Bar slot buildup?

[HiTech]

I have seen many who use a chainsaw complain about the slot or grove in the bar where the drivers run filling in with sawdust and debris. They use a special tool to clean it out. I have never experienced this. I always keep my chain snug. I notice many will have the chain hanging a half inch from the bar when stopped. Will a lose chain cause this?

[sawguy21]

No. The chain is loose from expansion due to heat. If you tighten it in this condition it won't turn once it cools. A bar groove cleaner is easy to make, grind a hook into the end of a short strip of aluminum or mild steel. A flat blade carburetor screwdriver works too.

[HolmenTree]

Yes  improperly tensioned chains can lead to poor self cleaning of the bar as wear on the chain's drive links changes their hook shape to a rounded off tip that no longer properly scoops the chips and sawdust out of the bar rail kerf.
Running a chain on a badly worn out rim sprocket or sprocket nose bar tip can also round off the bottom tips of the drive links when they bottom out in the sprockets.
Badly worn and spread bar rails also stop the chain from properly cleaning the bar kerf .

[sawguy21]

You are right, I didn't think of a worn chain.

[Texas-Jim]

Best tool to clean the bar groove is a cable tie. Just stick it in groove and run the length away from the nose. Dont want get any extra dirt in the sprocket.

Also if you tighten a chain and it gets loose almost instantly, look at the drive sprocket. If its really worn it forces the chain to ride up over the area on the sprocket thats worn. It damages the chain.

[Pine Ridge]

I keep a putty knife in my chainsaw tool box, works good to clean out the bar rails, then use a blow nozzle to finish cleaning them out. In the woods i don't have a air nozzle handy, i clean the bar rail with the putty knife, then use the handle end of a chainsaw file to clean the gunk out of the oil holes.

[bandmiller2]

One advantage of grinding chains is you need to remove them and that gives a chance to clean the groove. Many that file don't remove and clean the bar often enough. What are your feelings about the sawdust in the groove holding oil for the drive links.?? Frank C.

[Real1shepherd]

There are any number of things we used professionally back in the day...almost comical. Take the bar plate off and use that edge....surprisingly good grip on a bar plate with your fingers. Next in line is the sharp point of a Spencer Tape nail. Bailey's had the best design for the nails back then, I'll give 'em that.

I've actually bought the correct tools to clean the grove, but I always defect to the two methods above. Bar plate does a remarkable job. Also, we used to inspect the chain every couple of days and sharpen the drive links 'hooks' with the appropriate round file. Makes 'em just like new again. And if you have a chain come off, you can count on dulling the hooks on a bunch of DL's. You should fix that right away...plus if it was a particularly bad session, the sides of the DL's will need to be filed back as well.

Replaceable drum rim sprockets are cheap insurance against a chain wearing out prematurely. NEVER put a new chain on a well worn sprocket for a couple of reasons;1) The wear on the sprocket will play hell on your new DL's. 2) You can actually grenade a worn sprocket that way...messy stuff. You can however, put a new sprocket on with a worn chain. 

You need to learn how to dress your bars too.....and get that roller tool that pinches the bar rails back to spec....but that should be another thread.

Kevin

[Gearbox]

This therad scares me I think . I guess I better go out to the shop and clean my bar . and change my sprockets . I have wore out 2 chains on my 361 and all I did was flip the bar . Gearbox

[teakwood]

Dont you guys in the US get this tool from Stihl when you buy a new saw? along with some files, gloves, googles, ear muffs? The point of this tool is made for cleaning the groove and it has some milimetric lines on it so you can mesure depth of the groove and know when to flip the bar



 

[beenthere]

Have that tool and will on occasion use it to clean the bar. Don't use it to let me know when to flip the bar. Flip the bar each time I rotate out the extra chain after a few sharpenings. Use an old dental tool to clean out the grooves when the bar is flipped.
Don't use this tool to file the rakers.

[HolmenTree]

Here's the best bar maintenance tool I carry in my pocket.


  

 

[Real1shepherd]

That bar roller tool as stated above, is the best way to keep your rails tight that I've seen. Great tool and I've had mine since the 70's....still see the same tool for sale.

That Swedish hook tool looks great for rails. Trouble is, I'd lose that the first day...lol.

If you flip your bar everyday of use as a matter of course, your bar will wear evenly. Used to be a plethora of bar service outfits...most of them have dried up and tell to the truth, the metallurgy these days in some of the highly touted bars (ahem, Oregon) ain't so great. I'm not sure when the 'fall' happened, but it's ridiculous to think the better bars come from Germany or Japan....excluding Cannon which are always great...and so is their price.

