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corley edger

Started by sandsawmill14, August 18, 2015, 09:59:17 PM

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sandsawmill14

finally got an edger its an old 30" corley with 2 movable blades havent had time to set it up yet but did run 1 board through it and it cut good but the board had a crown to it instead of being straight. it  has the inserted tooth blades. i can pretty much figure out a band sawmill but have never had any experience with circle blades. anyone have any ideas? ???
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

Larry

Your pineapple pinch rolls may need to be trued up on a lathe.
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customsawyer

One blade might be duller than the other and that will make one feed a little crooked.
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sandsawmill14

larry rolls check to be flat

customsawyer thats what im guessing but this week has been crazy so i havent had a chance to look any further. my brother is a sawyer on a circle mill so maybe he can check it this weekend for me if not i think i will just order a box of teeth monday and start all new that should eliminate problem if sharpening is the problem shouldnt it  ???
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

Gearbox

If there is an angle iron on the outfeed end it has to be aligned with the fixed blade . if not you can get wedges and curves . Gearbox
A bunch of chainsaws a BT6870 processer , TC 5 International track skidder and not near enough time

sandsawmill14

both blades are movable  :) :)
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

JB Griffin

make sure the teeth on both saws are lined up straight across from each other and not staggered or it wont cut straight.
2000 LT40hyd remote 33hp Kubota with 6gpm hyd unit, 150 Prentice, WM bms250, Suffolk dual tooth setter

Over 3.5million bdft sawn with a Baker Dominator.

beenthere

Quote from: JB Griffin on August 21, 2015, 06:34:12 PM
make sure the teeth on both saws are lined up straight across from each other and not staggered or it wont cut straight.

Wouldn't both (or all three) of the saws be on the same shaft? One fixed and the others sliding?

Or am I just missing something about being "straight across" ? 
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Kbeitz

Some are on an octagon shaft. make sure the teeth are even with each other. Not offset.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
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Ron Wenrich

You would be surprised what one tooth with a bad corner will do to saw performance.   Starting with new teeth is always a good way to eliminate any tooth problems.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

JB Griffin

What I am trying to say is that if you laid the saws on top of each other the teeth would match up with each other rather than if you turned one saw slightly they would be staggered. Hope this helps.
2000 LT40hyd remote 33hp Kubota with 6gpm hyd unit, 150 Prentice, WM bms250, Suffolk dual tooth setter

Over 3.5million bdft sawn with a Baker Dominator.

beenthere

I think the edger blades have a keyway that keeps them aligned when they move along the powered shaft. Others may know that for sure.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Ron Wenrich

Interesting concept.  But, a saw that is cutting true should matter little if the teeth are synchronized. 

I had a mill owner that had a double end trimmer.  Think of it as an edger that is very wide and that the boards run through lengthwise instead of widthwise.  He had a problem with the boards actually jumping somewhat as they passed through the trimmer.  My concept was that a saw cutting true would cut straight.  The things that affect a headsaw cutting straight is the teeth or lead.  I have found that most often teeth are the problem.

In this case, we added lead to the saws so the boards weren't running into the saw.  Basically, we needed to provide clearance for the saws to work.  That ended the problems.  Synchronization wasn't a problem.  That's not to say your idea doesn't have merit.  To me, teeth are the first thing I look at.  Replace and see if the problem goes away.  Then move on to another solution.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

sandsawmill14

ron  they are going to send my new teeth with my bands this week so i will know by the first of the week.  how many rpms would you guess the blades should? they are 14" blades ???
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

Ron Wenrich

If you're doing hardwoods, then you should have a rim speed of 8,000-9,000 surface ft/min.  14" sounds like a pretty small saw.  If you are using 6" collars, you would only have a maximum cut of 4".  A 14" saw would figure out to about 2175-2450 RPM.  Bigger saws mean lower RPM.  If you're in softwoods, you could go faster. 
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

sandsawmill14

i am pretty sure they are 14" it is a small edger i think 4 x 30 is the capacity
i may be a little slow then i think im in  the 1700-1800 rpm.  i will measure this afternoon and know for sure. would running blades slower still saw right ? i know the big saws have to be hammered for speed but didnt figure it would matter on 14" saws.
thanks for taking time to try and help me :)
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

Ron Wenrich

I don't think it would hurt.  The feed rate of the edger will be slower, as it comes off the main arbor.  It's all pretty well timed, so you shouldn't be overloading the saw. 

I ran 22" on my vertical edger, and those had to be hammered on occasion.  We had smaller ones on our horizontal edger and I don't recall ever having them hammered.  That edger was running at about 1750, but had 18" blades. 
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

sandsawmill14

hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

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