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Band resaws

Started by Sawyerfortyish, September 04, 2004, 05:44:53 PM

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Sawyerfortyish

Been looking at Baker and Morgan resaws. Is anyone using one? I have a circle mill and would like to recover boards out of my slabs also I saw a lot of 1x6x16 and I would like to leave a heavy dog board resaw it and get two 1x 6 instead of a thick and thin 2x6. What other kind of resaws are there? I need one with a 12" capacity. I have been looking at Bakers ABX model.

oakiemac

Hi Sawyerfortyish,

Your post is timely. I just sent out for info on Bakers resaws. My thinking is along the same line as yours. I have a circle mill which I can use to cut cants (circle mills excel at this) then use the band resaw to cut grade 1X's, and to recover more boards from the bottom slab. I can't think of a better combination.
Mobile Demension sawmill, Bobcat 873 loader, 3 dry kilns and a long "to do" list.

Bro. Noble

We have a 'Go-Fast' resaw made by Up-Country manufacturing in Wisc.  It's made simple and heavy.  We really like it.  It's a 'low profile' saw as is Morgans,  but it's built heavier than Morgans,  or at least that was the case 6 or 8 years ago when we bought it.  A fellow in our area has a Baker and likes it real well.  I watched him saw and was impressed.  It wasn't the low profile and I don't think Baker made one then,  don't know if they do now.
milking and logging and sawing and milking

Sawyerfortyish

Noble is the circle of the band on yours above or below the table? Is that what you mean by low profile? Does the table on yours move to adjust for thickness or does the band saw head move up or down? Does Go Fast have a website? I'de like to have a look at there setup.

Bibbyman

Wood-Mizer has been making resaws for years.  I've not any experience with them.

Have you considered getting a cant resaw system and using your circle mill for just canting out the log? ?  I'd suspect a cant resaw would improve production, yield and quality.

Link to ===> Wood-Mizer resaw
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Bro. Noble

Try Gofast.com,

I've got their ad from American Lumber and Pallet magazine,  but it doesn't list a website although I'm almost positive they have one.  Their phone is 1-800-854-7439,  e-mail is bradbricko61@hotmail.com.  They sent me a free video when I was looking.

Yes,  the loop is below, that's what I mean by low profile.  I like it cause you are able to see whats going on around you.

I can't remember what moves when you adjust the thickness of cut.  I very rarely cut anything but pallet boards.  To adjust it you just turn a crank------couldn't be EZier.
milking and logging and sawing and milking

Buzz-sawyer

Hi Noble
I want one to resaw grade lumber behind my 56 inch wheel..do you have a  return also on yours? Is it pretty quick...?
    HEAR THAT BLADE SING!

Bro. Noble

We don't have a return on ours,  but Go-fast makes one.

I did a search on resaws and there are a bunch of companies listed (I didn't see Go-fast) including dealers that sell used one.

I would sure check to see what size of shafts the different companies mount their pullys on.

All else being equal,  I'd lean toward our sponsers products. :)

As for speed,  As I said we do almost entirely pallet stuff.  I feed blocks in (end to end)  and my son takes the stuff off and returns blocks to me.  The machine has a variable speed and will cut faster than we can handle it.  The only time we have to wait on it is cutting wide hickory pallet boards when the band needs to be changed :D
milking and logging and sawing and milking

bull

I Have a Baker PAQ w/ 20 HP honda, What a great machine
Very few problems,if any.... What a life saver,Machine paid for itself in less than 6 months... Bought new in 2000 for $10,000... I use WM blades and can resaw allday....

Buzz-sawyer

Bull
I am wondering , what application are you using the resaw in...., what kind of headsaw, ....are you cutting pallet stock.....I have never seen the profit vs labor in this :P ??? ???
    HEAR THAT BLADE SING!

bull

Yes we cut pallet stock and shorts w/ the resaw.

