iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Chainsaw Boots, Recommendations....

Started by wfcjr, August 27, 2015, 10:10:12 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

wfcjr

Not sure if this belongs in this topic area, in General Forestry, or in Health/Safety, but here goes...

Looking for a quality pair of leather chainsaw boots.   Steel or composite toe, and whatever internal lining material that they use to make them "saw proof", or at least to limit the damage.

After years of wearing regular leather hiking boots, I figure it is time to wise up and have proper footgear in addition to my saw chaps.

Any thoughts and recommendations appreciated....

John Mc

I think I remember a thread on this in the health/safety section - they were mostly focused on finding one that was comfortable and durable, but there was some mention of steel toas and other protection.

At one point someone (Labonville) was selling chainsaw protective socks.

I have some of the Jonsered rubber chainsaw boots that have protection on the top of the foot and up the shin. They look  little like stiffer mud boots. Unfortunately, I only wear them when it's wet out (and I need the waterproof feature)... they are not that comfortable to walk in. I always end up with my shins rubbed raw if I've had to do much walking (none of my socks are high enough to act as padding for the boot rim). Like a dummy, I did not buy them big enough to fit an insulating liner inside, so I can't wear them in th ewinter unless the temperature is pretty mild.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Real1shepherd

Real loggin' boots like Wesco....COST, even without caulks.  Madsen's has a variety of boots that cost a little less than Wesco and are decent. I have no idea what you expect to pay? You can also get insulated rubber boots that are caulked with steel toes for way less than the leathers. I used to use them in the winter, but it needs to be COLD, 'cause they are really hot to wear.

Kevin

wfcjr

Quote from: Real1shepherd on August 27, 2015, 02:34:30 PM
Real loggin' boots like Wesco....COST, even without caulks.  I have no idea what you expect to pay? You can also get insulated rubber boots that are caulked with steel toes for way less than the leathers. .
Kevin

Prefer leather over rubber.  Only wear rubber boots in downpours.

I expect to pay less that it would cost for a trip to the emergency room and/or a prosthetic foot!

Understand that good gear is not inexpensive.

Thanks,

HolmenTree

Real logging boots in lace up design should be at least 8 inch high in the uppers for ankle support and have steel toe caps for crush and cut protection.
Composite  protective  toe caps offer as much cut protection as a piece of wood.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

barbender

wfcjr, I can't really offer any advice, I'm on the same hunt as you. Someone mentioned Labonville for protective socks, I believe they make actual leather chainsaw boots as well. I've read discussions about them on here before. One of the local saw shops has Husqvarna branded saw boots, I don't know if they are old stock because I have not seen them anywhere else, online included. They are a made in the U.S.A. boot, look to be excellent quality. If they were Gore-tex lined I'd be wearing a pair.
Too many irons in the fire

ZeroJunk

I bought some Georgia Boot loggers on sale for less than $100. No, they aren't Wescos or Whites but they have steel toes and offer more protection than regular work boots. So, you just need to decide whether your level of use justifies paying 4 or 5 hundred bucks for a pair of boots.

Interestingly, most of the tree service guys that I do work for don't wear logger boots often. Just some steel toe work boots.

DaveP


Redwing makes a good 8" steel toe leather boot and, its is made in the USA.

                  Davep

John Mc

I don't know if it's necessarily true, but I've heard that Steel toed work boots may not be the best choice if that's the only place that has protection. The theory behind that was that the chain will just slide along the steel until it drops off the back of the steel toe, cutting in to the top of your foot. The claim was that what might have been just losing a toe or two if the saw clipped a plain hiking boot was now destroying your foot. There were some gruesome photos to support this (one of those pictures you wish you could "un-see" once you've looked at it).

I'm curious if anyone else has heard this, and what they think of that claim. I never knew whether to believe it, or file it with the same story about a guy who never wears a seatbelt, because his cousin's first wife's uncle once survived a car crash by being thrown clear, and would have been crushed in the car had he been wearing a seat belt.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

HolmenTree

That's funny John :D
The most common chainsaw cut to the foot is on the toe cap of the left hand boot, when limbing , bucking etc. Thankfully for over 40 years I have wore steel toe boots, I've nicked a quite a few of them. Then after a few months of wear a big hole will appear over the shiny steel cap as the leather wears away. I never saw or had a chain skid across the steel cap.

