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Building my mill...

Started by Kbeitz, April 17, 2015, 07:04:07 PM

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Kbeitz

Today I made my outriggers...
Again everything came from the junkyard.
I found these pipe nipples and I think they was for hydraulics.
1/2" thick side wall.  My legs are 1-1/2" cold roll round.
I still need to come up with 6 feet or shoes.



 



 



 



 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Kbeitz

Ya-Hoo... My blade is on....
One step closer to my first cut....
Lets see....
I need blade guards...
Blade guide...
Water bottle...
Log dogs...
And then I think I'm ready to go...




 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Kbeitz

I see lots of people saying the the blades teeth is not to touch the wheel.
In my picture it looks lke the wheel is touching my teeth.
The crown is so high that the teeth dont look like it's touching.
Do you think this will be a problem ?
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

fishpharmer

If your bandwheels have a high crown the set on the band teeth may not be affected.  Since you already have the band it will be worth a try.  The trailer tire type mills, like the one I built, are more prone to push the set out due to flex of the tire.  If you have everything lined up correctly and your bandwheel guides in the correct position, when you begin milling you will soon find out if the set is affected.  The blade will start to dive in the cut.  The reason that occurs is because the teeth set toward the bandwheels will be on the top side of the band when it enters the log, as those teeth are pushed inward by the bandwheel the lower teeth are cutting more, therefore the dive.

If that happens, you should be able to fix the problem by using a wider band, having the bandwheels turned so the crown is moved toward the leading edge, or by simply adding a rubber or urethane bandwheel "tire."  Grizzly may have the tires for those wheels.

Here is link to a sorely missed forestryforum legend Tom's (RIP) website with best explanation about bandsaw blades.




Keep up the good work!
Built my own band mill with the help of Forestry Forum. 
Lucas 618 with 50" slabber
WoodmizerLT-40 Super Hydraulic
Deere 5065E mfwd w/553 loader

The reason a lot of people do not recognize opportunity is because it usually goes around wearing overalls looking like hard work. --Tom A. Edison

Kbeitz

Quote from: fishpharmer on April 22, 2015, 12:02:21 PM
If your bandwheels have a high crown the set on the band teeth may not be affected.  Since you already have the band it will be worth a try.  The trailer tire type mills, like the one I built, are more prone to push the set out due to flex of the tire.  If you have everything lined up correctly and your bandwheel guides in the correct position, when you begin milling you will soon find out if the set is affected.  The blade will start to dive in the cut.  The reason that occurs is because the teeth set toward the bandwheels will be on the top side of the band when it enters the log, as those teeth are pushed inward by the bandwheel the lower teeth are cutting more, therefore the dive.

If that happens, you should be able to fix the problem by using a wider band, having the bandwheels turned so the crown is moved toward the leading edge, or by simply adding a rubber or urethane bandwheel "tire."  Grizzly may have the tires for those wheels.

Here is link to a sorely missed forestryforum legend Tom's (RIP) website with best explanation about bandsaw blades.




Keep up the good work!
The wheels already have the tires on them.
The saw they came off of only tale 1-1/4" blades. I'm useing 1-1/2"
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Kbeitz

Not a lot done today..
To busy shopping at the junkyard...
I got my feet or shoes cut out and I started on the guides arms for the blade rollers.
I got these two racks (part of rack and pinion) to use for my log dog for adjustment.




 



 



 






Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

fishpharmer

There you go, the tires weren't apparent in other pics.   You could still go to a wider band if necessary, yet it looks as if the tooth set is unaffected. 
Built my own band mill with the help of Forestry Forum. 
Lucas 618 with 50" slabber
WoodmizerLT-40 Super Hydraulic
Deere 5065E mfwd w/553 loader

The reason a lot of people do not recognize opportunity is because it usually goes around wearing overalls looking like hard work. --Tom A. Edison

Kbeitz

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

fishpharmer

Your blade guide looks great.  Adjustability of the blade guides is very important.  Have you had a chance to adjust your blade guides by using a straight edge across the gullet of the bandblade and parallel to the log bed ?

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,64915.msg969163.html#msg969163
Built my own band mill with the help of Forestry Forum. 
Lucas 618 with 50" slabber
WoodmizerLT-40 Super Hydraulic
Deere 5065E mfwd w/553 loader

The reason a lot of people do not recognize opportunity is because it usually goes around wearing overalls looking like hard work. --Tom A. Edison

Kbeitz

Quote from: fishpharmer on April 23, 2015, 09:46:54 AM
Your blade guide looks great.  Adjustability of the blade guides is very important.  Have you had a chance to adjust your blade guides by using a straight edge across the gullet of the bandblade and parallel to the log bed ?

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,64915.msg969163.html#msg969163

From what I have been reading thats not important. Some even say to have the beginning cut of the blade lead into the cut... ??? So what am I missing ??? Help me out...

Or are you saying lay a  straight edge across the blade like I have the black line drawed on the image  and run a tape down to the bed to check for  parallel ?



