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newbie chainsaw milling. help!!

Started by Andyp16, October 12, 2015, 10:10:13 PM

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Andyp16

Hello all,

I need a little help with the type of saws I should be considering for milling my own lumber.  I have the granberg 777 chainsaw mill setup.  I purchased a used Stihl 044 magnum from a pawn shop and in the middle of my 1st cut the saw stopped working and some black smoke started to come out.  I had a 24 inch bar running with a regular chain and the log was a 22 inch diameter piece of Indian Rosewood.  I was able to take the saw back and get my money.

With all of that said...I'm only going to use it for maybe a few logs a week and the types of wood I'll milling will be indian rosewood, mesquite, chinese elm, willow acacia, alligator juniper, some oak, and some ash.  Generally no larger than 20 inches in diameter.

I don't have a ton of money for a saw but I know I need it to do the job so any suggestions for different saws...used or new...and any info on where to get a good deal would be greatly appreciated!!!

Gasawyer

Welcome to the forum. For a saw to mill with needs to be atleast in the 70CC range to do what you described. And go ahead and sharpen chain to 10deg it will help. All so at end of a long cut take air hose or blower and blow air around starter assembly for a minute or two (with saw running)to help cool saw down. This will make saw last longer. I do not have much experience with chainsaw milling small logs, used mine on logs to large for woodmizer and for slabbing. My first and only power head has been a 3120husky so far have 350 hours on her slabbing and no issues. At the end of each use blow saw off, check all screws,and clean air filter and prefilter. Good luck!
Woodmizer LT-40hdd super hyd.,Lucas 618,Lucas 823dsm,Alaskian chainsaw mill 6',many chainsaws large and small,NH L555 skidsteer, Int. TD-9,JD500 backhoe, and International grapple truck.

jimdad07

Even doing a few logs a week you want a good sized saw.  90cc+ is about the starting point, especially for any hard woods.  I ran a Dolmar 9010 for a few years with a 28" bar.  It worked well enough but it was still hard on the saw.  You can usually find an older Stihl 066 pretty reasonable. 
Hudson HFE 30 Homesteader bandmill w/28' of track
Couple tractors, a bunch of chainsaws and not enough time to use them.

Andyp16

Thanks Jimdad and Gasawyer!  I'd love to get my hands on a husky 3120...want to sell yours?  Haha!  I've been thinking of a Stihl 066 and haven't been able to find a used one in my neck of the woods...I'm in Arizona.  What's a good price range for a good used 066, 395xp, or  other saws in the same range?  I found a McCulloch 250 on craigslist...80cc....listed for $125.  I was thinking I could probably get it for  $80.  I know parts are hsrd to come by but I figured if I could st least get started with this one then it might afford me a better one real soon...any thoughts?

jimdad07

Those older saws are even better.  They're slower but more torque.  Of she's a runner that's not a bad deal.  I've milled with a few different saws, even an old 045 Stihl.  What they lack in cc's they make up for in grunt.
Hudson HFE 30 Homesteader bandmill w/28' of track
Couple tractors, a bunch of chainsaws and not enough time to use them.

grampt1

Welcome to the forum. I have used my Stihl 046 for milling on and off for years now, sawed about 25 oak trees in the 18 to 24" range over the years and I would say this saw would be about min saw for occasional use.
Good luck

mad murdock

You can get by with a 70cc saw well, if you set it up to mill with Picco chain.  If you are going to mill larger pieces, (dia), and plan on using 3/8" chain, you will want a 80-90cc class saw as a minimum.  The 250 has good torque, and surprisingly, due to it's popularity with the karting crowd, there are lots of parts available for it. 
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

Brad_bb

Get rip chain for sure.  I do believe it is ground to 10 degrees, but don't quote me.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Magicman

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Andyp16,
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Sixacresand

Andyp16, Welcome to the Forum.  Did your chainsaw lock up?  If it didn't it might be repairable.  Check with the chainsaw area of the Forum.
"Sometimes you can make more hay with less equipment if you just use your head."  Tom, Forestry Forum.  Tenth year with a LT40 Woodmizer,

jimdad07

Quote from: Brad_bb on October 14, 2015, 02:05:00 AM
Get rip chain for sure.  I do believe it is ground to 10 degrees, but don't quote me.

You are right.  Top plate is 10*, you can buy a loop of ripping chain for about what you pay for regular chisel chain.  Last time I bought a loop for a 28" bar I think it was 19 cents a drive link. 
Hudson HFE 30 Homesteader bandmill w/28' of track
Couple tractors, a bunch of chainsaws and not enough time to use them.

BUGGUTZ

I run a 77cc saw with a 28 bar. I file to 10 deg. I mostly mill pine and aspen. I built my own mill set up. Works great for me, I get a 22" width. VERY IMPORTANT: care for your saw, let it idle down and cool before you shut it down after each cut. Blow it out often, caked dust in the cooling fins will kill a saw quick. It retains heat.
Everyone has to be somewhere.

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