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A couple WM ?s

Started by thechknhwk, May 17, 2015, 10:34:40 PM

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thechknhwk

Do these zerks come out?


And is the drive chain supposed to touch the power strip.  I did tension it to 7" per the manual

4x4American

Any grease zerks should come out, if you ask me...


I can't think of one good thing happening from the chain touching the power strip so I'd have to say no!
Boy, back in my day..

YellowHammer

One good way to make sure the drive chain is adjusted correctly is to tighten it until it is centered on the side reflector.  It shouldn't be as low as you are showing. 
YH
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

thechknhwk

The zerks do not have a nut/bolt style head on Them like I'm used to seeing; they're round.  I have like 4 of them that won't take grease.

On the chain, it says 7" from top of bed rail.... I measured from the top of the main beam not the tube on top of it.  Don't know if that was right.

LaneC

I think I remember a subject on this or read it somewhere that they are pressed in the hole. No threads. I distinctly remember someone saying DO NOT use a torch to heat them because they will build up pressure from the old grease inside and shoot out like a bullet. I am sure folks have done it, however I am just letting you know of a possible serious hazard. One way to get them out would be to drill and use an EZ out, and then tap and install threaded ones. They also make tool that you put ATF in and hit it with a hammer, and the hydraulic pressure blows the old grease out and then it may take grease like it is supposed to.
Man makes plans and God smiles

Stuart Caruk

They are tap in grease zerks. You drill a 1/4" hole and they have little ledges on the zerk itself. To install them you simply stick either the proper tool, or a snug fitting 12 point deep socket and tap them in with a ball peen hammer. To remove them you grab them with a decent set of channel locks and pivot them out. Replace them with new one. Tap in zerks work just fine.

It would be rare for the zerk to be stuck though. Typically the join is full of dried grease. What you need is a tool like a ZerkZapper (Google it). There are several different styles made by many people. They work great.
Stuart Caruk
Wood-Mizer LX450 Diesel w/ debarker and home brewed extension, live log deck and outfeed rolls. Woodmizer twin blade edger, Barko 450 log loader, Clark 666 Grapple Skidder w/ 200' of mainline. Bobcats and forklifts.

octam1

As far as the zerks go there are also grease guns out there that have a high pressure and low pressure switch on them, low pressure applies a standard amount of grease per pump an a normal grease gun, flip the switch and it applies a very small amount of grease but at a much higher pressure, hit a stuck grease zerk with the high pressure and it will usually open up allowing normal geasing to occurr...

All the major tool trucks sell them, tool warehouses sell them as well as many auto parts stores such as napa... We have one and im not recalling the mfg of it but i can look if anyone needs me too... It can be googled as "high pressure grease gun" as well...

As far as the chain goes, a good amount of contact on the copper contact strip could cause a short and sum blown fuses in the fuse box attached to the battery box so I dont think I would let my chain hit that cooper contact on the strip... Its not likely to happen but it very well could... Just an fyi...
KnottHead Custom Sawing & FabWorx
Ceres/Twain Harte CA.

WoodMizer LT40SHDG38 w/AS2 & Debarker
Lucas 8-20 Swinger w/60" Slabber & Planer
Solar/Dehumidifier Kiln in the worx
Stihl - 2x 026's, 044, 046, 2x 066, MS660, 2x 088 & 3x 075AV

4x4American

Quote from: LaneC on May 17, 2015, 11:19:45 PM
I think I remember a subject on this or read it somewhere that they are pressed in the hole. No threads. I distinctly remember someone saying DO NOT use a torch to heat them because they will build up pressure from the old grease inside and shoot out like a bullet. I am sure folks have done it, however I am just letting you know of a possible serious hazard. One way to get them out would be to drill and use an EZ out, and then tap and install threaded ones. They also make tool that you put ATF in and hit it with a hammer, and the hydraulic pressure blows the old grease out and then it may take grease like it is supposed to.


lol, well then using a torch to me sounds like the easiest way to get them out!
Boy, back in my day..

bandmiller2

Those cheap pressed in zerks will usually fall out or come off on the grease gun. Then you can tap and install a proper one. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Tom L

those zerkzappers work great for me

I run oil thru most of my machine fittings once a year, use it on all my machinery,

MartyParsons

Hello,
I remove them with a hammer. Hit them at an angle. Drill out  and tap for screw in fittings. 1/8" 24 tpi I think the drill bit is 7/32"
 
From the manual
Adjust the power feed chain as needed. Measure the power feed chain tension with the
saw head all the way toward the front of the mill. Use the two lock nuts at the rear of the
mill to tighten or loosen the power feed chain. Adjust the chain until it measures 7 to 8
inches (17.8 to 20.3 cm) from the top of the top rail at its lowest point.

CAUTION! Do not overtighten the feed chain. Damage to
the power feed motor may result.

If the bolt sticks out or you run out of adjustment. I remove some of the links. The chain is stretched it may wear the sprocket more because the chain rides up on the top of the teeth.  Has not been an issue I keep a press in the shop truck and do this quite often.

The bolt is hard on the legs if it sticks out.  :o

Hope this helps.
Marty
"A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty." -Winston Churchill

petefrom bearswamp

Adjusting bolt hard on the legs?
Ow ow ow I found out the hard way and put a short piece or rubber tubing on it.
Kubota 8540 tractor, FEL bucket and forks, Farmi winch
Kubota 900 RTV
Polaris 570 Sportsman ATV
3 Huskies 1 gas Echo 1 cordless Echo vintage Homelite super xl12
57 acres of woodland

pine

Quote from: MartyParsons on May 18, 2015, 09:36:20 AM
Hello,
I remove them with a hammer. Hit them at an angle. Drill out  and tap for screw in fittings. 1/8" 24 tpi I think the drill bit is 7/32"
Marty

I routinely see where folks recommend replacing the slide in fittings.  After they are out, to drill (if necessary) and then tap for screw in fittings.  I have always been apprehensive of that technique due to the metal filings/shavings from the drill/tap not being able to be kept from falling into the grease and hole and having metal chips in the grease that is supposedly protecting the joint.

