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Honey locust table top glue up question

Started by OffGrid973, October 11, 2015, 09:33:07 PM

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OffGrid973

 Ok forum, glue-up and moisture level opinions needed.

I have waited a year so far to start this table and after deciding to use biscuits after leveling inside edges together on the jointer, I am still trying to decide the optimal moisture rating.

Living in New Jersey we fluctuate temps drastically so curious if I should bring the slabs inside and wait a few days before checking moisture?  Or is 10% outside moisture today ok to start my glue up?



 
Your Fellow Woodworker,
- Off Grid

Kcwoodbutcher

I glued up a 3 piece honey locust top about three years ago at 12%. It's still in the shop so the MC has varied with the seasons. No problems so far.
My job is to do everything nobody else felt like doing today

jamesamd

The moisture of the wood internally is what matters,I would get a moisture meter and move them inside Your home for a couple of weeks.Then check the MC 6-10% is ideal for a table top and most other fine furniture. Also,seal ALL sides when You finish it equally and You won't get many surprises.
Jim
All that is gold does not glitter,not all those that wander are lost.....

OffGrid973

Thank you guys.  Any particular finish you suggest on the natural edge as this will be my first time with lumber I milled myself from standing to finished product.
Your Fellow Woodworker,
- Off Grid

WDH

Easiest to spray natural edges.  I like Satin Minwax Fast Drying Polyurethane.  It comes in spray cans. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

OffGrid973

Heading to HD now to grab a can for the weekend...Thank you
Your Fellow Woodworker,
- Off Grid

Jemclimber

How is the table coming? Those bookmatched slabs look very nice.
lt15

bkaimwood

I have always wondered...and I am NOT a woodworker, just a sawyer, that also dries...I hear a few woodworkers requesting lumber with MC in the 6-8% range...and I'm wondering why? There are little to no applications that support an atmosphere that supports lumber with that low of MC.... In other words, it leaves at said range, then gains moisture according to its environment... Which is far from that...so why in the first place? I have a couple " high line" customers, that regulate their shp environment to 35% or so...I know this question delves a bit into RH, but at these low numbers, it shouldn't be an issue? Just askin'?, from the guys with the answer...
bk

WDH

In most climate controlled homes, wood will achieve a moisture content of 8 - 10%.  That is why woodworkers want wood in the 8% moisture content range. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

bkaimwood

Thanks WDH...someday I'll make a table or something for myself...
bk

OffGrid973

All planed and joined with biscuits set 1/2inch below top to keep level on glue up.  Just bought 5 extra clamps from HD at 14$ a pop 40inch and they worked well enough.   

Hopefully grit down and start building the base tomorrow evening.

Your Fellow Woodworker,
- Off Grid

WDH

Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

mesquite buckeye

Wood can get down to 5% in the desert. I wouldn't be surprised if it doesn't get close to that in the winter up north with forced air gas heat.
Manage 80 acre tree farm in central Missouri and Mesquite timber and about a gozillion saguaros in Arizona.

Dodgy Loner

I don't get too anal about wood moisture, but the lowest MC I've ever measured inside, in the dead of winter, was 8%. 9-10% is normal for indoors in the humid South. But I don't measure moisture content any more, because it doesn't matter as long as it's Dry Enough. And if you store it properly and wait patiently, it will eventually be Dry Enough. It ain't rocket science.

Nice work on the table top, cwimer. Keep us updated as you make progress!
"There is hardly anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price only are this man's lawful prey." -John Ruskin

Any idiot can write a woodworking blog. Here's mine.

OffGrid973

So I did the first two coats of Mas epoxy (fast hardner) inside with the wood stove to keep it 80 degrees.  The third coat went on but I noticed the tacky feeling wasn't as tacky as after coat one (3 hours later) and now the third coat doesn't pull smooth.

How do I fix?  Wait until tomorrow, sand down with 220 and then run another flood coat?   This epoxy gets expensive QUICK!



Your Fellow Woodworker,
- Off Grid

OffGrid973

Here is first coat to fill cracks


Second coat to help level off


Plan is to marine varnish the top once epoxy is smooth on top and edges.  Here is the test pine table with 3 coats poly, sanded 220 and one coat of Epifanes high gloss varnish from Jamestown Dist...those guys are great for advice on their products but closed now :(



Thanks,
-Chris


Your Fellow Woodworker,
- Off Grid

beenthere

cwimmer
Pic one and two look like the same stage of coats but just shots from opposite ends.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

OffGrid973

Good catch, here is second coat that was almost 100% smooth on top of the initial coat.


Your Fellow Woodworker,
- Off Grid

jamesamd

80 Degrees is too hot to work epoxy or have it self level. High temps accelerate the reaction time.

Jim
All that is gold does not glitter,not all those that wander are lost.....

jamesamd

All that is gold does not glitter,not all those that wander are lost.....

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