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kameljoe21 Swing blade mill build

Started by kameljoe21, September 19, 2015, 01:04:27 AM

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kameljoe21

So I have finally started my build on my swing blade.
Right now i have a 5 hp electric motor and a T gear box.
Question, Who has made an electric mill with a 5 hp electric motor, I am going to use the Lucas 424mm blade ( 16" and change ), how was the power, under powered or just right ?
Right now I am going to make a hub for the blades i have right now, and make the Lucas one later on, with my design i think that i can change out size and be fine, provided that i make the hub the correct length.
I am going with a gear box, so that later on if i want to go someplace with out power i can swap to a gas.


Hilltop366

Welcome and good luck with your build, sorry no help with your questions.


sawmilljoe

5 hp will be a little under powered on full cuts on the lucas blade just take smaller cuts. and before you run this mill make sure there is no way to hit metal clamps or in the tree. trust me I will scare the crap out of you . I have made a swinger and will never again but if you have any questions feel free to ask.
sawmilljoe

kameljoe21

saw mill Joe
thanks for the information, I know what hitting metal is like on a band saw, we hit a 6 inch long nail last year the was deep in the trunk, and the guy i help out with the band saw, doenst like me telling him that we need to reset the dogs and he hits them from time to time.

So now I have to order a few parts as i can not find any one who has anything like this, some time this week I am going to mill out the new key way for the new shaft in the gear box, as it was just a 90 when i found it, and find a new bearing for the end that i opened, i still need to figure out how i am going to move it side by side, i was going to use pipe to slide over the solid 2 inch stock for the rails, but i think i am going to find some pulleys and do one on top and one on the bottom, 4 times, 2 on each solid stock
Any one have a better idea, This is what i have to use, not really looking to buy stuff if i dont have to, I am trying to locate some 2 inch wide pulleys but not having any luck,
I am going to open up the 4th hole as well and build the handle off of it, but then again i may not, Never mind this just wont work with out welding in in place as it will turn... scratch this idea


what i am going to order off ebay....
2x 1-1/8" Pillow Block Bearing,
2x 3.5" DIAMETER 1-1/8" BORE 1 GROOVE CAST IRON V-BELT

kameljoe21

sawmilljoe....
being under powered, will this apply to cottonwood, more of a soft wood, as i don't think ill be cutting anything other than this, with my set up if i do need to get a larger motor i can swap it with ease, nothing will affect the alignment as it with a gear box

Has any one made one with a T gear box and how does it work ?

beenthere

Sawing cottonwood can be one of the tough ones.. takes very sharp saw bits (teeth). Cottonwood likes to tear more than cut clean.  Not all the logs, but enogh.  Wouldn't put it in the class of a "soft" wood expecting it to saw easy.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

kameljoe21

well i came up with this for the rollers  they are bow rollers for boats


 
Im not sure if they will support the weight but then again boats weight alot, dont know if there will be alot of play with something like this

Let me know what you think, this is for the side to side movement....

beenthere

kameljoe

Read the FF rules at the bottom of every page about posting eBay links.  Just FYI.
Pls don't take it personal.. we all go by them. ;)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

kameljoe21

Quote from: beenthere on September 20, 2015, 01:01:08 AM
kameljoe

Read the FF rules at the bottom of every page about posting eBay links.  Just FYI.
Pls don't take it personal.. we all go by them. ;)
Fixed it, thanks

kameljoe21

has anyone used a CNC Precision Rack and Pinion ( 2nd pic below )to do the right and left movement?

or what about ACME Trapezoidal Lead Screw ( 1st pic below )for vertical movement ?

kameljoe21


sawmilljoe

On mine I used bearing top and bottom with a steel rode and pipe in front with a lock to hold it in place. 5 hp will cut slow on 6 inch cuts but if speed isn't key will work.

kameljoe21

So more photos for your viewing pleasure
In a couple of days I am going to order half of the parts i need
the photos are of the carriage that i am going to use
measurements are inside to inside of 2in solid stock 24.5 inches 
Inside to inside of angle iron 6 feet and then outside to out side is if i remember right is 78.25 inches
I squared it up as much as i can do tonight but will get my friend to help me tomorrow once its square I will weld a 1 inch bead on the top and bottom for right now in case i need to change something
the threaded rod is 1 inch diameter and 5 threads per inch, right now its the only one i have so I am going to order another one and 4 nuts
My idea is to make a 18 inch pipe with the nuts welded on to it ( half is above and below the angle iron), cut out a u shape in the angle iron and make 2 plates that will bolt on top and under the angle iron to hold the threaded rod, with flange bearings on the frame top and bottom and attack roller chain on top, with a large wheel or some type of gear box
what size gear box has anyone used ? i currently have on that is 40 to 1 with 29 rev per min when attached a 1750 electric motor to it


  

  

  

  

  

  

  

 

CaseyK

Welcome to the forum kameljoe & congrats on starting your build. I am building twin blade sawmill and used 1" 5 turn acme rods for the raise/lower and used 1/2" 8 turn acme rods for the right/left movement. For long term use buy the brass nuts and the premade mounting bracket that you had showed earlier because it will make alignment a lot easier. Please take a look at my build and if you have any questions please let me know.

