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Has anyone modified their CatClaw?

Started by kelLOGg, October 29, 2015, 07:32:51 AM

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kelLOGg

to a 4 degree tooth angle? My 2002 model has 8, 10, 12 and 15 degree stamped on it and I would like to modify it. I have always used 10 degree, but for my next logs I am going to start using 8. I don't think the range of motion of my model will go much lower than 8 but without a way to measure the angle in such a tight space I can't be sure. Has anyone done this?
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

barbender

I just go past the 8° index hole and clamp it down for 7°. Someday I may get serious and drill and tap some holes ::)
Too many irons in the fire

Chuck White

I normally sharpen at 10° and if I'm going to get into a little hardwood I keep 2 blades sharpened at 8°.

If you are thinking of trying for 4°, you may even have to move the pivot point and not just the tilt of the grind motor.
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

4x4American

Yes I did I drilled and tapped for 4° and 7°.  I'll have to go take a video of how I measured it to explain better, but pretty much I just eyeballed it up, the rock to the blade, and then clamped, drilled, and tapped.  Once you change the degree you have to square the rock to the grinder, cause it will move outta square.
Boy, back in my day..

kelLOGg

Quote from: 4x4American on October 29, 2015, 12:40:12 PM
Once you change the degree you have to square the rock to the grinder, cause it will move outta square.

I didn't understand that. The grind rock is mounted to the motor shaft so why would it move out of square? A video would certainly be nice.

To go to 4 deg I would probably have to cut some parts but I wouldn't try to change the pivot point.
Bob

Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

4x4American

I don't understand why it does either, but whenever you change the degree you should always check the rock for square.  They wouldn't give you a squaring tool if it always stayed square!  I didn't change the pivot point, just where the stops are at.  Had to drill a new slot for that clamp type unit to so that the head would go low enough for 4° grinding.  I found that for 7° it was close enough to just set it on the clamp unit's bolt and then tighten it down. 
Boy, back in my day..

YellowHammer

I have modified mine to do WM 9° and 4°, without any special issues.  The easiest way to set the four degree angle is guess, make a test grind, then use a machinist protractor to measure the angle that was cut in the band and readjust.  The screw in clamp can be used to hold the head at the new angles, or a set of vise grips.  Once the angle is correct and the face angle is exactly right, drill and tap a hole to insert the shoulder bolt that supports the head at the correct angle, no different than than any other angle setting.

If you are trying to exactly duplicate the WM 4° profile and gullet shape, (I did) then it's best to grind a cam to work with the current rock profile, instead of having to reprofile the rock to match the gullet, or profiling another rock just for that angle.  This way the rock is never changed, and the rock remains the same for all the angles.  Once the cam is custom hand ground and right, all you have to do is just simply adjust the angle, switch cams, and start grinding. 

Grinding the cam is not a big deal, it's important to realize that as the cam rotates around, if it's too high, then it drives the rock up.  So it's all about cutting the cam down in the correct spot. I've tried different ways, but he easiest is with a sharpie pen.  Slowly get the cam spinning so it just barely, and I mean barely, grazes the tooth face.  Watch the rock cycle a few times, then watch the cam, and during the rotation, mark the high spot on the cam where the rock comes off the band gullet. Then take a file or grinder and take that high spot off. Repeat about a couple dozen times, never being too aggressive.  In a while, the cam will be perfectly profiled so that the rock always just touches the face and gullet and you now have a custom cam. 
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

4x4American

^^^smarty pants...

I might try and grind my cam that way..
Boy, back in my day..

bandmiller2

Very interesting Hammer, I've thought about it but don't believe minor changes in the gullet amount to much. I use the timberwolf cam and all bands regardless of brand conform to it, after a couple of grindings. I have done the same with Simonds cam and had the same good results, really its sharp and set that carry the mail. One old pharts opinion. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

kelLOGg

Thanks, YM. Your technique for changing the angle sounds straightforward.

