bolts-rivets-circlesaw

coxy · October 10, 2015, 08:44:11 PM

is there a g10 bolt if so how do you tell

beenthere · October 10, 2015, 09:15:44 PM

bolt ?? At first I thought rifle bolt, then wood bolts (pulp wood), and then a grade of bolt..

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-cap-screws/=zb9ycv

and a chart
https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/materials-and-grades/bolt-grade-chart.aspx

gspren · October 10, 2015, 09:26:16 PM

The simple way to tell what grade a bolt is would be to count the little hash marks and add 2. No marks = grade 2, 3 marks = grade 5, etc. Normally you wont find anything higher than grade 8 at a hardware store and stainless is not as strong as a grade 8. Higher grade specialty bolts can be had but not easily.

coxy · October 10, 2015, 09:27:21 PM

how do some of you change the carbide teeth on them as in what do you have to take the rivet out and could you post a pic of it please this is on a wood processer thanks

MikeZ · October 10, 2015, 09:38:16 PM

If you really need very hard bolts, might try Cat dealer. The gravel pit I used to work at we a bin of bolts with 8 & 10 lines. HARD suckers!

Magicman · October 10, 2015, 09:55:25 PM

Here you go; Bolt Grade Chart

Brucer · October 10, 2015, 10:09:30 PM

No.

SAE goes up to grade 8. The metric equivalent is 10.9 (which may give the impression that there is a grade 10 bolt.

JB Griffin · October 11, 2015, 12:11:59 AM

A grade 8 bolt is the hardest easily available bolt around, the only thing I know of that is harder is a Cat bolt and they is spendy.

sawguy21 · October 11, 2015, 12:49:56 PM

What is the application? I am wondering what you are doing to fail a grade 8.

gspren · October 11, 2015, 01:39:32 PM

Hardness is not the same as strength, a track bolt may be extra hard to prevent wear but not have the tensile strength of a quality heat treated GR8.

coxy · October 11, 2015, 02:26:58 PM

Quote from: sawguy21 on October 11, 2015, 12:49:56 PM
What is the application? I am wondering what you are doing to fail a grade 8.

trying to make a rivet pusher for a circle saw blade to get the teeth out a gr8 bolt when turned down to the size of the rivet bends making it walk side ways thought a gr10 would be better

21incher · October 11, 2015, 06:30:47 PM

How about if you put a countersink in the end of your grade 8 plunger and used a hardened ball bearing ball to do the pushing.

Stuart Caruk · October 11, 2015, 07:40:07 PM

The problem is that you are turning the bolt down. If it's a manual lathe you're using, you're likely getting hot enough to take the heat treat out of the material, making it softer.

You would be far better off using a hunk of accraloy, 4140, 8620 or such and machining the pin (as short as possible to do the job). Heating it cherry red and dropping it in some used motor oil.

Hard is all relative also. As you go harder, you will get brittler and then while you won't bend as easily the pusher will shatter and send shards all over the place... bending is sometimes a good thing.

If you were local I'd tell you to swing by and grab soem stock. I've got literally tons of remnants kicking around that would work.

Larry · October 11, 2015, 09:01:15 PM

Grade 8 isn't all that hard. I've turned them in my lathe using HSS tooling if that tells you anything. I keep O-1 drill rod on hand in most diameters up to 1" for just those kind of things. O-1 is easy to work and harden. Heat to cherry red and quench in canola oil. Temper in a toaster oven. One hour at 400 degrees would work. If not tempered it will crack.

You can get it online from Enco. If not in a hurry sign up for there email and wait for a free shipping day with no minimum.

coxy · October 12, 2015, 05:44:47 AM

Quote from: 21incher on October 11, 2015, 06:30:47 PM
How about if you put a countersink in the end of your grade 8 plunger and used a hardened ball bearing ball to do the pushing.

how could I keep the ball from falling out thanks for the help guys

coxy · October 12, 2015, 06:15:09 AM

how do some of you remove the rivets that hold the teeth on a circle saw blade any pics of the tool would be great to thanks

North River Energy · October 12, 2015, 07:39:39 AM

^
Rather than a ball bearing, try the shank end of a worn out HSS drill bit. Glue it in with super glue or Loctite/Permatex bearing sleeve retainer (the Green Magic).

bandmiller2 · October 12, 2015, 07:59:23 AM

Coxy, I don't think I've ever seen teeth held in by rivets, I have seen saws with friction fit cylinders holding teeth in. Could you show us a picture of the saw and teeth in question.?? Most rivets can be punched out if the piece is supported well. Frank C.

beenthere · October 12, 2015, 09:19:23 AM

Maybe use this tool to do that.

http://www.simondsint.com/circularsaws/Pages/Items/30326.aspx

beenthere · October 12, 2015, 09:40:46 AM

Frank C.
I think coxy might be asking about a saw similar to this one.

http://www.simondsint.com/circularsaws/Pages/Items/ITCO-Firewood-Processor-Saw.aspx

coxy · October 12, 2015, 06:46:00 PM

yes it is a 40in blade on a wood processer with 30 teeth thanks beenthere

21incher · October 12, 2015, 06:56:12 PM

Quote from: coxy on October 12, 2015, 05:44:47 AM
Quote from: 21incher on October 11, 2015, 06:30:47 PM
How about if you put a countersink in the end of your grade 8 plunger and used a hardened ball bearing ball to do the pushing.
how could I keep the ball from falling out thanks for the help guys

I would turn the punch and then select a slightly smaller bearing. Drill a hole the size of the bearing a little over 1/2 the diameter of the bearing deep. Insert the ball and swage it in place. The drill piont will take all the pressure. Sometimes a 1 point contact will alliow the punch to spin instead of adding a side load that will cause it to deform..