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New to the Milling

Started by daniel372, July 20, 2015, 11:58:05 AM

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daniel372

Hey guys i am new to the forum. My name is daniel i am from central ms area. I am here to learn as much as i can. Ive tryed searching for a few of my general questions but most people arent milling for what im doing.

I bought a lil saw mill i have a bunch of free wood my friends have giving me. I saw mainly pine. I am planning on using the wood to build my house next year. I have started off making 2x4s for the house. i got few questions if you dont mind helping me.
1. i am letting the wood air dry at the moment i have stacked with stickers about 20 inches apart and the wood is under a lil lean to on a barn. After the end of the day i put some heavy flat wood i cut on top of the pile. is this ok? i may have to build a kiln later to dry it out fully.
2. the wood is starting to turn gray is this ok?
3. this wood should be ok to build house with ? i am cutting to spec of what you buy 2x4 at store for.
also i have about 30 pine logs unmilled stacked up and they are starting to get the white pine weivils in them just at the top is there a way to prevent this ?
any suggestions would be appreciated.




daniel372


beenthere

Welcome to the Forestry Forum. Pls click on your forum name, and it will take you to where you can update your profile and add location... helps with answers and such.

You have a good goal, to get lumber for your new house.

For starters, get a better base for your air drying stacks and get it higher off the ground.
Second, you will want to have your stickers at or very near to the ends of your 2x4  material to best control being free to warp as the wood dries. No spaces needed between the pieces as shown in pic.

Keep posting pics as you go along, and you will get plenty of helpful hints as you go along. Hopefully that is what you want, to avoid ending up with material that is not useful to your project.

Estimate a materials list of things you will need for your house. Then you can select logs that meet the criteria and have drying stacks that contain the building material needed first, second, etc. Don't want to have to tear piles apart to get material needed on the bottom.

Here is a link to a forum project showing some air drying stacks of building material sawn for a home in Texas.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,69061.420.html

I believe reply #436 shows lumber drying stacks with pretty good sticker placement. That material is all in a home now for member "dablack" and family.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

deadfall

In a cold climate or hot, make your outside walls as thick as is practical for the timber you can get.  Everything you invest in R value will pay you back in short order when it comes time to heat or cool your house. 

I'm sawing for a shop I may eventually have to hole up and hunker down in.  I'm making as many 2X8 studs as I can manage.  I didn't have the timber to do it all, so what's not 2X8 will be at least 2X6.  I'll put the thinner walls to the south.
W-M LT40HD -- Siding Attachment -- Lathe-Mizer -- Ancient PTO Buzz Saw

============================

Happy for no reason.

Kbeitz

Laws must be different in your state.
Down here in Pa. we are not aloud to build homes with rough cut lumber.

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

deadfall

Quote from: Kbeitz on July 20, 2015, 12:18:32 PM
Laws must be different in your state.
Down here in Pa. we are not aloud to build homes with rough cut lumber.

For our own protection of course.

Anyone seen the movie, Still Mine?

Trailer:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mv_Rl0CBPNs

Full movie:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hvzStsgyVAQ
W-M LT40HD -- Siding Attachment -- Lathe-Mizer -- Ancient PTO Buzz Saw

============================

Happy for no reason.

Magicman

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, daniel372.  Yup, adding your location to your profile helps with future questions.  :)

Air drying is all that is necessary for your SYP framing lumber, but I would suggest a space and some tin roofing to keep the direct sun and also rain off.  Cabin Addition
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

daniel372

Thank you for all the responses. magicmike the wood is currently under a roof owning and avoids rain thats why i dont have tin on top. so do i need to space the lumber out or no spacing ?

daniel372

Quote from: deadfall on July 20, 2015, 12:17:11 PM
In a cold climate or hot, make your outside walls as thick as is practical for the timber you can get.  Everything you invest in R value will pay you back in short order when it comes time to heat or cool your house. 

I'm sawing for a shop I may eventually have to hole up and hunker down in.  I'm making as many 2X8 studs as I can manage.  I didn't have the timber to do it all, so what's not 2X8 will be at least 2X6.  I'll put the thinner walls to the south.


do you think i should stack my wood out in the open sun or will dry ok under that owning ?

