Advice on skidding logs with a backhoe

[gww]

I believe they will be starting on a lake build for my brother very soon.  I think they are going to work with us a bit on getting some of the trees out.  I would be curious on what the opinions are on getting the logs out in best shape using a standard back hoe.

My thoughts on the use of the logs will depend on how many big ones that are salvaged.

One thought is to haul the best to a mill and take the money and for me to saw the dogs with my hobby mill. 

A differrent thought is to keep them and try to saw all of them.

The way I have used the back hoe so far is to cut the log to whatever lenth I am going to use and then wrap a chain around it and carry it with the bucket.

The builder says he is going to start by clearing the really small stuff.  He mentioned laying down the bigger stuff and then backing off a bit to let us salvage what we wanted.

I guess my questions would be
1.  would it be better to try and move the longest logs that the back hoe can handle to a staging area and then decide what they will make log wise when we have the time to do it correctly?

2.  Is using the loader and a chain the fastest most efficiant way to use a backhoe for skidding loggs?

My mill as it is, has a 13' 9" max cut length as it is now.  If selling to a mill and getting a long strait tree, maby 16' would be worth more money.

Nobody involved really cares how I handle it though if I did sell to a mill it could help a bit on cost.

My uncle is going to help for free if I pay $200 to move his backhoe and my dad also has a backhoe on location.  It will be between 3-4 acres and I bet their are (inexperiance guess) $2000 or more worth of good trees.

I know I have circled this subject in a few other threads but it is now going to happen this month or next and I need to get my mind right.

Any thoughts that you might want to give to a guy that really has zero experiance would be appretiated.
Thank you
gww

[Hilltop366]

Backhoes don't steer well with weight on the back fastened to the rear bucket, a dry short run might be ok.

I have picked logs up with the rear bucket and turned them to the side and drove out the woods before but then you only get one log at a time.

I guess you could chain a log on each side to the front bucket and the rear leg and drive out with the logs off the ground to keep them clean?

[fishfighter]

I use my bucket on my hoe. No trouble using straps if you have hooks welded on the top side of the bucket.

If you get in a hurry and have the space, I would stage them by grade and trees. Seal the ends. Take trash trees to put down first to stack the logs on top on them to get the good logs off the ground.

Saw them babies up after. 8)

[tmarch]

With your equipment listed I'd move ALL the logs out of the way and then sort and sell or keep whatever you want to cut.  Easier to do it when you aren't in a hurry and can actually think it out. 

[gww]

Hill..
Dads back hoe won't steer going up a hill with no load due to weight in the back.  It is not 4 wheel drive.  It is slow as mollassis. 

Fish...
Hope you are doing well.  I have carried a 9 foot 26 inch diamiter on bigg end log chained to the bucket and a 13 foot 19 inch diamiter log (not at the same time)  and it is strong enough.  I picked them up and carried them.  I do have the helpful quick connect places to put a chain to.  I do wonder if I want to leave the loggs as long as the tree and cut to length in the staging area? 

I am thinking that if I cut the logs in the woods that I should try to drag the small enough ones with the kabota which I think is only about 30 horse power or less.  I have not had to drag a log yet cause I have been taking out one at a time and didn't want the dirt on them.  I believe I do need to move as fast as I safely can.  I though in places that my truck would go that it might work to drag. It is a dodge deisel. 

The tracktor and truck would be fastest but also maby dirty the logs more and not carry as much or as long.


I also thought that in the places I can get a trailer and truck I might load 4 logs at a time on the trailer.  Some of the places will be pretty hairy and those might take the lake dozer to move if he will.

I have lots of staging area.  I will probly put it in a 5 acre feild that has access to the black top.  I might get to where I have to move twice due to really needing to move fast.  It is not that I don't believe the lake guy won't charge more if I slow him down to much.  (says he will work with us)  I don't want him to be put in a bad position. 

How small should I try to save?  except for ceader I have yet to cut a log less then 11 inch diamiter.  Should I save to that small/smaller?  I would say there are some good 20 to 25 inch logs of mixed quality.  Maby some bigger but I hate to say cause the last 26 inch log I cut I thought was about 40 inches till I measured it.

Thank you for the ideal to put some junk logs under my good ones.

I have been cutting long and painting the ends with latex paint with the intent to shorten when used.  Maby not the best but what I have lots of.

I guess one of my big questions is should I cut 16 foot if the tree lets me knowing I will waste 4 foot if I make lumber on my mill and don't sell any to other mills. 

Dad thinks if we can come up with ways to use the wood that I should just cut it on my mill.  They are the ones spending the money on the lake with my brother so I don't have to sell the logs but it might make sence to sell if the logs were nice enough.  I cut pretty slow on my mill.  I am excited about getting enough logs to keep me busy though.

You can tell I am excited but I also know how slow I have been getting logs so far and really need to get these laying somewhere out of the way as fast as posible.

Thanks for the comments
gww

[gww]

T
Yes I agree move to a field and then worry.  I am worried on the moveing part and how to do that fast.  Second, I am worried on what to move.  A log as long as I can carry or try to cut to lenght and get out.  I spent two days reading the forest logging publication that covers grading and lenght and drying, bla bla bla.  I retained very little cause I don't always understand what I am reading or the jargan till I read it 100 times.  I did notice they where using 24 foot logs in there examples of how to split up for grade.

Thanks
gww

[tmarch]

Move everything as long as you can and then sort for length, saves time and again worry about the length later.  If the mills will take 16 footers fine if not your mill will.  Just remember to cut long 16 foot =17 foot etc.

[fishfighter]

Move everything as long as you can and then sort for length, saves time and again worry about the length later.  If the mills will take 16 footers fine if not your mill will.  Just remember to cut long 16 foot =17 foot etc.

For sure, cut long. If just stacking, a 30hp tractor will not have a problem dragging a log. If it has a 3 point hitch, use that along with a chain to lift one end and drag away. I use a little ford 2000 tractor at times to drag logs too.

[gww]

t and fish
I don't know what the mills will take yet as I have not checked.  I don't take but 13' 9" right now.  I guess I am going to get the trees dirty and drag.
Thank you guys for the comments.
gww

[plowboyswr]

When we had an area cleared and wanted to keep the logs we had the crawler operator push the trees out then I would walk in and cut the root ball of and limb it, hook on and drag tree length into the wide open pasture while the crawler shoved the refuse into the pile and lay me another tree down. Then after the operator went home for the day I would go through and buck everything to lenght, decide what to cull, make fire wood out of,ect. There are going to be some trees that you don't  want to do anything with so the easiest thing is to grab some spray paint and mark the ones you want to keep first. If the crawler has other things to keep busy with the better. Once you get the hang of the timing of how fast he can work it won't be to hard to stay out of each others way

[gww]

Plowboy
Very helpfull post.  Did you get a lot of dirt on the logs doing it one tree at a time?  If I was not saving the trees would the dozer normaly move one tree at a time if it is big?  Did you mark the trees before any work started?  The field I would like to stage in would be above the lake but most likely the brush would be moved down to the center and mostly burned though there is some talk of using some for fish cover.

