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Any pics of "Hydraulics Anywhere"?

Started by WV Sawmiller, May 26, 2015, 09:53:37 AM

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WV Sawmiller

If any of you have added the "Hydraulics Anywhere" feature to your hydraulic WM mill can you please post pics of how you did it. I've read several thread where people did this.

I love my mill and understand WM had safety in mind when they designed the mill so the head has to be all the way forward touching the power strip before the hydraulics can be engaged but I have come to the conclusion it will actually be safer if I can use the hydraulics any time I need them. I keep getting halfway through a log then finding I estimated the height wrong, especially when I get real close to the bed on thinner cants, and need to lower a clamp 1/4" more to clear it with the blade. When backing out the band often binds and jumps off the wheels and is generally a pita to pull free and reinstall. If I could adjust on the fly most of these cases could be avoided

Thanks for your help.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

Ga Mtn Man

I went the second battery route:


 
Keep in mind that the battery will only charge when the head is on the power strip so use the hydraulics sparingly when the head is away from the strip and let the engine idle on the strip to keep the battery charged.  I did this mod over a year ago and it has worked well so far.  There's room inside the hydraulic box (on an LT-40) for a second battery if you don't have two pumps (some here on the FF have expressed concern about that being a fire hazard) .   
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

Sixacresand

I wonder if strips could be added on the WM mills so you would have "Hydraulics Anywhere".  GMM gave me the diagrams and directions to add a battery, but I never did it.  Thus far, when I get into trouble (which happens more often than I like to admit)  and need hydraulics, I shut down and connect jumper cables from a battery to the power strip. 
"Sometimes you can make more hay with less equipment if you just use your head."  Tom, Forestry Forum.  Tenth year with a LT40 Woodmizer,

WV Sawmiller

Not sure how to hook up the second battery. Where do I make the connections? Not worried about running the battery down too much when head is away from the strip as only need it on rare occasion when I mis-judged clamp height. Most of the hydraulic use would still be when the head is at the front on the strip.

Someone mentioned using a #4 welding wire/cable to the strip but I don't know where I'd need to make the connections.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

POSTON WIDEHEAD

Quote from: Sixacresand on May 26, 2015, 12:27:19 PM
I wonder if strips could be added on the WM mills so you would have "Hydraulics Anywhere".  GMM gave me the diagrams and directions to add a battery, but I never did it.  Thus far, when I get into trouble (which happens more often than I like to admit)  and need hydraulics, I shut down and connect jumper cables from a battery to the power strip.

Six, I was thinking about this today. Not a bad idea.
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

4x4American

I was also pondering about having hydraulics anywhere.  In my case where I have a remote mill that has a cat track, I have been thinking that I might just take some welding lead cord that I have setting around and run it through the cat track, eliminating the power strip completely. 
Boy, back in my day..

WV Sawmiller

4X,

    That sounds like what I am wanting to do. Where would I make the connections to do so?
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

4x4American

I haven't looked far into it yet, but for me all I will do is see what the power strip and the contact piece are connected to, and then eliminate them by connecting them with the welding cable.  For me it shouldn't be too bad because I already have the cat track.   
Boy, back in my day..

Ga Mtn Man

Quote from: WV Sawmiller on May 26, 2015, 09:04:16 PM
4X,

    That sounds like what I am wanting to do. Where would I make the connections to do so?
Does your LT-35 have a remote operator console?
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

WV Sawmiller

GMM,

   No I have power feed but I have to walk beside the head while cutting.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

Ga Mtn Man

Running a cable to replace the contact strip can only be done on a mill with Remote Operator Station.  Your options are to add another contact strip to the other end of the mill (the LT-70 is configured this way) or to connect a second battery.  The second battery + is connected to the cable in the hydraulic box running from the contact strip to the solenoid.  The (-) terminal is connected to the GND bolt inside the hydraulic box.  Or you can do as many others do and just use jumper cables to connect a second battery to the contact strip when the need arises.
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

YellowHammer

Using a couple welding cables to get full time hydraulics is just about the best modification you can do to a remote console mill.  It allows you to do log handling and loader movements before, during and after the cut so things can be done in parrallel not sequentially and saves an amazing amount of time and dramatically increases productivity.  It is also a tremendous safety feature in that it allows the operator to traverse the head to the far end of the mill and release clamps, rotate logs, etc, out of the off bearers way, so there is no way the saw or debarker can bite them. 
I have an LT40 with hydraulics anywhere and recently used a new LT50 with the same power engine with only the single stock power strip hydraulics and after a while I told the owner I'd rather saw with mine as I was almost as fast with a lot better visibility working the hydros with the head a the far end out of the way. Of course, if the LT50 had anywhere hydraulics, it would have been extremely fast, smoking fast. 

