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V- groove wheels

Started by breazyears, May 31, 2015, 12:17:47 PM

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breazyears

Just looking for an opinion on these wheels http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CC41RSQ/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AYC4UHO25LK1T
Also... im making a new sawmill, and would like to know a common band blade size that people use? mine will be using 5.3-12 tires. I will build around the blade if theirs a popular length that people use.
Thanks.

justallan1

Breazy, I think you have to figure out what size mill you want to build, or what size logs you plan to saw and go from there. I'd take a look at what you will have for logs and add at least 6" to your width. I certainly understand building around your blades and the availability of them, so once you figure out what you are going to be sawing, I'd start looking for a common size available from as many companies as possible to take advantage of having more of a choice of where to get them in case prices and quality should change on your first choice.
Hope this helps.

ladylake


  My TK B20 uses 12" 6" , a TK 2000 uses 14" 6",  I think a common WM size is 13" 6",  it really doesn't matter what size you end up with as they will weld them any length you want.   On those wheels make sure the have a good sized bearing.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

mason44

Those wheels have a sealed bearing and a riveted axle which means bearings cant be easily greased or replaced. Not necessarily a bad thing but greasable bearing last longer as long as you keep them greased

Larry

Quote from: breazyears on May 31, 2015, 12:17:47 PM
Also... im making a new sawmill, and would like to know a common band blade size that people use? mine will be using 5.3-12 tires. I will build around the blade if theirs a popular length that people use.
Thanks.

Like Steve said you can get any length and its no extra cost.  But lets see....most common set in use is 7/8".  Teeth on bands come in a set of three.  Left, right, and straight.  Three times 7/8" = 2 5/8".  If we pick a length divisible by 2 5/8" equally, the pattern repeats perfectly no matter where they cut the band.  14' even meets my criteria. 

Length won't make any difference in the cut, so why did I bring it up?  A good performing mill is the result of attention to details, no matter how small.

Check my math...I usually day dreamed in that class. :D
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

Ox

For what it's worth my neighbor's Woodmizer LT70 Super uses 158" (13'2").  My homemade mill, basically a Linn Lumber 1900, uses the same thing.  1 1/4" wide and 7/8" tooth spacing blades are most the common with smaller and midsize mills.
The larger mills use 1 1/2" wide blades because you can push them harder for production purposes but the flex life isn't as good as 1 1/4" blades because the wider blades are generally thicker as well.
Of course there are exceptions to every rule.  I'm speaking in generalities.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

breazyears

thanks guys,
I was thinking around 14' for the blade. That would give me more than enough, so I think ill go with the 158"- 13'2".
Ladylake...I will be using this hub http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/1-000-lb-4-bolt-posi-lube-stub-axle/A-p8217242e  on the one side, this side will also have the tracking, and tension adjustments. The other side will have a 1" axel and pillow blocks, with a atv hub.

Ox

I'm thinking the 1" shaft won't be strong enough, unfortunately.  If you're using tires, perhaps, but not if you're using belted pulleys or steel wheels.
For comparison, my mill uses 1 7/16" shafts.  It goes up to 3,000 psi on the hydraulic tensioner with tight belts on 19" pulleys.  You'll never get that tension on a tire mill, so everything being relative 1" shafts may work.  I can't remember what the Turner mills use.

Hopefully someone here will pipe up and share what they've used and if it worked good or not.

I hate to say it, but I really don't think 1" will be strong enough.  It'll break pretty quickly unless you run very loose tension and then you'll be getting really wavy lumber.  I would think 1 1/4" shaft would be the minimum.

Please don't take my suggestions as knocking down your ideas, I'm trying to help you from wasting unnecessary money and possibly causing damage to others or your mill.   :)


K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

boscojmb

X2 On the 1" shaft being too lite. My mill uses a 2" shaft. 1-1/2" May work if you are staying small.

I think the 1000 Lb stub axle and hub is also kind of light.

My mill uses the same design. I don't know what the axle rating is, but I suspect that it is 3000 lb or more. My mill is bigger than most, but you want to go as heavy as you can with the axle and hub. 1750 Lb stub axle and hub is a common size. Why not go with that?
John B.

Log-Master LM4

breazyears

OK.. Going with a 2500lb hub, and 1.5" axle on the idler side. Thanks guys.
Got a travel trailer stripped down to the frame. Got a centrifugal clutch for my engine for free  8)
Now the expensive part... buying the steel. Have to figure out what size and wall thickness first.
Thanks again.

Ox

For what it's worth, a majority of my mill I built with 2",  3/16" wall square tubing.  2 1/2", 3/16" wall square tubing will slide over this.  1 1/2", 3/16" wall square tubing will fit inside the 2".
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

bkaimwood

I got my v groove wheels from McMaster Carr... They are greasable, heavy duty, and are still going...I got the ones rated for 800# each, and my saw head weighs 3000#...4 post design, so I'm closer than I would like to the rating, but they are quality, and are faring well...I run a 16' blade...blade length won't matter much as previously posted, they make them whatever u want..mine is made of all 1/4", but unless yours will end up being as ridiculously heavy as mine, 3/16" is plenty...
bk

Nomad

     Breazy, just keep in mind that whatever length you pick bands come in 3 tooth groups.  Meaning left, right, and raker.  Most common tooth spacing for mills like ours is 7/8".  If you pick something like 158" it'll work great.  Pick something off the wall and it's problematic, but that's the reason why.  Most of the companies don't charge extra for odd-ball lengths, but you can have issues if you don't take those numbers into account.  If I was building a mill I'd try to shoot for a standard size used by either WoodMizer or TK.  Makes life a lot easier.
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
WoodMizer LT50HDD51-WR
Lucas DSM23-19

boscojmb

Quote from: nomad on June 02, 2015, 09:54:04 PM
     Breazy, just keep in mind that whatever length you pick bands come in 3 tooth groups.  Meaning left, right, and raker.  Most common tooth spacing for mills like ours is 7/8".  If you pick something like 158" it'll work great.  Pick something off the wall and it's problematic, but that's the reason why.  Most of the companies don't charge extra for odd-ball lengths, but you can have issues if you don't take those numbers into account.  If I was building a mill I'd try to shoot for a standard size used by either WoodMizer or TK.  Makes life a lot easier.

Nomad said it better than I could have myself. I have 2 thoughts to add.

If you are in Canada, make sure that your local blade distributor stocks your blade size. Manufacturers in the US can make any size you want, but shipping across the border will kill you. 158" is the most common size.

Keep your blade as short as possible. I run 1.5" X .055 X 229" bands, and they are expensive. Longer bands may last just a touch longer, but if you hit a nail, it's a twice the price mistake.

John B
John B.

Log-Master LM4

scsmith42

Quote from: Ox on June 02, 2015, 12:25:45 PM
For what it's worth, a majority of my mill I built with 2",  3/16" wall square tubing.  2 1/2", 3/16" wall square tubing will slide over this.  1 1/2", 3/16" wall square tubing will fit inside the 2".

Hey Ox, I like your avatar!  :D  :D  ;D
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

Ox

 ;D  I speaketh the truth.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

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