Chainsaw upgrade recommendations

[woodsdog2015]

I am new to the forum it seems to have a lot of excellent information.  I am a weekend woodcutter for home heat.  I have a Stihl MS 251 with an 18" bar and a little Echo CS300 for in-tree cutting, limbing and for preparing trees for hanging hunting treestands.  I would like to upgrade to a bit more powerful and larger bar saw for woodcutting to use with my 251.  I have a local Stihl dealer that I like and was wondering the forum's recommendations within that product line?  I was thinking either the MS 311 or 391 or perhaps even the Pro grade 362.  I have a 3000 sq. foot house and a fireplace insert for heating.  A lot of the trees I'm working with are big maples, ash, hickory, beech, cherry and tulip.  I'm working on a big maple right now which has to be 36 to 42" in diameter and I would like a bit bigger saw and bar for bigger trees like this.  What are your recommendations???

[beenthere]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum.

My Stihl saw now is the MS362, and have a 20" bar on it. Don't have trouble with a tree of the size you mention, and because they are not the normal size would not get a longer bar just for those occasional ones.

Others may have a better recommendation, and will chime in.

[John Mc]

How much do you typically cut in a year? Is that big maple the exception to your normal cutting, or are you regularly cutting stuff that big? (I'm with Beenthere on this one: I don;t size a saw for the biggest tree I'll ever cut - that's lugging around a whole lot extra saw for the rare occasion where you might need it.)

How sensitive are you to an increase in weight? The 311 and 391 are a big step up in weight: almost 3 lbs over the 251 Woodboss. It may not sound like much, but it's a lot extra to be lugging around if you are doing a long day of cutting.

If the extra cost isn't an issue, the 362 gives you more power for less weight than either of the other options you mentioned. It's a nice saw, well made, and a very well regarded saw in the Stihl line-up. If you take care of it, it will last you a long time.

All the saws you mention will handle a 20" bar, if needed. With the 362, you could swap in 24" bar if needed. It may take a bit more patience when cutting hardwoods with a bar that big, but it will handle it. It would not be my first choice for a saw if I wanted a 24" bar on it all the time, but I'm betting you don't need one that big on a regular basis?

Given what you already have, the 362 would be a top-notch step up. The difference in power form your 251 will be quite dramatic.

[woodsdog2015]

Thanks for your recommendations.  I am the kind of woodcutter that finds fallen trees (e.g. windblown, ones felled by others etc.) and take advantage of that kind of wood availability instead of felling a lot of trees myself although I do some felling.  So, the norm is not that big of trees I mentioned in my first post but it can be when I get word from people that they have a tree that fell or whatever.  Most of my cutting right now is along a powerline right  of way where a National Power company went beyond their ROW boundary accidently and felled trees they shouldn't have so the property owner is letting me clean up his woods for my firewood use.  Some of those trees that company took down were very large but that is typically not the norm for me.  Also, What is the price difference between the MS362 and the MS311-391 class saws?  Also, what about one of the professional level MS261's with a 20" bar?  I like my 251 but as I foresee my doing more wood to keep my home heating bills down, I want a saw that I can depend on and a larger backup saw available so I figured if I upgraded to a bigger more robust saw as my "go to" saw, I could use the 251 more for limbing and as a back up when I inevitably bind my work saw up. :-\

[WV Mountaineer]

It seems as if you want the option for more power but, don't want to go too big.  Which is the right train of thought in my opinion.  But, it is really nice having a big saw when you need one.  The other guys have hit on it pretty well.  You aren't going to get any better advice or options in the Stihl line up than what has already been said if you aren't going to error on the plus side.

That 251 is little cutting machine.  That 362 will blow your mind in comparison.  It is a good size saw with plenty of umph, unless you are bucking big hardwood trees routinely with a 24 inch bar .  If so, a 441 is the next step and it isn't going to be a cheap nor, will it disappoint.  Stihl and affordable don't go together.  FWIW, I have run both the 311's and the 391''s alot and, while good decent saws for firewood use, they will struggle with a 24 inch bar in hard maple, hickory, and oak.  So, f you are cutitng a lot of big stuff, go bigger.  God Bless

[ladylake]

  Stihl 362, Husky 562 0r 555, Echo Cs590 make sure it's tuned  right, the last one I bought was right on but some come lean, Dolmar 6100   all good saws.  Stihl likes to overate the HP on their rancher saws so don't go by that.   Steve

[gspren]

   Your strength and age do make a difference on how big of saw you can handle for hours of cutting. When in my 30s through mid 50s I used my 041 or 044 for everything, now I use a 261 w/16" bar most of the time and keep a 24" on the 044 for occasional big stuff. I don't need pro saws but I like good equipment and enjoy the quality so that's what I use.