There are many steel toe logging and arborist boots available with built in Kevlar layers included. I wear a leather pair of Haix Volt boots with steel toe ,Kevlar and GoreTex.
Beautiful boots very comfortable even in 90 degree weather but not cheap.
B.C forestry standards call for mandatory steel toe.  You will see a little green Christmas tree logo on a certified forestry boot.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

John Mc

Thanks, HolmenTree. I guess that story I heard goes in the "safer to not wear a seatbelt" file.

In his defense, the guy who made this argument wasn't really arguing against steel toes, he was arguing for more protection than JUST steel toes.

Those boots sound nice. Are they also OK in colder weather? I'd love to find a place that has a variety to try on, so I could compare the fit. I should wear my rubber chainsaw boot more, but they are just too uncomfortable. The fit is not great, they make my feet sweat too much when it's warm out, and are not warm enough in the cold weather.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

HolmenTree

John get the Stihl or Husqvarna rubber bottom with leather upper boots. They have Kevlar a and steel toe . Order one size larger to take felt liners for the winter.
Normal size for spring fall
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

HolmenTree

To add to last post. Wear Bama socks in them for spring fall (air conditioning) for the rubber bottoms.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

Real1shepherd

Madsen's catalog is online, but you still have to order with them on the phone. They start with Wesco and go down the chain in price. They have all sorts of combinations and you'll pay near $300 for decent boots. I like the idea of Kevlar layers, but as HT said, when you slice yourself, it's usually on the top of your left boot as you limb and buck. Never had the chain 'skate' and do damage elsewhere than the steel tip. I'm not gonna say it's not possible, just not in my personal experience.

Kevin

John Mc

Quote from: HolmenTree on August 28, 2015, 12:28:28 PM
...Wear Bama socks in them for spring fall (air conditioning) for the rubber bottoms.

Bama socks?
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

HolmenTree

Making a living with a saw since age 16.

Skidder Kev

Bama is  a booty.  It wicks the sweat away from your feet keeping them dry.   I wear them in my viking rubber boots with leather uppers. 

John Mc

Thanks, HolmenTree.

There was an error in the link: should be ".com" not "-com" but I figured it out.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

HolmenTree

Quote from: HolmenTree on August 28, 2015, 05:11:33 PM
http://www.gear-up.com/products/view/bama-socks-for-rubber-boots
There I got it fixed. My family and I were out on the lake with our pontoon boat. We anchored for the kids to swim. Had some time to check the site, Googled  Bama socks, had no pen but my wife had lip stick in here purse..............
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

Real1shepherd

I honestly don't know if that would work better than say REI's Moreno blend expedition socks. I wear these socks all yr around at work. Contrary to what most believe, you can wear quality wool blends socks in hot weather, they wick sweat well and your body regulates to the wool being on in the summer. I wear them for the padding in the warm months and the insulation in the winter. Like with anything wool, keep it CLEAN.

Kevin

teakwood

wfcjr: I think they dont get you. You want a chainsawsafety boot who is not rubber.
They are not very common in the us i think, more in europe. Stihl sells several of them in Europe, 4-5 models leather boots and also rubber boots with chainsaw protection. they are around 250-500$, not cheap but cheaper then a cut.
National Stihl Timbersports Champion Costa Rica 2018

teakwood

If you like the european style of safety buy some chainsaw pants from pfanner
http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=8010

You will never wear chaps again in you life, especially when its hot.


  

 
National Stihl Timbersports Champion Costa Rica 2018

beenthere

HT
QuoteGoogled  Bama socks, had no pen but my wife had lip stick in here purse..............

THAT note would make a good pic to post...  ;D
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

HolmenTree

I wear wool too . Ipaca (spelling is off lama from South America )wool is the best but takes longer to dry.
Good for our cold Canadian climate.
But you can't  beat the Bama sock  (you wear wool socks inside of them) Us loggers up here have been wearing them since the 1970s. They originally came out of Austria and who makes a better product then them guys.
Give them a try.....you'll thank me.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

HolmenTree

Quote from: beenthere on August 28, 2015, 10:06:16 PM
HT
QuoteGoogled  Bama socks, had no pen but my wife had lip stick in here purse..............

