LT15 Custom Trailer Design - Feedback Needed

[kng]

All,

See the below pic.  It is a quick sketch showing my design.  (If anyone can tell me how to provide a higher resolution pic, I would appreciate it).



The trailer is designed so that the third section can be temporarily installed.  Please provide any feedback, but I'm specifically wondering about:

1) The metal stock size selection.

2)  The placement of the axle.

3)  My axle selection, which is:

http://www.easternmarine.com/48-round-tube-straight-trailer-axle-2200-lb

http://www.easternmarine.com/2200-lb-leaf-spring-suspension-kit-w-5-lug-hubs-spk-2200-002

http://www.easternmarine.com/loadstar-st205-75d-14-tire-ptd-rim

Any recommendations?  I don't have a ton of welding experience, but I have access to lots of help.


thanks in advanced,
-Kyle

[AnthonyW]

What is your plan for loading the logs onto the mill?

Having an LT25 with the wheel on the operator side sticking out where I have to walk gets annoying. I would suggest, if possible, to raise the mill up (uggg I know) and shift it over to the operator side such that the wheel is partially or completely under the mill. I would say, do what you can to get away from walking around the wheel.

[kng]

I'm going to have metal of 4x6 wood ramps that are about 6 feet long.  I may need to have a one foot "log deck" that comes out to clear the wheel, although the LT15GO does not have that.

[zopi]

You must have full support under the third section. Those bed sections will not take the stress of being cantilevered like that.  Look at tue GO chasis and work from there...dig through my gallery for install pictures. Do yourself a favor and use new fine adjust outriggers.

[AnthonyW]

I'm going to have metal of 4x6 wood ramps that are about 6 feet long.  I may need to have a one foot "log deck" that comes out to clear the wheel, although the LT15GO does not have that.

If you look closely at my avatar, you can see the ramp length, the bed height and width, and wheel placement are all strategically sized and placed such that the ramps straddle the wheel and the bed is high enough with long enough ramps the logs go right over the wheel (but you do have to remove the fender).

[kng]

zopi,

There is a note under the third section in my drawing that says, "Leg attachment here for third bed section".

I wished there was a way to post a high res photo. I don't want to violate FF user agreement by not posting in my gallery.

thanks,
-Kyle

[kng]

Does my steel selection look okay?

[Rougespear]

Your HSS specs look decent from my perspective.  To provide some info: I used 6x2x3/16" HSS for the trailer rails and bunks on my homemade sawmill.  I also put my saw bunks 30" on centre.  These specs seemed to be similar to what Cooks does with their MP32.

As far as axle placement, you need to figure out what tongue weight is ideal.  From there, fab up the entire track, and place a scale under the tongue.  Then move the saw carriage forward of the axle until you get the desired tongue weight... that will be your "travel" location to tie-down the head.  In this sense, you can place the axle more or less in the centre or slightly backward.  This is my two sense of info mind you.

[kng]

I have finally started on the trailer build this week.  I'm making good progress and will post some current state pictures soon.

I have a question about the "saw head rest pin" and brackets as installed on the LT15GO (I came across this in the owner's manual).  I'm not really following where it is installed, and haven't seen any find any good pics.

Can those with LT15GO or LT15 and a custom trailer show how they secure the head for travel? I will be going across some pretty rough terrain.

thanks!

[MartyParsons]

Hello ,
The saw head would need to be over the axle or balanced on the trailer axle for transport. Some weight on the hitch is needed but total weight on the hitch end would be a mistake. The new WM trailer system does not use a full frame but uses  braces between the bed rails. The bed rails are strong but the connection joint is what would need to be supported.
Marty

[kng]

Current status:

[Ljohnsaw]

Looking great!

For maneuverability, I would make the axle closer to the hitch.  Too far back and it is a bear to back up (reacts too slow) and you won't be able to take sharp turns very well.  Place your saw head forward at the point that you get about 15% of the trailer weight on the tongue.  Make a bracket that lines up with a bracket on the saw head and pin it in place for transport.

[Jemclimber]

Unless you plan to leave the third section off during transport I think you're making a mistake by not taking Zopi's advice. A bump will put a lot of strain on that connection. I would not put a jack directly on this mill, which has bolted joints. I would put it on the trailer support.  I think you want the trailer support to extend at least half way under the third section of the bed (preferably further) but it's your mill and your choice.
 
On a normal trailer the axle placement is generally about 60% back from the total length. I don't think this has to be "set in stone" (old saying) on a sawmill because you can move the head to get proper tongue weight. On a boat trailer for example the axle placement is much further back to compensate for the heavy motor.
 
I made my trailer out of 7" channel because I got it a a great price. (yard sale) I also made mine longer (25') in anticipating adding another section.


    

[kng]

The trailer is not designed to be moved with the third section installed.  In fact, I think I will rarely use the third section.

When it is used, there will be legs on the aft end of the third section to level and stabilize.

thanks,
-Kyle

[kng]

[Brad_bb]

If I were you, I would have used an existing LT15GO as the model for the build.  I have an LT15GO bought in April 2014.  Since then, they have eliminated the separate trailer frame and somehow used the mill frame as the structure.  From pics on their website, they made the frame sections one unit with solid tubes.  But that doesn't matter to you now.

Here is a post for my fine adjust legs for my extra bed sections.  Buy the feet from Woodmizer, and use the supplied square nuts supplied with these feet and the Square tubing size mentioned. 
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,81333.msg1238397.html#msg1238397



 

[kng]

Brad_bb,

The reason I went so much more rugged is that I will be taking my mill three miles off the grid up a pretty rough logging road.  I didn't want to risk damaging the integrity of the bed sections.  I would have went with the LT28 (with the more rugged design), as honestly the cost difference is small, but I'm at about 16 feet versus 26 feet length, which will matter when it comes to getting my mill where I want to easily.

I've seen your leg extensions before, and that is one of the ideas that I had in mind for the backside support of the third section.

thanks for your thoughts,
-Kyle

[kng]

...plus it will give me a solid place to mount a winch, ramps, toe boards, and hydraulics down the road without modifying the factory Woodmizer bed sections.

[21incher]

Looking great. I wish my shop was as clean and clutter free like yours. With the extra frame height do you plan on removing the wheels to get it to a comfortable working height?

[kng]

21incher,

That's actually my buddy's shop, and yes it's always that clean.  He's definitely got the metal side of the house covered. 

Here's my shop:



I do not plan to remove the wheels.  One of the things that Yellowhammer recommended to me was to get the mill up higher, so it's easier to off load boards.  From the little I've milled so far (only about 600 board feet), I believe it will be at a comfortable height.

thanks,
-Kyle

[YellowHammer]

It's looking good.   Getting the mill off the ground makes it much more comfortable to saw and offbear and also adds needed space under the mill for clearance for things like claw turners, motorized clamps, toe boards, etc.

[thecfarm]

All looks good. A little too high can be fixed with a shovel hole under each wheel.

[YellowHammer]

Since you are in a very capable steel shop, might as well make the simple log deck that I used on mine.  They worked great and were very portable as shown in reply #27 in the topic below where I kind of customized my old LT-15. 
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,53476.msg1086821.html#msg1086821

[kng]

Thanks Robert!  I definitely plan to do a log deck.  I think it will be helpful for several reasons.

No updates to report, as I have been on fall break with the family.

Does anyone have any photos of the Woodmizer saw head rest pin that they could share with me?

thanks,
-Kyle

[kng]

Trailer is "complete"!  Still a few things left to do, but I plan to cut tomorrow.



Fenders are removable.



Winch for loading logs.





Log turner.



Toe board.  I will add an old leaf spring to help the log stay in position.