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28'x50' Barn, broke ground this weekend

Started by jimdad07, August 04, 2015, 11:46:10 PM

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Jim_Rogers

Quote from: nativewolf on January 17, 2017, 12:14:22 PM
Girt?  What's a girt?  Do you mean plate?  Or did you mispell grits?  Grits doesn't make any sense in this context but they are great with cheese.  Rarely a bad spot for some good cheese grits.

Nativewolf:
From timber framing glossary of terms:

QuoteGIRT. Horizontal timber joining wall posts at a level somewhere between sill and plate. A
wall girt runs parallel to the ridge, a bent girt perpendicular; either can support the edge of a floor frame.

Maybe you should/could read some of the glossary to become familiar with the terms.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

brendonv

I subscribed to this on youtube last night. Didnt know it was this project, cool!
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https://www.facebook.com/pages/Vorio-Tree-Experts-LLC/598083593556636

nativewolf

Quote from: Jim_Rogers on January 18, 2017, 11:42:40 AM
Quote from: nativewolf on January 17, 2017, 12:14:22 PM
Girt?  What's a girt?  Do you mean plate?  Or did you mispell grits?  Grits doesn't make any sense in this context but they are great with cheese.  Rarely a bad spot for some good cheese grits.

So you're saying it's not someone mispelling grits  ;D.  Not sure why that was funny to me but girts/grits and plates just hit my funny bone. 


Nativewolf:
From timber framing glossary of terms:

QuoteGIRT. Horizontal timber joining wall posts at a level somewhere between sill and plate. A
wall girt runs parallel to the ridge, a bent girt perpendicular; either can support the edge of a floor frame.

Maybe you should/could read some of the glossary to become familiar with the terms.

Jim Rogers
Liking Walnut

jimdad07

I wasn't going to put this one up here because most of you guys can blow me out of the water with what you know about the subject compared to my knowledge.  At the same time if a newbie is reading through I think it's worth a mention.  I'm sorry for the length of these but it's hard to pack it into a five minute block.

https://youtu.be/CAz-BXKmVe0
Hudson HFE 30 Homesteader bandmill w/28' of track
Couple tractors, a bunch of chainsaws and not enough time to use them.

GKPinUtah


jimdad07

Hudson HFE 30 Homesteader bandmill w/28' of track
Couple tractors, a bunch of chainsaws and not enough time to use them.

Rougespear

Wow, great tip on the chisel sharpening jig!  Thanks to both you and Dave.  Keep the videos coming.
Custom built Cook's-style hydraulic bandmill.

nativewolf

Nice beam!, definitely not a plate of grits.  Good to hear you helper keeping your production high so they can get their cabin finished.  Keep the video's coming, quite enjoyable.
Liking Walnut

jimdad07

Hudson HFE 30 Homesteader bandmill w/28' of track
Couple tractors, a bunch of chainsaws and not enough time to use them.

fishfighter

keep the videos coming. Some really good info. ;D

Ljohnsaw

Another nice video.  Did you use the router to cut the housing or did you chisel it out?  I saw you using the little speed square for your router guide to clean up the edge - nice!  Somewhere I saw a monster speed square (might have been HF) that would allow you to do the full width.  Did you ever think of making your own oversize (wooden) speed square for that task?
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

jimdad07

Quote from: fishfighter on January 26, 2017, 02:59:55 PM
keep the videos coming. Some really good info. ;D

I'll keep em coming, weather and busyness turned on me this week.  The next one will be knee braces and the following one will be wall post joinery.  Glad you guys are enjoying them.  If you guys see anything I'm doing wrong, please don't be shy about it.
Hudson HFE 30 Homesteader bandmill w/28' of track
Couple tractors, a bunch of chainsaws and not enough time to use them.

jimdad07

Quote from: ljohnsaw on January 26, 2017, 04:09:44 PM
Another nice video.  Did you use the router to cut the housing or did you chisel it out?  I saw you using the little speed square for your router guide to clean up the edge - nice!  Somewhere I saw a monster speed square (might have been HF) that would allow you to do the full width.  Did you ever think of making your own oversize (wooden) speed square for that task?

I cheated and used the router for the whole thing.  I keep meaning to buy a big speed square and forget every time I go to the hardware store.  The wooden one is a great idea, think I'll do that.  I use a router to cut my tie beam housings also, you'll like that one.
Hudson HFE 30 Homesteader bandmill w/28' of track
Couple tractors, a bunch of chainsaws and not enough time to use them.

Ljohnsaw

For my joist pockets, I'll probably make a frame template, place that on the beams an just route it out.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

jimdad07

Quote from: ljohnsaw on January 26, 2017, 09:40:45 PM
For my joist pockets, I'll probably make a frame template, place that on the beams an just route it out.

I tried that as well but found I was quicker with the chisel, think my little Porter Cable router is a touch small.  I have a 3hp Milwaukee router but the bottom plate is broken.
Hudson HFE 30 Homesteader bandmill w/28' of track
Couple tractors, a bunch of chainsaws and not enough time to use them.