THAT note would make a good pic to post...  ;D
Haha I wrote it on the back of a grocery till slip ..Not very readable
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

HolmenTree

Quote from: teakwood on August 28, 2015, 07:26:59 PM
If you like the european style of safety buy some chainsaw pants from pfanner
http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=8010

You will never wear chaps again in you life, especially when its hot.


  

 [img width=640  :oheight=480]https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/37555/Raleo_2015_281629.JPG[/img]

Yeah but you forgot your helmet
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

shinnlinger

Shinnlinger
Woodshop teacher, pasture raised chicken farmer
34 horse kubota L-2850, Turner Band Mill, '84 F-600,
living in self-built/milled timberframe home

thecfarm

Bama,I just might have to try a pair of them. I try to buy good socks,wear 2 pair all winter and summer too.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

wfcjr

Thanks for all of the suggestions.  Some of the European boots look to be very well made and more in line with what I am looking for.  They appear to be boots that will likely be comfortable walking as well.  But will also look a the made-in-USA brands.

Anyone have any experience with the Haix, Stihl or Husky boots? It almost looks like Haix, or a similar co., is making the boots for Stihl & Husky.

Finally, does anyone know the difference between Class 1 and Class 2 protection levels on the boots?

Thanks,

teakwood

class 1 is 20m/second chainsawspeed and class 2 is 24m/sec
National Stihl Timbersports Champion Costa Rica 2018

teakwood

 
Yeah but you forgot your helmet
[/quote]

Yes i know. I just work on my teak plantations, there is no dead hanging stuff on teak trees. we have 80-95 degrees the whole year around, i just cant wear a helmet it gives me a headache in one hour



  

 
National Stihl Timbersports Champion Costa Rica 2018

Jhenderson

I stopped buying Labonville chainsaw boots. They changed the leather tanning process and they are now very stiff and uncomfortable around the tongue. No amount of leather products has softened them to a level I can tolerate. I've gone back to Chippewa loggers with a steel toe. No extra cut protection but being uncomfortable all day is dangerous also. Leather is breathable and a far better choice in warmer weather. I do wear rubber calks with saw protection in winter. And yes, both toes show just a little steel.

North River Energy

Ordered in a pair of the Stihl boots a number of years back.  They, and the Labonville, run/ran about a size larger than normal.  Or at least they did at the time.  Bought the Labonville, as they were priced right at  just north of $150.  Also were available in two different heel heights.  They looked like they might have come from the same manufacturer in Pennsylvania.
I don't wear them anymore, as they came in a double E width, and I realized just how clumsy all that extra boot made me on uneven terrain.
Whatever you choose, make sure they fit well, and don't compromise your agility.  Mistakes at the ground level recruit the hands and arms to restore stability, and if you're running a saw at the time.....

Real1shepherd

Quote from: Jhenderson on August 29, 2015, 06:30:43 PM
I stopped buying Labonville chainsaw boots. They changed the leather tanning process and they are now very stiff and uncomfortable around the tongue. No amount of leather products has softened them to a level I can tolerate. I've gone back to Chippewa loggers with a steel toe. No extra cut protection but being uncomfortable all day is dangerous also. Leather is breathable and a far better choice in warmer weather. I do wear rubber calks with saw protection in winter. And yes, both toes show just a little steel.

Very reasonable and thoughtful answer....anyone considering the Labonville boots, should heed this advice. And I still think that 95% of the dangers are focused around the top toe tips of the boots

Kevin

sprucebunny

I have Carolina boots with metatarsal guards. Seldom wear them, I'd rather sweat in my rubber Vikings.
Bottom left of this page.
http://www.discountsafetygear.com/metatarsal-boots-safety-work-boots.html
MS193, MS192 and an 026  Weeding and Thinning. Gilbert Champion sawmill

John Mc

I never could get used to those boots with the external metatarsal guards. I worked in a steel wire manufacturing plant for years, and thought I'd try some for the better protection they offered than just steel toes alone. They always seemed to be snagging the ends of the coils of wire that were stacked on the floor, or somehow always got caught up in that odd scrap that evaded our housekeeping efforts. I gave up on them and went back to regular steel toes.