Still I will need to get with the guy running the dozer.  I believe the plan is for him to start by taking out all the small stuff first.  Only the bigger stuff will be left if I understand correctly.  They will then follow up taking the big stuff out.  I am not sure yet if they do this with bigger equiptment or the same that they used to do the small stuff.  I have only talked to them one time prior to them submitting thier bid.
Thanks
gww

[Beavertooth]

Just keep in mind to get the best lumber you need to mill your best trees. 

[plowboyswr]

Gww the crawler that was working for us was a loader and he could push on the upper part of the trees then hook the the root ball with the bucket. I was hooking on the butt ends with the three point of the tractor and picking them up and we were keeping everything down to the size of my leg for fire wood so that only the trim stuff was on the ground. So the logs stayed fairly clean. Also this was in the dry time of year in an area that doesn't  have much rock and by the time we got done bucking, loading, and unloading the dirt that was there had been knocked off. Yeah we marked the trees we wanted left, and the ones I cut and we took the operator through and showed him to make it absolutely clear. Everything else in the area was fair game for the crawler. Every crawler operator that I have seen works one tree at a time.

[fishfighter]

One thing to keep in mine is that if you stack the logs and seal the ends, keep them off the ground in storage, after a year or so, the bark will start falling off along with the dirt. ;D

Do you have any plans for any of the finish lumber or a place to store it out the weather once sawed?

Marking trees to keep, 99 cent cans of spray paint, painted about 5' up so the operator can see the marks.

You can hire someone to come in and do a walk thru to get a better idea of what the timber is worth. 

[justallan1]

If it were me I'd have the equipment operator let me know the very minute that I had enough room to work around him and go like heck bucking and dragging for all your worth. I wouldn't grade a thing until I was chased off the worksite, then go and do your grading and staging when you have everything that you possibly can and the rush is over.
In my opinion if your diesel truck is 4WD it should be able to pull faster than a backhoe or small Kabota. My '93 ¾ ton diesel will drag 50' and longer logs without a problem. Just leave enough on the butt to lop off when you go to stage and grade because that first few feet will be be plumb full of dirt.
I hope it all works out for you.

[gww]

I talked to my brother last night and the way he remebers the conversation, they where going to clear the small, then knock over the big, then leave and give us a chance to salvage what we want.  The guy building the lake is the cousen of the guy that is farming dad acrage.  I believe as long as I don't add a lot extra of work to them they would push the trees to a flat area to work on.  I just need to talk to them.

The trees are some of them in a hilly area.  There is a flat feild above and below the wooded patch. The above has good road access.

I do not have a good place to store the cut lumber.  We may have a use for some of it as they want to build a small shed/cabin and a dock.  There is some discussion on wether the wood can be used on the dock or wether we would have to pay to have it treated or just buy box store treated lumber.  My thoughts are that at least for the decking on the frame of the dock the oak could be used cause if it turns out a mistake you would have easy access to replace boards.

My lean to is about full though I may in a month or so be able to buck stack some in a barn or something and start over.  My brother has two lean toos in the woods that used to selter animals that are in pretty bad shape but would probly be good for stickering a lot of lumber.  I have been cutting my boards close to finnished lumber specs, incase we need to mix and match with bought lumber due to short falls.

If I don't move my mill to the trees and cut at my house, I do have a power washer.

Mostly, some of his trees are nice enough that it was killing me (now that I am interested) to see them just piled to rot or burn.  Lots of small trees but it is on a creek bottom and has been cut long enough ago that there is some good timber also.

It really doesn't matter about the value of the trees cause it has some value and I wanted to save them anyway.  I do believe there is some value to some of them and (no expert oppinion) but am thinking if hauled to a mill, probly a couple thousand.  The bad part is he has a more then normal percentage of piggnut and hickory.

I can't really tell the species of trees very well so I don't know what is all there. It is only at most 4 acres. The trees are smallest on the real steep parts of the land. 

I am thinking that the $200 to move my uncles backhoe may not be worth it except it gives me one skilled operator who said he would help for free and whos backhoe is twice or more (in his hands ) faster then dads.

I could see a backhoe being really useful in the staging area after the logs are there and expesialy if I move the logs to my house.  I think finding faster ways to drag to the staging area is smartest even if it is hooking to the dodge and just flooring it.  (3/4 ton 4x4)  Some of this could depend on what the ground looks like after the small stuff is out of the way.  Dads back hoe is really helpless unless it is perfectly dry and if not working from a stationary position, flat.

Dad has about 7 or 8 chainsaws that need sharpened between now and then also.

I was thinking that the lake guy would have enough comon sence to know a good tree but may mark them.  I have a son inlaw that has a forestry degree and is an intermedium between land owners and loggers.  He live three hours away though and has a new baby and I probly won't bother him.  He had his chance while turkey hunting and didn't get it walked through.  I don't care totaly cause I am such a poor worker and believe there may be some waste when I run out of steam.  I am going to do my best to get as much as I can but my experiance so far is I am pretty slow.

It has taken me a couple months to cut about 20 or so logs (and building a little shed).  I have never yet got more then two trees cut and moved to the mill in one day.

I know this is a little differrent cause I will just be dragging out of the way to work on later.  It doesn't change the fact that I am still a wimp.

I thank you guys for bringing up things that I might not have known.  Like bark and dirt might go with time if I cut slow. 

I appretiate all comments.
Thanks
gww

[Ox]

gww - I don't have much more to add to this thread but I wanted to let you know I was following along.  What the other guys said and what you have come to conclude sounds right to me.

The way I look at things sometimes is right or wrong, at least I'm taking action and not sitting on my hands.  It all works out in the end.  After all, don't we always work with what we've got?  If all you've got is a hammer then everything looks like a nail.

[gww]

Two things.

1.  Some of the trees might actually be too big to work up on my mill and so there may be some selling.  We did take a rout to a staging area that I can get my truck and trailer to and move maby four or five logs at a time.  It will have to be dry and is pretty far but should be easy. So we can stage the trees in two good areas.

2.  Is it worth saving sycamore and elm for cutting?  A couple of big ones but I don't know if they make lumber or not. 

Out of all dads chain saws, there is only three that are in good enough shape too sharpen.  So I will have four saws to work with before having to work on them.