Measuring the angle is more of a challenge for me. I have a Starrett #19 protractor but the short height of a tooth doesn't leave much to contact the arm of the protractor limiting my confidence in the measurement. I am thinking about using a broken band in the sharpener, turning the cam off and lowering the grind rock deep into the band to give more height for an angle measurement. Unfortunately, I just recycled 5 broken bands. If I'm lucky maybe I'll break a band this week.

What technique do others use to measure the angle?
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Ga Mtn Man

I use one of these on my home-made grinder:



 
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

ely

I have not modified my cat claw except I did put a piece of tie wire around my depth adjustment to keep it from backing off. I use the 8 degree setting for everything I sharpen... it seems to work well for me.

Ox

I also modified mine to get 7 and 4 degrees and 4x4 already said everything I would have said about it.  I used an inexpensive angle finder with a magnetic base and just took my time.  I measured the platform the motor sets on at 8 degrees to check if it was accurate with my angle finder, found it was, then moved on from there.  Not difficult, just time consuming.  I tend to sharpen mostly at 7 degrees.  Next year when I get into more red pine I'll be trying 4 degrees to see if I can get flatter cuts through the knot rings on these trees.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

bandmiller2

Kellog Bob, give or take a degree is hard to tell. I use an accurate LS Starret protractor head, base on the bottom of the band and with a white background leave a little gap from the front of the tooth to the ruler easy to tell within about half a degree. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

4x4American

I started to take a video today but ran outta memory 20seconds in.  Once I get more memory on my phone I'll do it again.  I can post what I took so far you can kinda get an idea just gimme a little bit
Boy, back in my day..

Magicman

I ran out of memory sometime this morning too.  :o   :D
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

YellowHammer

Quote from: bandmiller2 on October 30, 2015, 07:56:47 AM
Very interesting Hammer, I've thought about it but don't believe minor changes in the gullet amount to much. I use the timberwolf cam and all bands regardless of brand conform to it, after a couple of grindings. I have done the same with Simonds cam and had the same good results, really its sharp and set that carry the mail. One old pharts opinion. Frank C.
Your opinion carries a tremendous amount of experience behind it so it's more like a fact,  :P and I agree that a sharp band with good evenly set teeth are all that's needed and it's hard to tell the difference.

But there's just something magic about a 9° WM band in cherry, and I cut a lot of big cherry... I can feel the difference, even different from an 8°.  Not saying they don't cut well, but that 9° in cherry is special, just like finding another gear in a sports car or using a favorite rod. 

I've read several favorable posts of yours on the Timberwolf bands and cams and I need to give them a try. 
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

fat olde elf

Yellow Hammer: You are absolutely correct about Frank C. I called him just to hear his New England accent.....He speaks with authority..

Kellog: My Cats Claw is older that yours because I bought it on the Sawmill exchange several years after we got our MP 32 mills.  I just clamp it 7 degrees for most sharpening.  My sharpener was marketed by Suffolk but it has all the Cooks labels on it. Love sharpening bands and making sawdust. Happy days............. 
Cook's MP-32 saw, MF-35, Several Husky Saws, Too Many Woodworking Tools, 4 PU's, Kind Wife.

4x4American

So IDK what's up with uploading a video, but I'll describe it best I can.  I just did it by intuition, there's really nothing to it.  The hardest part is figuring out where you want it.  Once you figure out where you want it, pin it.  What I did was put a new, known 7 or 4° blade on the grinder, clamp it, and run it around with the finger until I get the grind rock coming down just a sliver in front of the tooth face.  Make sure rock is square at this point.  Then I rigged up a bright magnetic light behind the rock and watched for the light.  I used a pry bar to move head around.  Kept the 1/2" bolt snug so that it would stay when I pryed it.  Once I got it to where I wanted it I stuck an F clamp on it and double triple checked everything then drilled and tapped a hole for the now stop.  For the 7° angle I found I just took the stop out and let it sit on the clamp.  For 4°  you have to drill/tap a new hole for the clamp because there's not enough clearance, Clarance.  I slid it over a bit and cocked it sideways and that seemed to work for me.  That's how I did it, it doesn't have to be perfect, just close.
Boy, back in my day..

