DIY Bandsaw Blade Sharpener

LUV2MILL · June 15, 2015, 10:25:46 PM

Anyone built there own sharpener? I'm working on one I'm wondering about grinding the cam I know it's going to be very critical.

bandmiller2 · June 16, 2015, 07:40:49 AM

Luv2, I was in the same position you are now, I would have built my own if I could have got a good look at one. Carbide grit shaped wheels are available now that shape and sharpen without dragging a grinding wheel through the gullet. I would go that route all you have to worry about is up down and advance the band. Of course this wheel type needs coolant. Frank C.

Ga Mtn Man · June 16, 2015, 09:00:13 AM

I have been told by a reliable source that WM will sell you a cam (disc only) for a surprisingly low price. You would of course need to build your sharpener around this cam to get the correct lever ratio.

When I built my sharpener I replaced the cam follower with a pointer that had a v-notch in it (for the point of a fine-point marker) and used the completed sharpener to trace the blade profile onto a blank cam disc. If you go this route you might want to consider making a test disc out of hardboard or something similar and when you have it right, trace it onto a metal disc.

pineywoods · June 16, 2015, 09:29:20 AM

Why have a cam at all? I played around with building one based on one of the cheap electric chain saw sharpeners. Instead of a cam, why not use the profile of the next tooth on the blade to control the grinding ? The only drawback to doing this is one damaged tooth could result in 2 mis-shapened teeth. Use an adjustable tilt to control the hook angle, and presto.. sharpen any blade style.. Just another project that I never got around to, I have one of the old woodmizer drag type sharpeners, so no pressure to build another.. ;D

Den-Den · June 16, 2015, 10:14:35 AM

You can do it.

I built one last year, the cam took some time but not really difficult. It screws onto a threaded shaft so I could make another profile if I need to. I turned the cam round on a metal lathe before mounting it on the sharpener. Ground it by test fitting, marking where to cut and test fitting again. I probably spent about 3+ hours before I was happy with it. At one point, I ground too much off one spot and had to build it up with some welding. The sharpener design was based on some you-tube videos of other machines and parts I had on hand (I did have to purchase the belting and linkage ends).

Ox · June 16, 2015, 01:41:39 PM

Den-Den: how do like those link belts? I've heard tell they run smoother and last longer than regular belts. Just from looking at them I don't know how they can because they look less robust than a typical belt. I'm after real world opinions and not opinions from a manufacturer.

Fantastic job on your sharpener, by the way. You're a better man than me. It would take me a year to get that DanG thing built.

Den-Den · June 16, 2015, 01:51:02 PM

Quote from: Ox on June 16, 2015, 01:41:39 PM
Den-Den: how do like those link belts? I've heard tell they run smoother and last longer than regular belts. Just from looking at them I don't know how they can because they look less robust than a typical belt. I'm after real world opinions and not opinions from a manufacturer.

The link belts have a few advantages:
* can be installed without taking equipment apart
* If you have some handy, you can replace many lengths without stocking each one
* They remain flexible which makes them run smoother in applications that sit under tension for long periods between short uses. Regular belts take a set and cause vibration when first started.
I don't think they could last nearly as long as regular belts in heavy use.

plowboyswr · June 16, 2015, 02:42:57 PM

Ox, I have one on the main drive and second drive on my metal lathe. It works great no slippage or vibration. I've had it on there about 12 years now. No it doesn't get used every day but when it does it gets used hard, its on a old line shaft lathe uses flat belts on the step pulleys. The old thing is a monster 18" swing and 8' 6 " between the posts. 5hp electric motor through a 3 speed pickup transmission then on to the flat belts. Used a couple on grain augers also.

LUV2MILL · June 16, 2015, 05:22:26 PM

Den-Den,

I think we've been watching the same videos. Are you happy with the edge you get on your blades?

I turned my cam blank on a lathe as well and marked every .100" so I would know where I was when I grind it.

Kbeitz · June 16, 2015, 09:17:14 PM

There is a big difference in brands of link-belt
If you can find this type it is the best of the best.
It's called Supreme V-link belting...

4x4American · June 16, 2015, 09:25:35 PM

:P

Ox · June 16, 2015, 09:35:08 PM

Neat stuff - thanks for the info, guys.

Just checked on Amazon and it's running around 9 to 10 bucks a foot!

Kbeitz · June 17, 2015, 06:30:11 AM

Quote from: Ox on June 16, 2015, 09:35:08 PM
Neat stuff - thanks for the info, guys.

