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back to the old frick

Started by jdw, May 07, 2015, 01:29:13 PM

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jdw

After wanting a frick I broke down and bought the norwood lm 29. But out running around the other day I found a frick not far from the house at a real good price. So I figure there's only one thing to do and that's buy it :D the tie market is pretty good so guess I'll park the norwood for a while. The only downside I see is having to take apart the frick and set it back up  :-*

bandmiller2

JDW, now you can go both ways, I bet you will prefer the circular once its set up. Spend a little time and visit different mills as how their set up makes a big difference on production and ease of use. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

jdw

I'd say your right I wanted one to start with but it didn't work out. Any one know where to get the instructions on setting one of these up?

beenthere

Not really setup instructions per se, but a very good resource for running circular saw... most of what you need to know I believe.

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/misc/circsaw.pdf
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Ron Wenrich

There's really not much to them.  I set one up without instructions and had it running in little time.  Where the problems are is in the alignment.  Just remember that all things need to be parallel and perpendicular.  Foundation is key.

The best thing to do is to take pictures as you dismantle.  Then you'll have a reference.  Basically, remove the cable.  The carriage is then free and can be removed.  Take the saw off the arbor.  Remove the arbor if it's a long one.  Take off the track and the husk.

I don't know what your plans are for the foundation.  I've seen them put on old, flat bed trailers and that ties the whole mill together.  Your husk must be mounted so there is no movement.  Adjustment allowance should be in the track area.  The track must be tied into the husk.  I used timbers under my husk that ran to the track.  Allow enough room under the saw area for sawdust removal.  That can be done either with a chain, conveyor or a blower.

Think through your operation before you install.  Like Bandmiller says, visit other mills and look at layouts.  It will save a lot of headaches in the future.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

bigred1951

Is it that frick thats on craigslist in rush?

SPD748

jdw,

Check my build thread for plenty of pictures. I can take more if you need them. As others have said, there really isn't much to an old circle mill. One thing I would definitely have done differently is to build a pit underneath the saw to allow for dust removal. Good luck!

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,58233.0.html

-lee
Frick 0 Handset - A continuing project dedicated to my Dad.

410 Deere, 240 Massey... I really need a rough terrain forklift :)

Sawing Since 1-19-2013 @ 3:30 pm
Serving Since 2002
"Some police officers give tickets, some gave all."

beenthere

Quote from: bigred1951 on May 08, 2015, 08:43:08 AM
Is it that frick thats on craigslist in rush?

Maybe he doesn't want it spread around, what he found..
It is one reason CL ad links are not allowed on the forum... just sayin.

Good to use a PM to ask such questions, I'm thinking.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

jdw

Went today and closed the deal on the sawmill now I just got to take it apart and move it  :laugh:

beenthere

south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

East ky logging

watch out how the cable is wrapped around the drum and the carriage location when you unhook it.
They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety- Benjamin Franklin

SPD748

Quote from: East ky logging on May 12, 2015, 05:10:15 AM
watch out how the cable is wrapped around the drum and the carriage location when you unhook it.

Yep, I took several pictures of the cable drum with the cable on it before disassembly. That and the distance between the track frame and husk seemed to be two of the more important things in my mind at the time.

-lee
Frick 0 Handset - A continuing project dedicated to my Dad.

410 Deere, 240 Massey... I really need a rough terrain forklift :)

Sawing Since 1-19-2013 @ 3:30 pm
Serving Since 2002
"Some police officers give tickets, some gave all."

bandmiller2

Lee just beat me, the relationship between the husk and the carriage is very important, pictures and measurements are in order. You will hear everyone say leave space under your mill for sawdust removal, for good reason. Has the mill run recently or lain fallow for many years, was it under cover.?? Did it  come with a power plant.?? Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

jdw

The one problem I'm having is when the last people set it up they left about 5 inches between the track and the blade they said they never measured it when they took it apart cause they were just cutting ties. Seems like a big gap I'm pretty sure it's a o model frick I would think the gap should be about1.250 does any one know for sure?

Ron Wenrich

I think the end of the headblock hangs out past the wheels by a bit.  A lot depends on how small you want to go.  I had my mill set so there was about ¾ - 1" between the edge of the headblock to the saw edge.  I didn't saw much below 1½" for a dog board, and that was a rarity.  Also, make sure your dogs pass when in all the way.