Magicman

The awning is fine and as long as it is properly stickered you are good.  We seem to have our very own kiln, especially that past week or so.  Air circulation is the key.   magicmike  magicman  :) 
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

daniel372

sorry about that i read the name wrong. Do you think it will air dry fine under the awning? its in a shade but all the sides are open. Do you think i should stack it in the sun with tin on top. any opinon is greatly appreciated. I will have enough wood to do pretty much anything i want to build. How long should i expect the wood to air dry to get down to 15% I have been told that 15% wood is ok to start building a house with. is this accurate information?  ... it has been stacked for 2 months and the moisture level is still over 40% according to my moisture meter.

daniel372

magicman i see that you are from brookhaven. I am not far from you at all is there anyway i can call you and ask you a few questions since you are so close to me you may have a lot of general knowledge that i need to know.

justallan1

Daniel welcome to the Forestry Forum.
I noticed that you said you were sawing to store bought size lumber. If you aren't already adding a bit for shrinkage, you may get with one of the sawyers local to you and figure out what, if any, you want to add.
Just trying to help out a bit. :)

daniel372

Dang i did not think about that ... We are cutting them 3 1/2 by 1 1/2 ... How much does a pine board usually shrink... So the wood ive done so far isnt worth nothing now ?

Magicman

I would not consider moving the lumber as it sounds like you are fine.  Actually I am very surprised that the moisture is still that high.  The logs must have been fresh felled when you sawed them.  Do you have access to a large fan that would increase the air circulation?

Yes, we could talk, but the only dumb questions here on the FF are unasked questions.  When they are asked openly, everyone gets a shot at answering with a different view and everyone learns.

Unlike "other" forums, you will never be taken down here and ridiculed for not knowing or asking a question that was asked a week ago.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

daniel372

I have been cutting my 2x4s 3 1/2 by 1 1/2 are they not useable now because i didn't compensate for shrinkage?

How much should i add when cutting wood to compensate for shrinkage?

my moisture meter goes up to 39% and the wood hits that right now so im assuming its over. The wood is stacked under the awning the sides and front is open but its very shaded so doesnt get hot. i cut these logs down and stacked them then milled them. They were stacked about 2 months before milling.


how much weight do i stack on top of the pile ? i cut some flat lumber around 4x8s and put it on the pile at the end of the day for weight. is this ok?

ScottInCabot

Have you considered sawing 'larger' pieces?
Timber framing with large timber is 'doable'....and very appealing in home construction.  And it will last longer then we will on this planet.  Think 8"x8", or larger if you can get the material.


I like using 1"x1" stickers for spacing.
I like strapping my 'piles' to reduce the amount of warpage during the drying process.



Scott in Cabot
Timber framing RULES!

beenthere

Scott
Is that Cabot as in AR ?

Welcome to the Forestry Forum. Click your user name and you will see where you can update your profile and include your location.. then we know for sure. ;)

When you strap your piles,  how do you keep the strapping tight over time while the wood shrinks?
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

daniel372

Quote from: beenthere on July 20, 2015, 03:27:08 PM
Scott
Is that Cabot as in AR ?

Welcome to the Forestry Forum. Click your user name and you will see where you can update your profile and include your location.. then we know for sure. ;)

When you strap your piles,  how do you keep the strapping tight over time while the wood shrinks?

i have access to the lumber no problem. to be honest i dont know where i would start as far a 8x8 post. i am not a builder and have never framed a house. i plan on just supplying the builder with the material that is why im trying to get the best suggestions i can.

AnthonyW

Quote from: Kbeitz on July 20, 2015, 12:18:32 PM
Laws must be different in your state.
Down here in Pa. we are not aloud to build homes with rough cut lumber.

I wonder when that started. I know of a whole bunch of homes in PA built with rough cut lumber.

Morale of the story is to check with your state/town before you start sawing 2x4s.
'97 Wood-Mizer LT25 All Manual with 15HP Kohler

daniel372

Quote from: AnthonyW on July 20, 2015, 04:18:39 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on July 20, 2015, 12:18:32 PM
Laws must be different in your state.
Down here in Pa. we are not aloud to build homes with rough cut lumber.

I wonder when that started. I know of a whole bunch of homes in PA built with rough cut lumber.

Morale of the story is to check with your state/town before you start sawing 2x4s.

just checked with them they said i can use rough cut lumber i just have to have it graded with and provide a certificate.

Kbeitz

Quote from: AnthonyW on July 20, 2015, 04:18:39 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on July 20, 2015, 12:18:32 PM
Laws must be different in your state.
Down here in Pa. we are not aloud to build homes with rough cut lumber.

I wonder when that started. I know of a whole bunch of homes in PA built with rough cut lumber.

Morale of the story is to check with your state/town before you start sawing 2x4s.