[woodsdog2015]

Thanks for your insights.  I appreciate the information.  I'm 47 and try to stay pretty active as much as possible.... usually in the woods if possible.

[ladylake]

   Your strength and age do make a difference on how big of saw you can handle for hours of cutting. When in my 30s through mid 50s I used my 041 or 044 for everything, now I use a 261 w/16" bar most of the time and keep a 24" on the 044 for occasional big stuff. I don't need pro saws but I like good equipment and enjoy the quality so that's what I use.

  I'm down to a 40cc saw that weighs 13# ready to cut around the mill  98% of the time .  Steve

[sawguy21]

I doubt if you would find the 261 with a 20" bar a big enough improvement to warrant the extra expense, you are still limited to the .325 chain. The 362 with 3/8 chain will knock your socks off without breaking your back and will handle a 24" bar as long as the chain is sharp and you are patient.

[woodsdog2015]

Thanks Sawguy this is the kind of info. I'm looking for. 

[Pine Ridge]

A 362 would be my choice of the saws you mentioned.

[s grinder]

I also use a 261 with a 16"for normal cutting,but also have a MS 660 with a 32"for stumping and 20"for kicking a--,she's heavy but an animal 20"bar

[Texas-Jim]

I love the ms 362 but be aware that the c-m model is an electronically controlled carb. Make sure your dealer can work on it or  get the non c  model. I think Stihl is going to phase out the standard model at some point. But compared to the ms251 theres no comparison.

[woodsdog2015]

Thanks for the insight.  I ended up getting the 362 C with a 20" bar.  I couldn't find the standard 362 so I hope this doesn't cause problems.  The dealer has been around for years and he just said to make sure I run non-ethanol gas through it and it should be fine.  He also said the guys that run the saws everyday even using ethanol gas usually don't have any carb problems its the ones who don't use them often and let them sit with the ethanol gas is who are having the most problems.  He said 6 years ago with ethanol gas he still didn't have problems its just been the last 6 or 7 years and he thinks its something besides just the ethanol in the fuel now that is causing the problems with the "sitter saws."

[OldJack]

It could be RBOB   (Reformulated Blendstock for Oxygenate Blending) ersatz gasoline that's causing the carburetor and fuel line problems.

http://www.wearethepractitioners.com/library/the-practitioner/2012/03/15/the-gasoline-bobs-cbob-and-rbob-(and-carbob)

I ran a John Deere 40V for 30 years, then replaced it with a Poulan. It and a grass trimmer both had the fuel lines rot off about 6-7 years ago. Fortunately high octane ethanol free gas is available here. 

[Jaket123]

I run a ms391 and a ms 250. Originally I just had the 250 and we started logging and we were just wearing the ole 250 out so I got the ms391. At first I just used the 391 for felling and cutting stuff to legnth. But once it got use to it I never even use the 250 anymore. I run a 24" full chisel on my 391 and love it. But I stay on top of keeping the chain in tip top shape. I'll never go back to the small saw (by choice, unless by body makes me ha) were starting our second winter logging and I have yet to tune or even touch my ms391. Gas, oil, and keep the chain sharp and keep the filter clean and I'm sure it will work just as flawlessly for u.

Jake

[weimedog]

So how do you like that new saw?? Feed back...

[woodsdog2015]

So how do you like that new saw?? Feed back...

Weimdog, If you're asking me how I like the new saw,  I really like it.  I'm not a seasoned user just really getting into it but cut a lot of wood (for me) this year with my MS251 and that saw is light and nimble but it strains on the big maples.  That's why I went with the 362CM.    Its heavier but blows through wood at a much quicker rate.  I'm quite happy with it it has a good speed to weight ratio IMHO.

[JW IN VA]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum.

My Stihl saw now is the MS362, and have a 20" bar on it. Don't have trouble with a tree of the size you mention, and because they are not the normal size would not get a longer bar just for those occasional ones.

Others may have a better recommendation, and will chime in.

Sounds like me.I'd spend the extra 100+.

[Cliff R]

Good choice on the MS-362.  Do NOT be afraid of ethanol in the fuel, despite the horror stories you hear about it.  Just make sure that you keep fresh fuel in the can and if the saw is going to be down for more than a couple of months dump the tank and run the engine until it stalls out.  I'd also run a 40 to 1 ratio instead of 50 to 1. 
I have over a dozen saws here, dating back to 1980, and all of them get ethanol fuel ran thru them with zero issues anyplace.  We cut a LOT of firewood, and have been heating my house and shop exclusively with wood for nearly 15 years now.

Very important to keep your saws in good tune (limiter caps removed from the newer ones) and not run them lean in the cut.  I prefer to stay just a tad on the rich side with carb adjustments, as the fuel coming in is also bringing in the lubricant for the engine parts and seals.......FWIW......Cliff

[beenthere]

Won't be adjusting anything on the MS362, IIRC