bandmiller2

Thanks guys, Timberwolf sold Cooks cats claw sharpeners for years I have some cams with TW's name on them. don't know if they still work togather. A case in point about cams. My best sharpening customer brought a box of Cooks magnum bands yesterday 1"x.055 he was thrilled with them  very stiff and stable in the cut. He also brought a new cam for them (like I said good customer) that was sent with the bands. I found  the 7/8" timberwolf cam to be a much better fit in fact almost perfect. He was telling me their are two flavors of the magnum bands stiff like he had and a more flexable one for longer flex life. The ones I sharpened seem to hold their set well. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

kelLOGg

Thanks to the replies in this thread I was able to add 4° and 6° to my sharpener. Thanks. guys.  I put an old band in the jaws and elevated it ~3/8" so I could get a deep cut with the grind rock. Then I lowered the motor assembly to the lowest point, fixed it in place and slowly ground into the about 5/8" to 3/4". Such a deep grind gave me more confidence in measuring the resultant tooth angle. This grind gave me an angle of 4° so drilled and tapped it. I then drilled and tapped a hole midway between the 8° and 4°, made another deep grind; it measured 6°. 8)

I can't post pics with the old computer I am using so I will continue later when my computer gets repaired.
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Banjo picker

I haven't done any thing to mine yet, but if I see some pictures..... ;)  Banjo
Never explain, your friends don't need it, and your enemies won't believe you any way.

YellowHammer

Quote from: kelLOGg on November 02, 2015, 05:42:04 PM
Thanks to the replies in this thread I was able to add 4° and 6° to my sharpener. Thanks. guys.  I put an old band in the jaws and elevated it ~3/8" so I could get a deep cut with the grind rock. Then I lowered the motor assembly to the lowest point, fixed it in place and slowly ground into the about 5/8" to 3/4". Such a deep grind gave me more confidence in measuring the resultant tooth angle. This grind gave me an angle of 4° so drilled and tapped it. I then drilled and tapped a hole midway between the 8° and 4°, made another deep grind; it measured 6°. 8)

I can't post pics with the old computer I am using so I will continue later when my computer gets repaired.
Bob
That's great, glad it worked out.  Also remember that a sharp tooth looks like this with a sharp chisel edge, sharp corners, no burn.


Not this, with dull edge, rounded corner, a little tip burn.  Not one of my best attempts.


YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

Nomad

Quote from: YellowHammer on November 02, 2015, 06:33:52 PM
Quote from: kelLOGg on November 02, 2015, 05:42:04 PM
Thanks to the replies in this thread I was able to add 4° and 6° to my sharpener. Thanks. guys.  I put an old band in the jaws and elevated it ~3/8" so I could get a deep cut with the grind rock. Then I lowered the motor assembly to the lowest point, fixed it in place and slowly ground into the about 5/8" to 3/4". Such a deep grind gave me more confidence in measuring the resultant tooth angle. This grind gave me an angle of 4° so drilled and tapped it. I then drilled and tapped a hole midway between the 8° and 4°, made another deep grind; it measured 6°. 8)

I can't post pics with the old computer I am using so I will continue later when my computer gets repaired.
Bob
That's great, glad it worked out.  Also remember that a sharp tooth looks like this with a sharp chisel edge, sharp corners, no burn.


Not this, with dull edge, rounded corner, a little tip burn.  Not one of my best attempts.


     Good pics, YH.  First pic, perfect.  Second pic...  Nah.
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
WoodMizer LT50HDD51-WR
Lucas DSM23-19

4x4American

I have a hard time getting my cat claw to give me a square corner on the inside set teeth.  I can get the other teeth just about perfect.  Any advice?
Boy, back in my day..

bandmiller2

I find the inside teeth seem to loose set more than the outside, probably why most often bands want to dive. How large is your grinding wheel/rock I think they tend to favor one side when worn down small. That's about all I know on that problem. Try running the band around once more and see if it removes the dull corners, if so insufficient grinding. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Chuck White

Make sure that the "grind rock" is squared up with the blade.  :P

Other than that, send the blade around the second time!  ;)
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

4x4American

I usually do a minimum of 2 rotations...I've set the thing up and went outside and did stuff and come back in to see what effect the grinder has had on the blade..don't do that much anymore.  I will do other things in the shop and listen to the sounds it's making.  I do also notice that every so often it will just destroy a tooth or three and then go bak to being perfect.  I thought it might have something to do with a band being stretched (I run 3k lbs tension on it) and another thing I've thought it might could be is the clamp too loose, but I keep that thing so tight nowadays that I have to loosen the clamp before I can take the clamp down.
Boy, back in my day..