How do you accomplish the drill and tap of a non threaded grease fitting hole without leaving/trapping contaminants in the bottom of the grease hole that can't be removed thus leaving metal in the protective grease?

4x4American

use a magnet, brake clean n compressed air to clean the filings out
Boy, back in my day..

pine

Yes but without an exit point for the air it can't blow the filings out they just circulate in the cavity don't they? 

The brake clean will dissolve the grease so that it does not bind and hold the metal filings, but I still don't understand how the air does anything other than circulate the filings in the cavity.

Dave Shepard

They will blow out. The brake clean dissolves the grease. Depending on the depth of the tapping, you might needed a taper tap and a bottoming tap.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

beenthere

Blow the air across the top of the hole and it will create a vacuum that will suck out the filings.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Nomad

     Clean the hole with a solvent first to get the stuff that traps shavings out.  Then tap it and do what BT says.
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
WoodMizer LT50HDD51-WR
Lucas DSM23-19

Chuck White

I don't have my manual handy (out in the truck), but I think my manual says use a string from the front attatching point to the rear attatching point and the chain should be adjusted for 2 inches of sag with the saw head all the way forward or aft.
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

4x4American

Go on and try for yourself you'll see just play with it a bit.  The brake clean will help the filings not stick to the grease, making it easier to blow out.  If you're doing it on a fitting that is near rubber parts, use carb cleaner instead, as it is gentle on rubber unlike brake clean
Boy, back in my day..

Ox

Gob everything up with grease.  Drill bits, taps, everything.  The metal filings will stick to the grease.  You'll have to clean and re-grease periodically depending on the length of the job.
Or stick a very strong magnet right next to the hole you're working on.  The magnet will probably want your bit and tap too, but let it scrub, it won't hurt anything.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

whitepine2

Quote from: Ox on May 18, 2015, 11:35:59 PM
Gob everything up with grease.  Drill bits, taps, everything.  The metal filings will stick to the grease.  You'll have to clean and re-grease periodically depending on the length of the job.
Or stick a very strong magnet right next to the hole you're working on.  The magnet will probably want your bit and tap too, but let it scrub, it won't hurt anything.
This is the way I go works well,was told when I was a teenager by an old time mechanic done it 40-50 times works every time.

terrifictimbersllc

Quote from: petefrom bearswamp on May 18, 2015, 12:08:02 PM
Adjusting bolt hard on the legs?
Ow ow ow I found out the hard way and put a short piece or rubber tubing on it.
Not kidding.  I punched a hole in the side of my garage with it.  ::) ::)
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

thechknhwk

I bought a zerk zapper, haven't got to try it yet.  Had to come to work...

Chuck White

I bought Pete's (petefrombearswamp) 1995 LT40HD and putting a 6-inch piece of heater hose on the adjusting bolt for the drive chain was one of the first things I did to it.

Bumped that heater hose quite a few times, hasn't hurt yet!  ;D
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

thechknhwk

The zerk zapper from NAPA was a joke unless you like getting sprayed with ATF or grease.  So I learned another hard lesson....  If you want to get the zerks to take grease pull the pivot pins so you can force the hard deposit into the void where the pin was, then clean the chunk out and put the pin back in, voila, it takes grease again.  The hard part of this lesson was after I broke off two of the press in fittings and was in the process of drilling them out to tap them and put in threaded zerks, when I broke a drill bit off in one of the holes.  I moved on to the second hole got the zerk in successfully and then realized it still doesn't take grease...  That's when I decided to pull the pins as mentioned previously.

On an upnote, it appears I have my drive chain adjusted properly.


Ox

Making progress is always good even if it's the biggest pain in the butt ever.
Better than the one farmer I had to work with.  If the zerk didn't take grease, that part didn't get grease.   ::)
I hate broken bits.  I've found that a small punch will work to sometimes either back it out in reverse using the drill flutes as threads or to just break it up and get it out.  Good thing about threaded zerks is you can go clear up to 3/8" or so, so you have several chances to get it right.  If the hole keeps having to be enlarged you can still bush it up/down with pipe fittings until you get it.  If you have the room for the extension, that is.
Worse case scenario, you might have a huge hole that needs oil squirted in it frequently and just keep it plugged with something.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Dave Shepard

So you have upgraded your LT35 to a Super Hydraulic?
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

thechknhwk

I did get about half of it it out with a punch.  I kept alternating between the punch, small drill bit, and a 7/32" bit til I felt the punch slip into the hole where the grease goes through.

Ox

YOU GOT 'ER BY THE......ahem.  You've got it now!   ;)
My little attempt at a little joke told by a little old farmer back when I was little.  Can't say the whole thing, of course. 
Glad to hear you're making progress.  Funny how a little thing like a plugged up zerk can make everything come to a halt.  It shows you care about your equipment.  Kinda like that little snap ring that holds everything on a rotating shaft.  A $0.50 part keeps a $100,000 rig in the prickers and ding weeds.
An old saying, "If you don't think the little things matter, try sleeping with a mosquito in your room".
Might have been mentioned on the forum somewhere, I can't remember where I read it.  Just rings so true.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

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