Guess you could use it if you had it graded...
This is copyed form the code book
.
Studs shall be a minimum No. 3, standard or stud grade lumber
dimension lumber for studs, plates and headers shall be identified by a grade mark of a lumber grading or inspection agency that has been approved by an accreditation body that complies with DOC PS 20. In lieu of a grade mark, a certification of inspection issued by a lumber grading or inspection agency meeting the requirements of this section shall be accepted.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Magicman

Quote from: daniel372 on July 20, 2015, 04:29:34 PMjust checked with them they said i can use rough cut lumber i just have to have it graded with and provide a certificate.
That could be the "fly in the ointment".  I believe that the procedure is;  Sawmills pay a fee for the right to use the inspection bureau's stamp after the inspector has been certified by that bureau.  For example, SPIB = Southern Pine Inspection Bureau owns the trademark and are paid by the sawmills to use it. 
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

deadfall

I can smell the corruption from here when the powerful gang up to help keep us safe.  My county hasn't got a stoplight in it yet, but the building codes got here.  We're all modern now, boy!  That's why I'm building an outbuilding.   They aren't going after barns yet.
W-M LT40HD -- Siding Attachment -- Lathe-Mizer -- Ancient PTO Buzz Saw

============================

Happy for no reason.

gww

deadfall
I actually did watch the movie you posted today.  I love where I live.  I am probly in the least regulated county in the state.  Who knows for how long.  I did agree with the one sentament that came across in the movie.  It was don't ask for permission before doing just for forgiveness if some one takes notice of what you are doing.  I have heard of horror stories where people had do destroy stuff that was already built.  In my experieance it usually goes the other way if nobody has it out for you.  I usually just jump in and do what I want and will defend my actions if and when questioned. 

So far so good though it could be cause I live where I do.
gww

deadfall

What's wrong with me? Too old?  Why does it seem to me we should all have the right to provide our own shelter, in a manner we can afford, on land we nominally own and pay the taxes on?  All they should say about it is that you can't represent it as being to code if you go to sell or rent it out (and the price reflects this).  If it's all transparent, whose business is it but those involved? 

Now I'm going out to edge some flitches for the neighbor's kid's tiny house.  Rough cut western red cedar for a nice light and strong frame.  No code for those... yet.  Built the floor last week.  It's Doug fir.



Got the insulation in and the plywood on at dark.

W-M LT40HD -- Siding Attachment -- Lathe-Mizer -- Ancient PTO Buzz Saw

============================

Happy for no reason.

WV Sawmiller

Might never have any problems in your lifetime but might be a bear to sell if not built to code.

(May be a way to get even with your kids - leave them a white elephant they can't unload as their inheritance. Then again - they are likely the ones deciding which nursing home you go into).
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

Magicman

I am only a few counties South of the OP and thankfully the "codes" have not reached me yet.  I have had to turn down several framing lumber jobs in his county.   :-\
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

4x4American

Magicmike has a good thread somewhere on sawing framing lumber
Boy, back in my day..

East ky logging

Thankfully we don't have those codes here where I live yet either. I can't say I ever saw a house fall down because of what kind of lumber it used if it was properly built. And when mother nature comes through she doesn't care if the lumber has a stamp on it or not.
They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety- Benjamin Franklin

daniel372

thanks for all the replys... I think it ridiculous to. i am going to make a few calls today and see if it will even be worth it. The building dept told me the minimum grade is 2 for my wood.

Kbeitz

What does it cost to get wood graded ?
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

deadfall

Quote from: East ky logging on July 21, 2015, 06:04:38 AM
I can't say I ever saw a house fall down because of what kind of lumber it used if it was properly built. And when mother nature comes through she doesn't care if the lumber has a stamp on it or not.

The building I am wanting to build, the shop/barn, is here on top of the middle of the Cascadia Subduction Zone Fault.  It has a nominal repetition period of 300 years, with evidence of 8.5 to 9.5 Richter events.  The last one happened 315.6 years ago.  I am endeavoring to build a building to withstand such an event. I am at about 300 feet elevation, over thirty miles from the sea, and have found a cow shark tooth 500 yards from here, and a hundred feet higher.  We humans can get pretty caught up in our views of things, and pretty haughty when given a little authority.  Few people alive today have much of a clue where Mother Nature's limits of power end.  The good folks looking out for our safety should just let us have our fun.
W-M LT40HD -- Siding Attachment -- Lathe-Mizer -- Ancient PTO Buzz Saw

============================

Happy for no reason.

Nomad

Quote from: Kbeitz on July 21, 2015, 09:03:48 AM
What does it cost to get wood graded ?

     IIRC (and I may not ::))  The SPIB wants $500 per day, plus expenses.  That's Southern Pine Inspection Bureau.
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
WoodMizer LT50HDD51-WR
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