Has anyone actually used these much in the woods? I would think that catching on brush would be a concern.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

HolmenTree

Quote from: teakwood on August 29, 2015, 08:48:24 AM




  

 
[/quote]

teakwood nice operation you have there.
Yeah I work in 90° temperatures  with lots of humidity too . But looking at those ear  muffs your wearing their probably hotter then a helmet. At least they'll protect you from a concussion if you banged your head against the inside of your skidder's canopy.
In my avatar picture I'm wearing a Petzl Vent helmet with screen. It's white and with the top vents open there's lots of air movement and still  with lots of protection from the suns rays.
I wear foam ear plugs.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

John Mc

We're drifting off the boot topic (about as far as you can and still be on your body), but...

I'd like to take the ear muffs off my helmet, and just use ear plugs to save the weight and heat. Unfortunately, they are integral to the visor, so if I take them off, I lose the visor as well.  Those muffs are nice in the winter, however

Who sells that Petzl vent helmet? Is it made to the same safety standards as the orange plastic forestry helmets with the ear muffs that everyone else seems to sell?
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

wfcjr

Quote from: John Mc on August 30, 2015, 01:07:58 PM
We're drifting off the boot topic (about as far as you can and still be on your body), but...

I'd like to take the ear muffs off my helmet, and just use ear plugs to save the weight and heat. Unfortunately, they are integral to the visor, so if I take them off, I lose the visor as well.  Those muffs are nice in the winter, however

Who sells that Petzl vent helmet? Is it made to the same safety standards as the orange plastic forestry helmets with the ear muffs that everyone else seems to sell?

John,

Start a new thread... I would guess that there are a lot of guys, including me, that would be interested in helmet/visor/ear protection options that offer good protection, but are not as clunky or as hot, as the ubiquitous orange integrated helmet/visor/ear muff debacle.  Also, if the one that I have is indicative of the average build quality, I am not sure how much protection it actually offers.


Ozarker


Pine Ridge

I wear 8" redwing work boots with steel toes. Talking about helmets, if you are pounding plastic felling wedges in a tree put your mesh visor down everytime , i had one fly out of the backcut , hit my visor very hard. If my visor had not been down it would have done some real damage to me, happened so fast no way i could react.
Husqvarna 550xp , 2- 372xp and a 288xp, Chevy 4x4 winch truck

HolmenTree

Quote from: John Mc on August 30, 2015, 01:07:58 PM
We're drifting off the boot topic (about as far as you can and still be on your body), but...

I'd like to take the ear muffs off my helmet, and just use ear plugs to save the weight and heat. Unfortunately, they are integral to the visor, so if I take them off, I lose the visor as well.  Those muffs are nice in the winter, however

Who sells that Petzl vent helmet? Is it made to the same safety standards as the orange plastic forestry helmets with the ear muffs that everyone else seems to sell?
When I see someone felling trees with just earmuffs on his head I get antsy.
Petzl helmets are available through most North American suppliers even Baileys.
They are ANSI/CSA compliant  with a 6 point suspension and 4 point built in chin strap. Better then most forestry grade helmets .Yes their available  in orange :D
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

John Mc

HolmenTree -

I wasn't talking about using just earmuffs. I was talking about removing the earmuff from a helmet to save the heat and the weight of having them there, and wearing just the helmet with the visor and using ear plugs for hearing protection. I can't do that, because removing the earmuffs and the arms that hold them also removes the flip up bracket that holds the visor.

The only time I'm using a chainsaw without a helmet on is when I'm out in an open field bucking wood to stove length (and even them, I usually just wear my helmet unless it's roasting hot out - then it's just safety glasses and ear plugs).
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

HolmenTree

Quote from: teakwood on August 28, 2015, 07:26:59 PM
If you like the european style of safety buy some chainsaw pants from pfanner
http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=8010

You will never wear chaps again in you life, especially when its hot.


  

 
No I wasn't referring to you John  :D
I was referring to teakwood here earlier with his picture of himself falling trees with no helmet guess the "quote" from teakwood and myself didn't  display properly in my post.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

John Mc

Yeah, you quoted me in that post.