Jim_Rogers

Using a router is quick, if it is powerful enough to make the cut.
Several things you need to watch out for. One is if the timber is rough sawn the dimension my vary and you may need to set the depth of the router bit to the line, not just assume it is 1/2".
Next when you rout out a big area you are removing the support for the router base. Sometimes the router can tip because there isn't enough support. If this happens it maybe necessary to attach an "offset" router base.
Jigs and templates that will support the router are great and can be made to do what you need to have done.
Using a router means you have to have electrical power at the work site. Sometimes that isn't possible and you may have to have a generator going.

Noise and dust are also a concern. Be sure to wear proper personal protection equipment.

Router safety is a must. Some of those bits rotate at 10,000 rpms and can cut you real fast if you get them too close to yourself.
One basic router safety is to not pick it up with the bit spinning. Wait a second until it stops and you reduce the risk to cutting yourself or getting your clothing caught in the spinning bit.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

jimdad07

First set of cabinets I ever built I was using a cheap Craftsman router.  Tightened the 3/8" rabbitting bit I was using down as tight as I could, that style router has the push button stop for setting your bits.  But came flying out and took a chunk of my right middle finger with it, just skin fortunately.  Moral of the story: use a router with a good collet that has a backer but to tighten the shank in with.  That router went to the garbage after that.
Hudson HFE 30 Homesteader bandmill w/28' of track
Couple tractors, a bunch of chainsaws and not enough time to use them.

Jim_Rogers

I learned on thing when I read the router handbook. The end of the bit shank, just before the cutter has a radius cut to it. If the collet is tightened down on the radius the bit can easily come loose and fall out. To prevent that from happening the author suggested to add a black rubber o-ring around the shank. Slide it all the way up to the cutter, and it will not go all the way up as the radius forces it back down. You insert the bit until the o-ring touches the collet and then you tighten it up. This prevents the bit from being tightened up in the wrong spot.
I put o-rings on all my router bits.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

jimdad07

Quote from: Jim_Rogers on January 28, 2017, 02:07:35 AM
I learned on thing when I read the router handbook. The end of the bit shank, just before the cutter has a radius cut to it. If the collet is tightened down on the radius the bit can easily come loose and fall out. To prevent that from happening the author suggested to add a black rubber o-ring around the shank. Slide it all the way up to the cutter, and it will not go all the way up as the radius forces it back down. You insert the bit until the o-ring touches the collet and then you tighten it up. This prevents the bit from being tightened up in the wrong spot.
I put o-rings on all my router bits.

Jim Rogers

I know the groove you speak of.  I had the bit out of the collet just past that groove and tightened it as hard as I could holding in the tiny little metal stop.  The problem with the stop on that model is you can't put a backer on the collet.  I won't own one now without a backing but for the collet.
Hudson HFE 30 Homesteader bandmill w/28' of track
Couple tractors, a bunch of chainsaws and not enough time to use them.

peterpaul

Nice videos, just found them and enjoyed them very much.   

Regarding templates for using a router to cut housings.  Am I correct that if the template is laid flat on the non-reference face of an out of square timber than the housing will also be out of square?  It would appear to me, for example, that if the timber is 1/8" out of square and the router template is laid flat on that surface and not shimmed parallel to the reference face, then the housing face would be paralell to the out of square surface, not the reference face.  This would result in throwing off the overall assembled dimension, resulting in a joint that is open on one side. Is this correct?
Woodmizer LT15, Kubota 4330 GST, Wallenstein FX 85, Timberwolf TW6, homemade firewood conveyor

Dave Shepard

That is correct. Chop it with an axe to within a 1/16", or 1/8" of the line and finish with a chisel or slick. Or kerf it with a circ saw, but be sure to set the depth to the shallower line.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

jimdad07

Glad you enjoyed them, as soon as the weather breaks I'll be making more on the barn.  I've been working on making some tables, a waste oil burner for the shop and now I'm working on a sawdust burner for the woodshop on the second floor of the barn.  Just trying to stay enthused until I can get back to cutting joinery.
Hudson HFE 30 Homesteader bandmill w/28' of track
Couple tractors, a bunch of chainsaws and not enough time to use them.

Dave Shepard

I was thinking about this discussion this week regarding housings on the non-reference face. As peterpaul mentioned, if the reference face was out of square, then your housing wouldn't be true to the layout. The other issue would be that you need to scoop out the center of the housing so it doesn't force the joint apart as the timber dries. This is hand tool work, unless you use an angle grinder or something like that. Someone asked me if I really chop to within an 1/8". I do. The final clean up is done with my grip choked up on the handle. This housing is 16" wide and 1.5" deep in white oak. First pic is the axe work, second is cleaned up with the 2" framing chisel.



  

 
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Ljohnsaw

How is this beam/post going to be oriented?  I can't quite grasp how this housing is going to work with how the tenon is cut.  Also, I see a saw kerf on the back side?  Will that affect the use (was that an error)?
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Dave Shepard

That is the other half of the housing. It hasn't been chopled yet, as it will get done while standing on the other side. This is a purlin post, and the mortise is for an anchorbeam.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

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