After looking it over again, I am becomming more confidant that things are going to go pretty good.  The worst part is that it is going to be 1000 degrees for as long as I can see.  I bet things get going in the next few days.  The ground is drying much faster them I thought it would.

I will try to remember to take a picture or two of what we end up with (maby).

Thanks for the help.
gww

Ps Hi Ox

[Ianab]

2.  Is it worth saving sycamore and elm for cutting?  A couple of big ones but I don't know if they make lumber or not. 

Although they can present some challenges to saw and dry they are very good woodworking woods. Quarter saw the sycamore to show the grain, and cut the elm a bit oversize so you can machine out any movement during drying.

Do some searches and you will find some very nice stuff made with sycamore or elm.

That's what I meant about saving "non-commercial" species to saw yourself. If the mill doesn't want sycamore, or aren't paying much for it, then that's something you can saw and use yourself (or sell to local woodworkers later).  You should still end up with some nice logs in the "saw ourself" stack, just they are ones the mill isn't going to pay good money for, for various reasons.

This is a pic WDH posted a while back of a Q-sawn sycamore board.



So it's certainly worth messing with 

[gww]

Ianab
Cool, thanks for the post.  I have no ideal about the mills around here or if there even are any.  I sure have seen two loads of impressive logs being hauled by others recently.  One was like a double tracktor trailer like rig with both trailers stacked full of what looked like all big logs and the other was a grain type truck with about 4 rows of logs that were also big so I know some one is buying.  The last time I stoped by a mill was 25 years ago and at that time they where paying the same for everything they accepted regardless of tree species.   I am not sure what the market might be or how to cut the logs for it as I haven't got that far and am not totally sure how to start looking.  I got busy but was going to try and do an internet search and I might call and see if my son in law has some kind of list though mostly he works out of springfield.

So if anyone has ideals on marketing the logs or where mills are let me know.  When I locate one I will ask what they pay and what they want.  As I drive by places that used to have mills, I am going to see if they are still there.

I do have one flaw in my mill when it comes to quarter sawing.  I can only cut seven inches deep with the mill so making large cants with it won't work well unless I don't want wide boards or use a chain saw which I have never did yet.

I thank you very much for your answer.  I did do a search of this site with the word sycamore but your answer was better.  About the elm.  I only mentioned it cause both trees are white and I wasn't 100 percent sure of my trees.  I believe it is sycamore cause all the elm died of 30 years ago and these are live trees. 

My dad and me where looking and he told me they where sycamore but I couldn't remember when I typed the post you answered.

Lots of big dang hickory too.
gww

[sandsawmill14]

Just keep in mind to get the best lumber you need to mill your best trees. 

x2 

[gww]

sand....
I am very excited to get some logs in one place that I can saw at will.  I do think that at some point I will run out of places to store and things to build and will not be a salesman and get rid of them.  I just retired 2 years ago and don't want another job but don't mind a really busy hoby and would like to be able to build what I want when I want.  I do know though, if you store the boards and never use them you have to store them good and they may go bad.  I have seen recently on craigs list a couple of bulk sales where a hobiest finally got tired and wanted rid of his boards.  Some looked like it would be cheaper then the gas to cut my own.

I don't know the happy medium yet.  I also think for the type of construction I do that the really nice furnature grade stuff will sorta be wasted.  I am greedy and want them all but am not sure with my mill and plans that that makes sence.  I think the prime trees might (maby) make better use if sold and I cut the dogs.  I really don't know.  I want to get up and cut one log a day around my other stuff with out having to go get trees.  I am enthralled with the cutting.  I want to make enough money to buy blades and another motor when mine blows up but don't really want more then that cause then it is a job.  I would like this hoby to pay for its self till I get tired of it but don't want a job.  Same with my chickens, bees and solar so far.  I pretend I am danial boon and living off the land if I can do what I like for free.

I really don't know what I am going to do.  I am going to look at what we end up with, think about my and my mills capabilities, then make a decision.

I want to cut the best but may not need the best wood for my uses.  Right now I want to cut it all but that may be stupid of me.  I have found when building that 20 logs really don't go that far.  I do already have about another 8x10 sheds worth of boards all ready cut and am not tired of it yet to my wifes dismay.
Cheers
gww

[plowboyswr]

If you want to sell part of your logs stage them in tree lenght. Check your local paper and Craigslist for timber buyers (I see adds all the time) most of them will come out and look at the logs decide where to buck them. Then scale them on the spot. Their trucks will come pick 'em up later. At least that's how all the logs we've sold have been done.

[gww]

plowboy
I tried it.  There are two listings.
Thanks for the suggestion. 
gww

[Ianab]

I do have one flaw in my mill when it comes to quarter sawing.  I can only cut seven inches deep with the mill so making large cants with it won't work well unless I don't want wide boards or use a chain saw which I have never did yet.

Looked at your gallery and I see what you mean about the mill, bit of limitation with the cut depth.

But I think you could still cut some Q-sawn boards though.

What I would do is open the top of the log like normal, until you have a clear face. Maybe take a board or 2, depending on the log size. Then cut off a 7" D, and put it aside.
Flip the log and repeat.
Now the central third of the log can just be sawn "through and though" Later you edge and rip out the pith that's in the boards, and will be left with good Q-sawn boards.
Then load the D piece back on the mill, standing upright. Saw some narrow rift sawn boards, some 7" wide Q-sawn boards, and some more rift sawn.
Repeat with the second D.

It wont be perfect, but no quarter sawing method is. It's also more work, but again any method that involves a band saw takes some extra handling, no matter how you do it.

It would just be pity to cut up a perfectly nice sycamore for firewood, just because you don't have a ready market for the log, when a bit of messing around can get you some good (and very saleable) boards from it.

[gww]

ianab
I watched a wooland mills vidio yesterday on utube that had an eight inch deep cut do exactly what you explained.  I intend to cut everything till my mill quits or I just run out of steam.  So far I have never tried to quarter saw.  I just take of the bark to a square cant and then cut whatever boards will come out of it.  My goals have been to end up with as wide of boards as possible and then when I use them if I need more narrow stuff, I rip them.  I have only used green lumber in building so far and I do have some drying now.  I do understand that cutting this way gives me a few quarter sawn boards but I also will probly be surprized by the losses that are still to come while the boards dry (both on the shed and the stickered ones).  I wouldn't waste any of them though I probly won't sell any either. 

The ideal of marketing doesn't appeal to me.  I will probly sell some to family for cost of gas and blades and will donate my time but don't really want to make appointments and show a bunch of strangers stuff they might buy.  I would take opertunity to get rid of enough to cover my blade cost and stuff so I can get some free wood and would also be the type to stockpile incase I ever really needed to change my attitude and felt I had to sell to survive.  I make enough in retirement to get buy if I don't spend and am to lazy to want much more but am enjoying the having wood that I was scrounging for and also just enjoying the accomplishment of building the mill and it actually giving me good boards. 