Chaps or chainsaw pants w/helmet for me when felling. I do have to say, when I'm out cutting in what is considered "hot" by Vermont standards (basically, anything above the low to mid 80's), I have to wonder how the guys in warmer climates avoid heat stroke with the safety gear on. If i remember correctly, the human body can generally only replace about 2 liters of water per hour (if you try to take in more, it just passes right through you). It's not hard to exceed that when operating a chainsaw in warm weather.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

pineywoods

Quote from: John Mc on August 31, 2015, 09:24:16 PM
I have to wonder how the guys in warmer climates avoid heat stroke with the safety gear on. If i remember correctly, the human body can generally only replace about 2 liters of water per hour (if you try to take in more, it just passes right through you). It's not hard to exceed that when operating a chainsaw in warm weather.

Air conditioned feller-bunchers, air conditioned grapple skidders, and air conditioned loaders with slasher saws/de-limbers. A man decked out in full safety gear, running a chainsaw in tripple digit temps and 85-90% humidity will be flat on the ground from heatstroke in short order. You learn to leave off the gear and keep an extra sharp eye out for hazards, or stay out of the woods. Drink lots of fluids, don't work alone, wear cotton clothes that wick away moisture..Start early and quit by early afternoon. I have a 40 acre plot right down the road that has a bunch of very nice re oaks on the ground from a storm. I need to get these out for logs and firewood, it ain't gonna be fun. I'll probably work one tree a day and retreat to the air conditioned house. ;D
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

teakwood

I tell you a little bit about hot climates. In Costa Rica we have around 80-90 in the rain season with 80-100% humidity every day, in dry season (when we log) its between 90-98 with 60% humidity. In dry season sun comes out at 6am till 5pm without any cloud in sight.
so you already sweat when starting the chain saw. I drink about 0.75gal a day but in the evening sitting in the couch i can drink and drink and drink and still thirsty.
I had several heatstrokes, when you get chili (like cold and goosebumps) then you have to stop or you wont work the other day. What i do when i log (just 2-3months a year) i start at 6am till 11 and then go back to the woods from 3pm till 5or 6. sometimes i just work the morning and relax the noon or do something in the shop.
So maybe now you guys understand why i dont wear a helmet and those pants costed me 350$ but they are the only thing that works for hot climates (comfty like a jogging pants).


 
National Stihl Timbersports Champion Costa Rica 2018

Ianab

To be fair, with young straight plantation trees like that you don't have to worry so much about the vines, dead branches and pine cones that most folks do. When debris starts to rain down as a tree moves, then you appreciate a helmet.  ;)
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

HolmenTree

The hot sun shining down on a bare head is going to make you more hot then with a helmet on. I have a white sunshade curtain hanging at the back of my summer helmet most days.
Don't forget helmets offer a degree of kickback protection from the saw also.
I have 2 different pairs of Pfanner safety pants, Gladiator for cooler days and the Ventalations for the hot days.
Here's my 2 favorite helmets . Pacific Kevlar with muffs and for hot climbing days my Petzl Vent.Both have full 6 point suspension with  built in chin straps with a whistle attached.
Don't  have a pic of my white full brim with sunshade.


 

Making a living with a saw since age 16.

grassfed

My helmet saved me a couple of weeks ago. It was the last hitch after a long hard day. I had just felled an 80+ foot aspen and was clearing a couple of small suppressed Balsam firs so I could winch the tree out of a soft area that I did not want to drive the skidder through.

I cut one 5 inch, at the base, 20 foot tall  fir but I misjudged it got hung up on another similar tree. Anyway I was tired and not at my best but I did not want to drive back to the landing with a partial hitch so I cut the other tree thinking that I would get out of the way before the 2 trees fell.

Of course My saw ran out of fuel just as I started cutting and after I refueled I finished cutting down the second fir but I completely FORGOT about the hung tree.

Just as I stepped away from the falling tree the hung tree landed perfectly square on the center of my head. My knees buckled instantly and I fell straight to the grown tossing my still running saw as I fell.

The first thing I thought was Doh! I forgot about the hung tree and the second thing I thought is that my helmet really does a good job of dissipating the impact. I was wearing a Husqvarna helmet with a six point suspension. I always like these because the ear cut outs help the ear mitts fit better.   
Mike

John Mc

Yowch! Even with the helmet, that had to hurt. Lucky it wasn't a larger tree. Glad to hear you are OK.