Banjo picker

4 x 4    I have a question.  Are you adjusting the sharpener in mid cycle or do you set it and then let it make a complete loop?  Banjo
Never explain, your friends don't need it, and your enemies won't believe you any way.

4x4American

Boy, back in my day..

Chuck White

Quote from: 4x4American on November 03, 2015, 09:10:41 PM
I tweak it as it's going.

I believe that's the thing that Banjo was eluding to!

It's hard sometimes not to do that, but if you want the blade to be "even" all the way around, you have to start it, then leave it alone for the whole cycle.

I used to do that, and wondered why the grind would become uneven, then it would be OK again, then I STOPPED adjusting as it was grinding!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

customsawyer

If you are tweaking in the middle of the pass it will only get worse each time you sharpen that blade.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

4x4American

Doesn't the grind wear rock as it goes around though?  I feel like the finger adjustment moves also...but aye aye capn I'll try it and see how it goes.  sail_smiley
Boy, back in my day..

Chuck White

Quote from: 4x4American on November 04, 2015, 06:46:49 AM
Doesn't the grind wear rock as it goes around though?  I feel like the finger adjustment moves also...but aye aye capn I'll try it and see how it goes.  sail_smiley

If you think the adjustments are actually moving, mark your adjusters so you'll be able to see.
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

4x4American

Boy, back in my day..

Banjo picker

It took me a while to learn to let it alone as well.  Just give it a try.  Banjo
Never explain, your friends don't need it, and your enemies won't believe you any way.

4x4American

Thanks will do, will free me up to do other things!
Boy, back in my day..

4x4American

So once you get it started you're saying you don't touch it at all even if you let it go another round?
Boy, back in my day..

YellowHammer

Quote from: 4x4American on November 04, 2015, 10:00:04 PM
So once you get it started you're saying you don't touch it at all even if you let it go another round?
Yes, set it and forget it, and let it go fully around without adjusting anything.  It helps to mark the start tooth, just for reference, but you can hear it pretty easy, too. I can normally get all adjustments complete in about two teeth, running on 4, never letting it stop, then let it come around again.  Seems it take me normally 2 sharpening passes, then one light polish pass to get a nice sharpen. 
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

sandsawmill14

yellowhammer when i try to let mine go the 2nd round if i dont adjust the rod that pushes blade it will grind the tip of the tooth off  or am i not understanding what you are saying ???
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

Banjo picker

After it has made one complete pass, you will need to slightly readjust before letting it make another pass is needed.  4x4 after you get it set and grinding, if you are working on a band that you have adjusted in mid stream before it may be that there will be an area of the band somewhere that won't get hit at all or at least very little.  That is when you may have to uses several complete passes to get the band back uniform.  but as sandsawmill14 said , after the first pass it will start to ruin the teeth if you don't slightly readjust it.  Hope this helps.  Banjo
Never explain, your friends don't need it, and your enemies won't believe you any way.

YellowHammer

Quote from: sandsawmill14 on November 04, 2015, 10:51:13 PM
yellowhammer when i try to let mine go the 2nd round if i dont adjust the rod that pushes blade it will grind the tip of the tooth off  or am i not understanding what you are saying ???
It must be adjusted every trip around.  I'll make two sharpening adjustments and passes, and then one polishing or very light adjustment pass.
Just avoid the urge to adjust it in the middle of a pass.
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

sandsawmill14

ok thanks guys  i thought i may have had some thing set wrong as i am new to sharpening im getting better though now at least 1/2 of them will saw straight :D :D :-\ :-[
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

4x4American

I have been pleased with the way they are cutting, but just the inside set teeth give me trouble on the corner of that tip.  But yea after a revolution I need to tweak it a bit.
Boy, back in my day..

