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WM 7 degree blades

Started by 4x4American, June 08, 2015, 07:26:23 PM

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4x4American

Peter D talked me into getting some 1-1/4" 7/8" .055" 7 degree blades from WM.  They are a fast blade, if you don't move quick enough you get chatter.  I have been getting used to them and am really liking them.  Other day I was sawing cedar and I cut through a 1/2" steel shank in the log.  The blade kept cutting straight, just kinda marked the wood like a high tooth would.  So I made another cut, and it was flat as a pancake that was run over by a vibratory roller.  I was impressed.  I took the blade off after that and looked at the teeth and they had some skin peeling off but no teeth missing. I might can fix them on the grinder.  That left me real impressed.  They are a bear to coil though being thick.  But doable.  Anyhows.  Once I tossed a black locust log on, they did great cutting that too.  The locust had been down and laying on the ground since sept-october.  I was able to peel the bark off the locust fairly easily, so that helped quite a bit.


I would recommend these blades to anyone who has the hp to pull them.
Boy, back in my day..

bkaimwood

I am running the same blades,  and can't believe how fast they saw...you have to go to keep up with the mill...amazing. Glad to hear someone else is having the same experience I am...takes some getting used too...cheers!
bk

AnthonyW

Ditto here. I am working to use up my original box of 10 degree blades. Someone mentioned I may be able to have WM Resharp replace the unsharpenable 10 degree blades for 7 degree blades. I hope they are right.
'97 Wood-Mizer LT25 All Manual with 15HP Kohler

POSTON WIDEHEAD

Metal is metal and I hates it all.

The older metal from back in the 50's is usually sudden death to the teeth on a blade. I have hit metal from our day in time and found not a lot of damage due to the softness of todays metal.
Also the angle you hit said piece of metal also has a lot to do with the severity of blade damage.

4x4, lay a piece of I-Beam on the mill and see how your blade reacts.  :D

I'm just kidding buddy....good post and glad those blades are working for you.  :)
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

POSTON WIDEHEAD

Metal is metal and I hates it all.

The older metal from back in the 50's is usually sudden death to the teeth on a blade. I have hit metal from our day in time and found not a lot of damage due to the softness of todays metal.
Also the angle you hit said piece of metal also has a lot to do with the severity of blade damage.

4x4, lay a piece of I-Beam on the mill and see how your blade reacts.  :D

I'm just kidding buddy....good post and glad those blades are working for you.  :)
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

barbender

Ya know, my grandad does that, where he tells me a story and then 2 minutes later he tells me the exact same story again. How old are you in goat years? ;D
Too many irons in the fire

POSTON WIDEHEAD

Quote from: barbender on June 08, 2015, 09:08:06 PM
Ya know, my grandad does that, where he tells me a story and then 2 minutes later he tells me the exact same story again. How old are you in goat years? ;D

Sometimes I hit "post"......then I get a text from another member....I answer it and go back to the ff and post the same thing again. Sorry.

Goat Years? 119.  :D :D :D :D :D
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

Magicman

I thought that you had started stuttering, or that there was an echo. 
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

POSTON WIDEHEAD

Quote from: Magicman on June 08, 2015, 09:17:49 PM
I thought that you had started stuttering, or that there was an echo.

You're ffffffffffffffunny.
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

4x4American

 :D  barbender :D


ya know I've always thought it'd be cool to put a metal sawing blade on one of these mills and try to saw up metal for welding projects or something  :)
Boy, back in my day..

4x4American

And yea the recycled steel of today has gotten soft as has most of society's hands..the (Edit:  word removed by Admin) of america
Boy, back in my day..

scully

I run the 7's but the thin ones . I like the turbo 7's allot as well .  seem you get allot of exit fray though
I bleed orange  .

azmtnman

Quote from: 4x4American on June 08, 2015, 07:26:23 PM
Peter D talked me into getting some 1-1/4" 7/8" .055" 7 degree blades from WM.  They are a fast blade, if you don't move quick enough you get chatter. 
I would recommend these blades to anyone who has the hp to pull them.
Wait......I thought it took less power to run the smaller degree blades and I thought they cut slower--kinda like a hacksaw.
  I got some 7's and 4's because I thought I remembered reading a post on here about going from 10's to 7's to cut spruce (which I will eventually run into).
???  ???
1983 LT 30, 1990 Kubota L3750DT, 2006 Polaris 500 EFI, '03 Dodge D2500 Cummins powered 4X4 long-bed crew cab, 1961 Ford backhoe, Stihl MS250, MS311 and MS661--I cut trees for my boss who was a Jewish carpenter!