It always seems to be that "one last thing" where people end up getting hurt. I've got a ski patrol friend who has pulled a lot of injured skiers down of the mountain. He says the majority always say something like "this was going to be my last run of the day", or "I was just headed in for a break".
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

HolmenTree

Glad to hear your ok too grassfed.
I like those Husqvarna  helmets too. They also have a  nice short brim to make it easier when looking up.
One time I felled a little 4 inch diameter maple, being a little careless I didn't see it land on a large rock at about the middle of the tree. The  button swung up like a teeter tooter  and then came down and nailed me on top of my hardhat.
That hurt.

Making a living with a saw since age 16.

Atlantic Trader

I was thinking on buying these but only available in Europe? Pricey but look good.

  

 

Atlantic Trader

Holme tree , that white helmet with the ear muffs is that a radio receiver? If so where did you get those?

HolmenTree

Quote from: Atlantic Trader on September 01, 2015, 07:32:30 PM
Holme tree , that white helmet with the ear muffs is that a radio receiver? If so where did you get those?
Yup it's a am/fm radio receiver with a plug for a MP3 . Comes in real handy for those long days grinding stumps or chipping brush.
I bought it at Canadian Tire.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

Atlantic Trader

I will have to check it out to see if I can get a set, thanks

Atlantic Trader

Holmen tree, what is the name on the ear muffs?

weimedog

This is great info 8)  I used to wear a boot made by a company "Danner" (Do they still exist??) then after the injury's suffered during mid life crisis I am no longer comfortable in boots and had to go with the shorter work boot. So now wear Red Wing brand "Irish Setter" 83607 6inch steel toe work boot both at work and on the farm. A little pricey but I've tried everything else and its what I can deal with. Use "gators" in the winter to keep the snow out.


Looking for a better helmet system now so this thread is really timely
Husqvarna 365sp/372xpw Blend, Jonsered 2171 51.4mm XPW build,562xp HTSS, 560 HTSS, 272XP, 61/272XP, 555, 257, 242, 238, Homelite S-XL 925, XP-1020A, Super XL (Dad's saw); Jonsered 2094, Three 920's, CS-2172, Solo 603; 3 Huztl MS660's (2 54mm and 1 56mm)

HolmenTree

Making a living with a saw since age 16.

HolmenTree

Their also branded 3M Digital WORKTUNES.  They come with a head band mount. But being made by Peltor I replaced the head band with the hard hat attachment swivel mount as my picture shows.
Be extra careful when prying them off the muffs so not to break the stubs.


 
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

HolmenTree

Making a living with a saw since age 16.

luvmexfood

Quote from: grassfed on September 01, 2015, 11:21:53 AM
My helmet saved me a couple of weeks ago. It was the last hitch after a long hard day. I had just felled an 80+ foot aspen and was clearing a couple of small suppressed Balsam firs so I could winch the tree out of a soft area that I did not want to drive the skidder through.

I cut one 5 inch, at the base, 20 foot tall  fir but I misjudged it got hung up on another similar tree. Anyway I was tired and not at my best but I did not want to drive back to the landing with a partial hitch so I cut the other tree thinking that I would get out of the way before the 2 trees fell.

Of course My saw ran out of fuel just as I started cutting and after I refueled I finished cutting down the second fir but I completely FORGOT about the hung tree.

Just as I stepped away from the falling tree the hung tree landed perfectly square on the center of my head. My knees buckled instantly and I fell straight to the grown tossing my still running saw as I fell.

The first thing I thought was Doh! I forgot about the hung tree and the second thing I thought is that my helmet really does a good job of dissipating the impact. I was wearing a Husqvarna helmet with a six point suspension. I always like these because the ear cut outs help the ear mitts fit better.

Funny how when falling with a chainsaw it's natural to throw that saw. Once was up about 6 ft. on a ladder cutting a limb out of a tree in the yard. Not all that big but when the limb came loose it through me off the ladder. Suprised how far you can throw a chainsaw when falling thru the air.
Give me a new saw chain and I can find you a rock in a heartbeat.

edkemper

I need a pair of boots also. Unfortunately I've found it prohibitive to order boots online. I'm an old guy that remembers going into stores and having someone that knows how to fit shoes/boots to a customer. Now days, I tend to collect shoes that don't fit well and just get tossed aside.
Old Man

Real1shepherd

Quote from: edkemper on September 02, 2015, 07:55:09 PM
I need a pair of boots also. Unfortunately I've found it prohibitive to order boots online. I'm an old guy that remembers going into stores and having someone that knows how to fit shoes/boots to a customer. Now days, I tend to collect shoes that don't fit well and just get tossed aside.