Casey K
Home built automated twin blade

kameljoe21

CaseyK
I see that your rods are on just one side of the carriage, how is the support, via the vertical post? Or i mean how does the rod lift even weight being one one side, or does the post allow for free movement upwards ect??

CaseyK

Hi KamelJoe
There is 4 acme rods for the lift, one on each corner tied together with #50 roller chain powered by a wheelchair motor. I added proximity switches and pick ups on each rod to detect if there is a problem and one rod stops turning which would twist the frame. My rear ratio for the sprockets is 14/40 i think and the movable part of the frame is probably close to 1200lbs. By using the acme rods you can get super accuracy. Ive got 5000/rev encoders on mine and am able to reliably stop +/- .003 of an inch from commanded position for both the raise/lower and the side to side positioning. 
Home built automated twin blade

kameljoe21

CaseyK
1200 pounds, for the motor and all the parts that move,

I think i have come up with some where around 300 lbs for the electric motor and maybe up to 500 lbs with a gas motor

I am going for something like this in the photo and on the video but I am  wondering if it being free standing will apply to much weight to it or should i have some type of attachment to my vertical post on the frame, maybe some type of adjustable guide rollers


 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zOfX8gVggM0

kameljoe21

Question
Has anyone made a wood deck for the mill, opposed to just having dirt and steel rails that you have to walk over

I have a chance to get some pretty straight trailer frame that has been cut up already, about 8 inches deep and 3 inches wide, kinda like an i beam
I was thinking that i could place in my my cross braces between 2 outer frames and everything that i would need to lay in some 3 inch thick slabs with some type of end to keep it all snug and still be able to replace any ones that warp or degrade

kameljoe21

got part of the frame built, I messed up a blade on my horizontal band saw, and that was the last one i had, i just changed it out the other day with a new one, messed up some teeth on it and now its side cutting, ill have to order some more,
the frame is square with in a 1/10 of an inch, though the angle iron is not all the same size but i made up for it when i squared the center of it
you can see i used some cut wood to get my 30 inch inside to inside for the carriage to fit in it 
so now i need to bust open the carriage and trim an inch off of each solid stock so that i can get right at 6 feet 6 inches with the angle iron so that part will be right square with the frame, I think tomorrow i should get it finished,
I hate using my cut off saw for large stuff like that, so need to get blades




  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

 

kameljoe21

Got the frame finished, pretty much straight, a little flex on the open end, gave it a bit of red paint i had laying around, I will put in cross braces later after i get the carriage fitted in and see how all that goes, part will be on the way sometime next week



  

  

  

 

kameljoe21

I got the thread rod and nuts in to day and finished that part of it
I was careful and made sure that it turned after i tacked it. well must of not turned it enough be cause it got all jammed up
ended up have to cut them in half to make one nut and pipe, that last nut that i couldn't get off ended up torching it off and ate a part of the rod but that part is up high and don't think it will do any harm, you can see it on one of the photos, I tacked it on the the carriage and moved it up 5 inches,
will finish welding it tomorrow and paint it, now just waiting on the other parts to come in, should have some pillow blocks tomorrow and maybe the bow rollers, I need the bow rollers be for anything else, so enjoy the photos 





  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

 

kameljoe21

Got the carriage painted, The last of my parts have come in.
got the sprockets and turned some sleeves for in in side to fit the threaded rod, and taped the set screws.
Working on the carriage, there are some photos of it mocked up with the bow rollers, I am about 160 ish and i put my weight on it and it seems like they will work, Tomorrow I am going to my neighbors to mill out the slots for the bottom bow rollers so that they are adjustable. I still need to drill out the mount hole for the pillow blocks and mill out key ways for the T shaft. Other than that progress is making its way, motor mount and those then will be in the next few days. Also put some casters on the bottom so that i can move it around, its getting heavy.

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

 

CaseyK

KamelJoe, project is coming along nicely & looking great. I believe you said you were going with an electric motor for the saw blade but have you decided what you are going to do for the feedworks?
Home built automated twin blade

kameljoe21

Not sure what you mean on feedworks

If you mean what the electric motor will drive the gear box, for right now im going to use 1/2" belt, if this doesnt work i will go to roller chain

rack and pinion to go left and right

If you meant the up and down, I am using large farm type roller chain, I have a gear box that 40 to 1, and a couple my neighbor has that may work too, I'm not sure what size motor i need to run the sprockets

Kbeitz

For your up and down wheelchair motors work great and they come with a gearbox.
Cheap on E-bay...
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

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