I am just as greedy as anyone but have a bad case of inertia.  I have a resteraunt building that I am letting rot cause I am getting by with out fixing it and if I put my mind to it could probly do more fixing it rather then cutting wood.  I am new enough retired that I just really like doing what interest me. I just try to be interested in things that are a little productive and don't set me back.  I should be kicked in the but when I waste oppertunities but like my eggs, I give a bunch to my kids and some times my daughter will sell some for the wife but mostly I give them away.  If I could sell boards in an honor stand like I see some people do staw and honey I would probly sell some and give my wife the money but I really don't want do deal with a bunch of people except you guys who I like :laugh:.
I love the suggestions though and who knows maby someday.
Thanks
gww

[gww]

I did set a pickup worth of my thickest edges cut into fire wood by the road and put $40 on it.  I first tried to give it to my neibor before it was cut into fire wood but he never got back to me and I already have 2 cords sitting for my shed and I have burned some of the thin runty stuff.  I can't make myself burn all of it and I can't make myself throw it away so I have no choice but to try and sell it.  I am going to put a can or box out there for money and if it sells fine and if not I will eventually be burning more.  I have a couple tops already cut to fire wood laying in the woods.  I will be giving some to my uncle and sister come winter but it keeps adding up and I have left a bunch of tops un touched.  In my younger days I would have loved to use stuff I may let go to waste now.  I really don't like waste so may sell some stuff.
Mostly if I have room I will probly stock pile first till I have no choice but to make room.  Mom will probly use some of the wood and I will probly donate some labor helping her use it.  She will pay me something and I will be trying to come up with reasons why it should be less.  She gets excited about things and bought my last ten blades and my brother says she is still going to pay for boards if she uses any.  I am a bit bugged by it cause I don't know how to keep from taking a little but would do it for free if she let me.  She wants a cabin buy the lake (shed really).  Every body will help but she is giving me money.  I am using their trailer, tracktor and the trees are going to come from my brother.  I will never catch up.  I will make up for it some how.

Like you guys needed to know all that.  I just felt it was an adition to what I said in my last post, not that it is jermaine to the subject.
Thanks
gww

[sandsawmill14]

gww  do you like woodworking? or just sawmilling carpenter work ?  when you get logs out it will be easier to decide what stays and what goes. but more than likely the logs will be bought by the ton instead of grade so i wont make much difference which you sell or keep. that is depending on species and grade. good luck   
i too think the tractor would be better than the backhoe for getting the logs out 

[fishfighter]

Tractor tires are cheaper then backhoe tires. Yesterday I went in the woods to get a few logs. First thing in the morning, I ran over a pecan stump that was sheared off, sticking about 7" up in high grass. Now I have a 3" hole in a rear tire. >:(

Found a used tire on the rim for $250. ;D

Retirement. One never has enough time to get things done. How in the world was I able to get things done before retirement? I just don't know! :D

[gww]

Sand...
I have only built bee hives and one cedar chest cause mom couldn't allow my sister to burn some panel/siding.  I don't think I have an interest is furniture but who knows what I will be roped into.  I like buildings and raised bed gardens.  My wife has mentioned a swing set.

As for as what mills buy or how, no matter which way that goes I will need to know what lenght and things along that nature.  If they want to pay the same for the dogs as the good stuff, I would of course keep the good stuff.

Fish...
Yes, I believe dad has changed his back tires once already with used.  I had seen your insident on a differrent thread.  It sounds like you did ok to me.  Better if it wouldn't have happenned though.  When you own equiptment it is hard to keep up with. I don't know many people that own a lot of it that follow the manuals that come with it.

I have been busy but do not regret not having a job to go to.  I do have a hard time keeping up now but most is self inflicted.

Hope you keep doing as good as possible health wise.
Thanks
gww

[Ox]

Hey gww - Just an opinion here.  If it were me, after reading all of this and trying to put myself in your shoes, I would call a buyer/sawmill and start asking questions.  Find out lengths, staging, prices, etc. so you can sell them the logs they want.  All the logs they don't want saw yourself.  I've seen many decent logs refused by the buyer around here (VERY picky) because they weren't perfect but more than good enough for us hillbillies.  Then you have some money in your pocket for mill repairs or upgrades or blades and still some logs to mill as it sounds like room around your place is starting to be an issue.  Around here if you want to sell logs you drag them out as long a length as you can and make sure they're somewhere a straight log truck can get to, usually alongside the road.  Then call the mill and they'll send a grader/buyer out in a day or two.  He'll scale the logs and buck them up to what he or they want.  Then he'll cut a check right there and you can cash it the same day.  That's how it works here.  Prices 10 years ago high to low was white oak, cherry, red oak, hard maple, then I can't remember.  I only sold some cherry and red oak a few times when our noses were dragging in the dirt a few times when we first started out.  A couple hundred dollars when you have none and need it is a Godsend.

I've heard the old timers say people liked elm for trailer floors and horse/cattle stalls because it's strong, stringy and fibrous and will last a long time.  I've heard stories of guys trying to split elm for firewood and giving up because of this.

I know an old farmer who would cut sycamore for barn poles for replacing rotten ones and liking them for this purpose.  In dry conditions it seems to work well and hold up nicely.

I've never worked with either of them but this info is as good as gold as far as I'm concerned. 

[gww]

Ox

I did look yesterday at all the sawmills that the internet has listed.  I have not contacted anyone yet.  I am thinking (maby mistakenly) that it won't overly hurt the logs to lay a couple of weeks after they are salvaged and we see what we have.  I could be over estimating or underestimating how much is there.  I think I am fairly close though.  As far as tree species goes, I will be lost.  I may have to have any buyers that are willing to look at them help me with that. 

If it ended up being only ten marketable logs I would probly just haul 4 or 5 at a time to the closest mill and take what they give.  If it looks like enough to generate interest and make it worth it for them to haul, I will look at it differrently.  Dad is pushing me to keep them all.  You got to love my family.

I probly won't keep any money if we sell anything cause mom has already gave me two hundred for blades that I feel bad about and don't feel I deserve.  I also figure that the origional plan was to just shove them in a pile and the only thing I have to lose is a lot of labor in really hot wether cause it was going to be nothing done and now it will be worth something no matter what I do.  There really is no way to lose unless we do something unsafe.

