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Is there a trick to move a big log towards up and down the mill?

Started by Stuart Caruk, May 25, 2015, 09:13:28 PM

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Stuart Caruk

I've got a Woodmizer LT35Hyd with the log turner, loader, and clamp system. I have several large logs that I'm milling into beams that need to be 20'6" long. Most of the logs are bucked at 22', so I can load them on the mill, and trim them to fit before cutting. A few are barely long enough and I generally load them as close to where I need them as possible, but often find they need to be repositioned 3 or 4 inches up or down the rails to allow me to cut the entire log. I can use the toe rollers to lift one end slightly higher, but it's still a huge effort to shift the log a few inches. The rollers make it a cinch once the log is flat and flipped over.

I use the log clamp to move and flip logs all the time and it makes life easy. I figure that some of you must have developed a simple trick like using the log turner to help drag logs to the mill. Anyone care to share their solution, short of grabbing a bigger piece of machinery or a bigger hammer...
Stuart Caruk
Wood-Mizer LX450 Diesel w/ debarker and home brewed extension, live log deck and outfeed rolls. Woodmizer twin blade edger, Barko 450 log loader, Clark 666 Grapple Skidder w/ 200' of mainline. Bobcats and forklifts.

octam1

We use the dual plane clamp and a chain with hooks all the time to roll logs onto the loading arms... I dont have any videos or pictures but maybe we can get some... You can put the chain on the clamp, put the hook on the log & bring the clamp into the rail and the log will roll... You have to roll a little and reposition but it works well and saves the back through out the day!
KnottHead Custom Sawing & FabWorx
Ceres/Twain Harte CA.

WoodMizer LT40SHDG38 w/AS2 & Debarker
Lucas 8-20 Swinger w/60" Slabber & Planer
Solar/Dehumidifier Kiln in the worx
Stihl - 2x 026's, 044, 046, 2x 066, MS660, 2x 088 & 3x 075AV

CharlieA

I just use a peavey to move the log while I have them up on the toeboards.  I just use whatever part of the mill I can to wedge the point of the peavey and use it as a lever.  Works every time.  If you cant use the mill as a fulcrum, them sick the hook of the peavey into the butt end of the log and give her a good yank while up on the toeboards.  Where there is a way, there is a will...  ;)
Good, Fast, Cheap... Pick 2.

thechknhwk

I'm with charlie, also helps to have it rolled away from the back supports if possible so it's not hanging up on them.

kelLOGg

If I see that a big log is not going to roll onto the mill exactly where I want it, I place three 3" diameter pipes across the rails for the log to roll onto. Then it is a simple matter (generally) to push/pull/pry the log a few inches (or even feet sometimes) to get it where I want it.
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

bandmiller2

Stu, as you have noticed its easier to slide a log on a flat sawn surface. Small gains can be made by jockeying the log/cant back and fourth. If still in the round roll it back on the lift arms and you can gain a little. Roller toe boards are the easiest. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

west penn


  Try raising the log with the toe board and put a round piece of firewood (about 2" dia.) between the log and the rail parrallel with the rail. let the log back down so it rests on the piece of wood. then pry in the direction you want to move. it will move much easier a few inches until the firewood rolls off the rail.   

Hilltop366

 Increase your leverage.  I have used a 10' long 3" x 5" stick on the frame and under the log, just like rowing a boat. A bump on top of the stick would keep the log from rolling towards you.

Ga Mtn Man

I know of at least one FF member who uses a hook and chain attached to the hydraulic log stops to move logs fore and aft.  A come-a-long with a hook might be a safer (for the mill) choice.

Raising one toe roller all the way up and the other up just so that the log clears the bunks will give you a little down hill slope, which sometimes is enough to move the log by hand.   

"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

Larry

While the log is on the loader arms I put a nylon sling around one end.  Than I load it so I have to pull on that end to get it to fit using my little winch.

Some years ago I bought this little hand winch at a flea market for a few dollars.  Some how I broke the crank handle clean off and lost it.  Instead of making a new handle I fitted a socket to the input shaft.  Now I just plug in the cordless drill.  It has maybe 15' of line and I can make around 5 pulls with the cordless before the batteries exhaust.  I like pulling a trigger lots better than the cranking I used to do with it.



