Gooseneck log grapple trailer plans/build

Justify008 · April 07, 2015, 04:57:03 AM

Well before I start the skidder rebuild project I figured I should finish the last project I started and I figured you guys might want to be part of it I could use some advice before I start putting steel together. My plan is I have a John deere 3807 picker

I want to mount on my big tex 32' gooseneck.

The original plan was to mount the picker flush on the trailer deck but thats not going to work because the trailer has a torque tube running up the center that would interfere with the lower valve body and I don't want to cut that torque tube so that was out. So my choices were mount it on the neck or build an elevated platform to mount it on. Im not to fond of mounting it on the neck it seems like a lot of twisting weight so I think I'm going with an elevated platform on the front of the deck. After taking a trip to one of my favorite places the local steel shop scrap room this is what I came up with. A 10"x8"x1/2" thick square tube to go across the trailer frame rails. Then a 8"x8"x3/8" for uprights and 6"x6"x1/2" for the frame rails going forward that the picker will sit on. and lots of 1/4" plate for gussets. Heres a rough sketch the black is the trailer frame and the red is the elevated frame I'm adding

and in the real world looks kinda like this only the 6x6 will stick about a foot past the 10x8 to clear the bottom valve bank

So what do you guys think. Do you think the elevated frame will hold up to the stress.

lopet · April 07, 2015, 08:15:03 PM

You did not mention if you use outriggers or not. It looks like the bed gets in the way anyways. Cranking down your trailer jacks every time would be a pain also, but you need something.

logman81 · April 07, 2015, 09:49:34 PM

I agree with lo pet stabilizers are a must. These deere loaders are heavy and will need to make sure the trailer is stable and the mounts super strong!

Ljohnsaw · April 07, 2015, 11:05:55 PM

Would it be best if the stabilizers were part of the new frame platform? That way the forces would go directly to ground and not through the trailer frame (as much), minimizing bending and twisting. Well, my 2 cents anyway...

ahlkey · April 07, 2015, 11:58:37 PM

I had mounted two GN trailers with loaders before finally getting it right. For what it is worth I would not mount on an elevated platform and the positioning of stabilizers are critical. The length of your trailer, the dovetail, and where the axles are postioned to name just a few may give you additional concerns. Converting a trailer designed for one purpose to hauling logs may not be a good option. You may want to consider selling that trailer and getting one more suited for your logs.

[img]

PaYoungBuck · April 08, 2015, 07:37:09 PM

^^^ What brand is this log trailer??

Loesshillslogging · April 09, 2015, 10:37:58 AM

This is great stuff! Keep this topic going guys! Looking forward to your input and the photo's are great! Thanks!

Glenn1 · April 09, 2015, 03:35:36 PM

X2

Loesshillslogging · April 10, 2015, 12:47:47 PM

Quote from: ahlkey on April 07, 2015, 11:58:37 PM
I had mounted two GN trailers with loaders before finally getting it right. For what it is worth I would not mount on an elevated platform and the positioning of stabilizers are critical. The length of your trailer, the dovetail, and where the axles are postioned to name just a few may give you additional concerns. Converting a trailer designed for one purpose to hauling logs may not be a good option. You may want to consider selling that trailer and getting one more suited for your logs.

[img]

So, it looks like GN trailers is the manufacturer in the photo? Is that Great Northern?

Dave Shepard · April 10, 2015, 12:50:41 PM

GN= goose neck. Looks like the trailer is a Big Tex. I don't see a name on the dedicated log trailer.

brendonv · April 10, 2015, 02:04:48 PM

Its custom. He had the trailer built and mounted the metavic loader.

Loesshillslogging · April 10, 2015, 04:10:56 PM

Got it, nice set-up! Thanks!

Justify008 · April 10, 2015, 09:39:50 PM

I knew I'd forget to mention something for stabilizers I plan to eventually build a slide out "A" frame style directly under the picker. But for now I plane to mount the flop out stabilizers on the tongue where the crank down jacks are now and I'll move the crank down jacks inside the tongue if that makes sense. The trailer is a strong trailer and I like to be able to load equipment on the back when I'm not hauling logs. The grapple will fold up over the tongue leaving the back open for equipment. I'd like to be able to go buy a new grapple or a new trailer but funds dont allow that currently so I have to make do with what I have.

lopet · April 10, 2015, 10:16:04 PM

I think, I know what you mean. Just don't underestimate the time and money you put in. 500 bucks don't buy much steel anymore. Good luck and take some pictures as you move along.