As far as space goes at my house.  It is a real problim however, my goal was to have at least 3 times what it took to build the little 8x10 shed cut and sitting.  I am going to have to face the space issue at some point to meet that goal.  Three time the lumber would give me a good start if I decided to build a real shed.  I have also read that leaving the boards to air dry past the point of where they are equalized with the atmosphere is not good. If I am interpiting this correctly I will have to throw them in a barn or building at some point to store them further.  I saw a chart where they may be dry in as little as 60 days if cut this time of the year.  The new ones that I cut may take 200 days cause of the time of year I will be cutting them.  Now I don't have a barn ether and may have to throw them in dads barn loft.  I will not prong test or buy a meter to judge when this time has come so I may screw it up but believe I can move what I already have cut in augest.  I could see where a visious circle could happen where you cut, have no place to store so use what you cut to build a place to store and then start cutting more, then run out of space.  You could build a buiness by doing that and I don't really want to build a buisness.  I do think you can never have to many buildings but wouldn't want a bunch to store boards although if I had them I would store boards.  I may not know what I am talking about cause I am doing a lot of reading trying to get it right.  If I am coming to the wrong conclusions, I am hoping some one will call me on it.

I understand needing to adjust during hard times and try very hard to have small avenues of escape.  If times are hard enough it wouldn't matter how much you have, there is no escape.  I do my best to be in a position to help myself and maby even help those around me one in a while, No matter what I try not to drag those around me down with me.

I really like knowing what people have used stuff for.  If you have not did it yourself, that is all you can relie on if you need to do it now.

I really like your post and the plan in it goes along the lines that I was thinking on.

I probly won't contact any mills till after the logs are out of the way and I am able to know what I am working with.  In between that time I am trying to find who is cutting the closest to me on the off chance I actually try moving them myself and also with the belief that even if they move them the closeness will be an insentive.  I notice some stave companies that may pay a premium for good white oaks but it might end up better with a more general mill cause I don't know what the species make up will end up being.

I love hearing your thoughts on this.  I almost always agree with you approch though I sometimes am not great on follow through.  I do really have nothing to lose as in the beginning all the trees were lost.
Thanks
gww

Ps I also make more then my brother and I am retired and he made the the same as me before they closed our plant.  He doesn't want the money from the trees but it wouldn't hurt him to get it.

[Ox]

Well, buddy, I feel glad that I may be thinking proper and perhaps helping in some small way.  I really feel like quite the loser most days.

It won't hurt those logs to sit a few weeks, even 2 months in my opinion.  My buyer never cared and he was picky as all get out.

It would be a good plan to pull all you can out and stage them far enough apart so he can get down between them to grade them and buck them.  I'd leave about 2 feet or so in between.  If this isn't an option, make sure you can have some equipment there when he comes so you can move things around for him to do his job and pay you.  Of course, this is what worked here, things may be different there and the only way to know for sure is to give a call.  I just say, "I don't know much about anything cause I'm a dummy so I have a few questions for ya!".  It usually gets a chuckle and sets the mood which is always good.  Pencil and paper for quick notes and you'll be all set.  I wish I was there so I could try to give a hand.  I don't mind helping good folks and I believe you're good folks.  I'm running out of good folks around here.

[gww]

Ox
There are good and bad people everywhere.  I myself am good and bad at times.  I would rather be good but some times have bad days.  I work on it though.

I won't have to act dumb when I finaly call the mills, it will come natural.

I have a feeling it is more fun thinking about getting the logs then it will be doing it but do believe this thinking and asking advice is going to pay off.

I apretiate the advice and the good wishes.  In the way you can, you are helping wether here or not.
Thanks
gww

[Kbeitz]

I'm new at this... I also don't want the hassle of selling wood.
What I'm going to do is the extra wood I don't use for something will go to the Amish sale.
No hassle... You just drop it off and wait for your check.
People go crazy at those sales and wood bring good money.
I guess a lot of farmers go there looking for barn boards.
anyway thats my plan...

[gww]

K
I wouldn't mind a cosignment type situation after my own needs are taken care of if I could actually make enough to keep the mill running and didn't have to make deadlines.  I really don't feel confident in giving any advice on wood to some one who might buy and would not want to leave them with any impression that might end up wrong.  I do not hate money, I just don't like it enough to work for it.  I want my freedom to wake up and do nothing.  I always try to do something unless I don't feel like it :D. I am not rubbing anyones nose in it and many have better then me but I love love love retirement.

Cheers
gww

[Ox]

If I remember right one of the most popular boards is 1" x 8" x 10' for farmers and their barn buildings.  Might fire up an idea for you guys.

[gww]

Ox
Because the shed plan I used called for 8 inch boards for the board and batton and because the bee hive bodies I am using take right at a 7 inch board.  I have not been cutting 1 bys unless I have with in a quarter inch of 8 inches.  I cut the little bit narrow cause with board and batton you can make up a shortfall of a quarter inch pretty easy with the batton. 

I have not been trying to cut the one bys wider then 8 inches and may regret that if I ever want to put up shelves or something.  I have cut a few 11/12 inch diamiter logs and you barily get an 8 inch cant (or I do anyway). 

I also found that it was good that the 8 foot board I cut were atleast 8' 7" long cause if you do an 8 foot wall on a shed, the siding has to be longer. ( I got lucky with out knowlage on this)

I do appretiate knowing that others like this size board also cause it is about all I am cutting when it comes to one bys.
gww

[East ky logging]

Would it be possible to find a small time logger to come out and give you a ballpark estimate of what you have.I know I go out pretty often and look at a few trees someone has and I'll give a honest opinion of what there worth and what I can give and most of the time I'l show them what length to cut and and what mill to take it to for the most money if they want to go that route

[gww]

East
I probly could if I knew who was cutting around here.  It really isn't to much of a hurry.  I am going pull the logs out no matter what.  I figure I have a little time.  If the weather holds they are going to start the middle of next week.  I really kind of want to see what we end up with before putting too much effort to using up peoples time.  I may still decide to try and cut them all.  Probly not but I am not sure yet.  I don't want so few logs to sell that it doesn't make sence for anyone to pick them up and if that is the case. I might just keep or haul myself.  If it ends up a lot and I think there are enough culls to keep me busy. I will have to try harder to figure what they are worth and who will take them.  I think there are some really nice 20+ inch trees.  I don't know how short or crooked they are. 
Thanks
gww

[Ox]

I didn't mention this before, but when I sold those logs years ago they sat there alongside the road for a couple weeks or so.  Apparently the mill trucking would wait until there was enough logs scattered around the area to make one trip and get a full load.  Doesn't matter to us, the seller, because they were bought and paid for so it's now the mill's problem.  One time I only had 3 trees that made 5 logs and they were happy to buy.  Of course, your results may vary.  This was between 10 and 15 years ago.

