066 milling question's

[brucec]

Hello all hows it going? I have a question about a older stihl 066 using a 32" bar. im going to be using it as a milling saw just for fencing and some siding for the house ect.. im going to cutting mostly pine and cedar.

The saw is second hand and i don't know the history.. im guessing it was used for logging because that was the industry here in the Pacific north west. anyway before i start using it as a mill is their anything i need to check/do to the saw to prevent damage? such as, a leek test or compression test?

should i adjust the the limit screws so it dose not over heat? and should i put some more oil in my flue? im out  my depth here. and the saw shop's are not  much help. thanks for you advice

[jimdad07]

Welcome to it.  First thing you want is ripping chain, cuts much smoother and with less vibration than standard chain.  Next on the list is getting the saw ready.  You want to go through your fuel lines, impulse line and the intake boot.  Any cracks or any brittle spots and you want to replace those parts.  Bearings are another place you need to check.  Take your recoil and clutch cover off and try to shuck the crankshaft up and down.  There shouldn't be any play in the bearings.  Bearings take a major beating when your milling, a lot of heat gets generated with the long cuts and they need to be in top shape.  Next thing you want to check is your carb.  If you have limiter caps you want them gone, you need that saw running decently rich, not so rich you build up carbon and get it in the piston ring grooves, then you blow your saw up.  About 11,000 rpms with no load is a good number for an 066, in the cut you might be running 9000 under a good load.  Make sure when the saw is idling you turn it on all sides and let it idle, turn it clutch side up and then clutch side down.  If you have an air leak at your crank seals you'll find it by doing this, if it stays idling smooth you're in good shape.  If it revs up you know you have an air leak.  Air filter needs to be in good condition, you generate a lot of dust milling, you're not making chips like cross cutting.  The rest of it is trial and error, plus a whole lot of patience.  I've milled with chainsaws for quite awhile now and I can tell you it's dam hard work but very rewarding.  If you're looking for production or fast lumber it's not the way to go.  Good luck to you, you will enjoy it.

[brucec]

hey jim thanks for your reply, i did get myself a ripping chain but it was a pain. i need .404 but nobody has that any more for some  reason, so i changed my drive sprocket and bar sprocket to 3/8. Its likely better anyway, it allows for a smaller kerf and slight improvement  in speed. The saw shops i want to, suggested to to take 10 degrees off  an old chain, or just use a stranded cross cut chain for milling. i think it would produce a ruff finish?

How can i get the number of rpm? and
How can i tell if its running to rich?
thanks

[jimdad07]

When you're running the saw wide open with no load you should hear a burble, this is called four stroking.  When you put the saw under load the sound should clean up and there won't be any burble.  While in the cut, keep the saw at wide open throttle and lift the saw up a little, the burble should come back immediately.  This is how you set your high side tune.  When setting your idle you want the saw to rev up smoothly with no bogging.  Basically back out the L screw until you get a clean increase in throttle.  Once that's set properly you might not be able to get the saw to idle right.  To get it to idle properly you need to adjust the idle screw on the saw.  You need to do this with a properly tensioned chain, not too tight but not loose.  Turn that screw in until the chain slightly turns and then back it out until it stops turning.  Lastly turn the saw on all sides and it should idle smoothly with no bogging or leaning out.  At that point you are properly tuned.