It has really got me out of a few binds when I needed to reposition a log or even pull one to the mill.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

Ox

Using your roller toe boards and a come-a-long seems like a cheap effective way. 
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Sixacresand

My trick is try to get them centered before loading them on the mill.  I try to find the approximate weight center and line it up with the claw turner.  If it is balanced enough to load and off balance with the claw turner,  you might still have problems turning.  In my case, the light end will try to jump over the log stop get crossways of the mill.  I stick a 4 ft piece of pipe over the log stop if it looks this might happen. But once I finally get a flat side down the bed, I can put the log where is need to be with the rollers.  As for moving logs up and down the bed, I  use a come a long and strap to pull it. 
"Sometimes you can make more hay with less equipment if you just use your head."  Tom, Forestry Forum.  Tenth year with a LT40 Woodmizer,

redprospector

I'm with Larry on using a winch...any winch.
Years ago I ran an old LT30 that would cut 16'6" if you held your mouth just right. I took a worm drive boat winch, and made a sleeve to mount it too that would slide over the frame rail. It was a little bulky, but I never loaded a log that it wouldn't move as much as you wanted with minimal effort.
1996 Timber King B-20 with 14' extension, Morgan Mini Scragg Mill, Fastline Band Scragg Mill (project), 1973 JD 440-b skidder, 2008 Bobcat T-320 with buckets, grapple, auger, Tushogg mulching head, etc., 2006 Fecon FTX-90L with Bull Hog 74SS head, 1994 Vermeer 1250 BC Chipper. A bunch of chainsaws.

pineywoods

Beleive it or not, there are sawyers on here who have a forklift with side shift.
Not me, but I know one.. ;D I can usually get the forks on my tractor under the log and move it a few inches at a time.
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

Larry

I have side shift on my forklift.  Works great if there is somebody telling me how much to go.  By myself the winch is faster, and easier.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

Stuart Caruk

I've got a forklift with sideshift, but that only works at the shop, not when I take the mill on a job. Never thought of the guide arm hydraulic motion. I think I'm going to weld in a couple hard points for some snatch blocks that I can use the log turner or clamp cylinder to tug on a cable. It won't take much, but a peavy is just not enough oooomph... even for a big fat guy. Besides, I'm all about working smarter not harder. Thanks for the ides.

Stu
Stuart Caruk
Wood-Mizer LX450 Diesel w/ debarker and home brewed extension, live log deck and outfeed rolls. Woodmizer twin blade edger, Barko 450 log loader, Clark 666 Grapple Skidder w/ 200' of mainline. Bobcats and forklifts.

bkaimwood

I use a 6 foot piece of 2" black pipe anywhere is fits in the mill to the greatest mechanical advantage... Amazing what you can move when you have a few inches stuffed in somewhere and a pivot point, and so much bar to lever on the other end...I also have improved on this high tech device with a piece of 2x2 square welded on one end...it take up space when the pry point needs filling, or works as a heel when needed...this powerful tool has the ability to be used from either end...its also cheap...and can be used as a hammer or slide hammer...I also designed this tool as a forklift fork mover over when they get stuck...take great car with this tool as if you are irresponsible it can put dents and scratches in your truck...in a pinch I use a cheap harbor freight winch...work good too...
bk

justallan1

I don't have toe rollers, so I stick my cant hook or a long piece of pipe under one end of the log and on top of the track and sit on it, getting it as high as possible. Then roll another piece of pipe as close to the center as possible and use the cant hook to move the log whichever way you want it to go, then pick it up again and remove my chunk of pipe.
On the new mill I just built a 5' extension for the tracks. ;D

Peter Drouin

Get it lined up first , then put the log on the mill.


  

  

 

A thing I made to move the logs around before loading. With this you can have the log perfect. :D :D
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Sixacresand

"Sometimes you can make more hay with less equipment if you just use your head."  Tom, Forestry Forum.  Tenth year with a LT40 Woodmizer,

Magicman

As Peter said, it is easier to position the log correctly before it is loaded.  Many times I will unload a log, shift it, and then reload.


 
When I do need to shift a log on the toe rollers, I use the Side Supports and my chain/end tong.  Be careful with the Side Supports because you do not want to get too low and loose the log off of the side.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Sixacresand

Quote from: Sixacresand on May 26, 2015, 10:13:19 PM
My trick is try to get them centered before loading them on the mill.  I try to find the approximate weight center and line it up with the claw turner.
I should takes this guy's advice.

 
Not any prettier from this angle.

 
Log Arch and come-a-long to the recue.


 
Fifteen minutes later, properly loaded/balance log.


 
"Sometimes you can make more hay with less equipment if you just use your head."  Tom, Forestry Forum.  Tenth year with a LT40 Woodmizer,

dustyhat

( sixacersand)  i dont think thats how you load the mill :D

Magicman

Anyway, that log needed it's "ears" cropped before loading it on the sawmill.   ;D
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Sixacresand

MM,  it did need some ears clipped for sure.  Just didn't take the time to fetch the chainsaw.  Shortcuts will usually bite you in butt.
"Sometimes you can make more hay with less equipment if you just use your head."  Tom, Forestry Forum.  Tenth year with a LT40 Woodmizer,

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