[gww]

Ox
I cut a log today and I believe I am going to buy another chain for my saw as I just can't get it sharp. 

The reason I mention it is, It was super hot and I was really slow.  I figured it was practice for next week when they start the lake.  I can't believe how slow I was just cutting a log from a down tree. We did have to pull it out with the back hoe to get the log cut to size but can not believe how long it took.  I have to get the saws sharper and work on technique or I am sunk.  3 or 4 acres may just kill me.  I am going to give it my best whatever the out come.

Thanks
gww

[gww]

If the weather holds I should be cutting this week.  I am wondering how small of a diamiter tree you would try to keep/salvage?  This will only happen one time in my life and I am greedy but don't want to compleetly waiste my time.  I am thinking 11 inches or so.  What would you do? 
Thanks for any advice on this.
gww

[Ox]

Yep, that's good.  A lot of guys here have a minimum 10" diameter they will saw for themselves or customers.  Any smaller than that is straight into the wood stove without having to split, so it's a pretty good win-win situation. 

I hope your planned work goes well.  That's a lot of work.  May your saws run well, chains stay sharp and equipment not fail.

[gww]

Ox
Thanks for your thoughts.  I didn't want to be stupid greedy just what might make sence.  I hope your charm works as far as equiptment and such.  I am not up to the work but will give it my all.
Thanks
gww

[YellowHammer]

Really nice thread, I hope things turn out well.  You've gotten lots of great advice, but here's a few more tips I've used that seem small but really make a difference.
First, do everything possible to conserve your energy, a chainsaw, backhoe, trees, logs and a tired guy on the ground are a perfect recipe for an accident. 

I never leave the house without two chainsaws, several sharp chains and a file. Dull chains are too slow and hard to use, so file them up on the spot about every other fill up, or swap them out when they start cutting dull. 

Use plastic wedges and bring a hatchet or hand sledge to open up kerfs when bucking big bridged logs.  Hanging the saw in the cut is bad enough, using a backhoe to lift the log to unstick it is even worse.  Use the hatchet to pound wedges, protect yourself from snakes and also to mark logs and blaze trees.

I always cut the log to the first major fork and leave a couple feet of the forked limbs still attached.  This really aids skidding as it acts like a sled, and keeping the main body of the log out of the dirt. It also prevents splits as as the crotch of the fork will stop them from running into the main log.  Once the entire log is skidded out and ready to buck to correct length, days or weeks later do I cut the forks off. 

Use short skidding chains with a slip hook on one end.  This will allow much faster choking and will not let logs slip out or hooks to jam with dirt and saplings while being dragged.  Many times, I have relased the slip hook on the landing intentionally without ever leaving the cab by dropping slack in the line and shaking the bucket towards the opening of the hook.  The slip hook will just drop off without touching it. 
Make a special purpose short chain for skidding, don't use one any longer than necessary.  I use two mainly, a 3/8 inch 8 foot long, and a 5/16 grade 70, 7 foot long.  They will get around most decent sized logs and also don't require all the extra chain to be wrapped or dragged through the poison ivy. Short chains are lighter, too. I also use an 8 foot wire cable choker, because they are easier to push under a log without having to dig.

Be very careful when cutting off the rootball, they will often times flip back upright and try to kill you.  Put a choker under the log before cutting the rootball and while it is jacked off the ground. 

Leave as much of the tree limbs and rootballs as possible in the woods or brush pile, the landing is for logs, not for debris.

Anyways, good luck and stay safe.

YH

[gww]

Yellowhammer
What a very nice post.

I have four saws hopefully sharp.  I don't have the files and tools for all the saws getherred up yet and my field filing is hit or miss.  Dad is much better and will help as long as his strenght holds.

The wedges will be metal cause that is what we have.  I have in a pinch used the saw to make wood ones before.

I have used the the tractor bucket to unjam my pinched saw almost every time.  I was reading another thread where the guys saw got smashed while doing this and so I am guessing I need to change my habits.

I hadn't thought about snakes though the last time I moved some ranked firewood during summer I did use a hoe and did see snakes.  Thanks for refreshing my memory.

I don't have a slip chain, just two heavy log chains and a couple of light chains in verious conditions.  I may have enough cable around to make something up.  I am sure I am going to be unprepared.

I would have never thought of leaving a couple feet of the first main branches.  Thanks for bringing it up.

I will try to put all of your advice to use in my own way and believe the will be very helpful.  I will report my successes and folly after I am done and try to remember at some point to post a picture of what the activity produces.  I say try cause my camera only works when you take the batteries right out of the charger and take pictures fairly quickly.  It doesn't work with new batteries out of the ice box.  My wife must buy the cheep ones.

If I get some pics,  I am sure I will be back for advice.
I really appretiate every ones imput.  I will use some of it and will be lacking on some of it but not because I wasn't fore warned but because I am trying to get a few things other then loggs tied up so I can give full attention to the logs when it hits.

Thanks
gww

[Ox]

Good post, YellowHammer.

gww - My way of thinking is to take everybody's experiences and try to form your own way of doing it using what others have posted.  It's almost like gaining experience without putting in the time and mistakes.  IF..........you can remember it!

[gww]

Ox

IF..........you can remember it!

That will be the trick won't it?
Cheers
gww

[gww]

Tried to skid my first log today.  It was maby 17/18 inches on the small side and 20/25 feet long on flat ground.  I first tried dragging with the kabota L3300 with about a 500 lbs log in the front bucket.  It is 4 wheel drive but has turf tires on back.  I got stuck getting the 500lbs log and had to pull it out with the back hoe. 

It did not pull the log.

I then hooked up my pick up and it did not pull the log and got stuck.  I then got the backhoe and lifted the log with the bucket.  One corner was still touching the ground.  The back hoe got stuck.  I had to have the high lift operator help me get lose cause I could not get the backhoe out using the back arm.  I could have if I worked at it long enough maby.  I then turned the backhoe around and tried to move the log with the back arm.  I got stuck again while trying to roll the log onto the chain.   By that time I was over heated and sitting in the truck and got it stuck again.  The end result is I had the dozer take the log to the staging area.  I did my best not to have to do that cause he can't and won't do them all. 

I was so hot that I could not pull my truck out with the back hoe and was sitting there when my dad and mom and uncle came to check on me.  I did get out and get unstuck and went and sit in the air. 

So far, log one and glenn(me) zero.  At it most of the day too. 

We were discussing what kind of tree it was and every one said it was some kind of oak but it had elongnated nut tree type leaves. Any ideals?

I am going to be back at it tommorrow at daylight and will have my uncle and his backhoe to work with.  I won't have to get on and get off a million time, which takes it out of me.