I hear ya on that...real hassle to return shoes/boots online that don't fit. Sometimes you have to get an RMA # and dance through their hoops. Boot salesman that knew what he was doing....yeah, lost trade and bygone era.

Kevin


luvmexfood

Quote from: Real1shepherd on September 03, 2015, 02:50:08 PM
Quote from: edkemper on September 02, 2015, 07:55:09 PM
I need a pair of boots also. Unfortunately I've found it prohibitive to order boots online. I'm an old guy that remembers going into stores and having someone that knows how to fit shoes/boots to a customer. Now days, I tend to collect shoes that don't fit well and just get tossed aside.

I hear ya on that...real hassle to return shoes/boots online that don't fit. Sometimes you have to get an RMA # and dance through their hoops. Boot salesman that knew what he was doing....yeah, lost trade and bygone era.

Kevin

I can't buy boots or shoes on line. Pretty much flat footed and have to try them on. Last pair I found that fit were at basspro. Redheads. Not my first choice but if thats all you can find. Most regular boots fill like I have a 3/4 cake of worn out soap in my instep. Can't stand them.
Give me a new saw chain and I can find you a rock in a heartbeat.

John Mc

Quote from: luvmexfood on September 03, 2015, 04:30:07 PM
I can't buy boots or shoes on line. Pretty much flat footed and have to try them on. Last pair I found that fit were at basspro. Redheads. Not my first choice but if thats all you can find. Most regular boots fill like I have a 3/4 cake of worn out soap in my instep. Can't stand them.

Have you tried any of the aftermarket insoles? Some of them are made for either high or low arches. Or you could lift the existing insole and put something in to build up a bit under the heal and/or ball of your foot to help flatten the arch a bit.

Go in small increments, if you try this. Remember you may have to loosen laces way up and re-tie, then wear your boots around to form them to the new fit.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Atlantic Trader

I posted a pic of the husqvarna boots in this thread does anyone know if they can be purchased in the United States?

wfcjr

Likely narrow down to either Haix or Arbortec.
Can get Class 2 & Class 3 protection.  Class 2 from Haix, Class 3 from Arbortec.

Big downside with what appears to be all brands is that the soles are molded on rather than
goodyear welt & stitched.... so they can't be replaced.  Bit of a disappointment that such expensive
boots cannot be re-soled.

Any one have any experience with either of these boot brands?

Thanks....

grassfed

I have been using Haix Airpower P7 High boots since spring. They are not chainsaw protection boots but they give very good support and fit well after they are broken in. You can get them resoled and Haix sends you info on how to do that with the boots. I purchased mine from the Haix online store that sells "seconds" the price is very good on those but sizes are limited. I am very hard to fit (13 5E) so I thought that by getting these I would get an idea how they fit and might buy the chainsaw boots when I can afford them. I also have a pair oh Hofmans caulked boots that I like alot I have the 9012s but now they are upgraded and are called 9014. You can buy them online from hofmans. They only come in E but the 14s fit me ok and also give very good support. I have Husqvarna rubber boots that are about worn out and a pair of Labonville leather Chainsaw boots that are also pretty worn out . I will probably get the Labonville resoled at some point but since there are not any cobblers around anymore I have to send them out.
Mike

wfcjr

Update.

Ordered & received 2 pairs of boots; Haix Protector Prime and SwedePro Leather Chainsaw Boots.

The Haix boots carry a European Class 2 rating, (Class 3 being the highest & Class 1 lowest for chainsaw protection).
The only reference to ratings on the SwedePro that I can find are that it "meets the requirement for chainsaw protective footwear" in some OSHA reg.  The OSHA reg only requires that footwear "protect the employee against contact with a running chainsaw".... whatever that means.

At any rate, both have steel toes.  Both have fibers in the layers of the boot, like chaps.

Where they differ...  the Haix is very stout.  Feels almost like wearing a ski boot, albeit a more forgiving ski boot.
Just based upon feel alone, it seems like the Haix will provide greater cut resistance/protection.  The Haix are have a GoreTex layer, the SwedePro do not.
Haix is also a molded, integrated sole... forget about resoling.  Haix uppers are a NuBuck or suede, so no polishing/conditioning.