Anyways, enough said, there are a couple very good examples on how to run cables for power anywhere hydraulics in the Sawmill Mods thread. I followed them step by step, and have had great success. 
YH
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

4x4American

Can't be too hard..just a matter of doing it.  What size cable did you use?  I'm not sure exactly what size cable I have lying around, but it's pretty thick.  Believe I have 50' of it.
Boy, back in my day..

terrifictimbersllc

1/0 welding cable.  Here is the thread by Peter Nyberg:  https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,44402.msg639595.html#msg639595
I ran 2 positive cables through the track to the hydraulic box, and one ground part way through the track exiting at the lower black plate and attached to the frame, for ground.  I left the traveling grounding contact to the lower track rail in place. 
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

WV Sawmiller

TT/Et. al,

   I am still somewhat confused. I see several comments about this only working with remote access mills. is this true and if so why? I'm still missing something. Thx for everyone's attention and support on this issue.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

4x4American

Quote from: WV Sawmiller on June 01, 2015, 08:27:51 PM
TT/Et. al,

   I am still somewhat confused. I see several comments about this only working with remote access mills. is this true and if so why? I'm still missing something. Thx for everyone's attention and support on this issue.


Because the remote mills have a cat track.  On a walk along mill, how are you easily going to route the wire from the headrig area to the battery area
Boy, back in my day..

Peter Drouin

When you cut lumber long enough, you will have [the eye] to not hit anything.  Same way to get the log set up level on the mill. Or know where the hydro handels are without looking for them or which one you want. ;D
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

4x4American

Yup I haven't sawed for too awful long but once I calibrated my eyes I have a pretty good idea where the blade will be.  I try to focus on the blade, and when I see just a little line, I know that right about there is where the blade will be and can see down the log, the blade's path will be pretty clear.  Thing I've noticed with the WM mills is that I find you really only can do one hydraulic function at a time, cause of the electro/hydraulic setup.  Don't much matter though anyhow cause these mills still are little rocket ships
Boy, back in my day..

Peter Drouin

Quote from: 4x4American on June 01, 2015, 11:05:45 PM
Yup I haven't sawed for too awful long but once I calibrated my eyes I have a pretty good idea where the blade will be.  I try to focus on the blade, and when I see just a little line, I know that right about there is where the blade will be and can see down the log, the blade's path will be pretty clear.  Thing I've noticed with the WM mills is that I find you really only can do one hydraulic function at a time, cause of the electro/hydraulic setup.  Don't much matter though anyhow cause these mills still are little rocket ships


smiley_thumbsup
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Percy

Quote from: Peter Drouin on June 01, 2015, 09:45:30 PM
When you cut lumber long enough, you will have the eye to not hit anything.  Same way to get the log set up level on the mill. Or know where the hydro handels are without looking for them or which one you want. ;D

Issat eye for sale??? Id trade you for my eye but I dont think youd be happy :D :D

Seriously though, I have a remote LT70 circa 2003 and have been milling since 1997. While I have gotten better at it,  my eye dont cut it always...hey !!! I made a joke there. I have hydralics anywhere since 2004. A time saver for "deadeye"
GOLDEN RULE : The guy with the gold, makes the rules.

Peter Drouin

Quote from: Percy on June 01, 2015, 11:27:57 PM
Quote from: Peter Drouin on June 01, 2015, 09:45:30 PM
When you cut lumber long enough, you will have the eye to not hit anything.  Same way to get the log set up level on the mill. Or know where the hydro handels are without looking for them or which one you want. ;D

Issat eye for sale??? Id trade you for my eye but I dont think youd be happy :D :D

Seriously though, I have a remote LT70 circa 2003 and have been milling since 1997. While I have gotten better at it,  my eye dont cut it always...hey !!! I made a joke there. I have hydralics anywhere since 2004. A time saver for "deadeye"



We all do what we have to do to make all this work, Like when you put wood in an edger and get all the trim off in one pass, I need to work on that.  :D :D :D :D
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

WV Sawmiller

Peter,

   Now you've gone and hurt my feelings (I'm real sensitive that way you know!) picking on me for my youth and inexperience.

   I, and I am sure all of us, have to move the hydraulics less and less as I/we go along but it only takes a 1/8" miscalculation and that is hard to see from 12' away when setting up the log/cant. It always occurs on the last cut or two when you are really low on the cut. Its a trade off trying to be sure the clamp is low enough and trying to keep enough bite on the wood to keep it from pulling free snatching the band off and ruining the board. Lacking any visible gauge on the clamps, etc to know exactly how high they are so you can be sure they are below the cut the next best thing I can think of is to be able to correct on the fly.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

Magicman

Now Peter you gotta admit that it's easier to judge stuff when you are sitting down.  Especially when the umbrella is up.   ;D
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

SawyerBrown

Hey, seriously, MM, can you see the clamp from your throne? 
Pete Brown, Saw It There LLC.  Wood-mizer LT35HDG25, Farmall 'M', 16' trailer.  Custom sawing only (at this time).  Long-time woodworker ... short-time sawyer!

Magicman

Yes.


 
But with very large logs, I sometimes sit on the seat's back.  It also gives you a nice perch so that you can see the blade guide/log clamp over the log.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

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