 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Ga Mtn Man

Quote from: Kbeitz on April 23, 2015, 08:19:25 PM
From what I have been reading thats not important. Some even say to have the beginning cut of the blade lead into the cut... ??? So what am I missing ??? Help me out...
You didn't read that on this forum.  It is very important that your blade be parallel to the saw bed.
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

Kbeitz

Quote from: Ga Mtn Man on April 23, 2015, 08:36:17 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on April 23, 2015, 08:19:25 PM
From what I have been reading thats not important. Some even say to have the beginning cut of the blade lead into the cut... ??? So what am I missing ??? Help me out...
You didn't read that on this forum.  It is very important that your blade be parallel to the saw bed.

maybe I missunderstood what i was reading...
But if the bandsaw wheels is squared off the bed would not that make the blade square with the bed.
I have not checked the blade to the bed. I was thinking it would have to be square if the wheels was...
I will do that first thing in the morn..
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

gww

k
I would say your other thought is easy to come by, that squaring the head was an important item.  I have seen post where no blade guide is used.  I have seen the blade guides that are just close but do not touch the blade.  I could see where it becomes more important that when using a blade guide that pushes down on the blade that even if the other was correct the blade guide could change it.  I know you have seen my build and the problims I have cause you posted on it.  You therefore know I am no expert but just someone who is working through our issues.

Your blade guides and their supports look much more solid then mine and I think that will be helpfull.
Good luck
gww

Magicman

I have no idea how much sawing that you will do, but blade guides wear.  The end toward the blade teeth gets the most wear.  As they wear, they must be adjusted as in tilted downward to keep the blade horizontal with the sawmill bed.  Normal setup also adjusts that end horizontally so that the back flange will pull the blade upward and toward the blade guide if/when the blade is forced back against that flange.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Kbeitz

Quote from: Magicman on April 23, 2015, 09:49:02 PM
I have no idea how much sawing that you will do, but blade guides wear.  The end toward the blade teeth gets the most wear.  As they wear, they must be adjusted as in tilted downward to keep the blade horizontal with the sawmill bed.  Normal setup also adjusts that end horizontally so that the back flange will pull the blade upward and toward the blade guide if/when the blade is forced back against that flange.

Hummm... I have made no adjustment for tilt.... Only up-down and in and out...
I guess I could egg shape my bearing support bolt hole in the back and put two set screws adjust tilt...
Any other ideas ?

Thanks.
Kevin
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Kbeitz

I'm thinking about building an edger attachment that will use the tracks of my saw mill.
Something I can pickup and set in the tracks when I'm not useing the bandsaw.
Has anyone done anything like this ? It would be something that looks a track saw...
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Kbeitz

I cranked it up today to see how the blade would track.
People would be nuts to run a mill with out a guard.
I see videos on utube of people running them with out guards...
No way.... not me...
Everything worked great...
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Ox

Good news!  Glad it worked good for ya!  It looks like you know what you're doing and have built a nice mill.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Kbeitz

Today I'm hoping to make up my log dogs or whatever you call the clamps that hold the log.
I'm using 1-1/4 solid square rack (rack and pinion) to advance the hold down clamp.
I'm sliding a chunk of heavy wall tubing over the rack with a chunk of plate welded over a small part of the tubing that will fall into the tooth of the rack for adjustment. This way I can just lift the handle up and slide it down the rack until it touches the log and twist the cam lock tight. Pictures later. Or I just might make my blade covers today.. One or the other.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

justallan1


Kbeitz

Got my blade cover built today.

Hey.... Did i build my saw mill backwards ?
Every blade I buy or see has the teeth running faceing the points to the right.
I have to turn the blade inside out to work on my mill.
Faceing my mill with my carrage to my right or at the back end of my trailer I'm going to be cutting when the carrage moves left. So If I stand faceing the blade I need the cutting part of my blades teeth to face left.
Am I backwards ?



 



 



 



  

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

gww

Is your drive wheel pulling your blade through the log or pushing.  If it is pulling I have seen advice to others to flip the blade to get it cutting correctly.  I don't see how that would be bad.  I haven't got mine working correctly so keep that in mind on any advice I give.
Good job
gww

Ox

Yes, the way you have your engine mounted, if you're facing the front of the mill and front of the saw, the teeth should be pointing to the left.  And it looks like you can run it from the other side with the up/down winch so you're out of the sawdust.  Looks nice and solid.  The wood blade guard makes sense so the blade doesn't get messed up by hitting steel if it comes off the wheels  -   Well done!
gww - The double tube for the main frame of this saw is a good thing to try to get on your build if you can.  It's what will get rid of most if not all your flexing issues.  The front tube is in compression and the back tube is in tension so it cancels out and stays straight when you tension the blade, see?
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

fishpharmer

Here's a good video showing blade guide roller alignment on a woodmizer.  About 3:00 minutes in is most relevant.  The 1/16" offset of in/out adjustable roller side of blade is for woodmizer cantilever head design only.

http://youtu.be/QDcmW2IgFXg
Built my own band mill with the help of Forestry Forum. 
Lucas 618 with 50" slabber
WoodmizerLT-40 Super Hydraulic
Deere 5065E mfwd w/553 loader

The reason a lot of people do not recognize opportunity is because it usually goes around wearing overalls looking like hard work. --Tom A. Edison

gww

Ox
I saw your post but am tired of typing uselessly, not your fault but my computers.  I did want to get in that k's mill looks nice.
gww

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