I was using dads John  deere 410 from the 70s and my uncles is a 410b with the extend hoe and it is faster and he is better as an operator.  Down fall of both machines is two wheel drive.

The dozer operator has dropped a few more bigg ones for tommorrow morning and I am hoping for better results cause again, today was, log one glenn zero.

With this heat and if no rain, it should also be a bit harder ground (fingers crossed).

This is my first day crappy report but hope is eternal.
Thanks
gww

[4x4American]

When you chained the log to the front bucket, did you lift it off the ground before you started playing tug o war?

[gww]

4x4
When I chained it to the front bucket of the backhoe, I actually had the whole log off the ground parelel with the bucket.  Except the tip of one corner of the log.  The Problim is the weight when trying to drive the back hoe.  The ground is too soft to move with the extra weight.  You would think that if I extend the hoe strait out back and have 3000 lbs on front that it would go anywhere but it just bottoms out.  The ground is flat but tore up a bit by the dozer.
Thanks
gww
Ps  Tommorrow I am going to try a really long chain and a stationary back hoe and just keep shortening the chain as the log gets closer to the back hoe.

[gww]

If all else fails I am just going to have to cut down the lenght and buck the logs to 13 feet  or less.  I know I can move them.
gww

[4x4American]

Can you go to the local rigging supply store get some cable, some snatch blocks, save a tree straps and rig it in a way that you're using leverage to your advantage?

[gww]

4by4
I am new enough that I am not sure what a tree strap is.  Or a snatch block.  I have some stiff cable and maby 70/100 foot of 1/4 inch steal rope but don't really know how to rig it.  Dad has some really large rope and I seen some pullies.  What I really need is about a 300 foot winch to just hook and drag but don't do this often enough to justifie the extra expence.  Just haveing a little help might make a big differrence.  Worst case sinario is we will pull back hoe with backhoe.  Man the dozer is having no trouble.
gww

[4x4American]

Tree strap is just a strap around a tree with a spot to tie into, so that you're not hurting the tree with a chain.  A snatch block is a pulley that swivels open so you can put a cable through it easily.  Trial and error.  Any time you make a pivot, you are adding power to your pull.  A farm way to do it is to strap a clevis to a tree, run the cable through it, to the log and the other end to the pulling mochine.  Then start pulling.  Once the log gets to the tree, re-route it.  I would rather do it this way than being stuck in the mud.

[gww]

4x4
Being stuck in the mud sucks.  It sucks even more when the heat index is 109.  I have to go to bed now but thank you for the advice. 
gww

[4x4American]

Yup, I'm off to bed too!  Good luck and report back! 


Remember, there are always three things you can do:


1) Give up.
2) Try harder
3) Take a different approach.


#2 and #3 are the routes I usually go.

[4x4American]

One more thing, I seen a narrow front end JD tractor in your gallery.  Can you try that to pull?  If you rig up a chain on the 3 pt hitch to pick it up off the ground,you might be able to budge it.  Remember they were designed to pull ploughs.  Backhoes were designed to dig.  My friend has a JD 60 and it amazes me what that thing can pull.

[gww]

I had the deere running a few years ago.  It isn't mine but I could use it but would have to work on the gas lines due to leaking and the radiator is shot and I have never pu hydrolic fluid in it but don't believe the up and down works.  It needs more then I have to offer besides a poor place to stay now that the boards have taken its leantoo.
getting ready to head back to the woods.
Cheers
gww

[4x4American]

ah ok.  good luck!  off to work here too

[Ox]

gww - try putting a very short choke on one end of the logs with chain and reaching out and snatching the loop with the teeth on the hoe and then booming in to pick up and bring the end of the log up close to the the back of the tractor.  It makes the hoe into a makeshift skidder.  I do this all the time and works great for me and I'm muddier and wetter than all heck up here right now.  The front gets light this way but with individual brakes I steer it like a dozer.

Another way it to do the same thing (pick up one end of the log) with the front bucket, drag it backwards, but boom out the hoe all the way straight out behind you, putting maximum weight on the rear tires.  But in real muddy conditions neither of these will work worth a darn without double ring tire chains.

Worse case scenario, buck the logs shorter to whatever it needs to be that you know you can move them.

Good luck and don't go getting heat stroke.

[deadfall]

I haven't read the whole thread, but thought to add just this:

One time I was using a 27HP 4X4 compact tractor to lift and back a log out of tight spot.  I chained it to a center bucket hook, and tried to lift and back drag it out.  What I didn't know was some limbs had buried and were really stuck in the ground.  The tractor got light in the rear and picked up.  When that happened, all the horsepower of the engine was going to the ground through the front differential, swivel joints, and axles.  It made quite a loud pop when it went. 

Those front drives are not built to do that much.  I broke the ring and pinion.  Bent both axle shafts.  Blew up four bearings, exploding the cage on the largest of these.  Broke a sun gear in one of the swivel joints.  Broke two pinions, and generally had a hard hour.  $2000 and I straightened the shafts and did all the labor.  Keep the rear wheels doing the work. 

[beenthere]

Ouch.
Was that the Cub Cadet or the LS ?

[Dixon700]

Your land must be pretty muddy to be having so much issues. With my 580sk I drag 3 50' trees all range from 12-20" at the same time. I leave the boom in the locked position stretch the extendahoe down hook the chain and pull the hoe back up enough just so the ends  of the logs are off the ground. The front end gets light but I can still steer.

[fishfighter]

Like I said, clear a road that is 16'-18' wide, lift logs with front bucket and drive thru. ;D Still way to muddy in my woods to try and drag a log.

[deadfall]

Ouch.
Was that the Cub Cadet or the LS ?

What they call, "on the job training."

That was the first Cub Cadet, and my first tractor.  I still have the carcass with that rebuilt front axle.  It's now dead of a cracked block (long story).  That Mitsubishi K3M engine design is out of print, and no one is selling blocks, stripped, short, or long.  Someday I will take the 30 horse K3M engine out of the hydrostatic and put in that dead gear tractor.  If I ever get my shop built, I might take a shot at fixing the block. 

The two CCs I have now were both gotten because that's the only way I could find to get an engine.  Both were low hours, killer deals, on Craigslist.  I didn't know how much I would not like the hydro.  The dead gear model has a mid PTO and would make a great mowing rig.   It also has a superior loader to the newer CC as well as the larger LS. 

That same Mitsubishi design was a Case IH before it was an MTD CC, and a Mahindra later on. I think its carried other brands as well. 

[beenthere]

I didn't know MTD took over the compact utility CC.  Thought they just got the lawn tractor models.

Poked around on Tractor Data site and found this.

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/tractor-brands/cubcadet/cubcadet-tractors.html

[deadfall]

I'll be darned.  CC began running K3Ms again in 2010 with a turbo in the 7530 and 7532. 

