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Jonsered 2152 surges at idle and won't rev up

Started by Skattracker2, August 12, 2015, 02:21:08 PM

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Skattracker2

Hello everyone.  I am new to the site and am having problems with my wife's CS2152 and she is not happy with me.

The long story is I had a very nice 2159 that someone stole out of my truck so I bought a 670 super II and a 910 to replace it and to save some money, but at the time neither one worked properly.

So I was using my wife's 2152 to cut up a small tree for firewood.  A small limb (1" maple) came back and hit my hand and activated the brake.  Reset the brake and all the saw would do is idle and surge.  If I tried to rev it up it would die.

I had not worked on a saw much before but had rebuild multiple 2 stroke golf cart engines and 4 stroke tractor engine and many carbs so how hard could it be. 

My first mistake is I did a compression test on it and it read 75 ft lbs.  I was using an automotive tester which I now know does not work.  I tested my 670 and 910 and they both tested 140-150 ft lbs, but now I know that the 2152 does not have enough displacement for that tester.  I bought a new piston and jug off ebay for the saw. I put it all together and fired it up and still same issue.  Surge at idle and wont rev.

My wife then was being nice and decided to buy me a brand new Husky 555 which I still have not opened.  She also took the 2152 saw to the local dealer and told them to look at it.  The dealer looked at it and called me wondering what was going on with it.  They said that the saw had good compression but the carb was shot.  They wanted $150 for a new carb and repair so I just went and got it.

I purchased a new carb off of ebay and installed it last night.  Again the saw starts right up and will surge at idle but will not rev and dies.  She is now *pithed that I did not leave saw at dealer.

Please help.

It is new enough that it does have the upgraded metal clamp on the boot and the muffler seems to be clear.

Thanks in advance.

John Mc

I think you should send the 555 to me -- or have your wife talk to mine, so she can get me a 555 as well (in fairness, my wife did get me a nice Jonsered brush saw some years ago).

Did anything crack when you got whapped by the branch? I wonder if you have an air leak.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

lumberjack48

 I would start it, and spray a little starting fluid by the sprocket. If it revs up, the crank seal is leaking or should i say sucking.
Third generation logger, owner operator, 30 yrs felling experience with pole skidder. I got my neck broke back in 89, left me a quad. The wife kept the job going up to 96.

Skattracker2

The wack by the branch was not that severe especially to crack something.  I initially thought I had a bad decompression valve as that would have been hit by branch but I replaced that with the one in the engine rebuild kit.

beenthere

Welcome to the Forestry Forum.

Best listen to your wife.  ;D  She sounds like a winner and wants to support your local dealer.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

John Mc

Surges and dies leaves a lot of room for interpretation, so it's hard to tell what is going on.

Have you already checked the simple things, like the fuel filter and whether the exhaust screen on the muffler is clogged?

Doe show well the saw runs depend in any way on what position it is in (upside down, on it's side, etc.)?
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Skattracker2

Thanks for help.
I tried starting fluid behind clutch and no change.  I checked muffler and it is clear including screen.

Skattracker2


Skattracker2

I sprayed starting fluid by clutch and no change.  I sprayed behind flywheel and a little change.  I switched to carb cleaner and no change unless I sprayed the rubber boot.  Do I need a new boot?

Here is a you tube link for saw running. http://youtu.be/bQCy8maqtJs

John Mc

Can't see the youtube video. I get a message saying "this video is private"

[EDIT: it's working now]
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Skattracker2

Sorry.  First you tube video.  It's fixed now I think

Skattracker2

I inspected the boot and it looks good except the little nipple has a Crack but I don't think it would cause the problem.

