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So now I have built my swinger with all of guys help, how do I dial it in

Started by bullshark, May 01, 2015, 06:05:36 AM

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bullshark

Please excuse my ignorance, as I've never seen a swing blade mill live.
I've grasped the concept without any problems and knocked it together ok, albeit rough as guts in the aesthetics department. I haven't run the blade into timber yet. Just wondering what to look for and what marks mean what in the cut it leaves. Any obvious things will be things I probably don't know about.
I would love to see a set up and operational DVD for a Lucas or Peterson, but the appear to be priced around $15000 and come with a free sawmill. Slightly out of my price range. Any help and criticism welcome.

bullshark

And if any of the anzacs on here would be so kind as to let a computer illiterate chippy know how to add pictures, that would be greatly appreciated too.

fishpharmer

Built my own band mill with the help of Forestry Forum. 
Lucas 618 with 50" slabber
WoodmizerLT-40 Super Hydraulic
Deere 5065E mfwd w/553 loader

The reason a lot of people do not recognize opportunity is because it usually goes around wearing overalls looking like hard work. --Tom A. Edison

bullshark

Thanks very much. I'll see what I can add to give you guys a laugh.

thecfarm

bullshark,welcome to the forum.
First time I saw a swing mill I was amazed by it.I asked that guy some questions.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

terrifictimbersllc

The blade adjustments on my Peterson are performed in this order:

1) horizontal criss-cross, where blade in the horizontal position is tilted from front to back so that marks from both the front and back of the blade are equally made
2) horizontal lean-in, where the blade in horizontal position is tilted just a bit down on the right side, so that there is a very small ridge left behind by the previous cut as the blade is moved to the right across the log surface.
3) vertical criss-cross where the marks made by the front and back of the blade are equal on the vertical cut surface
4) vertical intersect, where the line of the horizontal and vertical cuts are about 1/8" from actually touching

My experience with adjusting these are that 1,2, and 4 are easy.   3 can be confusing in that the vertical criss cross may not align the blade in the vertical position exactly parallel to the line of travel.  In other words the criss cross can look great but the blade is running out just a bit one way or the other.  Aligning the blade so it can be backed into the same kerf it just exited, is what's important.  May just be on my mill but once I figured it out it isn't a problem. 

Good luck to you and be careful about reaching under your machine!

DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

bullshark

Thanks again.
DJ, I understand what you're saying, but number 4 has me confused as to why. Am I to cut timber ever so slightly out of square for some reason or shim the blade out from the arbor?

bullshark


terrifictimbersllc

Quote from: bullshark on May 01, 2015, 08:16:01 AM
Thanks again.
DJ, I understand what you're saying, but number 4 has me confused as to why. Am I to cut timber ever so slightly out of square for some reason or shim the blade out from the arbor?
I guess what is going on is to make sure the vertical cut doesn't score the horizontal face.  This is about the tilt of the vertical cut, I don't understand what it would have to do with moving the blade out from the arbor. Cant imagine this would be picked up with anyone's square.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

bullshark

I thought you meant the vertical adjustment. Better to be sure. The way mine is set up there is only 3 ways to leave that mark on the log and you eliminated one of them in the first steps. All good. And thanks again.


beenthere

Good on the pic... even loaded it three times in your gallery.  ;D

Can see the blue frame and black v-motor and red gas can.  That part looks good. Neat shop you have.
Now when will it meet up with some wood?  ;)

Welcome to the Forestry Forum
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

terrifictimbersllc

Quote from: bullshark on May 01, 2015, 08:57:30 AM
I thought you meant the vertical adjustment. Better to be sure. The way mine is set up there is only 3 ways to leave that mark on the log and you eliminated one of them in the first steps. All good. And thanks again.
The adjustment for #4 is a stop which when adjusted changes the height between the bottom of the blade (in the vertical position), and the horizontal wood beneath.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

Jeff

Quote from: beenthere on May 01, 2015, 09:32:03 AM
Good on the pic... even loaded it three times in your gallery.  ;D

Off topic for a moment: I deleted two.  I bet if the truth is known, and I had the time to go through 20,000 galleries and half a million photos, we have wasted a years worth of server space at least because people don't bother to make sure of it themselves.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

bullshark

Thanks Jeff. I'm still trying to work out how to put the pictures up on here. I may do it again accidentally but I'll be sure to delete them.

bullshark

Thanks been there. I have still have to fabricate a simple holder and heat shield for the fuel tank, a trolley to move the engine trolley to the log and paint the whole thing.
Looking on here my fabrication skills leave a lot to be desired. You guys all do a very professional job and with the right tools and experience are producing mills that are of a standard fit for retail.
I didn't have the tools or the experience when I built mine but I'd like to show some guys thinking about it, that it can be done with minimal gear and knowledge. I'm a little embarrassed about the final products end quality, but I feel it may help some guys with what they're thinking about doing.  I built my mill using carpentry tools and it shows. But it can be done.

Nomad

     Bullshark, if your mill does what you need it to do then it's perfectly fine by anybody's standards.  Don't worry about the small stuff.  Pretty is nice, but pretty doesn't cut lumber.  You built a sawmill, not a piano!
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
WoodMizer LT50HDD51-WR
Lucas DSM23-19

bullshark


Ox

Now who in their right mind would laugh at that.  It looks great!  And it makes lumber!  Well done.
Remember - function first, pretty later.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

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