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replace lt 15 wheel bearings

Started by fred in montana, July 10, 2015, 07:23:12 AM

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fred in montana

I realized that I have been over tensioning my blades for a long time and I think it shortened the life of my bandwheel bearings. I will have to replace them.

Did some searching but didn't find out everything I need to know to replace them.

I am thinking I need to remove the wheel/axle assembly from the mill then disassemble that to replace the bearings?

To remove the wheel axle assembly, I just loosen two of the four axle alignment bolts and drive the assembly forward and out using a hammer and a wooden block, striking the end of the axle?

Any pics/advice would be appreciated.
woodmizer lt15, mf 65 tractor
logdovetailjig.com

ladylake

 A good reason not to over tension to saw straight.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Magicman

I would call WM and get a step by step procedure. 
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

MartyParsons

Hello,
The idle side wheel would be quite simple to remove. Remove the center bolt 5/16". Remove the washer replace the bolt. Use a two or three jaw puller and remove the wheel. Most even just pull off with a little wiggle. There is a snap ring that holds the bearing in place. Remove the snap ring and use a press to remove the bearing and replace. Reverse procedure.
Drive side has a few more steps. You will need to remove the drive belt and the brake to get the wheel off. Other than that everything should be the same.
The reason you put the bolt back in the hole is to keep from damaging the bolt threads while using the puller. Ask me how I know this!  :-[

I have not seen any issues with these bearings.  Only mills with real high hours ( like 4 or 5 thousand) . Bearing failure may be due to leaving the band tension on when not in use or moisture getting in the bearing because the mill is not being used for sometime.   Just my opinion. Is there anymore to the story?

Bearing for idle side P08066  x 2  $ 10.61
Bearing for Drive side 014811 x 2 $12.12
These part # are for newer LT15 and LT28 and LT35.  I do think even the early LT15 use the same bearing. Check your manual.

Hope this helps.

Marty
"A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty." -Winston Churchill

drrivah

Trouble replacing drive belt on 18 mos old LT-15. No prior issues whatsoever: love this mill.javascript:load()

After removing through-bolt, cannot separate part (A, clutch pulley assembly, socket) from part (B, shaft to clutch handle).

Any suggestions before applying force or heat?

Thanks!

-pete barker
Ogham Hardwoods Milling
Loudoun County, Virginia



PC-Urban-Sawyer


beenthere

drrivah
Welcome to the Forestry Forum

Looks like posting pics is giving you fits.
There are five in your gallery now, all alike.
So you can go to your gallery and clean out all but one. Then click on that one and it will enlarge. Right under that enlarged pic will be the instruction how to paste it into your post (have your post open in another window works best). Good luck with it, and shout out if there is a problem. Someone will help you out.

Second the Blue Creeper suggestion.. :)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Kbeitz

I made this tool for jobs like that...



 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Chuck White

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, drrivah.  (Pete)
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

MartyParsons

Hello,
You can tap the inside shaft ( 16)  toward the engine a little. # 18 should be supported by the flange on # 17  and come off easily. Watch the linkage on the engine side so it does not bind at # 11. You may need to remove the nut # 15 on the parts picture and let this ( 11) come out of the shaft ( 16) and drive it out of the bushings # 17. Relube the bushings (17) if they are dry when you replace the assembly.

Marty
"A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty." -Winston Churchill

valley ranch


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