My mill is a WM Super 40 HD 36 w/ Accuset,and board drag back.
Had a 6 year run With plastic's company where we supplied
3/8x4"X36" and 3/8X4"X40 "  @ .25 each all soft wood
orders of 500 to 2000 pieces per week.  That ended when I was unable to fill the demand ---- Pulp market came back and the supply of low grade went away....

also supply a pallet recycler with randon stock.....

Custom: resawing of beam stock and antique wood for a couple of cabinet makers in the area as well

Cedarman

We have used a WM 2 head since 1992.  It is a tremendous machine. Properly maintained it should last for many decades. We have changed main bearings several times and wore out one spindle. The track and teflon strips underneath are like new. Running slabs can be a little tricky. Make sure knots do not stick way out on the right infeed side.  Ours has about 16,000 hours on it.
I have watched for used ones.  They come up once in a great while. They hold there value very well, meaning that you have to have an eagle eye and be as fast to grab the bargain.
Looked at a used one for cheap money a few years ago in Tenn. It looked like it had been soaked in salt water for several years and had half a dozen forklifts get too close. It was the perfect example of how not to maintain a good machine.Priced cheap is was still priced 3 times too high.

Have had experience with a Brewco.  Takes more effort to keep running true than a WM, but no maintainance problems either.
Our material is almost always 8 feet long or longer and saves tons of time on small logs.
I am in the pink when sawing cedar.

Gilman

You have any photos of you setup Cedarman?  
WM LT70, WM 40 Super, WM  '89 40HD
Cat throwing champion 1996, 1997, 1999. (retired)

Cedarman

I can get the photos. Since I am too old to get the photos from the digital camera to this forum myself, I am going to have to wait until I get professional help. My son gets home from school later today.
I am in the pink when sawing cedar.

Fla._Deadheader

 Cedarman, C'mon. Yer never too old to learn sumpin. Look at ME.  ::) ::) ;D :D :D
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Sawyerfortyish

What should I be looking for if I go look at a used resaw ?Cedarman said something about the main bearings and spindle.

Cedarman

I would look at the overall condition of the machine.  Has it been banged into? Are there dents?  Check the belt or track. Is it straight.  Wiggle all shafts if possible. I would want to see it run if at all possible. Do the blades stay on track? Bearings make any noise?  Does the pressure stay up for blade tension?  All the safety features in place and working?Hold down wheels in place and working properly? If the belt is worn on one side, it will have to be replaced. Not too expensive. If it is at auction, I would want to talk to the person who ran the machine. Operators tend to be truthful, owners have an agenda, but usually tell it like it is.
This is my approach.
I am in the pink when sawing cedar.

Cedarman


Infeed and outfeed of our Woodmizer 2 head resaw.

Got the outfeed on top and infeed on bottom picture. We edge good flitches, place slab on belt to hog for mulch, and send low grade flitches to stack for drying and later processing into parts.
I am in the pink when sawing cedar.

Gilman

Thanks for the photos Cedarman
WM LT70, WM 40 Super, WM  '89 40HD
Cat throwing champion 1996, 1997, 1999. (retired)

Sawyerfortyish

Cedarman does the head of your saw move up and down or the table? I was told that it's hard to set up a saw where the table moves up and down because you have to keep adjusting any rollers to the table hight.

Bro. Noble

Sawyer,
 
I looked on our Go-fast and the table moves up and down.  It's not a problem.  When I change it,  it takes only a few seconds.  Stays right were I set it till I saw a different thickness-----usually months.
milking and logging and sawing and milking

Cedarman

The WM has a steel track that does not move. The two saw heads move independently up or down with a ratchet.  When changing thickness, which we do not do that often, takes a couple of minutes to get it exact.  We first adjust to where we think it should be according to the guage. We run a slab and check its thickness. We adjust and run again. It might take 2 or 3 adjustments, but we want it to within a few hundreths of the proper thickness because we will be running thousands of pieces.
I am in the pink when sawing cedar.

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