I think these are all the K3Ms except the 36HP.  My dead one is a 7274.  The middle two numbers are the HP and the last digit means two or four wheel drive.  Add one to the last digit for hydrostatic.  The first Craigslist replacement I got was a 2000 7300 with 50 hours.  Still the middle two digits is the HP, but they changed something up on what the last number means, because it is a 4WD with gears.  The other CC I have is a 7305 (500 hours), so the numbers are working like before.  It's the hydro, and was once owned by the man who gave me that 7274.  He gave that one away to another guy who used to work for him.  I recognized it the second it popped up on Craigslist.  Would you believe me if I told you he was the best boss I ever had?  The only trouble with being given a tractor is, you become tractor addicted.  There's no going back.

The 36 HP I believe was a K4M four-banger.


7272   27 hp   1996 - 1997
7273   27 hp   1996 - 1997
7274   27 hp   1996 - 1997
7275   27 hp   1996 - 1997
7300   30 hp   1998 - 2003
7304   30 hp   2003 - 2004
7305   30 hp   1998 - 2003
7360   36 hp   2000 - 2003
7530   30 hp   2004 - 2010
7532   32 hp   2004 - 2010

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/001/1/6/1161-caseih-1140.html

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/001/5/0/1501-mahindra-2615.html

The Mahindra has a later, smaller, Mitsubishi 3-banger.

Good little tractors, but the front diff is a little light.

[Peter Drouin]

If it was me, I would mark the trees I want and hire a logger with a skidder. In a day or two you would have all the trees you want . I do that with my wood lot for fire wood.
Good luck.

[justallan1]

I think if it were me I'd talk with the dozer hand and see if he wouldn't do a few pulls for you each morning and then a few more each night. Then you can take your time and have things ready for him. If it took sneaking $100 to him, reality says that's going to be cheaper than what's happening now. Getting overheated and stressed out in any situation isn't healthy and adding 3 more stressed out guys in the mix just makes it dangerous, especially with an older JD 410. We have one on the ranch I work for and it's about half scary on dry flat ground.
Use to be a case of beer about quitting time could make most equipment run pretty good for another hour or so. ;D

Something else caught my attention that you said. You had just filed your chainsaw and it still wasn't cutting worth beans. By chance are you NOT filing your rakes? No disrespect intended.

[gww]

Ok, Today was quite a bit better.  We started at day light and got about ten trees to the staging area.  The biggest one was around 27 inch small side and 30 inch big side but was only about 10 feet long.  My uncle being a better operator and me cutting while he moved the logs was a large help.  It had rained about 3 inches three days ago and the extra day helped a bit on movement.  I figured one reason his hoe goes a little better then dads.  He has 19 inch wheels and dad has 15 something wheels. 

We got there at day light.  The weather people had extreem heat advisories for the day and I believe them.

I am hoping we get no rain, maby it will get better yet.  I believe we are about 1/6th done.  got a cherry today and some big water oaks or black oaks.  One big cedar so far with two more down.  Lots of trimming on them.

To the suggestion of just picking up the log and driving,  The back hoe bairly goes and so it is a lot of using the hydrolics to move forward.  To the suggetion of the front wheels not being made to pull that much on the kabota.  I have been lucky so far cause I have moved a bunch were the only reason the back wheels were touching the ground was because I was moving forward and the bucket was close to the ground when I stopped.  I hope to keep getting lucky cause that is really all that is light enough to haul and use at my house. 

The lake builders 35 thousand pound high lift got stuck and we got it out using the back hoe.  Broke a big chain doing it.  The extend a hoe is a very nice feature on my uncles back hoe cause it move strait in and strait out and helps tremendously when using it to help move the back hoe forwar and back wards in mud.

I hope we even get faster on the logs cause 10 logs is better then none but not fast enough.

It is supposed to be cooler for the next three days and if the rain holds off it should be more pleasant to work in.
Thanks very much for the comments.  I would offer the beer but I am the one that is wimping out first.  Man I got so hot a couple of times in the last two days that I couldn't function with out long cool down periods.

Cheers
gww

[Dixon700]

What method is your uncle using to bring them out? Hooking onto them with the hoe picking them up a little and dragging them out?

[gww]

dixon
He is using a bit of everything.  Some times we leave lots of slack and hook to the front bucket and then just raise the bucket as high as it will go which drags the log toward the back hoe, then back up ten feet and do it again.  Some times we do the same with the back bucket.  Every once in a while we can hook it to the back bucket and just pull but that doesn't happen very often.  It may be a bit better today if we get no rain. 
Thanks
gww

[deadfall]

I have relied on that bucket inchworm method quite a lot.  Especially when it's a heavy one going uphill.  Only using the wheels to move the tractor backwards avoids the risk of busting the front drive like I did that one time.  Hydraulics are way more forgiving than gears, which have no relief valve.

[Ox]

It's good to hear you're making progress.  This will probably be like everything else we try to do - just when you start getting halfway good at it the job's over!

Be careful in the heat, buddy.  We're in a heatwave right now too and working in spurts with cool downs in between is the only way to get anything accomplished.  The biggest hurdle for me is getting back up and going again.  Seems like my body just stiffens right up when I stop moving.

[Philbert]

I don't see anyone mentioning a log arch.  Do any of you guys use one in this type of situation?

Sponsor Logrite is the 'brand name' in this area.

Just curious.

Philbert

[fishfighter]

My extendahoe saved me a few timers. Wouldn't own a hoe without it. It's nice to have 25' of reach with it.

Get your power washers ready if you having that much rain.   

[gww]

Hey everybody, 15 hour days with breaks doesn't leave much time for responces. 
Couple of pics of progress.



  

 

There are about 25 in this pile and maby 10 more in another field.

Cheers
gww

[Ox]

Progress!  Can't never fault a man for trying his best, can you?  Hopefully you are able to keep whittling away at it and get it done safely.  Waste not want not.  Thanks for the pics.

[gww]

Ox
Thanks brother.
gww

[gww]

The track broke on the high lift.  It will take a couple of days to get going. What a shame cause on the weekend I had lots of extra help.  I talked to a freind and believe the mills are giving around $300 per mbf.  I as yet have not talked to a mill (weekend).  I figured that it took about 1330 board foot to build my little 8x10 shed.  I may just try to cut it all and not sell any.  If I have about 50 trees with at least one good log in it.  It would be about a 25x25 shed or a bit bigger if I used board and baton siding,  (by my guestimate).   That is probly not too much wood to keep around if we are going to try to put a dock and some storage at the lake.

The closest mill seems to be atleast 30 miles away.
Just thinking out loud here.
Thanks
gww