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A real Do-it guy

Started by Ocklawahaboy, July 05, 2015, 07:34:40 PM

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Ocklawahaboy

Found this while killing brain cells today.  Actually, I had uploaded a video for one of my online classes and YouTube decided I should see it.  I didn't know that it was possible to create an almost all wooden bandmill that sort of works.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UU-Gykz2ADY


azmtnman

I've heard of people that have that kind of time!  :D
1983 LT 30, 1990 Kubota L3750DT, 2006 Polaris 500 EFI, '03 Dodge D2500 Cummins powered 4X4 long-bed crew cab, 1961 Ford backhoe, Stihl MS250, MS311 and MS661--I cut trees for my boss who was a Jewish carpenter!

bkaimwood

Uhhhh...uhhhhhh....uhhhhhh...not even sure what to say...first thing came to mind, was I hope this dude has good homeowners insurance, and is a good liar, due to the power supply....second thing was, wow, this dude definitely has some woodworking skills, and I could only imagine the time he put into this...and at the same time, ashamed it wasn't of steel...
bk

gfadvm

This guy is a genius! The mill was one of his few failures. He has built some amazing tools and I envy his skills.

Kbeitz

Wall mart special...
What can I say.....
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

codemunk3y

I suggest you go over to woodgears.ca- Matthias who runs the site has a wealth of knowledge about machinery and I think he used to work for a big machinery company.

He tries and fails at a lot of things but he learns and shares that knowledge with the world so that they don't need to.

petefrom bearswamp

fun to watch, kept waiting for a massive failure of the machine, but no.
Kubota 8540 tractor, FEL bucket and forks, Farmi winch
Kubota 900 RTV
Polaris 570 Sportsman ATV
3 Huskies 1 gas Echo 1 cordless Echo vintage Homelite super xl12
57 acres of woodland

breazyears

Its true that a sawmill made from wood is just silly, but its true that this guy has built some very nice machines from wood.

AnthonyW

Quote from: bkaimwood on July 05, 2015, 08:43:27 PM
Uhhhh...uhhhhhh....uhhhhhh...not even sure what to say...first thing came to mind, was I hope this dude has good homeowners insurance, and is a good liar, due to the power supply....second thing was, wow, this dude definitely has some woodworking skills, and I could only imagine the time he put into this...and at the same time, ashamed it wasn't of steel...

I'm still trying to figure out how the house is wired that he has two separate feeds to that one outlet, especially since it is a kitchen outlet and should be GFCI protected.

He could use some better hold downs. For logs that size, I would just use (and I have used) a standard vertical bandsaw with a sled.
'97 Wood-Mizer LT25 All Manual with 15HP Kohler

Jeff

Many houses are wired that way. Mostly in prep for an electric 220 stove.  Got a gas stove?  Then the 220 plug is worthless, but useful if wired as 2 110 feeds but only if you have a four-wire cable running to the stove. You need two supply wires (hot), a return wire (neutral), and a ground wire
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

beenthere

The National wiring code requires the kitchen outlets to be wired that way, I do believe.
Each half of a duplex outlet on a different circuit. Not sure if they have to be out of phase (edit: per code)  in order Out of phase needed to get the 220v, as shown in the video.

Range must be on its own circuit too, as is the refrig. (edit: apparently new code per AnthonyW)

Doesn't mean all wiring code is followed.  But should be, as that is one gimmick the insurance companies use to void a payment if the house burns down for some reason or blows away.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

kelLOGg

Quote from: AnthonyW on July 06, 2015, 10:12:11 AM
I'm still trying to figure out how the house is wired that he has two separate feeds to that one outlet, especially since it is a kitchen outlet and should be GFCI protected.

Ditto. My 120VAC outlets are not wired that way: they have a single feed going to both receptacles. Two feeds to an outlet is more expensive (more wire) and I don't know what you get for it.

He's obviously a talented woodworker and was determined to make a sawmill from wood. Maybe if he gets a welder for his birthday he will WOW us.
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

AnthonyW

Quote from: beenthere on July 06, 2015, 12:07:43 PM
The National wiring code requires the kitchen outlets to be wired that way, I do believe.

Not according to the recent versions of the NEC I have used. I'm not even sure how you would wire a GFCI outlet with two hots. AFAIK, there are not 220V GFCI breakers available. That being said with the caveat, I have not looked for or tried to use either. Duplex outlet fed with 4 conductors (2 hot, 1 neutral, 1 ground) requires a 220V double pole breaker. A duplex outlet fed with 6 conductors (2 hot, 2 neutral, 2 ground) may be fed with two single pole breakers.