Kevin

[HolmenTree]

I had the opposite experience with the bar closer roller tool, it didn't work for me.
The only proven way to best tighten rails or straighten a bar is hammering.

[snowshoveler]

I know I will get chased around the yard with a stick...but.
I have notice over the years that the saws that come in to work with a chain that beyond dull and used for some time  will always have the groove packed with sawdust.
The saws that are sharp and cutting well have a much smaller amount of dirt / dust in the bar groove.
The air filter will also be much cleaner. I think the sharp chain makes chips and the dull one is just making dust.
Co incidence, maybe, maybe not.
Regards Chris

[beenthere]

snowshoveler
Makes pretty good sense to me...  8)

[Pine Ridge]

I've saw those bar rail closers, i had thought about trying one. I have one of the pferd bar dresser tools that works ok, i get alot of life out of a bar, i flip it regularly and keep it dressed and the groove clean. That is right about cutting with a dull chain, fine dust plugging air filters and more gunk buildup in the bar groove.

[Texas-Jim]

snowshoveler you are 100% correct. A dull chain causes a bunch of woes. Fine dust to stop up everything, saw runs hotter, and when filter is stopped up it will find way get air if it has to suck it around the filter. My Stihl tech support will tell you if an engine fails and theres dust behind the filter it voids warranty. Customer cant argue he didnt maintain it right. Fine dust just as snow said packs in bar and slows oiling down then chain and bar wear faster. It doesnt take long dress up a chain and really helps your saw live longer.

[Real1shepherd]

I've saw those bar rail closers, i had thought about trying one. I have one of the pferd bar dresser tools that works ok, i get alot of life out of a bar, i flip it regularly and keep it dressed and the groove clean. That is right about cutting with a dull chain, fine dust plugging air filters and more gunk buildup in the bar groove.

The rail closure tool works great and it does it perfectly even. The trick is not to try and do it all in one roll. Light tension on your passes is the key....just enough to work, nothing more. Funny about those dressing tools that use the bar itself as the jig. It's a great concept, but almost exactly the same tool, if not the exact same tool is used to sharpen snowboard edges.

Kevin 

[Kingmt]

I'm lucky to bum a hat when I buy a saw+bar+3 chains. No ear muffs, glasses, tools. I used to get a screw driver for the carb & a bar nut wrench but I had to ask for the wrench the last time & it is junk. I did buy one of those tools you pictured in a file kit. But I only know how to clean the bar, check angle, & rackers. I didn't know you could adjust the bar with it. I've never adjusted a bar. I keep flipping them then by a new one when they ware out.

[HolmenTree]

I'm lucky to bum a hat when I buy a saw+bar+3 chains. No ear muffs, glasses, tools. I used to get a screw driver for the carb & a bar nut wrench but I had to ask for the wrench the last time & it is junk. I did buy one of those tools you pictured in a file kit. But I only know how to clean the bar, check angle, & rackers. I didn't know you could adjust the bar with it. I've never adjusted a bad. I keep flipping them then by a new one when they ware out.

Bar maintenance is two different scenarios with two different types of bars.
The solid body replaceable nose type you can maintain for years. I have a 28" Stihl ES bar  I'm  still using over 23 years.
The laminated one piece sprocket nose bars you just run them flipping them over regularly , until the sprocket nose burns out or the rails spread so bad you're stuck with a bar that you can't file the full life of a chain on.
Once the rails on a laminated bar spread badly even hammering with a shim won't tighten them up taking the spread memory out.
I have straightened them successfully  if bent by putting a piece of rubber belting between the anvil and bar, then hammering them. But rail tightening I can hammer them fairly good to spec,  but within a couple hours of cutting its memory spreads them right back out again.

Light impact hammering with a brass hammer does amazing work as many head saw filers at large sawmills can attest to. It gets into a work of art as those fellas can straighten or true up  huge  saws with that technique.

[Pine Ridge]

Real1shepherd i may pick up one of the bar rail closers and give it a try.

[Real1shepherd]

Real1shepherd i may pick up one of the bar rail closers and give it a try.

Don't rush it....plan to spend about 20 minutes your first time using it. Use some new chain to size your rail job...should be snug all the way through, but not hang up anywhere. Keep the tool from getting wet and it will last a lifetime. Don't touch the replaceable sprocket nose with it(if you have one).

Kevin