iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Last Board Uneven - woodmizer

Started by Woodslabs, October 13, 2015, 11:35:14 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Woodslabs

Hi All,

I have a LT15 wide and have noticed a small issue.  So i will mill a log, once i am close to the clamps i will flip it.  Once i get to the very last board it sometimes does not come out even.  By this i mean that at one end it is 2 inches and the other it is 1 and 7/8 or worse.  I don't think its the rails as the log rests on the supports which are connected to the rails.  I originally thought that there may be a small wave when the blade enters the log but it looks pretty smooth.  Its almost like i need to shim one side a 1/8th after turning the log to get a perfect cut.  Anyone experience this and have any advice?  Since the narrower end is on the far end of the cut i would need to shim the start of the cut 1/8th to get an even cut on the last board?  Also how much do you guys calculate in terms of loss of material due to blade per cut?
check out www.woodslabs.ca

Woodslabs

I found a similar thread.  I will mill tomorrow and see if its tension in the wood moving it up :)
check out www.woodslabs.ca

Brucer

Just what I was about to suggest.

When you flip it, check to see if the cant is sitting flat on all the supports.
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

ladylake

 Plus try and get far end of the cant on a bunk or overhanging just a couple of inches.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Sixacresand

I can't imagine mill alignment causing this.  I'm guessing tension in cant causing it to rise or dip, or a diving or rising dull blade.
"Sometimes you can make more hay with less equipment if you just use your head."  Tom, Forestry Forum.  Tenth year with a LT40 Woodmizer,

DansSawmill

if its tension, try to flip the log every few boards, especially as you get close to center
Dan's Sawmill
Custom Sawing since 94
CNC woodworking too
now with a 98' lt40 super

Woodslabs

Ok so i noticed something today.  After the cut when running the saw back at the far end the blade is 1/8 above the wood and at the cut start end its flush.  How is that possible.  Its like the blade is pulled down or the wood is pulled up....
check out www.woodslabs.ca

drobertson

this sounds like a typical stress reaction to me,  not there but if the previous boards are fine relatively speaking, then its' stress, other wise all the boards would show signs of diving or waving or whatever, 
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

Woodslabs

is there any way to minimize this without rotating the log?

check out www.woodslabs.ca

Woodslabs

One thing i forgot to mention.  So as soon as i turn the log so that it sits flat, i sjin the other side i have a 1/16 or 1/8 size difference.  Can stress happen that early in the cuts?

I usually will skin and mill a log until the blade will hit the breaks on the next pass, i flip it at that point.
check out www.woodslabs.ca

gfadvm

I'll be following this thread trying to learn something. I have had exactly the same experience with my LT15. It seems to only occur when I cut maximum width (24") oak or hickory. That last board will be flat on one side with a taper the last 3-4" on the other.

Percy

I get/got similar issues on my old LT40 and my 12 yearold LT70....havent figured it yet. The best I can come up with is that last cut is only supported by the one bottom board and while  it is nearly finished being cut, very little wood is holding the two boards together and some "unbeknownst to me" force is acting upon them causing the slight deviation. An 8th is nothing to get wigged about but it would be nice to figure it out....
GOLDEN RULE : The guy with the gold, makes the rules.

Jim_Rogers

Quote from: Woodslabs on October 14, 2015, 04:57:30 PM
Ok so i noticed something today.  After the cut when running the saw back at the far end the blade is 1/8 above the wood and at the cut start end its flush.  How is that possible.  Its like the blade is pulled down or the wood is pulled up....

Normally when the blade dives down into the log like what you are describing it is because the blade is dull on one side.
A truly sharp blade should exit the cut level with the top of the cant.

If it drops down, it is dull. If it rise up it is dull on the other side.
With wide cuts it is easy to get a dull blade quickly.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

timberjackrob

sounds like normal stress in the log to me as mention before bout all you can do is turn the cant more often.
208 timberjack, woodmizer lt28,case 455 trackloader with gearmatic winch,massey 4710, ford f250s ford f700

Woodslabs

Ok so i used the blade alignment tool and it is off about 1/8 pointing down.  I tried finding how to adjust the pitch in the awful manual but cant find any info.  I need to pitch the blade up a little.  do i adjust something close to the tensioner leaver or is it by the rollers?
check out www.woodslabs.ca

Magicman

No offense intended, but not understanding the adjustments as outlined in the manual does not make it an "awful manual".   All of the adjustments are outlined in the sequence that they should be done.

The ¼" downward blade deflection should be done first.

Then move to the blade guide vertical tilt adjustment.  Each blade guide has adjustments necessary to properly adjust the blade guides vertical tilt.

Blade guide spacing is next followed by the horizontal tilt adjustment.

Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Woodslabs

Quote from: Magicman on October 14, 2015, 09:59:24 PM
No offense intended, but not understanding the adjustments as outlined in the manual does not make it an "awful manual".   All of the adjustments are outlined in the sequence that they should be done.

The ¼" downward blade deflection should be done first.

Then move to the blade guide vertical tilt adjustment.  Each blade guide has adjustments necessary to properly adjust the blade guides vertical tilt.

Blade guide spacing is next followed by the horizontal tilt adjustment.

I may be looking at the wrong manual.  I cant remember if i got 1 or 2.  I have the Equipment manual and it has a very small section about maintenance only outlining when it needs to be done but not how.
check out www.woodslabs.ca

Magicman

Maybe someone will weigh in that has an LT15 and can point you in the right direction.  Questions are good and you will get the help necessary to get squared away.   smiley_thumbsup

Edit:  @MartyParsons
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Woodslabs

I found an online manual.  So it looks like i can adjust the angle by adjusting the angle of the rollers.  So i need to take the nuts off and adjust the bolts using an alan key.  I would assume i loosen the bottom and tighten the top?

Sorry for the annoying questions.
check out www.woodslabs.ca

Magicman

The only annoying or dumb questions are unasked questions.  :)  Also, if you do not have the adjustments in your manual, it was awful.   :D

Yes to your adjustment question, but a little goes a long way so make slight adjustment and check.  You will get the feel of it. 
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Woodslabs

Quote from: Magicman on October 14, 2015, 10:43:29 PM
The only annoying or dumb questions are unasked questions.  :)  Also, if you do not have the adjustments in your manual, it was awful.   :D

Yes to your adjustment question, but a little goes a long way so make slight adjustment and check.  You will get the feel of it.

Awesome.  I found the adjustment steps online and printed them out.  Will let you guys know how i make out tomorrow and if it fixes my "dog board" problem :)

One more question:  I see you should rotate the  blade wheel belts every 50 hours.  By rotate do they mean flip inside out and reinstall?
check out www.woodslabs.ca

timberjackrob

Quote from: Woodslabs on October 14, 2015, 10:31:54 PM
I found an online manual.  So it looks like i can adjust the angle by adjusting the angle of the rollers.  So i need to take the nuts off and adjust the bolts using an alan key.  I would assume i loosen the bottom and tighten the top?

Sorry for the annoying questions.
yes that should do the trick just looked it up in my manual it is a lt 28 but I think they had same saw head as 15
208 timberjack, woodmizer lt28,case 455 trackloader with gearmatic winch,massey 4710, ford f250s ford f700

MartyParsons

Hello,
   Measure from the blade to the bed rail. Take a marker and document this measurement on that rail and every other rail. I do it at 18" but the number is not important. They should all be the same. There should be 1/16" higher on the idle side. You should use a STEEL ruler not a tape measure. Make sure the ruler is not leaned forward or back. It should be the same place on each bed rail. If this measurement is off then we need to adjust. Follow the manual. Remove the deflection check the blade to bed rail again. Check blade guide arm adjustment then raise the saw head 1/4" above the bed rail. 18 1/4 on the drive side and 18 5/16 on the idle side. Install the blade guide rollers. ( New B-57 belts should be used) adjust the rollers so the blade measurement is 18" on the drive side and 18 1/16 on the idle side. Then check the blade tilt with the blade tool. Adjust so that the measurement is the same front to back. Recheck your 18" and 18 1/6" from the blade to the bed. If this measurement changed remove or install more deflection it needs to be 18" and 18 1/16".   Last thing is to check the pointer on the scale adjust after measuring from the bottom set tooth on the drive side to the bed rail.

Sorry this is a crash course. Ask more questions and I will clarify if needed.

Hope this helps. 

Marty
"A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty." -Winston Churchill

beenthere

Quote from: Woodslabs on October 14, 2015, 09:37:39 PM
Ok so i used the blade alignment tool and it is off about 1/8 pointing down.  I tried finding how to adjust the pitch in the awful manual but cant find any info. I need to pitch the blade up a little.  do i adjust something close to the tensioner leaver or is it by the rollers?

Not sure what you mean by "pitch the blade up a little", but think MartyParsons says to use the blade tilt tool so there is no pitch up or down.  Just flat and same.  Maybe I've misunderstood what you were thinking you needed to do to solve a problem.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

drobertson

Sounds like you are on the right track now, this will be a very valuable learning experience for you.  Pretty sure most folks have dealt with alignments at one time or other, and done some tail chasing ;D  it really is the only way to truly understand your mill.  There will be many more little things that come up along the way in the milling journey.  I say take notes, keep a log book, and above all try to remember some these things you discover and what others have shared. Lots of good help here,
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

Thank You Sponsors!