it goes.  sail_smiley

If you think the adjustments are actually moving, mark your adjusters so you'll be able to see.
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

4x4American

Boy, back in my day..

Banjo picker

It took me a while to learn to let it alone as well.  Just give it a try.  Banjo
Never explain, your friends don't need it, and your enemies won't believe you any way.

4x4American

Thanks will do, will free me up to do other things!
Boy, back in my day..

4x4American

So once you get it started you're saying you don't touch it at all even if you let it go another round?
Boy, back in my day..

YellowHammer

Quote from: 4x4American on November 04, 2015, 10:00:04 PM
So once you get it started you're saying you don't touch it at all even if you let it go another round?
Yes, set it and forget it, and let it go fully around without adjusting anything.  It helps to mark the start tooth, just for reference, but you can hear it pretty easy, too. I can normally get all adjustments complete in about two teeth, running on 4, never letting it stop, then let it come around again.  Seems it take me normally 2 sharpening passes, then one light polish pass to get a nice sharpen. 
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

sandsawmill14

yellowhammer when i try to let mine go the 2nd round if i dont adjust the rod that pushes blade it will grind the tip of the tooth off  or am i not understanding what you are saying ???
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

Banjo picker

After it has made one complete pass, you will need to slightly readjust before letting it make another pass is needed.  4x4 after you get it set and grinding, if you are working on a band that you have adjusted in mid stream before it may be that there will be an area of the band somewhere that won't get hit at all or at least very little.  That is when you may have to uses several complete passes to get the band back uniform.  but as sandsawmill14 said , after the first pass it will start to ruin the teeth if you don't slightly readjust it.  Hope this helps.  Banjo
Never explain, your friends don't need it, and your enemies won't believe you any way.

YellowHammer

Quote from: sandsawmill14 on November 04, 2015, 10:51:13 PM
yellowhammer when i try to let mine go the 2nd round if i dont adjust the rod that pushes blade it will grind the tip of the tooth off  or am i not understanding what you are saying ???
It must be adjusted every trip around.  I'll make two sharpening adjustments and passes, and then one polishing or very light adjustment pass.
Just avoid the urge to adjust it in the middle of a pass.
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

sandsawmill14

ok thanks guys  i thought i may have had some thing set wrong as i am new to sharpening im getting better though now at least 1/2 of them will saw straight :D :D :-\ :-[
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

4x4American

I have been pleased with the way they are cutting, but just the inside set teeth give me trouble on the corner of that tip.  But yea after a revolution I need to tweak it a bit.
Boy, back in my day..

YellowHammer

Quote from: 4x4American on November 04, 2015, 11:16:55 PM
I have been pleased with the way they are cutting, but just the inside set teeth give me trouble on the corner of that tip.  But yea after a revolution I need to tweak it a bit.
Does it appear that the rock may not be square, so is not cutting deep enough on the inside set teeth?  Or are the inside teeth just worn down more than the outside teeth?

Quote from: 4x4American on November 04, 2015, 06:46:49 AM
Doesn't the grind wear rock as it goes around though?  I feel like the finger adjustment moves also...but aye aye capn I'll try it and see how it goes.  sail_smiley

If the finger adjustment moves, you may need to tighten up the setscrew on the barrel nut. 

The grind rock shape should stay fairly stable, occasionally it will need to be profiled, but not for many bands.  I prefer the red rocks to the blue, they will hold their shape for a long while. 

Don't forget to grease the shaft bearings, or you'll get to to replace them.  Been there done that. 

I put a timer on my sharpener, that way I don't have to hover over it when it comes around, it will shut itself off rather than just keep grinding.  That lets me work on other things while I'm sharpening and not have to drop what I'm doing and come running over to adjust.
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

customsawyer

The grind rock will wear a bit this is why I do a very light dressing of the stone between each blade. This also keeps my stone clean and gives me a little cooler grind.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

kelLOGg

I can now post pics. Below is one showing the deep grinds in an old band to make the angle measurements easier.


 

Below you can see one of the spacers I put under the band to raise it. The tooth is a 4° angle. You can see the descent angle of the motor/grind rock assembly is not parallel to the flat face of the grind rock. (4 x4, is this what you referred to as not being square??) I  have not yet adjusted the shim thickness under the pillow blocks.


 

Below you can see the new holes for 6° and 4° angles. I had to redrill the "L" shaped clamp so the motor could be pivoted.


 
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Cutting Edge

Quote from: kelLOGg on November 05, 2015, 08:46:59 AM

I  have not yet adjusted the shim thickness under the pillow blocks.

https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13036/P1020074.JPG



You do not want to remove shims to adjust the angle of the stone.  The shims are in there so the stone does not get abnormal wear.  Without the shims, the ENTIRE left hand portion of the stone will make contact with the whole entire face of the tooth as it comes down.  Very quickly, the "side" portion of the stone will begin to wear in an ever so slight taper and will subtly reduce the hook angle further.

Also, by having such a large contact area as the side of the stone stone comes down the face, heat transfer to the blade body itself significantly increases... ie: blued teeth.

The base that the pillow blocks mount to is what controls the chosen angle... that is also the plane of travel for the arbor.  You could have the arbor/stone shimmed to where you measure a 45 deg angle , but the plane of travel is still at 86 degrees (for a 4 deg face). 

Hope this makes sense

"Winning an argument isn't everything, as long as you are heard and understood" - W.S.


Cutting Edge Saw Service, LLC -
- Sharpening Services
- Portable/Custom Milling and Slabbing
- On-Site Sawmill Maintenance/Repair Services

Factory Direct Kasco WoodMaxx Blades
Ph- (304) 878-3343

kelLOGg

I hadn't thought of the side of the stone grinding the tooth face. You point out the effect of that very well. I haven't adjusted it yet so I will leave it as is. Thanks,
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

deadfall

Great information, CE.  Thanks for that explanation. 

I like the mod, kelLOGg.  Thank you too. When I eventually buy a sharpener, I would like having such options.
W-M LT40HD -- Siding Attachment -- Lathe-Mizer -- Ancient PTO Buzz Saw

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