Advice from Lucas Mill Owners on buying used?

[Mulekicker]

Greetings,

New member here looking to buy first sawmill.  I know someone with a Lucas Mill for sale, that (supposedly) hasn't had much use, but has been sitting and has definitely been exposed to the weather for a fair bit...

Since I haven't owned one before, I was curious if any of you out there who have been sawing with a Lucas for awhile could chime in on the parts that need frequent replacing, and anything specific to look for when checking it out that might be a very costly repair.  I haven't seen it in person yet, just some photos, has the 25hp kohler engine...

thanks!

[JohnM]

First off, welcome to the forum, Mulekicker. 

I've only had my 'used' Lucas a couple of years (story here if you want to kill a few minutes https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,66889.0.html) and haven't even put a 100hrs on it yet.  I can tell you I wouldn't trade my mill for anything (except for a model 10 of course ;D).  I haven't worn anything out on it yet so no help there.  Others (@sigidi  :D) will jump in shortly and let you know what to look for.  Good with it, it's a great mill.

[Ianab]

Engine and gearbox are the expensive parts.  If those are in good condtition, and the frame and rails are straight, then any other little bits and pieces are minor. Blades / rollers etc are routine maintenance parts, you might have to do some work on those, but that's no big deal.

Even if the engine was tired (or even dead), that can be replaced, as long as the price of the mill reflects the worn out engine.

Basically make sure evenything works, or problems are at least minor. The mills are fully manaual, you can see what the moving parts do, and usually work out why they aren't. You might need to give the mill a full alignment, lube everything that needs lubing, replace the carriage rollers, and get the blades retipped. But those are the sort of things you expect to do occasionally anyway.

[sigidi]

Mule kicker, welcome to the forum mate.

They are a robust bit of gear, not a lot can be wring with them.

A 25hp model will have a grease nipple on the output shaft from the gearbox to the blade hub. This 'should' be greased at the end of each days milling. It would be the most expensive thing to rectify if the previous owner has been lazy - requires full replacement of gearbox as you can't get to it to replace the bearing if they haven't greased it. So one thing to do is check this bearing...take blade guard off...while engine is off...hold gearbox pulley in one hand and blade with other hand...try and turn blade back and forth while gripping pulley, there should be at most 1/4" of blade travel while the pulley is locked off. Also you will be able to hear for any wear in that pulley while you do this and any play sideways. If the gearbox is all aluminium with no grease nipple you are set, the gearbox has been replaced.

Straight off, I'd throw away all rollers, 6 in total and around $80 down here I replace them every 200 hours. Also replace the blade bolts if ya get it, about $25 down here.

Check under the frame where the side shift brake clamps on. Look for signs of wear to the aluminium, or cracks at the same time look at the condition of the white PVC pipe, if the pipe has no grease under it, it will have worn a large flat and they will over tighten the brake to compensate for lack of grease on the pipe.

Check put the bracket that holds the blade guard, make sure both 'fingers' are parallel to each other and in the same plane as each other, if one is 'kinked' out of alligment with the other, this could mean the power head has been dropped and you will need to check the carriage for square.

Remove the guard from around the muffler, look for holes or cracks to the muffler and the 'exhaust manifold' pipes as well as brackets holding it.

DanG, maybe it'll be better to give me a ring or my two fingers will get cramp......

[logboy]

sigidi hit the main points. The trolly wheels and bearings are a cheap easy fix, and you'll need to buy spares anyway. The big money items are the motor and gearbox. Do the gearbox bearing test like Sigidi said. Id go one step further and pull the bottom drain plug on the gearbox to see if there is any water in it, or if the transmission fluid looks more like motor oil. A gearbox is not a cheap fix and needs to be completely replaced. The motor is just a motor like any other piece of equipment and should be checked as such. Take a good long look down the top of the rails and make sure they havent been bent or kinked in anyway. Some guys get lazy and load logs over the top of the rails, then its only a matter of time until they get bent down by a bucket or forks.

If it has been sitting out in the weather more than likely the blade will be rusted to the hub. If that happens the bolts will be a bear to get out, and the blade will have to be very carefully heated without cooking the hub and bearing. If you heat the blade, you'll then have to send it out to a competent saw shop to get hammered back flat because it will be warped afterward and wobble.

Make sure they have the tool kit with the sharpener for the blades.

[dgdrls]

Welcome Mulekicker,

I don't have much to add as the others have covered it quite well.
They are a dandy mill and provide great service without too much fuss.

best
DGDrls