Just checked on Amazon and it's running around 9 to 10 bucks a foot!

There is some on E-bay right now.
Search for "VEELOS ADJUSTABLE V BELT "

21incher · June 17, 2015, 07:12:24 AM

Thanks for sharing the sharpener pics. I may have to try and build one after reading this. Has anyone seen one operated by a air cylinder to advance the blade and control the cut using a linear cam that would be shaped like a oversized blade tooth.

Ox · June 17, 2015, 07:40:00 AM

Kbeitz - thanks for sharing that. $3 a foot is much more doable. Glad to know there's better prices. I always seem to forget about Ebay most times.

DMcCoy · June 17, 2015, 06:33:42 PM

Not much in the looks department but it will sharpen a blade! Single speed, 4 teeth per min. which doesn't turn the teeth blue

The cam was the final piece. I allowed the grinding stone to follow a new blade I had and then transferred scratch marks with an ice pick into black felt marker to mark the shape of the cam. Felt marker is nice as you can add more when you need to and then have a fresh surface to scratch.

Kbeitz · June 17, 2015, 06:43:10 PM

OK.... I want one....
We need more info....
And more pictures....

Please....

LUV2MILL · June 19, 2015, 05:03:21 PM

Kbeitz,
I'll try to get some pictures up this weekend, not sure if you'll want them since I haven't finished mine and its never sharpened a blade yet.

LUV2MILL · July 10, 2015, 09:30:08 PM

I've ground my Cam and everything seems to be going pretty good but I was wondering what shape is best for the wheel for a sweep grinder? Do you just round the corners? or fully radius the face? or is it different for different hook angles?

Delawhere Jack · July 10, 2015, 10:56:24 PM

bandmiller2 · July 11, 2015, 07:44:03 AM

Luv, assuming your pushing the band from right to left you want the major radius on the right side. that's the side that sweeps up the back of the tooth. Left side of the wheel should have a slight radius as you don't want any sharp notches in the gullet that's the side that transforms from the face to the gullet. Guys your best to use regular belts when at all possible those linked belts are expensive and designed for places where a complete belt would be hard to install, should be used for light loads only. Frank C.

LUV2MILL · July 11, 2015, 09:03:29 AM

Quote from: LUV2MILL on July 10, 2015, 09:30:08 PM
I've ground my Cam and everything seems to be going pretty good but I was wondering what shape is best for the wheel for a sweep grinder? Do you just round the corners? or fully radius the face? or is it different for different hook angles?

What grit is the most common? I'm not sure I like the grind marks from the 60 grit wheels I have.

Kbeitz · July 11, 2015, 10:18:35 AM

Yea that plastic link belt is not the best... It slips and streaches like crazy.
But there is good link belt out there... But it's not cheap...

DMcCoy · July 11, 2015, 10:44:46 AM

Quote from: LUV2MILL on July 11, 2015, 09:03:29 AM
Quote from: LUV2MILL on July 10, 2015, 09:30:08 PM
I've ground my Cam and everything seems to be going pretty good but I was wondering what shape is best for the wheel for a sweep grinder? Do you just round the corners? or fully radius the face? or is it different for different hook angles?

What grit is the most common? I'm not sure I like the grind marks from the 60 grit wheels I have.

60 would be a little coarse imho. I use a chainsaw sharpener wheel - 100 grit. Keep in mind the speed at which you grid will also effect the finish. I run 4 teeth per min and I'm very pleased, better than when they were new, draws blood easily... :D

LUV2MILL · July 12, 2015, 10:17:25 AM

Bandmiller2

Quote from: bandmiller2 on July 11, 2015, 07:44:03 AM
Luv, assuming your pushing the band from right to left you want the major radius on the right side. that's the side that sweeps up the back of the tooth. Left side of the wheel should have a slight radius as you don't want any sharp notches in the gullet that's the side that transforms from the face to the gullet. Guys your best to use regular belts when at all possible those linked belts are expensive and designed for places where a complete belt would be hard to install, should be used for light loads only. Frank C.

Thanks for the info, I was thinking that way was giving me the best results. I was reading an article by Tim Cook (I use his SS blades) about grinding the gullets can cause blade breakage so I've been hesitating about using too much vertical down but after a couple of rounds (practicing on scrap blades with several missing teeth) my gullets aren't deep enough. I've never broken a blade and I don't want to start breaking them. I know I will eventually break blades especially if I up my HP (running 7 or 8 HP diesel thinking of converting to 14 HP gas) but shouldn't a person be able to get 4 or 5 re-sharpening out of blades before that happens?