YellowHammer

Quote from: 4x4American on November 04, 2015, 11:16:55 PM
I have been pleased with the way they are cutting, but just the inside set teeth give me trouble on the corner of that tip.  But yea after a revolution I need to tweak it a bit.
Does it appear that the rock may not be square, so is not cutting deep enough on the inside set teeth?  Or are the inside teeth just worn down more than the outside teeth?

Quote from: 4x4American on November 04, 2015, 06:46:49 AM
Doesn't the grind wear rock as it goes around though?  I feel like the finger adjustment moves also...but aye aye capn I'll try it and see how it goes.  sail_smiley

If the finger adjustment moves, you may need to tighten up the setscrew on the barrel nut. 

The grind rock shape should stay fairly stable, occasionally it will need to be profiled, but not for many bands.  I prefer the red rocks to the blue, they will hold their shape for a long while. 

Don't forget to grease the shaft bearings, or you'll get to to replace them.  Been there done that. 

I put a timer on my sharpener, that way I don't have to hover over it when it comes around, it will shut itself off rather than just keep grinding.  That lets me work on other things while I'm sharpening and not have to drop what I'm doing and come running over to adjust.
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

customsawyer

The grind rock will wear a bit this is why I do a very light dressing of the stone between each blade. This also keeps my stone clean and gives me a little cooler grind.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

kelLOGg

I can now post pics. Below is one showing the deep grinds in an old band to make the angle measurements easier.


 

Below you can see one of the spacers I put under the band to raise it. The tooth is a 4° angle. You can see the descent angle of the motor/grind rock assembly is not parallel to the flat face of the grind rock. (4 x4, is this what you referred to as not being square??) I  have not yet adjusted the shim thickness under the pillow blocks.


 

Below you can see the new holes for 6° and 4° angles. I had to redrill the "L" shaped clamp so the motor could be pivoted.


 
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Cutting Edge

Quote from: kelLOGg on November 05, 2015, 08:46:59 AM

I  have not yet adjusted the shim thickness under the pillow blocks.

https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13036/P1020074.JPG



You do not want to remove shims to adjust the angle of the stone.  The shims are in there so the stone does not get abnormal wear.  Without the shims, the ENTIRE left hand portion of the stone will make contact with the whole entire face of the tooth as it comes down.  Very quickly, the "side" portion of the stone will begin to wear in an ever so slight taper and will subtly reduce the hook angle further.

Also, by having such a large contact area as the side of the stone stone comes down the face, heat transfer to the blade body itself significantly increases... ie: blued teeth.

The base that the pillow blocks mount to is what controls the chosen angle... that is also the plane of travel for the arbor.  You could have the arbor/stone shimmed to where you measure a 45 deg angle , but the plane of travel is still at 86 degrees (for a 4 deg face). 

Hope this makes sense

"Winning an argument isn't everything, as long as you are heard and understood" - W.S.


Cutting Edge Saw Service, LLC -
- Sharpening Services
- Portable/Custom Milling and Slabbing
- On-Site Sawmill Maintenance/Repair Services

Factory Direct Kasco WoodMaxx Blades
Ph- (304) 878-3343

kelLOGg

I hadn't thought of the side of the stone grinding the tooth face. You point out the effect of that very well. I haven't adjusted it yet so I will leave it as is. Thanks,
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

deadfall

Great information, CE.  Thanks for that explanation. 

I like the mod, kelLOGg.  Thank you too. When I eventually buy a sharpener, I would like having such options.
W-M LT40HD -- Siding Attachment -- Lathe-Mizer -- Ancient PTO Buzz Saw

============================

Happy for no reason.

Ga Mtn Man

On the CatClaw sharpener, how much (degrees) is the stone tilted from the plane of travel ?
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

kelLOGg

GMM,
In the middle pic of my post #46 the 4° tooth makes an angle of 94° to the back of the band and the face of the grind wheel makes an angle of 102° to the same. So the grind wheel is sloped at 8° more than the tooth. My protractor wouldn't fit very well in the space so there is some "guestimation" in the process but I think it is pretty close.
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

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