The SwedePro fits more like a traditional boot, looks more like a traditional boot.  Will likely be more comfortable for walking & working.
American made, Goodyear welt and sewn on/glued on sole.  So can be re-soled.  Traditional leather upper, will take polish, Sno Proof etc.
No GoreTex layer for the GoreTex fans out there.

My concern is that the Haix will be very stiff & somewhat awkward for walking around.  Also, I use a tractor to help with cutting trees for firewood and for skidding logs out to woods roads & trails.  Unless I am cutting logs into firewood length behind the barn, I am pretty much always working from the tractor when cutting trees, 9' log lengths and skidding.  The SwedePro will likely be an easier boot for working the clutch, accelerator, brakes, etc. 

Either boot is a big step up from my current leather work boots.  The Haix is likely more protection than the SwedePro but a lot less comfortable and mobile.  The SwedePro wears more like a boot, but the chainsaw protection/resistance is likely not on par with the Haix.  While both boots are very different in look, feel and construction, both boots, out of the box, appear to be of a very high quality.  Disclaimer here... no idea how either will wear long term.

So if I were going for pure safety, would be the Haix.  If I were going for comfort would be the SwedePro.
Question is, do the SwedePro provide enough safety to warrant the comfort, and/or do the Haix provide an extra measure of safety to warrant the compromise in comfort & mobility?

Gonna keep one & return the other once I (try to) figure this out.

If anyone has first hand experience with either, would be great to hear from you. 

Thanks,


Ozarker

Thanks for the update. I'm looking to get a pair of the SwedePro, too, this winter.

celliott

Quote from: grassfed on September 04, 2015, 02:41:38 PM
I will probably get the Labonville resoled at some point but since there are not any cobblers around anymore I have to send them out.

There's a shop in Barre VT that does boot resoling. They did a pair of chippewas for me last summer. I was pleased.
Boisvert's is the place. Think they mostly advertise motorcycle and leather goods but they do shoe repair as well.
Chris Elliott

Clark 666C cable skidder
Husqvarna and Jonsered pro saws
265rx clearing saw
Professional maple tubing installer and maple sugaring worker, part time logger

Old Greenhorn

If you are doing research, this is a good place to do it. Use the search tool and just search all threads for "Haix" or other key words, seems like most of the discussion is in the logging section, here is just ONE, there are many more threads.
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

barbender

 My first pair of Haix XR200's had the sole seperate. Haix replaced them, even though they were no longer under warranty which I thought was great customer service. The second pair had the sole seperate after about a year and a half as well. 

 Lacking much for other options for saw boots, I bought another pair of XR200's. These ones have lasted longer without the sole separation issue, so I think maybe they got the issue figured out.

 Outside that sole separation, the Haix boots are top quality, with excellent components throughout, like real Gore-tex linings. 

 One other issue I forgot about, they have a locking lace system and it chews through your boot laces fairly quickly.

 I also find them rather stiff. Because of the good quality I'd like to say that they are the most comfortable boots I've ever owned, but that's not the case.

 I think the XR200's are 6" height, and I would prefer 8". You have to go to their other saw boot, the model of which I forget at the moment, to get a taller boot. Those ones only come in flaming red, orange and lime green and I guess I'm not secure enough in my masculinity to rock a pair of boots that look like they came from Elton John's wardrobe🤷 If they came in black or brown I'd buy a pair.
Too many irons in the fire

John Mc

I've owned a pair of Haix XR200 boots for years, and not had a problem with sole separation. Very comfortable and have held up well.

The Haix XR200 boots have 7" uppers, European class 1 cut protection, brown leather
Haix Protector Ultra: 8" uppers and class 2 cut protection, available in bright green or red
Haix Protector Prime: 9" uppers and class 2 cut protection, orange

The Ultra boots were not made when I was shopping. I found the Primes too tall for my comfort, so went with the XR200 boots.  I do like the tread pattern on the the Ultra and Prime boots better than the style on the XR200. When these XR200 finally wear out, I'll consider the Ultra.

A sizing tip, if you are ordering online: My brother and I have both found the XR200 boots to run true to size. When I tried on the Ultra at a trade show, I was advised to go down a half size - that advice seemed right one, though I only had them on briefly.

If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Thank You Sponsors!