346xp

Quote from: John Mc on August 12, 2015, 09:47:27 PM
Can't see the youtube video. I get a message saying "this video is private"
I would say the coil is bad by hearing that video 8)

ladylake

Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Skattracker2

Thanks.  I never thought about electrical.  Is there a way to check it?  Stupider question, where is it, I assume on the flywheel.

ladylake

Pull off the recoil and maybe a plastic cover and it will be right under it, they don't cost a lot and I think cheaper than another trip to a dealer who didn't figure it out even if it's not the coil.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

snowshoveler

Your ignition module is toast and your dealer should have his dealership pulled.
The module is under a lifetime warranty here in Canada. Not sure about your loaction.
At most in my shop you would pay for the labor.
Maybe 10 bucks total.
Regards Chris
International T5 dozer
JD M tractor
MF skidloader
Jonsered chainmill
Vintage Belsaw

346xp

Quote from: snowshoveler on August 13, 2015, 08:27:28 PM
Your ignition module is toast and your dealer should have his dealership pulled.
The module is under a lifetime warranty here in Canada. Not sure about your loaction.
At most in my shop you would pay for the labor.
Maybe 10 bucks total.
Regards Chris
Yes they are lifetime warranty on any husky or jerd sold from 1997 until present 8) If your dealer wont warranty it Id be looking for a honest dealer IMO 8)

ScottInCabot

I don't understand why this could be electrical...it runs(not well, but it's running).

You stated there is a 'little nipple has a crack'? 
Is this little nipple part of the AV boot from the carb to the intake?

Just curious, is the fuel tank venting.  Happened to me on a Stihl, giant suck could pull fuel from the tank.




Scott in Cabot
Timber framing RULES!

snowshoveler

The how it could be electrical comes with 20 years expierence in working in a Husqvarna shop.
The coils don't fail often but when they do they sometimes sound like that.
Right now its late in timing and the part inside that helps control excessive rpm has failed to only allow it to rev to 3 or 4 thousand rpm.
That is according to Husqvarna themselves.
Once you hear it once you will remember it from then.
As a few others beside me have noted.
Any dealer worth having will fix that right up for you.
Regards Chris
International T5 dozer
JD M tractor
MF skidloader
Jonsered chainmill
Vintage Belsaw

ladylake

Quote from: snowshoveler on August 15, 2015, 04:48:52 PM
The how it could be electrical comes with 20 years expierence in working in a Husqvarna shop.
The coils don't fail often but when they do they sometimes sound like that.
Right now its late in timing and the part inside that helps control excessive rpm has failed to only allow it to rev to 3 or 4 thousand rpm.
That is according to Husqvarna themselves.
Once you hear it once you will remember it from then.
As a few others beside me have noted.
Any dealer worth having will fix that right up for you.
Regards Chris


  Good reply Chris plus I'd go to a different dealer for sure as how could a dealer send a saw out running like that..   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

346xp

Quote from: snowshoveler on August 15, 2015, 04:48:52 PM
The how it could be electrical comes with 20 years expierence in working in a Husqvarna shop.
The coils don't fail often but when they do they sometimes sound like that.
Right now its late in timing and the part inside that helps control excessive rpm has failed to only allow it to rev to 3 or 4 thousand rpm.
That is according to Husqvarna themselves.
Once you hear it once you will remember it from then.
As a few others beside me have noted.
Any dealer worth having will fix that right up for you.
Regards Chris
Same I have worked at a husky/jonsered shop for 25+ years!!! there are some sounds you never forget 8) 8)

346xp

Also check the flywheel make sure the key  is not messed up 8) 8)

Skattracker2

Sorry for the late reply.  The dealer did not fix the saw and send it out that way.  They looked at it and told me it needed a carb.  I put on a new carb.  They never did mention anything about the coil though. 

They may not warrenty it because I rebuilt it and replaced the carb myself.  I could put the old jug and pistion back on the saw as there is nothing wrong with it, but I will just spend the $25 and order a new coil.

I will reply when I put in the new coil.

snowshoveler

Hello...
If you can handle putting a cylinder and piston in that saw...an ignition module is no problem for you.
Once you have all your saws repaired and then help out your neighbors...you might want to start your own shop.
It seems in your area there is a demand for an honest wrench that is willing to learn and help his customers along the way.
The knowledge on this forum for chainsaws is incredible. Somewhere someone has already had the problem and fixed it whatever it was.
Regards Chris
International T5 dozer
JD M tractor
MF skidloader
Jonsered chainmill
Vintage Belsaw

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