The way I set mine up was to lay down the track the way I thought I wanted it.  I put the carriage on the track without the cable.  It will roll easily.  Then, I put a saw on the arbor and see how close things were.  My foundation had beams that ran from the back of the husk to the far side of the track.  I notched a piece in the beam so the track sat down in it.  It doesn't have to be the whole way.  Then, I used shims to set the distance I needed from the husk.  The shims also help when you need to adjust the track.  Hope that makes sense.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

oros35

I agree with what has been said here.  (although I am far from an expert!)

When I got my Frick 0, it was not assembled, but all the pieces were there.  (not in the best condition but I could get reasonable measurements off of them)  My track ways set in notches in beams tying the husk to the tracks.  About 5 " sounds about right to me.  The headblock hangs over pretty good.  I copied the beams and when reassembled everything fit together nicely.  I have about a 1/2 -3/4 inch gap between the blade and headblock.  There is room to shim closer or further in the groove for the ways. I believe the notch is about 1 1/2" deep and about 1" oversized wide.  I drove some shims in to keep it tight. 
the height is another consideration.  The shape of the headblocks hugs the blade nut on the mandrel.  I could probably get a little closer, but everything seems to line up pretty good the way I have it. 

bandmiller2

If you bought your circular mill in a pile or didn't take pictures and measurements you have to figure. You want the bottom of the knees to just clear the loose collar and nut and about 5/8" from the end of the knee to the saw. That will allow you full advantage of the saws diameter and allow you to cut a 1" dog board. If your the nervous type leave a little more clearance. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

chopperdr47

Im in the process of moving my Frick as well. Ties take more room than my wife would allow. I knew nothing about circle mills at all when I got it and the guys here helped me to get it cutting some very nice wood.

One piece of advice that I would offer is not to take short cuts when setting up. Its not difficult to align all the planets properly if you start from the beginning and not the middle.

After getting the husk on a solid level foundation (mine is on bridge ties on a hard clay bed) ensure the track is straight and square to the husk. I used an inexpensive laser level from Harbor Freight that worked very well and a lot of Pythagoras's theorem.

Getting that done well makes setting the lead a breeze. One other thing that I did to get a consistent 1" dog board without it slipping off the bed, was to bolt a sacrificial block of hickory to the side of each bed. It extends into the path of the blade and it's trimmed off with the first pass. This gives the dog board more to rest on without risking the damaging effects of metal on metal. Not necessary when cutting ties but I was cutting a lot of thinner stuff at the time.

Good luck, looking forward to seeing some pictures.
If ya ain't got what ya need, use what ya got

beenthere

chopper
Can you post a pic of the sacrificial block of hickory?  Interested to see it.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

chopperdr47

My mill is in pieces right now but I think I can get a picture of the blocks with no problem tomorrow. Did the grading today for the new location an it should start going back together Monday.
If ya ain't got what ya need, use what ya got

Farmer Jim

How do you determine what size or model a Frick mill is?  I have one that is in its own building here.  I have not used it. It needs to have the drive pulley reattached and a power source.  I had considered selling, but keep thinking it might be handy if I got it going.  This thread makes it seem do-able.
"I won't be wronged. I won't be insulted. I won't be laid a-hand on. I don't do these things to other people, and I require the same from them."  J.B.Books

Ron Wenrich

There are a couple of informative videos on Youtube about identifying a Frick model.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kmttxfiUNfk

Here's some things to ID it. 
Carriage wheel size:  00=7", 0=8", 01=8", 1=10"
Bed opening: 00=32", 0=36", 01=40", 1=44", 3="54"

Most popular Fricks were the 00, 0, and 01 models.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

jdw

So I been working on getting the frick set up every one I've talked to said eveything centers around the blade. So I assumed that you would set the husk first but after setting it up and leveling everything seems like it would have been better to set the track first? So does anyone know if I'm going backwards? :-\

sandsawmill14

we always started with the biggest piece and then went from there. set track then dust belt/chain then you were squaring the saw to everything it was smaller and easier to move. but thats just the way we did it :) :)
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

jdw

I hope I can get it togather now the posts my husk are mounted to are in the ground about 4 1/2 feet and concreted.

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