98 super with Accuset "1" ?

DansSawmill · October 02, 2015, 12:51:32 PM

hi all,
i have a 98 super with Accuset, in manual it has the plus and minus symbols when you go up and down, and it seems to be working in automatic, however, are there any tricks to having the last board come out the right thickness? it drops, like its supposed to, and the boards are the right thickness , but without manually calculating, i cant see how to have it come out right.
example...
accuset in manual, line up 4th side, ( other 3 are slabbed off ) make your cut and hit auto. mill raises and drops like it should as you cut, but that last board is a crapshoot.
dan

Magicman · October 02, 2015, 01:11:17 PM

A '98 model. Just to clarify, does it have Accuset 1 or Setworks?

4x4American · October 02, 2015, 02:17:14 PM

I have no experience with the original Accuset, but if it has a pattern mode, that is the mode you have to be in to set it so that the dog board is not a burn board. If you are in auto down, it only lowers the headrig from where you're at. In pattern mode, it figures out what marks it needs to hit to have that last board usable. Another thing to do is get the sawmill calculator app on an iphone, and it will tell you where to make your cuts with what kerf you choose. Then what you'd do is find what's closest to where you're at in the log to what drop is closest on the calculator, put headrig there, hit auto down 1" and it should work in theory.

4x4American · October 02, 2015, 02:45:51 PM

Thumb through this thread https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=27592.0 there is some good info in it.

terrifictimbersllc · October 02, 2015, 06:07:33 PM

I had Accuset 1 on my 2001 LT40 super before I upgraded to Accuset 2. Basic functions are the same, auto up, auto down, and set to bed modes. Set to bed is the mode which leaves the bottom board what you set it to.

Magicman · October 02, 2015, 06:15:40 PM

Which leads me to believe that the OP has Setworks. With that particular unit, there is no "set to bed" Your starting point determines the dog board's thickness. My '98 model SH has Setworks and I use a "cheat sheet" for determining my starting point with various thicknesses. Of course after all of these years of sawing, that cheat sheet is in my head somewhere.

Here the cheat sheet is shown on the top left of the Setworks cover.

Percy · October 02, 2015, 07:36:54 PM

Quote from: Magicman on October 02, 2015, 06:15:40 PM
Which leads me to believe that the OP has Setworks. With that particular unit, there is no "set to bed" Your starting point determines the dog board's thickness. My '98 model SH has Setworks and I use a "cheat sheet" for determining my starting point with various thicknesses. Of course after all of these years of sawing, that cheat sheet is in my head somewhere.

Here the cheat sheet is shown on the top left of the Setworks cover.

I have many cheat sheets in my head as well. Unfortunately for me, there is alot of room in there(head)to lose stuff.... ;D

drobertson · October 02, 2015, 09:48:44 PM

Even with the accuset 1 when using the pattern mode, and believing you have set it to whatever the bottom thickness to be, it if in pattern mode, and the cant laying flat, and the kerf setting is programmed in and is correct, the bottom board should be to the setting saved. Not going any further with this because the Accuset 2 should most likely be installed and proceed if these changes are possible for that particular model and year.

Magicman · October 02, 2015, 10:33:41 PM

LINK #8 is working very well.

Quote> 8. Seen it all, done it all, can't remember most of it.

DansSawmill · October 03, 2015, 08:09:24 AM

yes magicman my setworks looks like yours, i thought it was accuset , am at work, will have to look when i get home. i guess i will have to develop a cheat sheet

4x4American · October 03, 2015, 09:30:30 AM

Using that sawmill calc. will make it easier to make a cheat sheet, or I'm willing to bet that some ole boy on here will share theirs with you.

Magicman · October 03, 2015, 08:58:55 PM

It depends upon what kerf factor that you have keyed in, so developing your own is easily done.

drobertson · October 03, 2015, 09:58:26 PM

This may be off, it's been a day, mud, rain, and competition up here at the PB show, I should add, the sheet I made back, way back, before I learned the pattern mode, which if possible I would strongly recommend, is to start at the bed, then go up the desired board thickness, then add kerf, and repeat the process to however high you wish to go. Once the first two faces are open then proceed with the drop set using the cheat sheet numbers on the according faces you choose. If the pattern is switched up, you will incur mis cuts. It just take a little time and experience. Pay attention to stress, cant/log bowing, and trust the numbers. Time, Patience, and endurance is required. There is and never will be an easy go to recipe. It's about like baking at sea level and in the high mountain ranges.. Things change and you should be aware of these changes. Mental and physical notes cannot hurt a thing.

trapper · October 04, 2015, 12:11:19 AM

knowing nothing about acuset can you stick a adhesive quarter scale and pointer on the rail like on a manual mill and get a starting point for any size cant?

DansSawmill · October 04, 2015, 07:17:43 AM

thanks all,
i'll do what dr robertson and mm said, if i slab 2 oposite faces , then i can use the starting chart. i can develop that using the sawmill calculator app for androids i have on my phone, it gives a cutlist for a given kerf and board thickness.
if i want to cut ties and cants, i guess i will go back to using the manual ruler, i've done it for 22 years so a lil longer wont hurt. would like that accuset 2 , but 2500 will have to save up for that.
dan

Magicman · October 04, 2015, 08:00:00 AM

Actually you use it throughout sawing the log. When you first set the log on the sawmill bed for sawing, cant targets are set. The depth of each opening face is determined by these targets. I never make a cut without knowing where the next cut will be and it's relationship to the final cant target.

4x4American · October 04, 2015, 08:09:39 AM

That's right.

barbender · October 04, 2015, 10:52:34 AM

Quote from: Magicman on October 04, 2015, 08:00:00 AM
Actually you use it throughout sawing the log. When you first set the log on the sawmill bed for sawing, cant targets are set. The depth of each opening face is determined by these targets. I never make a cut without knowing where the next cut will be and it's relationship to the final cant target.

X2 - I would agree with MM. Although I am only a hobby sawyer, it didn't take long to realize I was making the same measurements again and again, and wasting a lot of time in the process. What you need to do is start with your desired cant dimension and work backwards- if you want to end up with an 8" wide cant, and you are taking 6/4 boards off to get to that 8", add 6/4+kerf (I use 1/8"), so the numbers would be, 8,9 5/8,11 1/4, 12 7/8, 14 1/2, etc. If you know these numbers, when you make an opening face you can then use your Setworks to drop the 6/4 for each cut, so long as your kerf allowance is set so the head drop corresponds to your cheat numbers (if it drops 1 9/16, for instance, it will throw your numbers off)