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What size should I make my log ramps for the mill?

Started by Ox, April 20, 2015, 09:50:44 PM

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Ox

I will have my sawmill project built and completed by the end of the week.  The first thing I need to saw is ramps for loading logs onto the mill.  I have some seasoned (down for about 5 years, bark gone) black locust to throw on.  I was wondering what works for you guys that use wood ramps.  They need to be light enough to move off and out of the way after every loading session but strong enough to do the job.  My largest trees will be around 24" diameter red pine for now.  Thanks!
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Hilltop366

Rolling logs up ramps is not much fun.

If you have the room you may want to think about a log deck and some short removable pieces from the deck to the mill. That way you can stage several logs on the deck at a time with your tractor then roll logs on to the mill as needed, a slight incline towards the mill will make rolling the logs easier too.

Ox

Agreed.  I'll be making a log deck soon as I think it's hard to beat in the long run.  I need some ramps for portable work.  Hmmmmm.  Perhaps a portable log deck that can be lifted onto the mill for transport?  Hmmm..... :P
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

coppolajc10

If you're making ramps out of black locust that's been down for five years, I would make them what ever size they're currently in ... that stuff will eat your blades.

Ox

If they weren't so darn big I would do just that.  They're around 20" diameter.  Just a little too much to be putting on and off every time, ya know? :D
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

47sawdust

I think wood ramps will be slippery when wet and dangerous.Steel tube ramps with small pieces of solid bar stock is what WM uses on their manual portable mills.The square stock is cut into small pieces,spaced about 8'' apart.They work well,most get bent over time by heavy logs.You can minimize that by placing a block under the ramps at mid span.Check out mfg. web sight to see how they do it.
Mick
1997 WM Lt30 1999 WM twin blade edger Kubota L3750 Tajfun winchGood Health Work is my hobby.

kelLOGg

I use 2 x 4 steel 8' long. My mill is 2' high.
bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Jemclimber

Two 4x4's should be plenty for red pine that size, it's what I use. I wish I had more black locust that size.
lt15

Joe Hillmann

I have one ash and one elm ramp.  They are the very first two logs I cut on my mill.  They are about 4x5 and 6 feet long with a taper at one end.  So far the largest log they were used on was a 34" white pine 8 feet long.

They do tend to get slippery when wet which can actually be helpful when one end is going up faster than the other.  You can roll the end that is going to fast back down to even it out and when they are wet it works better.

Hilltop366

When I had my CSM I had wooden 6"X6" ramps made from spruce that held up for years (no big hardwoods were cut though).

One thing I thought would have been handy was a few stops partway up the ramp that would flip down when rolling the log over then flip back up to stop the log from rolling back.

I thought up a design that was a steel rectangle or U shape that went over the ramp and bolted through, it would be off balance (heavier on the bottom) so it returns to the "up" position.

Ox

Yeah, I thought about that too after seeing a Cook's sawmill with steel ramps and swinging log stops on the ramps.  Looks like a bottom heavy dog with a single bolt to swing on.  Log rolls up the ramp and pushes the stop down and when the log gets past the stop just swings back up and you can rest the log back on it.  Simple, effective, awesomely wonderful.  The KISS principle at its finest.  I would love to build out of steel but I'm too short on steel after this second mill build.  Time to start thinking with wood.  For some reason I had 3x5 stuck in my head but weight concerns are bugging me.  With a horrible back and arthritis in my hands and wrists I'm a little concerned.  If a 4x4 will do it, that sounds good to me.  Thanks for the suggestions so far, guys! 
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

tmarch

There won't be much weight difference between a 3X5 and a 4X4 unless I'm missing something. ???
Retired to the ranch, saw, and sell solar pumps.

Joe Hillmann

A 3x5 would actually be lighter than a 4x4.  I am not sure which would be stronger but my guess would be the 3x5 would be stronger if set so it is 3 wide and 5 tall.  The 3x5 would be more likely to want to tip.

Ocklawahaboy

Are you loading with a winch or doing the more dangerous cant hook up the ramp?  Either way, some bumpies to help the log grip are a must.  You could probably use lag bolts into the wood to help.  If the thickness of the head is not enough, just back it out a couple of threads. The problem with not putting bumps on your ramp is that as you try to roll the log up with the winch, the bottom will slip out away from the mill.  You are winding cable up and not getting the log any closer. 

Ox

Yeah, I figured the 3x5 on edge would be stronger and about as heavy as a 4x4.  I'll be using a hand winch.  Nubs for grip make good sense for safety and practicality.  I certainly don't want to be under the log using a hook if something happens.  And it will eventually.  Murphy of Murphy's Law fame is a sonofagun.  Never met him but I feel as though I know him intimately!  :D  Thanks for the suggestions.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

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