AnthonyW

Quote from: azmtnman on June 09, 2015, 12:32:59 AM
Quote from: 4x4American on June 08, 2015, 07:26:23 PM
Peter D talked me into getting some 1-1/4" 7/8" .055" 7 degree blades from WM.  They are a fast blade, if you don't move quick enough you get chatter. 
I would recommend these blades to anyone who has the hp to pull them.
Wait......I thought it took less power to run the smaller degree blades and I thought they cut slower--kinda like a hacksaw.
  I got some 7's and 4's because I thought I remembered reading a post on here about going from 10's to 7's to cut spruce (which I will eventually run into).
???  ???

Thicker blade (0.055 vs 0.032) will have to remove more material from the kerf and thus require more HP. But thicker blades have more metal on the tooth and (may) last longer.

Higher angle (10 vs 7 degree) is more aggressive, have more bite, and thus require more HP.

Wide blade (1 1/2" vs 1") places more blade material in the kerf and thus requiring more HP.

I believe the trick is to figure out which blade runs best for your personal cutting style with your given HP.
'97 Wood-Mizer LT25 All Manual with 15HP Kohler

Magicman

7° blades have a deeper gullet and therefore are carrying more sawdust away from the cut.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

AnthonyW

Quote from: Magicman on June 09, 2015, 07:51:02 AM
7° blades have a deeper gullet and therefore are carrying more sawdust away from the cut.

I was curious if I could tell the difference between the 10 and 7. The gullets looked identical on the two new blades I compared. The difference in the angle was only noticeable to me when the blades were compared, one overlaid with the other.  I don't think I could tell which was which if I only had one blade and no reference or blade to compare it to.
'97 Wood-Mizer LT25 All Manual with 15HP Kohler

Magicman

The only way that I can quickly tell is by using the handy-dandy tooth gauge from WM.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Sixacresand

Quote from: Magicman on June 09, 2015, 10:57:41 AM
The only way that I can quickly tell is by using the handy-dandy tooth gauge from WM.
I didn't know a guage existed.  I learn something from the Forum every day, whether I want to or not.   :D  Jake, the CustomSawyer, told me that each blade had a serial number, which I did Not know, either.  WM can look at the number and know what degree it is before sharpening it.  I try to put the dull sevens and tens in separate boxes but sometimes I forget to put them where they need to go.  Most of the time I mark them with a sharpie when they get dull as to their degree. 
"Sometimes you can make more hay with less equipment if you just use your head."  Tom, Forestry Forum.  Tenth year with a LT40 Woodmizer,

Magicman

I spray paint the welds.  Red for 7° and green for 4°.  The 10°'s get nothing.   ;D
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

AnthonyW

Quote from: Magicman on June 09, 2015, 11:24:31 AM
I spray paint the welds.  Red for 7° and green for 4°.  The 10°'s get nothing.   ;D

Does the paint stay on after use? Which spray paint? Can you send a mixed batch to Resharp?
'97 Wood-Mizer LT25 All Manual with 15HP Kohler

Tom L

Quote from: 4x4American on June 08, 2015, 07:26:23 PM
Peter D talked me into getting some 1-1/4" 7/8" .055" 7 degree blades from WM.  They are a fast blade, if you don't move quick enough you get chatter.  I have been getting used to them and am really liking them.  Other day I was sawing cedar and I cut through a 1/2" steel shank in the log.  The blade kept cutting straight, just kinda marked the wood like a high tooth would.  So I made another cut, and it was flat as a pancake that was run over by a vibratory roller.  I was impressed.  I took the blade off after that and looked at the teeth and they had some skin peeling off but no teeth missing. I might can fix them on the grinder.  That left me real impressed.  They are a bear to coil though being thick.  But doable.  Anyhows.  Once I tossed a black locust log on, they did great cutting that too.  The locust had been down and laying on the ground since sept-october.  I was able to peel the bark off the locust fairly easily, so that helped quite a bit.


I would recommend these blades to anyone who has the hp to pull them.

buy a couple of the 1-1/2" 055 7s and try them out, they will fit and you just have to make a small adjustment on the drive rolls, them things cut, worth the money just to see them go for a couple of blades

Magicman

I clean the welds with lacquer thinner and usually use Krylon paint.  The paint will still be visible after sawing so I repaint them before going back to ReSharp.  Yes, I send them all to ReSharp in the same box and I have never had a blade resharpened to a different profile.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

4x4American

That's too much effort!  Paint pen is all I use.
Boy, back in my day..

AnthonyW

Quote from: Magicman on June 09, 2015, 05:12:08 PM
I clean the welds with lacquer thinner and usually use Krylon paint.  The paint will still be visible after sawing so I repaint them before going back to ReSharp.  Yes, I send them all to ReSharp in the same box and I have never had a blade resharpened to a different profile.

I was wondering if you have to keep all the same angle together or can they be mixed together when they are sent to Resharp. I have been keeping mine separate but it would be easier not to.
'97 Wood-Mizer LT25 All Manual with 15HP Kohler

Magicman

You do need a way for you to quickly identify them when they are returned. 
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

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