Quote from: beenthere on July 06, 2015, 12:07:43 PM
Range must be on its own circuit too, as is the refrig.
Also not required per the NEC. In regards to the oven, one would have to account for the second load and size the circuit (breaker, wire, and outlets) accordingly. Imagine having the electric drier and electric range on one circuit. In my house that would require, breakers, outlet, and wire for 80A. That would be huge. Splitting them results in a 30A circuit for the drier and 50A for the range.

When I installed my transfer switch, I met with the electrician and the inspector and reviewed the NEC regarding the the wiring in the kitchen. Originally it had a 20A circuit that serviced the fridge, range hood, and counter outlet. I was told this was not code and would have to be changed to include the fridge on the transfer switch.

Code requires no less than two dedicated 20A GFCI circuits to service no less three duplex outlets at least 24 inches apart for the counter space and servicing no other load.

One item that can be derived from this is that a kitchen would end up with four circuits minimum (2x counter outlets, fridge, and range). If you figured out how to wire the GFCI breaker with two hots...one could wire each of the three duplex outlets for the counter with the top on one circuit and the bottom on another. The counter outlets meet code, and the range hood is the only light in the house that works while running on the generator.

You can notice the outlet in the video is not GFCI (the breaker might be). As Jeff pointed out, this outlet could be re-purposed from an oven hook-up that is not needed. There are "extension cords" available on the retail market for doing exactly what he did. These cords look like a Y, only each leg is a different length. The two legs that plug to the wall are different lengths to try to reach outlets on two different circuits. In short, there is not enough information available in the video to know if code is being met or not.
'97 Wood-Mizer LT25 All Manual with 15HP Kohler

beenthere

Edited what I meant to say.

And apparently the code has been changed a bit since I last followed it. ;)

Likely GFCI has led to updating.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

bkaimwood

Maybe I missed it, and please slap me if I'm wrong...I don't wanna watch the video again...but, he used an outlet box that likely only had one 110 to it, and branched off 2 desperate leads, creating 220...leaving 1 wire for neutral...just the same as if it was split at the box, via a breaker...
bk

AnthonyW

Quote from: beenthere on July 06, 2015, 12:07:43 PM
Range must be on its own circuit too, as is the refrig. (edit: apparently new code per AnthonyW)
It's not written the range and fridge must be on their own circuit, but they cannot be on the two required GFCI circuits for the countertop.

Quote from: bkaimwood on July 06, 2015, 06:53:11 PM
Maybe I missed it, and please slap me if I'm wrong...I don't wanna watch the video again...but, he used an outlet box that likely only had one 110 to it, and branched off 2 desperate leads, creating 220...leaving 1 wire for neutral...just the same as if it was split at the box, via a breaker...
It could not have a single 110V hot in the box, there would be no way to get 220V. The outlet had two hots pulled from the breaker box (it must because we see the voltmeter readings). At first it is surprising to have 220V at that outlet, but upon further thought there is no problem with it. NEC allows for it and has the requirements for doing so. You just have to add pieces of different sections together yourself. Since we cannot see the panel, we will never know if the outlet he is using meets code or not.
'97 Wood-Mizer LT25 All Manual with 15HP Kohler

Ocklawahaboy

Listening to the accent, I assumed it was not a U.S. home. 
You could run two different leads to an outlet, as long as you broke the tab in the middle of the outlet so that they were truly functioning as separate circuits.  I haven't wired professionally in almost 15 years so I couldn't tell you what the code says now but as the "old saying" goes, that aint the way we did it!

codemunk3y


Hilltop366

Until about 2002 kitchen counter plugs in Canada had to be wired with a split plug with a double pole 15a breaker using 14/3 wire. You break the tab off on the hot side and install the black (120v) on one screw and the red (120v) on the other from each side of the double pole breaker, the white (neutral) is put on the other side and is common to both sides so the tab is left intact. Ground is also installed as usual.

He made a converter to go on the split plug that connects the red (120v) and the black (120v) and the white (neutral) each to a separate wire on the extension chord and put a 240v plug on the other end.

After 2002 (not really sure of the date) kitchen counter plugs are wired with a single pole 20a breaker and 12/2 wire.

Magicman

I first encountered 115vac outlets in Canadian campgrounds wired that way in 1995.  The tab is removed and one leg of 230vac is wired to each half of the outlet.  I suppose that they still are.
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