Justify008 · April 11, 2015, 12:08:58 AM

Quote from: lopet on April 10, 2015, 10:16:04 PM
I think, I know what you mean. Just don't underestimate the time and money you put in. 500 bucks don't buy much steel anymore. Good luck and take some pictures as you move along.

Ya I would like to have a shiny new loader to put on the trailer like a valby but at 19k thats a bit steep for my current budget. 500 doesnt go far at the steel yard unless your buying scrap/cutoffs but they usually max out around 4 foot or so. Im not looking forward to buying the rest of the steel for the bunks. I have 4 bunks that I use to mount on my dump trailer that im going to repurpose and add more later. There will be around 28' behind the loader counting the beaver tail when shes mounted how many bunks would you guys put on? Im thinking 7 max 2' in on each end then 4 feet in between?

Justify008 · April 11, 2015, 05:31:17 PM

I think I also forgot to mention I plan on installing a pto pump and wetline on my truck to run the picker and my dump trailer. If I could ever get the hydraulics guy to call me back.

lopet · April 11, 2015, 07:44:11 PM

If your stakes are only two feet, four foot spacing seems almost a overkill to me. Others may have different ideas, but if you wanna be legal with all this stuff, i am sure they're regulations out there and somebody more knowledgeable will chime in.

Ljohnsaw · April 11, 2015, 08:02:15 PM

Quote from: lopet on April 11, 2015, 07:44:11 PM
If your stakes are only two feet, four foot spacing seems almost a overkill to me. Others may have different ideas, but if you wanna be legal with all this stuff, i am sure they're regulations out there and somebody more knowledgeable will chime in.

I don't think that is what he meant. He was saying that the stakes would be every 4 feet but starting 2 feet from the end, so seven down each side. He didn't state how tall they would be.

Justify008 · April 11, 2015, 10:01:33 PM

Quote from: ljohnsaw on April 11, 2015, 08:02:15 PM
Quote from: lopet on April 11, 2015, 07:44:11 PM
If your stakes are only two feet, four foot spacing seems almost a overkill to me. Others may have different ideas, but if you wanna be legal with all this stuff, i am sure they're regulations out there and somebody more knowledgeable will chime in.

I don't think that is what he meant. He was saying that the stakes would be every 4 feet but starting 2 feet from the end, so seven down each side. He didn't state how tall they would be.

That's correct 2 foot in from each end and then 4 foot spacing between the middle ones. And they'll be 4 foot high. I'll put them in the stake pockets and then put a pin or bolt in to hold them on the trailer when empty.

Justify008 · May 17, 2015, 08:52:51 PM

Well plans have changed after a visit to a friends logging job I realized if I mount the picker on the trailer I have I'll only be able to pick up from landings in fields and by roads. I'll never get a 32' trailer with a beaver tail up in a moutain road logging trail. So after some deliberation I decided my new plan is to build a shorter goose neck trailer solely for the purpose of a logging trailer, like was recommended to me in the beginning. So now the question is do I leave the grapple a rear mounted picker or make it a front mount like I planned originally?

Maine372 · May 18, 2015, 08:41:26 PM

rear mount reaches more without the truck in the way. but you have to run all your plumbing to the back. could make the trailer light on the tongue when running empty.

front mount keeps the weight on the hitch when empty, and lets you haul long lengths hanging over the rear. still lets equipment be loaded from the end. but you can only pick wood up if you can pull in beside the pile.

Justify008 · May 28, 2015, 06:05:35 PM

I think I'm going with a rear mount that's the way the picker was designed it will be the easiest way to install it. I'm thinking 25ft of frame rail will leave me room for the grapple and the pony motor and hydraulic tank all on the back. I was a little bit worried about light tongue weight when running empty but im going to make the rear axle a spring axle and put it as far back as possible and then do 1 or 2 lift axles in front of it. Im working on the autocad drawing now ill post pics when I get it done.

brendonv · May 28, 2015, 06:48:20 PM

Put the tank up front and the power pack. Thats alot of rear weight. Mine tows nice down highway, but i planned on adding more to the head ache rack and decking anyways to give me more weight just for some more. Axles at about 65% of the deck area.

Please post pics. Im currently buildng another myself.

Justify008 · May 28, 2015, 08:12:33 PM

I was thinking about doing that to mount the tank and motor/pump on the tongue I have to run all the numbers and see what my weights will be. I'd rather be a little light on the tongue empty then be to heavy on the tongue loaded.

shamusturbo · May 28, 2015, 10:57:16 PM

You have to be careful because if you lose too much tongue weight, it picks up on the drive wheels and your truck starts to sway. Also, your braking ability is horrible when it is unbalanced, loaded or not. I've had it happen a time or two and it is not fun...